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Just a heads up, most cheaper chargers (particularly the kind with a detachable cable) don't short the data pins together - resulting in the phone/mobile device thinking it's connected to a computer. Which results in it pulling 500mA instead of its maximum.  If you're using an Android phone, if you go to settings -> battery, it'll show either AC or USB. If it shows USB, it's only pulling 500mA (tops). If it shows AC it's pulling as much as it can.My phone actually (slowly) discharges with a 500mA power source if I'm using a navigation app with the screen on. It pulls 1 amp if it thinks it's connected to an adapter (or if I enable fastcharge, but that's with a custom kernel and rom), which is enough to (slightly) charge it with GPS + screen + bluetooth all running. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Sep 24, 2012 |
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Sep 24, 2012 07:00
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After seeing the pics of the alternator location, suddenly my silver turd doesn't seem as horrible.. looks like Mazda dropped it about where my power steering pump is, with a bit more room. I will say, if my PS pump ever shits itself, it's getting abandoned and I'll be going with manual steering. gently caress pulling the intake manifold to swap a PS pump.. or PCV valve.. If you can't unload that inverter to someone else, let me know; Nikola Tesla sometimes passes out shitfaced here on his way home from the bars.
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Nov 4, 2012 10:33
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14 years/170k ain't bad from the original. The top tank on mine split at 165k, also the original from 1998. That radiator is a lot smaller than what I'd expect in a truck.. probably about the same size as mine in surface area.
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Nov 30, 2012 06:18
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I.. I was going to post some witty remark about "you think a CRV gets good mileage?"  Then I looked it up on fueleconomy.gov. You know, just to prove my point.  wait...  HOW THE gently caress DOES AN SUV GET THE SAME MILEAGE AS MY 2800 POUND PLASTIC ECONOBOX?!?!?   The mileage that cars from the past 3-5 years are getting just blows my mind...
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May 22, 2013 08:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's an SUV in name only, that's how. It's still a Civic underneath, just with a longer and taller body, Someone clearly hasn't looked under the hood of a 2006+ Civic. And if it was still a Civic, at least half of them would be sidelined with cracked engine blocks by now.. the R18 wasn't Honda's most reliable engine, anyway.I had no idea they even used the K24 in the CRV. Wasn't sure what they'd replaced the B20 with, to be honest - just haven't kept up with the CRV much. The K24 is a fantastic engine in just about every way.
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May 22, 2013 09:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think the only solution right now is a hybrid setup where the engine runs port-injected part of the time. Or do away with EGR entirely. I was pretty surprised to discover that my engine doesn't have it at all.
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May 23, 2013 05:52
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This made me look at the DOT codes on my tires. 3 1/2 years old.  I don't think the previous owner ever rotated them either, the rears look to be about 1/4 worn (fronts are bald with only a hint of a tread pattern).
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Aug 5, 2013 02:31
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For some reason I thought you were a young(er) whippersnapper.  Interstate generally has a hell of a battery, I just have issues with the CEO's personal politics. Glad to see the 70 coming back to life!
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Oct 13, 2013 12:16
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Not to start a  war, but going from original (at that time, about 13-14 year old) brake hoses to stainless made the brakes go from "meh" to "I just sneezed in the general direction of the pedal, now help me peel my face off the windshield" on my old Integra.It got new rotors and pads (AutoZone stuff) at the same time, but beyond that, brakes were stock. I suspect it was more replacing the original worn out hoses than anything that helped, but it took some serious right foot re-training to modulate the brakes after that. It was absolutely hilarious when I'd let friends drive it with me riding along..
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Jul 27, 2014 10:54
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Had exactly that happen to my last two HF multimeters. Both times I left them in the car, and the next time I used them... nada. I'd say the alternator may be weak as well, but that battery had to have a pretty nasty short internally. When did you get the Jeep?
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Sep 12, 2014 06:34
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Safe to assume you didn't get her insurance info, and you only have liability on it, right? I'd still take her to court, but that's me being more an rear end in a top hat than anything (I'd probably pocket the cash and ask for her to pay filing fees too; what's a dent in an older Ranger?) The Jeep looks drat good, what year is it? I definitely agree that the JK wheels will look better on it. How old is the Pontiyoa battery? I'm somehow still on the original battery (from 2005) on my car; it's weak and doesn't pass load tests, but at this point I'm holding off on replacing it more just to see how long the drat thing will last. I keep jumper cables with me, and have cash set aside for when it does crap. And it's the special snowflake battery that needs external venting hooked up, so I can't just pop into Wal-Mart to get a new one. Even if I could, last time I looked at group 75 batteries at Wal-Mart, all of them had a thick coat of dust, and dates that put them at well over a year old. Battery on the F-150 was doing the exact same thing about a year ago - jump it, it'd run fine, and you'd get 14V+ at idle at the terminals. Shut it off, and within a few minutes it was at 10V. Within a few more minutes it was down to 8V. If you loaded it up while idling (after a jumpstart, before driving) it would start misfiring and the lights got really dim (along with the cluster losing its poo poo, a flashing CEL, and the radio shutting off); load it a bit more (fan on high instead of low) and it would stall. Still on the original alternator, and it's been about a year since we replaced the battery. Battery was only about 2 or 3 years old, but it was from Wal-Mart, and the receipt was long gone. It has one from AutoZone now, so at least when it craps out again, we just need to provide the phone # to get it warrantied. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Sep 12, 2014 |
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Sep 12, 2014 08:23
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So uh, maybe start the engine and see if the PAC powers up once the alternator is charging? I'm leaning more toward dead myself though, if it won't power on with key on/engine off, even at 11.8V. I did the switched 12V wire to the amp bit when I tied my amp into my stock stereo (tapped into the back seat lighter/power outlet), and never redid it when I put in an aftermarket stereo. No issues. 
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May 13, 2015 18:28
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Both the Avalon and Ion need mounts. The Avalon needs them a bit more, since it's automatic and constantly stresses the rear mount. The Avalon will probably go to a shop for them. I'll probably do all but the rear mount myself on the Ion.
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Aug 2, 2015 06:19
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You Am I posted:My Ford Laser would idle like it was missing engine mounts for at least 30 seconds after I replaced the battery or reconnected the battery terminals. My Saturd gets a bouncing idle for about 30 seconds on the first start after the battery is disconnected. Takes a bit longer to fire up too.
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Sep 23, 2016 05:36
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My car is fully DBW, and still has to re-learn how to idle after the battery has been disconnected. It also takes a bit more cranking to get it to fire up that first time. I've been told that key on/engine off and slowly pressing the throttle to the floor, then releasing, will help it re-learn the throttle body quicker, but I've never noticed a difference in how it drives when I do that. Seems like zero difference in how long it takes to start too, so I don't bother. It's not like I disconnect the battery or reset the ECU often. If anything, it's a bit more bitchy than stuff I've owned with a proper throttle body and IACV. It seems to figure the idle out in about 30 seconds though. It gets a hunting idle if the throttle body is remotely dirty too, cleaning the throttle body is basically an every 30k job.
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Sep 25, 2016 04:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:Closer to 50, so, yeah. I've been in proper snow / temperatures well below freezing maybe twice in my life. Give me 110 any day. I mean... I grew up in the desert too (El Paso - so not quite as hot as where you're at, but still desert), but if Any idea what was in that Sonoma aside from a 5.3?
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Jan 23, 2017 09:35
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5 heat ranges? How bad was that thing pinging?
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Feb 14, 2017 02:08
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To be fair, Honda air filter housings have always been a pain in the dick.
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Feb 14, 2017 16:12
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That had to make a fun noise. So uh, how'd you get the Jeep home?
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Nov 6, 2017 23:45
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Those grounds, and that temp sending unit, are making my eye twitch... badly. The fuel line being that close to the header is just a whole other level of
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Dec 31, 2017 09:30
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Thermostat not opening fully, fan clutch (if it uses one), radiator, and water pump (specifically, rusted impellers that are slowly returning to the My old car would do almost exactly the same when the thermostat was essentially stuck halfway open (along with taking a long time to warm up on cold days). It could almost close all the way, but the gasket that normally sealed the thermostat itself (not the one for the housing) had gotten bunched up in both the spring and between the plate/body. It couldn't get more than halfway open.
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Jul 30, 2018 05:48
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Wouldn't hurt to look at the thermostat again to make sure it's opening fully, but beyond that I got nothin..
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Jul 30, 2018 07:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:(yes I randomly search VINs of cars I used to own, what of it) I looked up my old Integra awhile back, through one of those sketchy guys selling Carfax reports for a few bucks on eBay. Last entry was "front end collision, towed" several years ago. Googling the VIN went nowhere - I figured I would have turned up an auction or something, but nope, nothing ever came up anywhere after that. Guessing it's either sitting in someone's backyard, or in Mexico. Too bad, it was pretty clean, and had a fresh engine in it. My Altima? Some poor bastard bought it from a sketchy buy here pay here lot 5 months after I traded it in. If I still knew the VIN, I'd look it up again, but I doubt it lasted more than a year - AC compressor was failing, the timing chain was trying to chew through the timing cover, and it somehow had an external head gasket leak (coolant would drip from between the block and head on #4). I keep looking up my old Ion, but it disappeared from Pick n Pull's inventory less than a week after it hit the yard (but the direct VIN link still works). I'm assuming they moved it to the builder lot, but I'd expect to see a registration event or auction pop up with it. If I was still local, I'd go see if it's actually there, but even if it is, I doubt there's much recognizable left of it. 8ender posted:Someone from Newfoundland who moved local bought my 97' Escort wagon, with 275k on the clock, and I keep seeing it around. A long time ago, I knew someone with an 80s Escort. All I remember is it was one of the early EFI ones, had a 5 speed, odometer stopped at 399,999 miles, and it had so little compression that neither 1st or reverse would hold it on even a slight incline (also parking brake didn't work, but it was Dallas, so no real hills to speak of). They're cockroaches. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:04 on Aug 11, 2018 |
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Aug 11, 2018 09:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:had to enlist the wife to get a nut started on the top while I shoved it up from the bottom. I mean, isn't this married life in general once you're a year+ into the relationship? I really need to do suspension on Saturd #2. The rear has droopy rear end (coupled with dog-in-heat bouncy rear end), but uses regular shocks with a separate coil spring. I THINK the shock may be all that's preventing the spring from taking out an eye (or a cinderblock wall), though. I need to ask a friend with access to Alldata. I don't want to learn the hard way with it on the lift right when I finally break a bolt free. The fronts are a typical strut inside a spring, and it's easy enough to find a quickstrut. I don't plan to have this car for more than a year, I just need it to drive a bit better (and maybe eliminate all of the clunks/rattles/bangs/pops/concerning noises that the stereo can't drown out). I have access to a lift and air tools for $25/hr on weekdays, so anything I can't do at home can be done there (so long as I can drive the car to/from the shop - ~20 minutes each way). From what I've been able to dig up, you don't even have to separate the ball joints to swap the strut/spring assembly, which is pretty nice. But I'd gladly take Honda build quality right now; even my beater Hondas didn't nickle and dime me like this car is. IIRC all of my Hondas tended to eat the inboard pads faster. No clue why, but I owned 6 of them. They all did it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Sep 17, 2018 |
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Sep 17, 2018 08:38
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Raluek posted:Sounds like a deal. Aren't all the 4-bolt throttle bodies DBW, or was there some transition period? I can't speak for the V8s, but at least on the Ecotecs, there was a transition period. Those were all 4 bolt AFAIK, but the first few years were cable operated. Annoyingly, the bolts are moved to different places for different size throttle bodies, so you can't cheat and get a little extra airflow by simply bolting on a TB from a different engine (there's supposedly adapter plates...). IOwnCalculus posted:I believe all of the factory ones are, but there's no shortage of aftermarket ones out there. The one I got even still has the clean pcv inlet air port that newer factory TBs eliminate. Also speaking for the earlier Ecotecs, the PCV port was moved to the silencer directly above the throttle body.  Makes a mess of the throttle body if you don't pull the silencer and clean the TB occasionally (and it gets downright bitchy about idling when it's cold if the TB is gunked up).
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Dec 31, 2018 08:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:Of course my wife takes it for a short drive (literally in the neighborhood) and it comes back and spits some coolant. Not sure where from yet though. Wasn't even remotely hot, but it was low yesterday so I wonder if there's a leak somewhere that is now being discovered. I mean, it's a 4.0, coolant is optional anyway.
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Apr 16, 2019 06:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:Anyone have any idea where to dig this thing out? Pull the lower dash panel and look for the vampire taps, scotch locks, and half a roll of tape?
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Apr 22, 2019 04:20
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If only soft 8s were made for 4 lug...
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Apr 30, 2019 07:32
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So how do you think Diamond Soft 8 knockoffs would look on a Saturn?
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Apr 30, 2019 07:48
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8ender posted:I had an old $15 "JobMate" drill that I decided would handle mixing thinset and it started releasing a lot of magic smoke after about five minutes. I let it cool down and figured that was the end of it but it kept on going. It's still going to this day. It smells like hot whenever I use it. It crushes through joists, thinset, and Subaru balljoints. Nothing can stop it. When our sun explodes it will be cast into the void and retrieved by a civilization that will recognize it as the tool that cannot be broken. My Ryobi cordless impact has been letting a small amount of smoke and sparks out since day one, and reeks of ozone every time I use it. Oddly, it shoots the big sparks when I let my finger OFF the trigger (otherwise it looks like any other brush motor, visible sparks through the vents but nothing actually coming out of the vents until I let off, but still gives off the ozone smell). I guess maybe it has an electric brake? I figured it was just brushes that weren't broken in, but 6 months later, and it's still doing it. Hasn't gotten any worse or better, it works fine, just don't use it around anything that can go boom. I should probably try to warranty it before the warranty runs out.It was $100 with a 4aH battery and charger, best price I'd seen on a 1/2" cordless impact. Harbor Freight has a low end impact with similar specs for $130 now, if Ryobi won't warranty this then I'll jump to that. I don't have any other cordless tools yet, but I do like that I can go to a pawn shop and get any Ryobi cordless tool and use any Ryobi battery on it (and also with my charger), regardless of battery chemistry. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:47 on May 7, 2019 |
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May 7, 2019 06:45
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And no aftermarket light manufacturer ever has put DOT stamps on something without it actually being approved. 
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Jun 25, 2019 09:32
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Didn't you or your wife have one of these at one point?
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Jun 28, 2019 14:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:The weather is finally starting to cool off I hate you. Austin just broke the record for the hottest September ever. Heat indexes still close to 110, 15 days over 100 this month.  I know Phoenix is (much) hotter overall, but most of Texas has usually had at least one or two cold fronts roll through by now.
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Sep 24, 2019 15:56
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I'm sure he'd prefer it if it's a bent tie rod instead of the rack..
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Nov 12, 2019 07:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:lovely rebuild from Autozone  BREAKING NEWS AUTOZONE REMANS AREN'T LIKE NEW
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Apr 19, 2020 19:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:The only downside? Jeep apparently got lazy on their upshift light logic. Where every other car I've driven with a shift light has had a switch that disables it in fifth gear, the Jeep doesn't. So now when steady-state cruising at highway speeds in fifth, the Jeep is telling me to shift up to the sixth gear I don't have. I've already had the cluster out before and I know mine is the later version without a socketed bulb for that light, so I guess I'm gonna have to desolder that fucker. Random, but related. Both Saturns turned off the upshift light in 5th, but it still worked in.... reverse. So doing reverse FWD donuts in snow/ice/whatever resulted in an angry upshift light. Yes, it was a soldered LED. I hated that loving light. If you followed its advice, you wound up lugging the poo poo out of the engine constantly. It would tell you to upshift at 1k sometimes. kastein posted:Whoever has been working on your Jeep - between the fuel tank fuckery and the track bar mount - really should not have been. 95% of CJ/TJ/Cherokee owners right here. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jul 5, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2020 18:53
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On the P0442, you've already tried a new gas cap, right?
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Nov 9, 2020 15:10
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Gotta love what heat does to vacuum hoses! I spent a couple of years chasing random evap codes on my mom's last car - all of the hoses involved were rock hard, and under the engine cover (everything outside of the cover was almost like new). Finally got it to where it wouldn't pop the evap code until it ran that particular readiness monitor, which was always the last to set (TX allows one not ready), but never did find the remainder of the leak(s). Easy enough to keep most cars from running it, don't let them get below 3/4 of a tank. I did banish the CEL for about a year at one point, but a smoke machine would have been a big help. I still wouldn't rule out the gas cap until you've smoked the whole system - you put it under pressure, when the evap test puts it under vacuum. That fuel pump relay is an odd one - does it turn on the CEL by itself? I know my Nissan always had a knock sensor code, but it never turned on the light.
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Nov 9, 2020 17:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:I have a new garage to fill up with stuff! Goddamn, that is a proper garage right there. Lots of cabinet space, workbench space, deep as hell, looks like a 240V outlet, and some T8 8 ft fixtures begging for LED retrofits? And what looks like a brand new water heater on top of all of that.  The only thing I see missing is copious amounts of 120V outlets on the workbench, but I'm the one running everything off of the garage door opener outlet in my garage.Can't say I've ever seen expansion joints in a garage floor before - is that an AZ thing, or something the original occupants of the house went with for ~reasons~? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:46 on Mar 23, 2021 |
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Mar 23, 2021 13:42
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:25 |
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FWIW, depending on the PCM charging logic (if the alternator is controlled by the PCM instead of a stand-alone VRM), you may see the voltage go back up once you have a healthy battery in it. Also, a shorted cell (not quite sure how an Optima would work in this case) would draw the voltage down. Particularly if it's a lower amperage alternator. When the Vic's battery was on its last legs, I was seeing 13.1-13.3. With a new battery, it's a solid 14.4 again. That's with a 200 amp alternator that puts out almost 100 amps at idle. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Aug 28, 2022 |
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Aug 28, 2022 00:09
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