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I am nearly finished with my grand plan. I built a flagstone patio and a pergola, today my hop rhizomes came in. Plan is to grow the hops up and over the pergola. Any tips on doing this, or any reason not to?
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Apr 14, 2013 03:11
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Docjowles posted:Now that I own my home ( I was actually planning on growing the roots in containers, is this a bad idea?
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Apr 14, 2013 04:35
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) I'm planning to grow some hops, probably next year. One tip I came across is planting them in those cut-in-half wine barrels you sometimes see at garden/hardware stores (or just a really really huge pot). I've heard that hop roots are a bitch to pull up and kill if you ever want to get rid of or move them. The roots spread out super far and if you leave even the tiniest part behind it'll grow back into a full plant the next year. Of course if that's not a concern for you, just stick 'em in the ground.
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I kegged an amber I made for an upcoming fishing/camping outing this weekend and got my first taste of it cold and clear. It was....so great. I think it is the first beer in the 18 I have done that I really, really nailed. Pretty good feeling.  Plus it the first recipe that I constructed by myself (with some help here!) so that adds to the smug.
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Apr 22, 2013 14:59
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My girlfriend can't have more than a few sips of beer or wine without starting to wheeze. For some reason when we were in Belgium she was able to drink Jupiler, but never anything else. We've been mystified by this for years. asked everywhere on the internet about it etc. Sucks because she really loves the sold off beer she gets from me. 
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May 1, 2013 18:54
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I get to do my Zombie Dust clone today. I've had the citra hops in my freezer for 4 months.
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May 10, 2013 14:17
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LeeMajors posted:Anyone here use rectangular coolers for mashing? Anything in particular I should look out for or brands I should avoid for cheapness? Or should I just spend the extra bit of cash and get the round water cooler? I use a 48qt Coleman that I got on sale for $19. It didn't have a spigot so I drilled a hole through the side and then sealed it with silicon sealant. I built a manifold out of copper pipe that works really well. Usually my conversion % is 97-99, although today it was only 87 for some reason. I watched its temp today, my mash temp was 154, after an hour without any further insulation it was 153. I took the temp of the grain just before I dumped it and it was 150, about 2 hours after draining the wort.
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May 10, 2013 21:57
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Cheap functioning chest freezers are next to impossible to find if you are in a part of the country where there is a lot of deer hunting. I got an upright fridge for $80 delivered, plus whatever for the temp control. it can hold three 6 gallon buckets plus a ton of bottles.
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May 22, 2013 20:20
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I did my first lager (this German pilsner recipe) a few weeks ago. Brewing was kind of a pain as the decoction and cooling made it take a lot longer, but the fermentation was really simple. I think I did 10 days at 50, then a diacetyl rest for 2 days, then lowered the temp to 33 for two weeks. Kegged, used gelatin for fining, and it was ready to go. Turned out pretty awesome, it is as clear as Bitburger or Urquell and it had a great pilsner flavor. I'm no expert so if I could handle this I assume anyone can. I will say that I think the gelatin was a huge help, highly recommend doing that. fullroundaction posted:Also Bud claims they age their beer on wood for a couple weeks prior to bottling. While I'm sure that they do, LOL. "Beechwood aged" has been a tagline of theirs for decades. I really enjoy the macrobrews' marketing, it is some seriously impressive business. "Triple hops brewed", "brewed longer so it finishes clean", etc. bewbies fucked around with this message at 15:21 on May 30, 2013 |
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May 30, 2013 15:16
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I think I did a keg setup from scratch for about as cheaply and easily as it can be done. I'm sure this isn't the only solution but it worked for me. Fridge: Danby DAR440BL off Craigslist: ~$50 (PRIZE FIND) Two corny kegs off ebay: ~$90 (ANOTHER GOOD FIND) 5 lbs CO2 tank: $50 Cheap 2-dial regulator: $45 Manifold, tubes, couplings: ~$20 2 Tap Tower: $120 So, around $375 altogether. The fridge and the cheap kegs really dropped the price for me, that's where I think you can find the big savings. Assembly was really easy. Cleaned up the fridge, took off a plastic panel on the top, took off the plastic and the rubber seal on the inside of the door, reinstalled the seal, drilled a ~"1.5 hole through the top (watch out for coolant lines and electrics, etc), screw in the tower. Took maybe an hour at the most. It has been working perfectly for 9 months now.
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May 30, 2013 18:15
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Going to try a cream ale this weekend, any inputs on this recipe? Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: Cream Ale Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 4.5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 5.5 gallons Efficiency: 65% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.052 Final Gravity: 1.012 ABV (standard): 5.34% IBU (tinseth): 17.66 SRM (morey): 3.74 FERMENTABLES: 9 lb - American - Pale 6-Row (87.8%) 1 lb - Flaked Corn (9.8%) 4 oz - American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (2.4%) HOPS: 1 oz - Saaz for 60 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil (AA 3.5, IBU: 15.75) 0.5 oz - Saaz for 5 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil (AA 3.5, IBU: 1.57) 0.5 oz - Saaz for 1 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil (AA 3.5, IBU: 0.34) MASH STEPS: 1) Infusion, Temp: 150 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 15.5 qt, Water Temp: 164 2) Sparge, Temp: 170 F, Amount: 12.5 qt, Water Temp: 198 OTHER INGREDIENTS: 1 each - Whirlfloc, Time: 15 min, Type: Fining, Use: Boil YEAST: White Labs - Cream Ale Yeast Blend WLP080 NOTES: 2L starter Ferment @ 65 Secondary at add gelatine
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May 31, 2013 16:26
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One of the brewers here did an IPA based off of what he thought was a pretty close approximation of the stuff the BEIC shipped back in the 19th century. High sulfate water, 7.5%, aged for 4 months in cask at a high temp and high humidity (85/85 maybe?) to mimic being onboard a sailing ship going around Africa, served at well above cellar temp. I thought it was superb but it was absolutely nothing like modern American IPAs. The thing it sort of reminded me of was an old ale. bewbies fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Jun 3, 2013 |
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Jun 3, 2013 03:42
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Midorka posted:I'm not too worried about FG/OG, I'm more worried about getting an accurate ABV calculation since I'm pretty sure my hydrometer is poo poo. I really don't trust it. Every batch of mine finishes under 1.010, even a pale ale I mashed at 153 and fermented with American Ale. I have had a similar experience. My calculated attenuation has never been below 85%, regardless of yeast or OG. Which hydrometer are you using? I'm using this one I think.
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Jun 6, 2013 15:11
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Docjowles posted:Have you tested the hydrometer? It should read 1.000 in distilled water at whatever temperature it's calibrated for (should say right on it, usually 60F). I have, mine was pretty close (I think it is at 60F).
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Jun 6, 2013 15:24
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Toebone posted:How long can I dry hop a refrigerated keg before I have to worry about those dreaded "grassy" flavors? My last IPA I just left the bag in there until the keg ran out, 3 months in it still tasted great.
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Jun 6, 2013 22:06
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EnsignVix posted:Couple questions on this if you don't mind. That's what I used. quote:2) Is it alright to just leave the keg in the kegerator after dropping the hops in? That's exactly what I did, just threw the bag in right before I sealed it up and carbonated it.
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Jun 9, 2013 00:37
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:4) Siphon wort into fermenter through a sanitized paint strainer bag. I do all of the other stuff you listed but I've never done this. Does it affect the flavor/color of the beer at all?
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Jun 10, 2013 15:01
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I did a cream ale this weekend. According to brewersfriend, my conversion efficiency was 109%. Here's the grain bill: 9 lb American - Pale 6-Row 1 lb Flaked Corn 4 oz American - Carapils Mashed w/ a total of 28 qts of water (single infusion and sparge), mash was 1.5qt/lb, resulting gravity was 1.052. How did this come out to over 100%? Did the lady at the brew shop put in too much grain?
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Jun 11, 2013 13:59
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Jo3sh posted:This is not the first time I have seen this sort of thing. I don't know what recipe calculator the other guy was using, but if it was brewersfriend, I have to speculate that BF means something else by that number. 109% of projected extract, maybe, based on an efficiency of 70%? That lines up pretty close with a target gravity of 1.050 and a measured OG of 1.052. They define it as "Conversion Efficiency: The percentage of total available sugars that were extracted from the grains inside the mash tun". I use what they call "option B" for calculating: Measurement Option B - blend of runnings: ◦Gravity - sample taken before the boil, blend of all runnings. ◦Volume - how much water went into the MLT, counting strike and sparge water. ◦Note: With Option B, the wort sample must be fully blended from all the runnings to be accurate. First runnings have a higher gravity than second runnings. ◦Works for batch sparge. Works for BIAB and partial mash (MLT and kettle are the same). Does NOT make sense for fly sparge. I batch sparge and usually calculate efficiency for 65%, my usual brewhouse efficiency is between 60 and 70%. Usually my conversion efficiency is between 95 and 100, which is another reason why this was weird.
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Jun 11, 2013 16:59
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The program asks you to take gravity readings a couple of times (both pre-boil and post-boil). The "conversion efficiency" is taken right after you've drained all the sparge water but before you've started the boil. I was under the impression that it was just a measure of the amount of sugar you got into the pot/total amount of sugar in all the grains you mashed, which would imply it could never be higher than 100%. Also, while I'm thinking about it, I had to add about a half gallon of water to that beer to hit my OG. How much will that dilute my IBU/hops level? It is a cream ale so bitterness/hops aren't that important, but did I turn it into Bud Light? Should I throw in some dry hops or something to compensate, or just not worry about it?
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Jun 11, 2013 17:28
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global tetrahedron posted:Trying to make a really dank, bitter, sharp IPA/verging on DIPA. Thoughts on this, specifically the hop schedule? Should I cut out the caramel? Mainly added for a bit of color. This looks like it might be a good beer to do first wort hopping in, I've really enjoyed that in a couple of similar IPAs that I've done recently. Makes the bitterness/hop flavor quite a bit smoother which might go well with a "dank" vibe.
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Jun 12, 2013 19:59
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internet celebrity posted:For whatever it's worth, when I bought a new hydrometer my beers suddenly became a lot more fermentable. It's calibrated at the same temperature and measures water correctly but I'm thinking that maybe the scale is a bit off or something. It's this one: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/beer-and-wine-triple-scale-hydrometer.html I use that one too and I have the same issue (FG is always way lower than predicted).
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Jun 18, 2013 16:29
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Going for something like PtE here, any thoughts? I know Pliny is relatively clear, should I look at doing gelatin in addition to whirlfloc? Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: American IPA Boil Time: 90 min Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 7.5 gallons Boil Gravity: 1.054 Efficiency: 60% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.073 Final Gravity: 1.017 ABV (standard): 7.38% IBU (tinseth): 93.18 SRM (morey): 7.54 FERMENTABLES: 15 lb - American - Pale 2-Row (87%) 0.75 lb - American - Caramel / Crystal 40L (4.3%) 0.5 lb - American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (2.9%) 1 lb - Corn Sugar - Dextrose (5.8%) HOPS: 2 oz - Columbus, Type: Pellet, AA: 15, Use: First Wort, IBU: 60.62 1 oz - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.7, Use: Boil for 30 min, IBU: 32.57 1 oz - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 10, Use: Boil for 0 min 1 oz - Amarillo, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.6, Use: Boil for 0 min 0.5 oz - Columbus, Type: Pellet, AA: 15, Use: Dry Hop for 14 days 0.5 oz - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 10, Use: Dry Hop for 14 days 0.5 oz - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.7, Use: Dry Hop for 14 days 0.5 oz - Columbus, Type: Pellet, AA: 15, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days 0.5 oz - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 10, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days 0.5 oz - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.7, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Infusion, Temp: 152 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 25 qt, Water Temp: 166 2) Sparge, Temp: 170 F, Time: 15 min, Amount: 13 qt, Water Temp: 190 Starting Mash Thickness: 1.5 qt/lb OTHER INGREDIENTS: 1 each - whirlfloc, Time: 10 min, Type: Fining, Use: Boil YEAST: White Labs - California Ale Yeast WLP001 Starter: Yes NOTES: 2 L starter Primary 7-10 days @ 66 Two dry hops in secondary, 14 days with .5 oz each: Columbus, Centennial, Simcoe. 7 days with .5 oz each: Columbus, Centennial, Simcoe
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Apr 14, 2014 17:14
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crazyfish posted:Pliny homebrew clone recipe, provided by Vinny himself: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/6351/doubleIPA.pdf Well that's handy. Replace amarillo with an oz of simcoe, add a step to drop temp to 60 degrees in secondary, cold crash with 2 days to go? It looks like the attenuation in that recipe is pretty high? Higher than the calculator I'm using thinks it will be, at least.
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Apr 14, 2014 17:33
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I made this cream ale recipe last year and it was...not great. Didn't really clear up well, taste was off for reasons I can't remember. I'd like to do another cream ale, does anyone have a better recipe or some advice on how to make it better? Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: Cream Ale Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 4.5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 5.5 gallons Efficiency: 65% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.052 Final Gravity: 1.012 ABV (standard): 5.34% IBU (tinseth): 17.66 SRM (morey): 3.74 FERMENTABLES: 9 lb - American - Pale 6-Row (87.8%) 1 lb - Flaked Corn (9.8%) 4 oz - American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (2.4%) HOPS: 1 oz - Saaz, Type: Pellet, AA: 3.5, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 15.75 0.5 oz - Saaz, Type: Pellet, AA: 3.5, Use: Boil for 5 min, IBU: 1.57 0.5 oz - Saaz, Type: Pellet, AA: 3.5, Use: Boil for 1 min, IBU: 0.34 MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Infusion, Temp: 150 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 15.5 qt, Water Temp: 164 2) Sparge, Temp: 170 F, Amount: 12.5 qt, Water Temp: 198 OTHER INGREDIENTS: 1 each - Whirlfloc, Time: 15 min, Type: Fining, Use: Boil YEAST: White Labs - Cream Ale Yeast Blend WLP080 Starter: 2L Ferment @ 65 Secondary at add gelatine
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Apr 22, 2014 01:06
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Jo3sh posted:I would skip the 6-row and go with good lager malt. I did 44% Pilsner malt, 44% American 2-row ale malt, and 11% flaked rice (you could easily use corn, though). I mashed at 150 to keep it crisp. I used Cascade because it was what I had on hand, but any noble hop would work well, too. OG was 1.052, FG 1.009. I also used WLP080. Thanks! Did you do any additional steps for clarity? Lager, if so for how long? Gelatine or anything?
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Apr 22, 2014 15:37
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The APA I did with S-04 on Sunday appeared last night to be done fermenting. I didn't take a gravity but the krausen was gone and it smelled like it was finished. The ESB I'd done with S-04 2 weeks before was also done in about 3 days. Is S-04 like some kind of terrifying nazi superman yeast or might there be something nefarious going on?
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Apr 23, 2014 15:15
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ChickenArise posted:S-04 and S-05 can go pretty fast. I took my fermentation temps down and they take a bit longer now. The APA I did at 62...should I go lower? Is there anything wrong with fermenting really quickly?
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Apr 23, 2014 16:13
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Brewed an APA last Sunday. Yeast was S-04, and it was done fermenting (at 62) in about 48 hours. On Thursday, I went ahead and moved to secondary and threw in dry hops. On Sunday, I cranked down the temp for cold crash. My plan is to leave it at 33 until next weekend, then keg. Questions: 1. Should I have left it in primary for longer than 4 days? 2. When in secondary, how long should I leave it at fermentation temp versus cold conditioning temp? Does this change with dry hopping or anything? 3. How long should I wait with this style before tapping?
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Apr 28, 2014 15:10
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To that end, I'm doing a cream ale w/ 50% pilsner this weekend; is a 90 minute boil still recommended/necessary with pilsner?
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Apr 30, 2014 20:14
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Jo3sh posted:I toot this horn pretty regularly, it seems like, but my Best Bitter is freaking awesome, IMO: How does the 1275 yeast differ from S-04 or 1968? edit - also what is the WL equivalent?
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May 8, 2014 14:10
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I think I'd like to make a marzen this weekend. I got this recipe from somewhere, thoughts, changes? Title: Oktoberfest Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: Oktoberfest/Märzen Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 6.5 gallons Boil Gravity: 1.041 Efficiency: 60% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.053 Final Gravity: 1.015 ABV (standard): 5.03% IBU (tinseth): 21.71 SRM (morey): 9.3 FERMENTABLES: 12 lb - German - Munich Light (100%) HOPS: 1.5 oz - Hallertau Hersbrucker, Type: Pellet, AA: 4, Use: Boil for 40 min, IBU: 21.71 MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Infusion, Temp: 154 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 18 qt, Water Temp: 169 2) Sparge, Temp: 170 F, Amount: 13 qt, Water Temp: 190 YEAST: Fermentis / Safale - Saflager - German Lager Yeast S-23 NOTES: 7 L starter Pitch at 50. Diacetyl rest @ 68 Rack to secondary, lower temp gradually until 33-35. Lager forever at 33-35. Second question: a 7L starter will take a whole pound of DME which is like $7 at my LBS, is there a cheaper alternative to this?
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May 16, 2014 14:35
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Jo3sh posted:Yes. First, I'd suggest skipping S-23 in favor of 34/70 if you can get it reasonably. Second, skip the starter and just use two sachets of yeast. That's plenty of yeast, even for a cold-pitch lager. I think I can get WLP820 or 830, which of those would you recommend?
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May 16, 2014 15:18
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Josh Wow posted:You got some good advice on this but I'm gonna throw in my two cents. Definitely stay away from S-23, 34/70 is the bomb if you can get it. Looks like you can't and I've never used WLP820 but WLP830 German Lager yeast is great. You need to make a bigass starter and oxygenate as best you can. 1.5-2L starter with a stirplate or even bigger if you don't have a stir plate. Make the starter enough in advance that you give yourself 24-48 hours to cold crash it in the fridge so you can decant all the liquid and just pitch the yeast slurry. For oxygenation 45-60 seconds with pure O2 if you have a setup, if not do the best you can pouring it between two buckets or whatever. For the WLP830 you'll wanna pitch at 48*F and ferment at 50-52* for the bulk of the fermentation, letting it ramp up near the end. Thanks for the input! Altered it to this: Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: Oktoberfest/Märzen Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 6.8 gallons Boil Gravity: 1.046 Efficiency: 60% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.062 Final Gravity: 1.017 ABV (standard): 5.87% IBU (tinseth): 23.64 SRM (morey): 8.58 FERMENTABLES: 10 lb - German - Vienna (71.4%) 4 lb - German - Munich Light (28.6%) HOPS: 1 oz - Hallertau Hersbrucker, Type: Pellet, AA: 4, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 15.8 1 oz - Hallertau Hersbrucker, Type: Pellet, AA: 4, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 7.84 1 oz - Hallertau Hersbrucker, Type: Pellet, AA: 4, Use: Boil for 0 min MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Infusion, Temp: 152 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 18 qt, Water Temp: 168 2) Infusion, Temp: 170 F, Amount: 12 qt, Water Temp: 200 3) Sparge, Temp: 170 F, Amount: 6 qt Starting Mash Thickness: 1.25 qt/lb OTHER INGREDIENTS: 1 each - whirlfloc, Time: 10 min, Type: Fining, Use: Boil YEAST: Fermentis / Safale - Saflager - German Lager Yeast W-34/70 Pitch at 48, primary at 50-52. Diacetyl rest @ 68 Rack to secondary, lower temp gradually until 33-35. Lager forever at 33-35. I'm also pondering the chilling process. Things are already pretty warm where I am; our tap water is about 75 degrees already. I have an immersion chiller with prechiller that works fairly well in colder weather, but it just can't get things much below 80 degrees this time of year. What I'm thinking is this: - flame out, chill to ~80 with immersion chiller - draw off a couple of quarts, set aside for use as starter - transfer wort to sanitized bucket, put in fridge at fermentation temp, seal - bring drawn off worts inside, chill to fermentation temp, pitch yeast - after 48 hours or so, pitch yeast starter Any thoughts on this plan?
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May 19, 2014 15:32
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So I may have just set the record for most stupid. I have a cream ale that is done with secondary and ready to be kegged, and a marzen that I finished brewing Thursday. I was waiting a couple of days for the marzen to cool down and for a starter to get going, so this morning (hung over) I head out to pitch the starter into the marzen and keg the cream. Aaaaaaand then I proceed to dump the marzen starter into the cream ale. So, I'm just going to go get another thing of yeast for the marzen so it is fine; what about the cream ale? What should my plan be here? Leave it for a few days and then keg as usual? Throw it away? Light it on fire?
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May 31, 2014 17:56
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So here's another dumb question. I've got a marzen lagering in my fridge at ~35 degrees. I'm planning on doing an ale this weekend. Obviously I can't ferment the ale at lagering temps; will it do anything awful to the marzen to be at ~60 degrees for 4-5 days while the ale does its thing? I'll be using S-04 yeast in the ale so it should chew through pretty quickly.
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Jun 9, 2014 22:44
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So I started brewing about 2 years ago. My 4th brew was a fairly generic IPA. I kegged it, drank some, it was alright. Soon after I finished a couple other beers that were much better so I unhooked this one and, not having enough space in my beer fridge, put it in the back of the garage. This was in maybe November of '12. Fast forward to last weekend. A buddy and I are brewing and he asks "whats in that keg"? pointing to the aforementioned keg that is covered with grass clippings and spider webs hiding in the corner of my garage. I say "let's not talk about that", as I am terrified to open the thing because I'm sure something alive and horrible is now living inside of this keg that has spent almost 2 years in an Oklahoma garage...temps ranging from probably 130 in the summer to below zero in the winter and everything in between. My buddy, who is sort of an idiot, decides IMMA TRY THAT. So, we purge the keg...and it smells fantastic. He draws out a bit and...it looks fantastic. He tries it...and it tastes fantastic. It isn't really an IPA anymore, the fresh hop flavor is long gone, but it tastes something like a really bitter dubbel or a strong pale ale. I hooked it back up and have been drinking it since, and I am in love. I don't even know.
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Sep 10, 2014 15:58
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Was in Portland a few weeks ago and had Deschutes Fresh Squeezed IPA at their brewpub and have been kind of pining for it ever since. Solution: try and make my own. Thoughts on this recipe, adapted from here? HOME BREW RECIPE: Title: Fresh Squeezed IPA Clone Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: American IPA Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 7.4 gallons Boil Gravity: 1.049 Efficiency: 60% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.067 Final Gravity: 1.019 ABV (standard): 6.28% IBU (tinseth): 59.67 SRM (morey): 9.67 FERMENTABLES: 14 lb - American - Pale 2-Row (84.2%) 1 lb - American - Munich - Light 10L (6%) 10 oz - American - Caramel / Crystal 75L (3.8%) 1 lb - American - Wheat (6%) HOPS: 1 oz - Nugget, Type: Pellet, AA: 14, Use: First Wort, IBU: 29.45 1 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 13.85 1 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 13, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 16.37 1 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 0 min 1 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Dry Hop for 5 days MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Infusion, Temp: 152 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 18 qt, Water Temp: 170 2) Temp: 170 F, Amount: 20 qt, Water Temp: 190 Starting Mash Thickness: 1.25 qt/lb OTHER INGREDIENTS: 1 each - whirlfloc, Type: Fining, Use: Boil YEAST: Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05 Starter: Yes NOTES: 3 L starter Dry Hop 1 oz citra in secondary Mainly curious about the addition of the wheat plus a Deschutes beer using American yeast as I thought most of their stuff was done with English. bewbies fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Dec 3, 2014 |
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Dec 3, 2014 19:34
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So I don't think I've ever actually bragged about a beer I've done but...I have to now. I finished a clone of Deschutes' Fresh Squeezed IPA today. This is prohibitively the best beer I've ever made and one of the best beers I've ever had, period. Recipe is courtesy of some random homebrewtalk thread then adjusted by goons, so thank you to whoever had input into it. HOME BREW RECIPE: Title: Fresh Squeezed IPA Clone Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: American IPA Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 7.4 gallons Boil Gravity: 1.047 Efficiency: 60% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.064 Final Gravity: 1.018 ABV (standard): 6.03% IBU (tinseth): 60.77 SRM (morey): 11.66 FERMENTABLES: 13.5 lb - American - Pale 2-Row (84.4%) 1 lb - American - Munich - Light 10L (6.3%) 1 lb - American - Caramel / Crystal 75L (6.3%) 8 oz - American - Wheat (3.1%) HOPS: 1 oz - Nugget, Type: Pellet, AA: 14, Use: First Wort, IBU: 29.99 1 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 14.11 1 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 13, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 16.67 1 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 0 min 1 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Dry Hop for 5 days MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Infusion, Temp: 152 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 18 qt, Water Temp: 170 2) Temp: 170 F, Amount: 20 qt, Water Temp: 190 Starting Mash Thickness: 1.25 qt/lb OTHER INGREDIENTS: 1 each - whirlfloc, Type: Fining, Use: Boil YEAST: Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05 Starter: Yes Form: Dry Attenuation (avg): 72% Flocculation: Medium Optimum Temp: 59 - 75 F Fermentation Temp: 68 F Pitch Rate: 1.0 (M cells / ml / deg P) NOTES: 3 L starter Dry Hop 1 oz citra in secondary
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Jan 1, 2015 20:48
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McSpergin posted:Hold on, just out of curiosity you did a starter with dry US05? Any particular reason? I usually just throw as many packets as beersmith tells me, mainly because it's cheap as chips but I'd be curious to see why you did a starter. I almost always make a starter, probably more habit than anything. I feel like I get better results with starters and I use dry yeast almost exclusively.
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Jan 2, 2015 18:26
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 18:45 |
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Jermaine Dildoe posted:Starter or rehydrate? Because there's no reason to make a starter with dry yeast, the cell count is already sufficient Starter. For 5.5 gallon batches of mid and heavy ales using 04 and 05 yeasts I think there's a noticeable difference between using a starter and not. Shrug.
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Jan 2, 2015 19:46
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