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That's part of what's driving me mad, the amount is so small (and gets distributed so quickly) that it's hard to tell what it actually is. Doesn't help that this thing gets driven so rarely, so all of the fluids are still clean.
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Nov 24, 2015 03:06
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I think I figured it out, and I'm kicking myself a bit because I could've saved a lot of work. I crawled underneath earlier tonight to see if I was crazy and if there was any oil coming off. I didn't see any, but I did notice that the coolant (now everywhere) is slightly uv reactive. I was sitting later and remembered that, and decided to check the water pump. Sure enough, there's a telltale of dried coolant at the base of the thermostat... which sits directly over the ribbed side of the belt as it comes down from the compressor and tensioner.
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Nov 24, 2015 06:01
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This is off-topic, but what did you do to block off the EGR on the intake manifold? Doesn't look like the usual aluminum plate with o-ring that I see people with. I'm trying to think of a solution that's cheaper than a fancypants $30 piece of machined aluminum, and less lovely than a piece of scrap metal and a big glob of RTV.
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Nov 24, 2015 06:05
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Expanding rubber plug. Glamorous it is not, but it works. Eventually I want to re-solve that problem with a LS6 intake manifold.
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Nov 24, 2015 06:42
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IOwnCalculus posted:Expanding rubber plug. Glamorous it is not, but it works. Eventually I want to re-solve that problem with a LS6 intake manifold. Ah, yeah. Inelegant, but I guess it's been working for you. Last I looked, LS6 manifolds were still pretty expensive, has that changed? Didn't seem like a good bang-for-buck option.
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Nov 24, 2015 08:17
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Didn't the later LS1s just come with LS6 intakes from the factory? Thought I read that somewhere. I don't know what the scrapyards are like out there on Tatooine, but LSes are few and far between up here.
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Nov 24, 2015 15:17
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Yeah, LS6 intakes are still spendy, but I don't necessarily want to do a throttle body or heads to go with a LS2 or LS3 intake instead. Last I checked it was also still a lot cheaper than a FAST. '01-up LS1s did get the LS6 intake as well, and they also got a revised cam that allowed them to drop EGR. It also makes the relative gain from a cam bigger on those engines. You could also try to find a Corvette specific early LS1 intake, they never had EGR if I remember correctly.
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Nov 24, 2015 16:43
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You could always just make a blockoff plate yourself, 1/8" aluminum is cheap and really really easy to work with if you have a basic homeowner drill press and a couple files. And you can hide a lot of scratches and scribe marks and filing mistakes with a swanky "brushed aluminum" finish (i.e. wirewheel the bastard until all your sins are forgiven.)
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Nov 24, 2015 17:14
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That's how we made the upper mounts for my fan shroud, minus one drill press. Wirewheeling is amazing!
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Nov 24, 2015 17:24
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kastein posted:You could always just make a blockoff plate yourself, 1/8" aluminum is cheap and really really easy to work with if you have a basic homeowner drill press and a couple files. And you can hide a lot of scratches and scribe marks and filing mistakes with a swanky "brushed aluminum" finish (i.e. wirewheel the bastard until all your sins are forgiven.) Yeah, this is what I'm thinking. I don't have a way to machine an O-ring groove into the bottom of it, so I'm probably just going to try to seal the plate on with RTV, or maybe just put a sheet of gasket rubber on the bottom of the plate.
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Nov 25, 2015 00:41
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Reassembled and starting on what is sure to be a long bleed of the cooling system. I can now add 1994 Cadillac 4.9 and 1960 C20 to the long list of other applications I have used parts from, thanks to that new upper radiator hose setup.
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Nov 25, 2015 01:32
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Two inches makes a surprising difference, even just puttering around the neighborhood. Both right-side shocks were trashed which wasn't helping either.
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Dec 9, 2015 07:50
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I'd bet it's sitting a smidge higher than 2 inches, mine has settled quite a bit from where they were just after I put the coils and shocks on. Looks very nice though, JK wheels always look boss on our Jeeps.
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Dec 9, 2015 08:34
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I think it has settled a teeny bit but not much - which makes sense, I didn't even replace the isolators and did my best to line them back up as close as possible. Now the loving thing thinks it needs to mark its territory. Pulling into the driveway in the Honda, the headlights caught a glimpse of the rear diff, which looked awfully wet. Poked my head under and found this:   OReilly's National 4370N lasted right about 14 months. Free warranty replacement, but it did lose enough magic NV247 fluid that I didn't have enough left in my partial bottle to refill it. Missed out on a run this morning as a result. Snagged 2.25 quarts on Craigslist for $15 and topped it off in five minutes. Of course then I notice that the loving lower radiator hose is leaking. Still haven't put the new upper on, just PMed my dealer hookup for the lower hose too. I snagged a box of 10 of those Constant-Torque clamps on Amazon Warehouse deals for half price and it looks like they'll be barely big enough to handle the lower hose as well.
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Dec 28, 2015 00:13
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Replaced the upper and lower hoses with new OEM parts, they definitely fit much better. However, I'm not having much better luck with the Constant-Torque clamps, I've had to retighten them twice now. I also might need to do something to seal off the goddamn petcock. I swear it's like this GOD drat COOLING SYSTEM was designed by BMW.  And just to piss me off, the Jeep threw P0171 and P0174 codes. Five minutes of poking around the engine bay and I realized that this vacuum line assembly was cracked and dryrotted to hell. It came out like this, with seeping oil from every joint and a giant split in the passenger-side elbow:  It should look like this: 
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Jan 25, 2016 05:37
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Replaced that vacuum line, wasn't too bad of a job to do. P0171 hasn't come back, but it still has P0174 in some weird set-but-not-set state. It doesn't turn on the check engine light (the light still comes on during startup so I know it's not burnt out from overuse  ) but if you do the key cycle or pull codes with a scanner, P0174 is still there even though I've cleared it at least twice. I have two new O2 sensors waiting for me to get some time to put them in since they were dirt cheap (Denso) and I suspect the ones on it are Autozone parts.I ended up with some unexpected free time tonight, and the weather is loving perfect:  So I said gently caress it and did a thing:   I did the rear one ages ago, finally put on the front stainless lines. I need to decide how to orient the caliper ends to avoid putting too much stress on the line while also keeping it clear of the coils lock-to-lock, and then I need to bleed it. Time to start making progress again, even if it's a tiny step at a time.
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Feb 16, 2016 05:00
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I'm betting P0174 is in pending mode - the ECU suspects something is fucky, but doesn't have enough cycles/evidence yet to know for sure, so it's got it flagged but it isn't yet tripping the CEL/failing that monitor. If you look closely you may see an indication that it's in pending mode, the little orange code readers you can buy for way too much at the parts store usually have a "PD" legend in the corner of the LCD that comes on for pending codes and some other readers have other ways of indicating it. I'm not sure what Torque does to show a pending code, as I haven't used it yet.
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Feb 17, 2016 16:19
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Torque will pull the code and label it pending. That's what it did on my BMW, anyway.
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Feb 17, 2016 17:28
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P0174 seems to have gone away for good, though the battery dying while I was gone for a week will certainly help that. Definitely takes a while for the transmission to relearn things. Oh, and there seems to be something hosed electrically with the A/C clutch control circuit. Spent an hour diagnosing it last night, got nowhere, and then this morning it worked. No progress on the C10 and holy hell it's been a month on jack stands. Need to fix that. New tires and new brakes on the CRV. Only ruined two of the screws that hold the rotors on!
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Mar 20, 2016 23:06
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I have had a 100% non-productive summer of working on cars, which is not helped by the fact that I've had to spend the last three weeks hobbling around in a boot after a 1/10 touring car broke my toe. Tonight was the first non oil change I've done since March, and all I did was remove / replace the WJ driver's side rear door window regulator again. At least that's the one that I bought from OReilly, so it's got a lifetime warranty on it. Doesn't exactly give me high hopes for the other three Dorman regulators in the Jeep, though.
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Jul 10, 2016 08:31
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How's your luck on keeping the chintzy door clips from breaking? I've got 3 bags lying in wait for a speaker install.
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Jul 15, 2016 07:49
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Surprisingly decent, but I did go ahead and buy a whole bag of 'em on Amazon just in case. When I did the regulators initially, I probably broke at least 1/3 if not 1/2 of them, but pulling the panel back off this time none of the remaining originals broke.
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Jul 15, 2016 07:58
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Any chance You have the Amazon link handy. My wj is in need of a few door clips . more then a few the drivers door is only held on by maybe two or four.
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Jul 15, 2016 23:39
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CWY58/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They say '03-up but as far as I know they work fine in all WJs.
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Jul 16, 2016 00:10
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Are they a really bright yellow or that sort of faded color?
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Jul 16, 2016 01:21
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I thought mine were bright yellow when I bought them but they've kinda faded a bit while sitting in my garage.
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Jul 16, 2016 03:11
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Water heater made me do poo poo. I thought I was just replacing the elements and thermostats today, but as soon as I pulled that lower cover and saw that mess of rust, I changed my approach to "call someone to replace the fucker". At least I don't feel quite as bad about having to tear my entire garage apart to get at it. It's also 17 years old, original one in this house. Of course, my truck has been sitting since loving February, so I finally figured out the right way to run those brake lines. I had the AN-banjo fittings flipped with the wrong side facing the caliper, so it was making the hose go in all sorts of wonky ways, including interfering with the coil spring. Flipped it and now it's clear. Of course, I was in a rush to try and beat both the summer heat and my mom dropping my daughter back off, so I spent exactly zero time bleeding (or even verifying the fluid in the master) and it has no brakes right now. Got it backed out, ripped the garage apart, got to the photo above. I've got new pads, rotors, and TPMS sensors lined up to go on the WJ.
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Aug 14, 2016 06:08
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Water heater got replaced and I'm back to the first world. WJ's front passenger seat mechanism broke the same night I broke my toe, so I've had the part laying around forever. Pretty easy job but drat that Milwaukee 3/8 impact makes everything go faster. And yes, I vacuumed it before I put the seat back.
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Aug 18, 2016 04:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:Water heater got replaced and I'm back to the first world. When I pulled the seats in my wife's wj it was a million times more dirty then that. I didn't know they made the 3/8 in the small version like that. How's the battery life for it? I need to replace my aging makita 1/4 impact. Also need to fix the droviers seat in my wj for similar reasons.
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Aug 18, 2016 16:22
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I have a couple of M12 compact batteries, which depending on the job, switch between my 3/8 Fuel impact, my 1/4 hex screwdriver, my 3/8 ratchet, and the oscillating multi tool. The only one of those I've ever run down anything near quickly is the multi tool, when cutting a lot of drywall and wood. Plus side is the batteries recharge quickly so even with these it's difficult to actually have two dead batteries at once. For small stuff I don't even bother charging between jobs. The charge that battery is on now has removed and reinstalled 24 lug nuts on my C10, and it's only now down to 1/4 battery life.
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Aug 19, 2016 07:00
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I also have the M12 multi-tool and good lord does it hunger for batteries and wood.
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Aug 22, 2016 07:01
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Today, in IOC flips off lovely electrical things: A month short of three years old and it's dead. Sits at 12.8-13V until I so much as go key on (not even starting, just PCM and fuel pump load), then it drops to 10V. 4V under crank and it baaaarely fires up. Computer forgot how to idle, too.
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Sep 23, 2016 00:48
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I think it's the trucks way of punishing you for not driving it. "See? This is what happens!"
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Sep 23, 2016 02:00
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Pretty much. I have it on the battery charger's recondition mode, let's see if it can do anything useful. Still need to bleed the brakes so that doing so much as backing it out is not a harrowing exercise. Firestone should warranty the battery no problem but they do need me to drive the truck there. I think this will be the 11th or 12th battery over 40 years!
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Sep 23, 2016 02:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:Computer forgot how to idle, too. My Ford Laser would idle like it was missing engine mounts for at least 30 seconds after I replaced the battery or reconnected the battery terminals.
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Sep 23, 2016 04:56
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Had to do the same to my 88 olds. Drive it up to freeway speeds at least once or it died at idle. Non volatile memory was expensive I guess?
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Sep 23, 2016 04:59
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It freaks me out every drat time it does this, until I remember that it takes it a couple minutes and it's going to sit there and stumble for a bit until it at least gets a basic relearn in. I need to let it sit longer to do a full relearn.
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Sep 23, 2016 05:35
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You Am I posted:My Ford Laser would idle like it was missing engine mounts for at least 30 seconds after I replaced the battery or reconnected the battery terminals. My Saturd gets a bouncing idle for about 30 seconds on the first start after the battery is disconnected. Takes a bit longer to fire up too.
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Sep 23, 2016 05:36
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Geirskogul posted:Had to do the same to my 88 olds. Drive it up to freeway speeds at least once or it died at idle. Careful what you ask for, unless you want to have to buy a 4 figure dealer scantool that can reset the computer's learned tune data (which includes the IACV running and idling positions), having it in capacitor-backed SRAM is way better for us as home mechanics. It's way nicer to not have to use a scantool to tell the ECU to forget everything, worth the occasional annoyance when replacing a battery or jumping a car, at least to me. I mean ideally there would be a specific fuse you would pull before starting the car to tell it to clear its tables, but that's not happening due to cost. I'm actually surprised Subaru spends the money to put emergency FWD-mode fuses in their automatics, that's 3 crimp terminals, a fuse, and six feet of wire they could have not spent money on.
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Sep 24, 2016 17:26
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My 98 CRV has an "ecu clear" fuse. All cars should, but don't, have one 
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Sep 24, 2016 17:39
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