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track day bro! posted:I thought AD08R's werent considered track tyres? I've been impressed with mine, although tbf I did 5 days last year on normal summer tyres. No, powder coating can weaken the wheel as you need to heat it up, and run the risk of ruining the annealing on the wheel if you don't use the correct temperature and duration, based on how the wheel was originally manufactured/annealed. The real issue is that since you can't ever be sure how the wheel was originally made/annealed without being the one making the wheel, you can't be sure what temps are safe afterwards to anneal to and thereby permanently weakening the wheel. Paint or plastidip is perfectly safe however. After seeing a few wheel failures at the bmw cca club race/hpde this past weekend (2 different people had spokes on their track wheels just crack in half, 4 out of 5 spokes broke on 1 wheel at the same time, made it into the pits with just 1 spoke holding the whole thing together!) I'm taking wheels a heck of a lot more serious. The thing cracking and failing on track is one of the scariest things I can imagine.
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Aug 27, 2015 14:50
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Were these stock wheels or aftermarket? The only wheel failure I've seen personally was on a Mustang, and I'm not sure it was stock. Mustang guys seem to have no qualms running super cheap GT500 and Cobra knockoffs that I am extremely leary of. Aftermarket, had been running it for 5 years, and the stress of r-comps finally caught up to it and it snapped. Wheels are stressed parts, need to be replaced every few years like harnesses.
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Aug 28, 2015 20:35
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nollij posted:Crappers. Was considering the F14 as I saw some other track cars using them. Next option up for custom size and offset is CCW. The Corsair series is ~$800/wheel though. I see nothing special about forgestar wheels, they are cast/flow formed. Forge in the name and not selling actually forged wheels doesn't exactly sit right with me. CCW's look to be cnc milled from Alcoa blanks, nothing special there either. Be wary of any designs that are not sold in either Japan or Germany or another country that does mandatory wheel certification. Certification doesn't necessarily mean the wheel will survive loads of track time, but it will certify that the design is sound at least, and shouldn't be an immediate death trap. People seem to really like the Apex wheels, lots of folks track them in the bmw cca clubs on r comps with no issues that I've seen. Not legal for spec class club racing (wider than stock wheel size) unlimited guys seem to go with something lighter/more exotic in their classes, but the other guys in the HPDE's don't seem to have any issues. crazzy fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Aug 30, 2015 |
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Aug 30, 2015 05:16
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NitroSpazzz posted:We've been running kosei k1 for the past several years. Never had one break other than one that was slammed into a wall at speed. Cheap and light so no complaints from us. Yep, kosei is extremely popular with the bmw cca clubs, seems to fail a lot less than the d-force wheels which have had some bad batches and rampant failures.
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Aug 30, 2015 16:34
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nollij posted:Apex wheels only go up to 10.5" wide and aren't custom offset. Holy crap that is some seriously wide wheels/tires. The apex recommendation is for BMW's only, as apex is targeting custom bmw fitments. What car are you trying to get wheels for, a corvette/911/viper? Not that many other cars will take a 12" wide wheel in the rear, not to mention the fronts. I'd think tires will bankrupt you faster than the wheels at that size also, not to mention selection is going to be extremely limited.
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Aug 30, 2015 19:36
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nollij posted:Well, those too... Both of which are proportional to velocity. So, I imagine that the optimal tire size is relative to track configuration. Nice, looks like a dedicated track toy at this point. What sort of power is it putting down, and what do you having going on with suspension and brakes? I'd like to think some really dialed in JRZ's (or equivalent brand) for the track you're running and the biggest brakes you can find would yield the sorts of improvements you're looking for, but that level of calibration for each individual track is getting into the professional race team sort of realm. Only real drawbacks I can see from going really wide with wheels/tires is not being able to get enough heat in the r-comps, but if you're putting down good power and have some aero it shouldn't be much of an issue. Might wear out wheel bearings a bit quicker due to different wheel offset loading the bearing at a slightly different angle. Sounds like you've got the fender clearance worked out already. Turn in is probably going to be worse, and will tramline like crazy you ever drive it on public roads. I've heard that lots of guys with time attack setups like a lot of toe out for high speed stability, not sure how accurate that is, but I'd believe it, as steering feel with most likely be significantly reduced with wheels/tires that wide. Power steering pump probably needs a dedicated cooler also since it's going to have to work much harder to rotate those big r-comps if you don't have a cooler already.
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Aug 31, 2015 14:28
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Yea, a lot of this is extremely variable depending on which club/chapter you run with. I know some of the Porsche clubs near me in the NE almost demand any advanced/solo drivers for DE's need fully prepped race cars with current log books and non-expired seats/harnesses. ..........and then some bmw/audi clubs just want to make sure your lug nuts are tight and you aren't actively dropping fluids during tech, otherwise you're good to go! run what you brung!
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Jan 15, 2017 17:10
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kimbo305 posted:Piggybacking on this discussion, I'm looking to get some decent summer tires for my Boxster, maybe 200-300AA. Depends on use case: DD, Michelin Pilot Sport 4s Autocross, Rival S 1.5 Track, RE-71r (maybe hankook rs4), ZIISS lasts a bit longer but is slower If the ZIISS was greasy, you had too much tire pressure/got them too hot. Extremecontact Sport closes the performance gap to the pilot super sport/pilot 4s, but it still a half notch worse or so. YMMV.
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May 25, 2017 15:12
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TrueChaos posted:Re71r's wear too fast for me to bother with them as a track tire, I've seen multiple people cord them at around the 5-7 hours of track time mark. Depends on the weight of the car, setup, etc. It's the most commonly used tire in AER and the like, ideally your pace/setup should get them bald/cord at right around the 9 hour mark. YMMV of course.
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May 25, 2017 17:47
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Blaise posted:What's the typical life of another ~200TW tire? Running A008Rs here in a stock miata. So hard to make blanket statements, because all the manufacturers are cheating with the 200TW stamp now. RE-71r's, RS4's, Rival S's all have very short life spans, more like a 100TW tire. ZIISS and RS3's are closer to what a true 200TW should be, but are no longer competitive lap times wise. Miata's are extremely gentle on tires, so I don't have any exact lifespan numbers for those, but there is tons of info online, I'm sure Emilio Cervantes has hours posted somewhere about them.
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May 25, 2017 17:54
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mekilljoydammit posted:Are RS4s (or any of those really) usable as budget street tires? I've heard tell that Z2s are only a couple seconds slower than Hoosiers in the dry, and usable in the wet... it would be nice to have an intermediate tire instead of just chunking Hoosier H2Os. I mean, if you don't drive much they are usable, but will have pretty short life spans, be loud as hell, really stiff ride, etc. All of the 200TW tires are way off the pace of a hoosier, depending on the track, a few seconds (5 or more) is about right depending on the car/driver/etc. Hoosier H2O's are way faster than any of the 200TW's in the rain. The 200TW's are only good in the rain when brand new, wet performance seems to fall off a cliff as they wear. If you are racing, hoosier/slicks/rains are a must if the series allows it (won't be competitive otherwise). If you are DE'ing or open tracking, 200TW tires are a waaaaaay better use of $.
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May 25, 2017 19:33
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mekilljoydammit posted:I'm running wheel to wheel - I'm up against Hoosier R7s being about $300-400/weekend; this is a price I'm resigned to. I would occasionally like to do shakedowns on public roads without worrying about getting a rock through the R7s, and I would like something better than R7s if the track gets wet. At the same time, I don't want to shell out the $1200 for something that mostly just sits, and apparently will only live for a session or two before chunking. If that's the use case, the re71r/rs4/z2ss are completely usable, and are a hell of a lot better than an r7 in the rain. Someone with fresh 0 heat cycle hoosier h2o's will be faster, but as a compromise the 200tw tires are fantastic. I personally did not like the re71r in the rain when they were 50% tread or less, I think the rs4 and z2ss are supposed to be better in that regard.
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May 25, 2017 20:14
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NitroSpazzz posted:Tire chat...good timing. I'm trying to decide how much rubber I want to stuff under the M3. Car should be under 2400lb (aiming for ~2200) and have 240hp. I can supposedly fit 245's with a little fender rolling but I'm not sure if that's overkill and worth the weight penalty. Wheels will be 17x8.5 to clear the brakes, only aero will be splitter and DTM flap. e30 or e36? e36 245's all the way, run the spacer up front, rears rolled slightly. Don't know the e30 as much so i can't help you there but to say most everyone is running 225's on the e30 chassis, unless it's a widebody/flared s52/54 swap. The jump to r7's is a vastly larger chasm than most people attribute (costs/performance/etc). You really only get ~8 heat cycles (8 sessions or 1 normal DE weekend) out of them before they fall of the pace by 0.5 to 1 second per lap or so. For DE's you're much better off with the BFG R1 or the Toyo RR, cheaper price, many more heat cycles left in them, a bit better behaved at the limit/more slip angle, etc. Be aware that all the DOT slicks lie like mad about width, a 245 hoosier is like a 265 or 275 200TW tire in terms of sidewall to sidewall clearance for shocks/fenders. So if you're running 245 200TW tires, the size for a R7 would be a 225 or so. Still expect some massaging to happen with fenders as you fit them the first time.
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May 26, 2017 20:20
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SpaceRangerJoe posted:I've been happy with 235x40x17 NT01s on my E36 M3. I'm very comfortable with the performance, but they don't last worth a drat. Tread is all but gone after 3 days of HPDE. By day 5, they'll typically be corded. Unless my brother drives, then he'll lock up the brakes on day 2 or 3 and flat spot a tire or two to the cords. NT01's have a pretty long lifespan compared to other track tires. What section of the tires are you cording? If it's the shoulders, you need more camber/sway bar. Does the car not have functioning abs? Or are your pads too aggressive for the grip the NT01 has?
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May 26, 2017 21:51
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SpaceRangerJoe posted:ABS doesn't work. I'm pretty sure it's a bad pump, or more likely the wiring in the pump. It's on the to-do list. I can drive and manage to not lock them up, so I just wasn't in a hurry to fix it. -3.5 to -3.8 degrees of camber is a lot for nt01's, the big front bar should help a lot. Maybe you need a bigger bar out back to make it understeer a bit less? But with that amount of camber, you're really only braking with the inside shoulders of the tires, which means a lot less contact patch, which means abs engages sooner/you lock them up sooner, etc. You can get away with that much camber on hoosiers/slicks because they just have so much grip under braking, I haven't seen any "street" tires come anywhere close to slicks under braking still. Street tires always feel sketchy/unstable with maximum braking compared to slicks, so a lot of people run -2.5 to -3.0 camber up front with "street" tires and just do more with sway bars and spring rates to optimize tire wear instead of compromising braking performance. I am calling nt01's "street" tires because their performance/characteristics is much more similar to the 200TW's nowadays than it is a hoosier r7.
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May 31, 2017 14:37
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net work error posted:Is Harry's Lap Timer any better/worse than RaceChrono for Android? Looking to get some simple timing and maybe some additional data if possible. all very similar, really depends on how fast/accurate the internal gps in your phone is (re: not very). both greatly benefit from an external bluetooth gps radio (~$200 or something like that) At those price tags, you get close to the aim solo price tag ($400 new)
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Jun 22, 2017 17:56
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Crustashio posted:Are you doing time trials? Or just lapping? There's not much point to burning off RE71s (or Rival S) if you're not trying to win. I do the same thing, but with slicks. I just bought a set of toyo RR's because they should last a bit longer than hoosier r7's for de/open track days. 275 slicks are slim pickings for options  re71's kinda suck on the street, i second the notion to try out the rs4's, since they should be a better street compromise.
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Jul 15, 2017 15:43
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BlackMK4 posted:I'd keep running that until it cracks to the edge, but I am cheap. General rule is to replace them once you can catch a fingernail on one of the cracks. I've had friends than ran them till they cracked to the edge, whole rotor wound up splitting with a 1/4" gap, lost control of the car and almost crashed at the glen.....
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Sep 10, 2018 15:02
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FatCow posted:I generally run things to the edge, but I'd trash those. That guy in the middle is going to grow. Aren't you in a miata though? Try that at 140+mph coming into the bus stop at the glen and I don't think you'll come out the other side...
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Sep 11, 2018 14:25
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KillHour posted:How is that supposed to work with ABS? ABS doesn't really work so good when the car is spinning..... In such a situation once the tires have lost grip at a high enough speed, you'll basically keep heading in the direction you're going, ABS will attempt to do stuff but doesn't really help matters, probably increases stopping distance on pavement, maybe shorter stopping distances on the grass or dirt. Once you slow down to where the tires can grip again, the car normally has that tank slap moment where grip is suddenly there for some tires but not all, and the car snaps and spins and such. Once the car lets loose past any catchable angle, you're a passenger, and there's nothing you can do besides keeping the wheel straight and both feet in (brake and clutch). While both feet in doesn't necessarily fix the situation, it's the best option. Not putting both feet in can have much worse results where the car slingshots much further to the opposite side of the track. Make sure to try to keep the wheel straight also, unless you're headed straight for the wall, in which case holding the wheel could break your hands or arms if the steering column shoots into the cabin a few inches.
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Sep 15, 2018 19:47
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net work error posted:Let me know if I have this right please. no, the opposite. because the left tires have more force on them, the tire pressure will raise more due to the extra load/work which causes higher temperatures. so you want a few psi lower in the left tires than the right, and then when you come off hot you measure and get them back to the desired hot psi. now, after you get the hot pressure, you could choose to move the left side 1 psi higher than the right. normal is to run side to side basically even, otherwise it can cause odd handling behaviors. but this is dependant on your specific car and its setup, so ymmv.
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Sep 29, 2018 17:55
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Voltage posted:Yeah I've already done a shitload of work to the miata - entire braking system, clutch, oil seals, new interior carpet, heatercore, super huge radiator, full exhaust/intake/headers etc. so a rollbar should be easy - I just don't want to "ruin it" for the street since me and my wife always take it out for weekend trips in the summer. you'll be fine in the civic for a few events, do a few and see if you go crazy and fall in love with it. if you do, get a SECOND miata...
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Jan 17, 2019 15:09
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NitroSpazzz posted:The whole group of them is a bunch of dip shits, none of them were checking flag stands and if they were they should have slowed the hell down. They were backed off to 7-8/10th's, that's what you do under a full course yellow so you can catch up to the pace/safety car. In if you are going too slowly, the pace car can't bunch up the field. AER has black flagged cars for going too slowly during a full course yellow. AER would have red flagged it if there was debris on the track that was a serious risk.
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Apr 23, 2019 23:43
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Fuzz_83 posted:Open passing, while not racing to me is dumb. Non-Point by in dedicated zones (Straight line, straight steering wheel, before the braking zone) which is what we do at Schools, Lapping Days, no issues with insurance. Big difference. I've never had a problem with this running the north east US, the open passing days or groups are normally all racers in racecars, or seasoned TT guys, or racers in street cars. Days tend to be invite only, and run groups during other events tend to be racers only in race cars with nets up in full safety gear. I don't see a problem with open passing, but I don't recommend it with normal hpde folks in the same session.
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May 13, 2019 16:28
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I drive a BBW posted:I’m not sure about other regions but in Texas both NASA and SCCA have seen a decline in race participation. It seems like WRL and other endurance orgs are the reason for that, at least around here. NASA north east seems to have rebounded after a decline of a few years, but it seems to be dependent on class, some classes have shrunk, some have grown, i'd say overall its about even (specE30 was 26 cars this past race!). Endurance racing definitely stole people, but some have come back as the costs in those series has soared and priced people out (myself included). Renting a seat in AER, i've been quoted ~$4k/weekend, some don't include the friday/qualifying, some do. Most teams also demand a large liability number, some are over $50k liability if the car is destroyed while you are driving, regardless of fault of course. And these are normally for the slower classes, class 2 and 3, can't imagine the numbers for a class 5 car. Chump car remains affordable from what I've seen, WRL doesn't run around here so i can't compare the prices.
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Jun 17, 2019 15:50
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Crustashio posted:If you're looking for long lasting, most enduro teams run RS4s are report they wear extremely well. My experience has been ~25-50% longer than the re71r's. Not quite as much grip (pretty close) but they like a larger slip angle as well, so they lack that "sticky/planted" feel that some people love.
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Jul 16, 2019 23:52
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The Prong Song posted:240 HP, 400tq. Manufacturer-rated ~7700lb towing capacity. AWD, adjustable air ride suspension. Bad idea for a tow car for a Miata, enclosed trailer and reasonable tools/spares? it will be able to pull it and stop it just fine, but in high cross winds the trailer will push the truck around and push you halfway into nearby lanes and you won't be able to control it. (ask me how i know........) I had a 20' V nose enclosed, and my 2017 GMC 1500 with the 6.2 motor rated at 9200 lbs bumper pull really struggled. the v nose made load leveling hitches impossible, and cross winds pushed me around and you could not keep it in your own lane. Every 18 wheeler going past was scary as hell. Trailer loaded up was probably ~8k lbs or so, and i ran with the truck empty in the bed, and loaded the trailer to center everything over its axles to reduce tongue weight, and it made minimal differences. I upgraded to an f250 diesel, and towing is night and day. Now i can't even tell i'm towing anything half the time, its that stable even with bumper pull and no load leveling hitch. Maybe if you got a 16 or 18' trailer, and a shorter overall height, mine was 9.5' tall, if you got like 7 or 8' tall to reduce the cross section it would be better.
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Sep 9, 2019 17:58
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