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Factory Factory posted:Repeat after the thread title: gently caress OCZ. I'm currently running on an OCZ Agility 60gig. It's the second one I've had, since I had to RMA the first one after 18 months because it just started randomly corrupting files on it. There was about a week's worth of troubleshooting involving reinstalling windows 3 times to make sure it wasn't something with my install, then doing their total erase and installing again and waiting until it started corrupting files. Then I imaged the least corrupt system onto an old 80gig ata/66 disk which kept me running until the replacement got here. No more OCZ for me, that was enough of a headache. I'm hoping the Crucial M4 I recently installed on another system will be a lot more stable over time.
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May 2, 2012 04:03
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I posted previously that my OCZ Agility had died at some point (after about 18 months of use) and been RMA'd. I've had the replacement drive for about 11 months and now it is corrupting the filesystem, too. I'm still in warranty from my original purchase, but if you had told me that I'd need to RMA the same drive twice in that three year period, I'd have purchased an Intel. Now that there's more manufacturers with reliable drives, I'm debating buying a M4 and relegating the OCZ poo poo they replace to a less important PC than the main one I do everything on, because having it up and die every year or so sure is frustrating. Oh, and because they've got the OCZ technology forum, of course they'll probably recommend to run their destructive flash and reinstall the drive and use it until it fails again to make sure it's actually going bad, so there's going to be a week of frustrating PC hardware swapping and windows reinstalling before I actually get an RMA, most likely. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Jul 3, 2012 |
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Jul 3, 2012 12:50
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Binary Badger posted:Crossposted from the SSD deals thread in Coupons and Deals: Amazon seems to have matched that price as well. I ordered one to replace my failed OCZ brick.
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Jul 7, 2012 20:49
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Magic Underwear posted:I know this topic has probably been played out in this thread, but I wanted to convey my disappointment with Crucial. I got a 128gb m4 last year and recently dealt with constant bluescreens of unknown origin, happening regularly regardless of load. Eventually I suspected it was the SSD, seeing as the bluescreens always froze before writing the minidump, suggesting the system couldn't see the drive anymore. There's all kinds of crazy HD bugs, it's not a specific issue with SSDs. I have four Seagate 640 gig drives in RAID 5. I put the system together at the end of 2008. For the first couple of years if they had a lot of data being written, the array would often panic and lose one of the drives, meaning I'd need to reboot and rebuild the volume. I tried new cables, the newest chipset drivers, and nothing worked. I was convinced it was the motherboard. One time while the raid volume was rebuilding, one of the other drives dropped out. Oops, data loss. Then after testing the drives one by one with Seatools, I found that this was an ongoing problem with those Seagate drives, and it was finally fixed with new firmware. It wasn't fixed immediately after Seagate found it, it was fixed in 2010. It was some crazy intermittent timeout issue with those and a lot of other Seagate drives. Now that the firmware's been released and updated the drives work great and I've had no further problems.
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Jul 30, 2012 21:43
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toplitzin posted:Here I am again, with another woot deal, this time it's a Crucial refurb, thoughts? The drive isn't too bad, but the warranty is 30 days. It's just my personal opinion, but with the trouble I've had with HDs and SSDs, I prefer to have 3 years or more on a warranty. With the recent Samsung 830 and Crucial M4 128 gb drives going for ~$90 on sale new, I think they're a better deal. Since Woot! charges $5 shipping and you can usually get the M4 or 830 from amazon or newegg with free shipping, it's about $15 more for a new drive (and 8 gigs of extra space as well).
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Aug 7, 2012 15:37
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Tunga posted:If I'm building a mITX machine (just office/media use) with a 128GB Samsung 830, should I care about H61 not having SATA III / 6Gbps? Moving to H67/H77 would double the motherboard price but I'd rather not bottleneck the drive. For office/media use it's probably not worth the extra money for 6Gbps.
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Oct 25, 2012 10:20
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atomicthumbs posted:I bought an OCZ Agility 3 60gb a bit more than a year ago. I'm using it as a system drive. Is my data at risk? Very yes. You should have automatic backups (everyone should by now) and since you're on an OCZ drive don't keep your data on the system disk to begin with.
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Dec 15, 2012 02:13
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Vermouth posted:OCZ Vertex2 owner experiencing failure as we speak. The computer no longer reports the details of the drive in BIOS, just "Sandforce", the computer does something then next screen shows up with "Please install an operating system, press any key to continue." You're not alone, after my second Agility drive ate itself (the first was unrecoverable and had to be RMAd), I'm done with OCZ. I'm amazed anyone still buys their products or sticks up for them, although I still see folks on every ocz sale on slickdeals talk about how new firmware has magically fixed them using bad parts somehow. I hope they're being paid and not just forcefully ignorant.
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Dec 20, 2012 06:31
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Call Now posted:I was supposed to buy a Samsung 830, but then someone gave me an OCZ Agility 3 for free. Is it okay to use or should I just sell it to someone else? I was going to buy a gold coin but someone gave me a cow pie for free.
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Dec 22, 2012 20:21
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willie_dee posted:I got given a Samsung 840 120gig, is it going to be any good or is it a waste of time compared to the pro version? I'm upgrading from a regular hard drive. Any SSD is a massive upgrade from a hard disk. Most of the warnings against the 840 have to do with it using less durable memory than other brands, so it may not last as long. With the modern controllers, how long is usually still very long, and that particular model hasn't existed long enough for anyone to be exactly sure. The Pro version is shaping up to be a really fantastic SSD which is why it's recommended. As for the regular 840, despite not being as good, it's not an OCZ drive.
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Jan 2, 2013 02:20
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Harik posted:If windows file copy gets stuck forever, is that a indicator of a faulty SSD? In linux any kind of stall like that would be clearly identified as to what the hell, but in windows it's just hung forever. It could be a lot of things, windows file copies aren't very verbose about what's going on. I'd dobule check that you have the right sata (AHCI) or raid controller drivers installed and run a chkdsk to see if anything's wrong with the filesystem. SSD or not sometimes there's just weird errors.
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Jan 9, 2013 11:55
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beyonder posted:I have had this 256GB M4 for about eight months. I'm not sure if it's normal, but here's my 128GB M4 after 7 months on SATA II, which has some similar ratings: 
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Jan 18, 2013 04:57
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beyonder posted:Am I worrying about nothing or is the drive having issues? As long as the drive feels fast I wouldn't be too worried. As long as my SSD isn't corrupting my filesystem like my OCZ one used to and launches programs nearly instantly, I'm pretty happy with it. Benchmarks are great for comparing models to each other but don't have a lot of bearing on actual use.
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Jan 18, 2013 20:07
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Migishu posted:Windows disk manager didn't let me do anything, and I don't have a CD drive, which is why I wanted to avoid using boot disks. I haven't tried it myself but this blog suggests using bcdboot to set a drive as your boot disk: http://www.hanselman.com/blog/SwitchingMyWindows7BootDiskFromDToCWithBCDBootRatherThanBCDEdit.aspx I guess the command line would be bcdboot c:\windows /s c: from an administrator command prompt. I'm just assuming that that would create the boot sector, back in my day we did fdisk /mbr but that doesn't work anymore!
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Jan 18, 2013 21:32
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Dreadbot posted:I bought an OCZ Vertex 3 480GB from Amazon a couple months ago because they had a flash sale and that's the first I've seen a larger-sized SSD for a price I could swallow. Since I was in a sort of SA dark ages I didn't think to check on here, although I did read about the hullabaloo involving the early firmware for the Sandforce controller. A friend of mine has had a Vertex 4 for a year now with no problems other than having to reinstall Windows to update the firmware shortly after he got it. What should I be worried about with my drive being an OCZ? (I have both local and remote backup, so I'm not too concerned about data loss.) Don't put anything on it you want to keep (back everything up). I've been using Cobian Backup as a nice freeware utility that can just copy stuff from place A to place B at whatever schedule I want, but you can use whatever you want. I use it to mirror my documents to my NAS every hour or so (since there's not often new stuff it doesn't really bog anything down) and then I sync music and games and stuff every week or so. I have it setup on another system to copy the entire SSD contents from an install onto a mechanical HD once a week (plus incremental docs backups to the NAS also). Backups backups backups!
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Jan 20, 2013 02:11
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scanlonman posted:Can someone point me in the right direction for a office desktop SSD? I'm looking to spend around $150, less is ideal. For an office you'd probably want something very reliable. I'd look into the Intel SSDs (and don't forget to back everything up just in case).
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Jan 23, 2013 21:40
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Martytoof posted:I hate to be general when asking, but is there a trend as to what symptoms SSDs exhibit when they go bad? Is it more of a "wham, it was there and now it's not", or more of a slow burn like magnetic disks? I'm not sure that they're all the same, but here's my anecdotal story. When my OCZ drive died it began with some programs failing to launch with errors. There then seemed to be corrupt windows files that were unable to be fixed with sfc /scannow or anything like it. A couple of days later (luckily after I imaged the fucker) it wouldn't boot because presumably more of the filesystem had gotten corrupt. The OCZ support forum staff had me do a destructive flash to the latest version (add a jumper, reboot, run the flasher, remove jumper, have a clean updated drive). I reinstalled on it and it worked for a couple of days until things went corrupt more quickly this time; pretty much like the first paragraph but in a matter of hours instead of days. After this I was told to RMA the drive. The replacement drive did the same thing as the first paragraph again about eight months later. The destructive flash seemed to actually get the drive working again at this point so I didn't RMA the second one, but I wasn't about to use it for anything critical and bought a new SSD. As an aside, since the drive seems to work now but could just randomly corrupt stuff at any time without warning, my plan is to use that old OCZ drive on a non critical system that I want to boot quickly to run my old SCSI scanner from the 90s or something. All data will go to the NAS.
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Jan 24, 2013 23:35
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NerdPolice posted:I've had a Quantum drive running since the late 90's in a machine that won't accept new drives and cannot be replaced due to legacy software we are too poor to replace. I am terrified of what the future brings knowing Maxtor bought Quantum Quantum drives were okay, I still have a Fireball that works. It's probably time to make a plan for when that PC dies, however.
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Jan 28, 2013 07:41
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Xenomorph posted:Yeah, I was just about to suggest CF + IDE. If he doesn't mind the wait those adapters are also much much cheaper from China or HK on ebay. I ended up getting two of each kind (two plug into motherboard/female, two PCI slot that plug into ribbon cable and two plug into ribbon cable and leave loose in the case or affix) for running m0n0wall or freenas on old systems that don't have boot from USB. I think I paid less than $3 per adapter and they work perfectly since CF has a native IDE mode (so the devices pretty much just give the cards power with a floppy connector and map the CF pinout to the IDE). As always, your experience ordering cheap Chinese stuff from ebay may vary from mine, and shipping times suck, but I ended up with a small bag of those guys and I use two constantly. They have jumpers for voltage (3.3v or 5v) and master/slave for the kind that plug into the IDE chain on the motherboard (since they can hold two CF cards and the bus addresses one as master and one as slave).
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Jan 28, 2013 15:36
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Peven Stan posted:Hmm the bluescreen problem is back with my Samsung 840. I'm not sure at this point whether or not to its the sketchy AMD AHCI driver (from 2007) or some other reason. Before it would blue screen on login. Now I can login and as long as I'm using the computer it runs fine, but when I stop using it for a while and let it idle it goes to a BSOD. Memtest86 returned nothing funny about the RAM, so I think it's down to the SSD not playing well with ancient AMD drivers or my motherboard finally giving up the ghost. Maybe your motherboard is powering down the SSD when it's idle and loving it up. New systems don't seem to do this, but it was always a recommended thing to do for SSDs back a few years. I have an older AMD system too and I've always kept this setting to make sure that doesn't happen:  It's in power options, change setting (for whatever power mode you're running in) and then hit Advanced Settings. The collapsed tree for drive settings will let you change your HD to power down never (it may switch to never if you put in 0 minutes, I forget the exact setting). Taking the screenshot I just noticed the battery power option for my UPS so I'm going to change that one to Never, too, since it'll power off the system anyway. It's also possible that that is ancient ritualistic SSD gobbeldygook and won't help, but I'd give it a shot if your system is bluescreening while you leave it idle.
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Jan 29, 2013 04:31
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Sri.Theo posted:Please tell me if I'm crazy. My SSD doesn't fit because of these two small pieces of plastic As long as the connectors line up I'd totally snap those guys off or file them down, but I'm pretty reckless with my hardware. Is it still under warranty? If so I'd be really careful with doing anything that might void it. If not, make it fit!
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Jun 24, 2013 10:59
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darkhand posted:I had an ocz vertex 2. Had it to about 100 out of 120. Trim has been enabled since I got it. Ordered a new drive already since it's still acting funky. When my old OCZ agility started failing it began just by corrupting some files. Then most of the files, then it wouldn't boot but I was able to get a lot of stuff off of it before the whole destructive flash/RMA rigamarole. The first one lasted 18 months, the second one didn't last that long but I couldn't RMA it since it was just past warranty on the original drive. Your SSD shouldn't just stop your PC from booting because it's getting full, being full usually just causes write amplification and reduces lifespan. Flaky behavior like you're experiencing is probably something wrong with it. While it's common knowledge now but wasn't when I got mine originally, let me just restate to never buy OCZ.
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Sep 28, 2013 23:17
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ThermoPhysical posted:Since I'll be putting 7 to 8 to 8.1 on my SSD, is there anything I should do special for the SSD? Why do you need to install an operating system to update the bios? There are usually bootable utilities available to do so on the manufacturer's website. Also you shouldn't need to do anything to your OS as long as you're using a modern SSD in AHCI mode and make sure TRIM is enabled.
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Oct 31, 2013 22:33
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ThermoPhysical posted:I was going to update the BIOS on my mobo (Gigabyte EX38-DS4) from f3 to f6d mod (the non-mod version is a beta from Gigabyte from back in 2009), but apparently the mod broke someone's board so I'm weary to change to it. I'd say try it with the current BIOS. If you get 10 minute hang ups while trying to boot with AHCI mode then flash the bios to whatever you think the safest version will be (I guess f5 based on your post but I don't know anything about the board aside from what you've relayed to us). Otherwise don't worry about flashing the bios, usually you save doing that for when you're actually having an issue that a bios update might solve.
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Nov 3, 2013 09:22
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I still like to use SteamMover for making junctions, but I only use it for steam games and in the opposite direction as to what you're suggesting. I know Steam added the ability to keep installs in two places now but I mostly keep everything on my data drive and if it's going to be an MMO or FPS where I want faster disk access I use SteamMover to move the game over to the SSD. When I'm done/bored I move it back. Since SteamMover just runs console commands to make junctions and copy data it's very basic. http://www.traynier.com/software/steammover
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Nov 20, 2013 22:09
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Factory Factory posted:Crucial Tech Support update: Once I sent in my faulty C300, they had very fast turnaround shipping me an M4. The drive I got is refurbished, showing 100% write endurance left (which means either they reset SMART or it was a DOA return). Newest firmware I know that they're no longer considered good drives due to the hosed up firmware updates from Crucial, but I have two M4s that have been running well for about a year and a half, so hopefully you got a good replacement.
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Nov 23, 2013 08:15
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Chuu posted:Newegg has the 240G 840 Evo and Intel 530 at the exact same price ($160) as a Black Friday special. I'm upgrading from a mechanical 2.5" disk in an older laptop (core2 based centrino platform). The laptop only supports SATA I or SATA II, not sure which. Power consumption is a pretty important factor; it's right on the edge with what I'm comfortable with without carrying a brick around. If you're running Windows 7 or 8 then you'll have TRIM support and either is a good choice. The EVO is faster and the Intel is in theory more reliable (but not so much as to make a much difference). If you're running Vista or XP then the Intel will be better for running without TRIM support. SSDs use less power than spinning hard disks. With the price being the same and all SSDs being "fast" compared to a mechanical disk, I'd buy the Intel since you've got an older system and you can carry it to a new system if you upgrade in the next couple of years.
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Nov 29, 2013 12:47
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Craptacular! posted:Weird question: Will I see much difference to just using the SSD as a place to move games to and launch them, without moving my whole OS to the drive? That's only really an issue with smaller drives. I just use mine normally except that I keep large files on a secondary drive (like my steam install or video files) and when I'm playing a game that benefits from better load times like an MMO or FPS I use SteamMover to move it to the SSD from the storage drive. There's not a lot of hoops to jump through unless you just jam everything on your SSD and fill it up. e: and to answer the initial question, you won't see as much of a difference day to day unless you install your OS on the SSD. It's a really good idea to put the OS install on the SSD and it turns your computer from "I click the icon and I sit and wait while the HD grinds" to "I click the icon and everything pops up loving instantly." Sitting in front of the computer waiting for it to do whatever the hell wastes a lot of time. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Nov 29, 2013 |
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Nov 29, 2013 13:11
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Craptacular! posted:How do you handle regular app installs, etc? It's been a long time since I last tried establishing a "Program Files" directory on a different partition than the system was installed onto, and it didn't go so well. But that was also probably during the age of WinXP or maybe even earlier. Most programs I install on the SSD. I don't find that there are too many very large programs I need that aren't games. If they're very large I'll point the installer to a directory on the storage drive. The last time I think I did this was when I installed MS Office with a default install instead of just grabbing word and excel or whatever.
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Nov 29, 2013 13:31
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rage2kk2 posted:I use the same timeout for sleep as you do. Even with a power on/off cycle of 24 times in 24 hours x 30 days you get 720 cycles. I've only had the drive for 4 months, so in 120 days this drive is reporting it's been power cycled ~6800 times, an average of being powered on/off 56 times a day unless I butchered the math. It's likely the motherboard, my 840 Pro shows a power on count of 4 with 1446 hours of use. I think that is off by a few but it should still be under 20. Perhaps the power on count in SMART is just not very accurate.
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Dec 2, 2013 23:03
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Storysmith posted:So I have an unusual use case and I was wondering what SSDs would best fit it. I have two small SBCs, an Udoo and a Cubieboard. Think "slightly more advanced Raspberry Pi." Both run off of internal microSD cards, which are surprisingly slow even for UHS-1 speed rating. Any SSD is going to be fast compared to other drives. Since you'll be using them with Operating Systems without TRIM you should look at a Sandforce based drive like the Intel 530 or Intel 330. Unfortunately the great deals for those are mostly over, but if you're in the US there are still okay deals on the 530 on amazon, at $124 for 180gb and $159 for 240gb. http://www.amazon.com/Intel-2-5-Inc...words=intel+530
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Dec 3, 2013 15:42
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Alereon posted:They're available here, it improves TurboWrite (likely improving performance) and support for advanced hardware encryption, including TCG Opal and Microsoft eDrive. Well RAPID mode on the 840 Pro is just ridiculous, the sequential read/write test are over 850 MB/s for me now, up from the 550ish MB/s I had before RAPID was on.
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Dec 9, 2013 23:10
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RoadCrewWorker posted:Just to make sure, i can turn RAPID on and off on a dime (or rather a reboot) right? I guess the 2 GB ram are just allocated constantly and not dynamic as requested? Yeah you can just enable/disable it in the Samsung Magician software (requires a reboot). I don't see anything running on my system using a full 2 GB of ram anywhere so maybe it's dynamic? I'm honestly not sure but neither the rapid mode service or the rapid mode notification utility are using more than about 1.1 megabyte of ram right now and they're the only obvious rapid mode things on my process list.
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Dec 9, 2013 23:46
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Strong Sauce posted:I just got my 840 EVO that I got to replace my old C300. What is the best way to copy over the contents of the C300 over to the 840 EVO? This machine is my Windows 7 box. You'll want to use imaging software. I use GParted and CloneZilla a lot but they're live boot discs, I've heard goons suggest http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx often.
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Dec 10, 2013 07:59
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Bourbon posted:Yeah, but the more I think about it, the Magician defaults on the Advanced page will most likely vary from system to system since they initially reflect the OS defaults. Unfortunately I didn't pay attention to my OS defaults before I started clicking around on that Advanced OS Optimization tab in Magician. I think the only thing I applied was the Prefetch/Superfetch deal. Now I don't know which way it should be set. According to this (old) MSDN site, Windows 7 is supposed to disable it automatically anyway for SSDs. Mine's set this way:  . The only thing I've done is disable hibernate intentionally (I never use it and don't want a 16gb hiberfile.sys).
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Dec 10, 2013 19:54
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MondayHotDog posted:I have an SSD in my machine running Vista. I just bought a new motherboard, processor, and copy of 8.1. I want to format the drive before I swap in the new mobo, so I can make sure it'll be running in AHCI mode before installing Windows. What do you guys use for formatting a drive? And does Win8 still use NTFS? To wipe an SSD you'll want to use a utility with Secure Erase to restore the flash to like new state, then the windows 8.1 install will partition and format it for you.
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Dec 24, 2013 23:03
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MondayHotDog posted:Is there a way to do this without some sort of bootable media? I'm trying to use HDDErase.exe but you need to run it from DOS, and I can't for the life of me get my system to boot from USB. I don't have a floppy or CD burner. If the drive is fairly new you might be fine without secure erase, but pretty much all secure erase utilities will require booting into another OS if your system disk is the SSD since it's getting wiped.
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Dec 25, 2013 06:22
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Antignition posted:Good to hear, thanks for the reassurance. To expand on what Factory Factory is saying, it is true that SATA II is slower than SATA III in terms of raw throughput. In real world daily use you will not notice a difference between the two. The main thing you will notice is that your PC feels fast as hell on an SSD versus a HD. Loading a program will take a second or two. You won't sit there going "I know I clicked a thing, what the gently caress is it doing" while the drive chugs away. SSD is a bit like BONESTORM: 
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Dec 29, 2013 00:46
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Antignition posted:I am getting a bit frustrated, as dealing with this PNY XLR8 Pro I recently purchased has been one hassle after another. If you have some sata cables handy, try swapping them out. If you don't, reseat all of the cables in case one is loose.
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Jan 1, 2014 19:21
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fookolt posted:So I cloned my M4 to my EVO no problem and then when I went into the Windows 8.1 recovery disk to fix my boot loader with bootrec /rebuildbcd, it finds the Windows install (at "[1] \\?\GLOBALROOT\Device\HarddiskVolume1\Windows") but when I try to add it to the boot list, it says the requested system device cannot be found. I then go into diskpart and find that the SSD volume is hidden...What the gently caress? When i try to clear the hidden attribute on it, it says the object cannot be found. What utility did you use to clone the disk?
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Jan 7, 2014 10:26
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