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spwrozek posted:I can only imagine what my crampons would do to my floors and cabinets. The garage gym now has a kegerator with two taps active. And more holds.
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Apr 12, 2020 06:48
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gamera009 posted:The garage gym now has a kegerator with two taps active. And more holds. But how do I stay 6' away.... 
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Apr 12, 2020 06:57
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spwrozek posted:But how do I stay 6' away.... You don’t come in. This is mostly to post about how I have officially recreated the Spot in my garage now. Only I have a bigger selection of beer.
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Apr 13, 2020 02:53
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How tall is your garage gym?
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Apr 13, 2020 04:30
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Anyone else lead soloing here? I've got a RE Solist and don't feel that my system is as dialed as can be. I tie it straight with an 8mm cord thru the harness tie in points and clip the upper part to a ghetto 120cm (dbl length) sling necklace style chest harness. Feels ok but how big's the choking hazard in case of bad falls? Don't use backup knots but I should - to safeguard against upside down falls which defeat the camming action of the device if nothing else. Which ones are least hassle? Are slip knots ok? I've heard that clove hithing biners is a good and quick alternative. How to prevent back feeding? Don't wanna 'rebelay' the rope to intermediate pro as that will increase the fall factor. What about prusiking the rope and clipping the cord to the draw? Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Apr 15, 2020 |
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Apr 15, 2020 22:30
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So I recently went climbing outside near Tahoe. About ten different groups (mostly climbers, some hikers) were also in the area, scattered about, of course. Some had out of state license plates. I found that interesting. Calling Tahoe a "local" area to visit during quarantine is a huge stretch for me, but this left me with the impression that Climbing World is taking stay at home orders lightly. (This is purely observational)
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Apr 20, 2020 16:03
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There was a huge discussion about it in my local crag's Facebook group. They even put up a poll and I think it was 150 people said "It's not safe to climb outdoors right now", maybe 10 "I don't know" and 5 or so said it was OK to do it. It's about 40 minutes from Buffalo across the Canadian border, or about 2 hours outside of Toronto (maybe 80-90 minutes). I think officially the park is still Open for hiking, but closed for Climbing / not allowed to touch anything. I wouldn't be surprised if some Canadians are still climbing, but since the international border is shut down I couldn't even wager a guess  Unfortunately I suspect the international border will stay closed to tourists longer than any given US State will be on lockdown, so even when things start to relax I probably won't be able to get back outdoors any time soon. drat.
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Apr 20, 2020 18:02
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So I wandered off to a formation near a trailhead about 5 minutes from my house. It always looked like choss so I never gave it a second look until today, since there’s an obvious and easy class 3 route on it that would scratch the itch. Imagine my surprise when I whip around to the side away from the road and found 4 sport lines. They ain’t great, but including the approach they’re about 6 minutes from my house and not on the proj. Discussion with my partner leads us to believe the routes have been put up in the last 18 months or so. Gonna hit it after work on Wednesday.
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Apr 20, 2020 18:42
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Personally don't see much problem with bouldering outdoors in areas that allow for easy social distancing/are not packed with people unless the area says you can't. Sure you're touching rocks that someone else may have touched the day before/a few hours ago and said rock could potentially have live virus on it, but it's not really hard to not touch your face with your chalky hands + wash them if you need to touch your stuff for some reason. Well known spots where a lot of people would gather are obviously off limit though. I guess it depends how popular outdoor climbing is in your area. Sport climbing is probably off limit though since you have equipment that you need to share with someone and everything. I don't know exactly how it is in the US, but here in Canada stay at home does not mean total lock down. It's just keep 2 meters away from anyone, don't go to crowded place, grocery shop once a week, etc. People are encouraged to go for walks, go in the woods, jog, etc.
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Apr 20, 2020 19:25
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KingColliwog posted:Personally don't see much problem with bouldering outdoors in areas that allow for easy social distancing/are not packed with people unless the area says you can't. Sure you're touching rocks that someone else may have touched the day before/a few hours ago and said rock could potentially have live virus on it, but it's not really hard to not touch your face with your chalky hands + wash them if you need to touch your stuff for some reason. Well known spots where a lot of people would gather are obviously off limit though. I guess it depends how popular outdoor climbing is in your area. The problem is the collective action part of it. Yes, one person going bouldering or two people going sport climbing all by themselves is probably not going to be an issue. The whole reason it's not an issue though is because everyone else is staying home. If climbing areas are packed shoulder to shoulder, it is going to be an issue. So even though one person all by themselves isn't the problem, we all have to take part. It's like pollution or trash or any other collective action problem. If I waste energy and emit as much carbon as I want to, I will have basically zero impact on climate change. Does that mean it's okay for me to do it? Of course not, because if everyone did it then there would be climate change, and that's just what's happening. So even though I myself am not making an impact on climate change, I still need to change my behavior, because we all do. Same thing for spreading a virus. Yes, one person going out is not going to make a difference. A lot of people going out will make a difference. So we all have to not go out. It would be exceedingly selfish to think that everyone else should have to stay home while I should still get to go out and do whatever I want.
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Apr 20, 2020 19:48
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KingColliwog posted:but it's not really hard to not touch your face with your chalky hands + wash them if you need to touch your stuff for some reason. When I climb I look like I am either eating powdered donuts or snorting cocaine. Granted this is mostly when lead climbing. It is kind of a mixed bag on what you can do in the states and varies a lot by location. In Colorado a lot of trailheads are closed because your have just a ton of people. I am sure I could go backcountry skiing right now but the whole endeavor would be a giant pain. So I am just mountain biking the streets of Denver for now.
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Apr 20, 2020 19:51
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What I really want to know is who is going to go to a climbing gym anytime soon.
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Apr 20, 2020 19:57
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gohuskies posted:The problem is the collective action part of it. Yes, one person going bouldering or two people going sport climbing all by themselves is probably not going to be an issue. The whole reason it's not an issue though is because everyone else is staying home. If climbing areas are packed shoulder to shoulder, it is going to be an issue. So even though one person all by themselves isn't the problem, we all have to take part. That's why I said it depends on your area and if it's possible to practice social distancing. I don't know how things are in your area, but around here bouldering is extremely niche and outdoor spots are pretty much empty even when there's no pandemic. Popular spots should be avoided of course, but I'm probably not the only one that live somewhere where you can find some outdoor bouldering areas that are barely ever used. spwrozek posted:When I climb I look like I am either eating powdered donuts or snorting cocaine. Granted this is mostly when lead climbing. Yeah I'm talking of bouldering, I don't think lead would be ok. spwrozek posted:What I really want to know is who is going to go to a climbing gym anytime soon. I'd probably be ok going to the bouldering gym when the authorities judge that they can be reopened (which is probably a few months down the road) since when this happens I'll probably already be teaching, my girlfriend works in healthcare and my three sons will be in daycare. When that's going to be my reality, I doubt bouldering in a gym will be how I get it. Unless it mutates by then and the context is different. But if it does they won't open gyms so there's that. I really trust my gov to be making the right decision basically. It has been doing pretty good up to now KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Apr 20, 2020 |
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Apr 20, 2020 20:05
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KingColliwog posted:Personally don't see much problem with bouldering outdoors in areas that allow for easy social distancing/are not packed with people unless the area says you can't. Sure you're touching rocks that someone else may have touched the day before/a few hours ago and said rock could potentially have live virus on it, but it's not really hard to not touch your face with your chalky hands + wash them if you need to touch your stuff for some reason. Well known spots where a lot of people would gather are obviously off limit though. I guess it depends how popular outdoor climbing is in your area. Nah, forget social distancing. The reason climbing right now is a bad idea is because it's a high-risk activity, and if you get hurt you'll be putting unnecessary strain on healthcare workers.
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Apr 20, 2020 20:07
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enraged_camel posted:Nah, forget social distancing. The reason climbing right now is a bad idea is because it's a high-risk activity, and if you get hurt you'll be putting unnecessary strain on healthcare workers. That's a good argument, I can get behind that one. I would probably still feel ok doing traverses and low easier boulders though. Not that I have any time to go anyway since I'm taking care of my 3 kids alone all day everyday KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Apr 20, 2020 |
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Apr 20, 2020 20:10
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I found this to be a thoughtful and balanced piece on climbing during Covid https://eveningsends.com/pretending-not-to-climb/
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Apr 20, 2020 20:21
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spwrozek posted:What I really want to know is who is going to go to a climbing gym anytime soon. They'll just becoming aid climbing gyms. Jumar yourself up fixed lines then rap down.
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Apr 20, 2020 20:25
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spwrozek posted:What I really want to know is who is going to go to a climbing gym anytime soon. I'm certainly going back the instant my gym re-opens because I already recovered from covid, and with the infection rates we're seeing I have to imagine a lot of other people are in that category as well.
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Apr 20, 2020 20:51
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Good thoughts for sure. I am pretty sure we already had it as well. If you listen to "the runout" podcast the episode 2 back was about gyms and how a lot are going to be in trouble if they have to be closed for a long time (even if that is until the end of May).
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Apr 20, 2020 20:56
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Definitely don't assume that you have already had it, less you become an unwitting vector and spread it to others (along with actually catching it yourself). It only takes 10 "jumps" for one person to infect 9,000 others.
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Apr 21, 2020 01:22
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enraged_camel posted:Definitely don't assume that you have already had it, less you become an unwitting vector and spread it to others (along with actually catching it yourself). It only takes 10 "jumps" for one person to infect 9,000 others. I am not changing anything I am doing and it is not like you can get tested. Still hanging at home, wearing a mask when I have to go out, etc. Based on the symptoms it could have been something else but the shortness of breath was the odd one for me. I will not be going back to work until June I am guessing.
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Apr 21, 2020 05:28
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I'll be stuck with a hangboard (BM 1k) for a week and am looking for some core/endurance workouts to perform on my rest days when not max hanging. I've seen people use a kick board and move hands around to get a good workout, but my board is mounted over a doorframe so I lack access to a kick board. I was thinking of putting my heels on a chair and go to work. Anyone seen a structured program I could use? Here's Pete Whittaker doing somthing similar: https://www.instagram.com/p/B_VXwcxpUJY/ I've also seen people do kinda assisted front levers with a rubber band connected to a hang board or pullup bar. Got rubber bands but I'm not sure how the best set up would look like though. Screw in a hook in the bottom of the hang board, connect a 'biner to it and then the band through the biner? Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 22:46
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enraged_camel posted:Nah, forget social distancing. The reason climbing right now is a bad idea is because it's a high-risk activity, and if you get hurt you'll be putting unnecessary strain on healthcare workers. Rock Climbing 2020: Where there’s a wall, stay away
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Apr 25, 2020 23:47
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Baronash posted:Rock Climbing 2020: Where there’s a wall, stay away I am the person who proposed "where there's a wall, there's a way" and I endorse this message.
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Apr 26, 2020 02:01
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enraged_camel posted:Nah, forget social distancing. The reason climbing right now is a bad idea is because it's a high-risk activity, and if you get hurt you'll be putting unnecessary strain on healthcare workers. Oh come on, sport climbing is not high risk.
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Apr 27, 2020 20:02
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So I have this clothing line in my backyard that the previous owner installed: The poles have a concrete base:  They are hollow, and have these anchors built in:  I'd like to turn this into a climbing exercise... thing. Looking for ideas. (Don't say "slack line" because I hate slack lines!)
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Apr 29, 2020 00:14
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Get a huge board to span between the two poles and have the longest overhang
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Apr 29, 2020 00:16
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A slackline would rip those anchors right out anyway.
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Apr 29, 2020 00:19
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That thing is begging to be a crack machine.
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Apr 30, 2020 03:35
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Can't wait for all the flappers I'm gonna get once I'm climbing again
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Apr 30, 2020 15:34
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How is everyone maintaining their fitness? This is how I will be getting my hangs in. There is almost zero chance anyone has had contact with that 10ft+ high pipe my cordelette is wrapped around. Doing 3 sets of 3x10 sec hangs so far, I think the design of the blocks makes it possible for them to get off-level, but I'll just readjust accordinly
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May 4, 2020 03:14
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I bought a Trango Rock Prodigy a few weeks ago and started doing hangboard work 1-2x week. After two weeks of relative consistency - along with some their weights and cardio work - I already feel a bit of a difference.
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May 4, 2020 03:20
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I did some ab workouts today.
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May 4, 2020 03:28
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I’ve been hanging off a beam in the basement. Also, don’t tell anyone but I’ve been going outside occasionally with my girlfriend. Just weekday afternoon trips and the crags here in Spokane are not busy.
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May 4, 2020 06:01
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I’ve been doing a hangboard workout about 3x per week. Mostly just doing a “density hangs” protocol per Tyler Nelson, very low intensity just aimed at keeping my tendons primed, 3 sets of 3 grips per workout. Also gives a mild aerobic pump feeling so probably has some minor endurance retention benefit. Then about once every 4th or 5th workout I’ll do a max hangs session per Lattice. During my warmup and in between hangboard sets I do a variety of active stretches, large variety of bodyweight core exercises and the occasional strength exercise with weight. Also just got a new pair of running shoes, which will be important for counteracting quarantine beer intake. From start to finish I can be done in an hour. Who knows how effective this is, but it feels like I’m at least not totally losing all climbing fitness. And I’m expecting baby no. 2 in about a month, so something easy and quick is key. On the upside, I may be building a moonboard in my backyard, which would make this all moot.
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May 4, 2020 06:32
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As a renter I don't really have a way to mount a hangboard, nowhere to build my own wall etc so I've just been focusing on general fitness. Running, yoga, and as many different body weight exercises I can find. I'm down over 10 pounds this year, so when gyms eventually open up again I think that will help me even if I've lost a lot of climbing muscle.
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May 4, 2020 10:52
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I lead solo in the beginning and started climbing with friends after a few weeks. Stayed indoors once I caught covid and started hitting the climbing gym when I had recovered. We don't really do lockdowns here in Sweden 
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May 4, 2020 13:45
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Sab669 posted:As a renter I don't really have a way to mount a hangboard, nowhere to build my own wall etc so I've just been focusing on general fitness. You can probably put a hangboard in a closet. --- I've been hangboarding 3x a week and doing a basic ring routine 3x a week
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May 4, 2020 15:54
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I've been hangboarding and doing some random body weight stuff along with occasional walks and bike rides outside. I've been mostly working on one-arm half crimp on a 30mm edge. I've managed to go from being unable to pull off the ground to being able to get off the ground. I've also been doing some density hangs and have noticed improments there as well.
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May 4, 2020 23:40
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As a follow up, what I've been focusing on more than anything with my density and max hangs is keeping perfect form with a half crimp grip. I've always been guilty of chasing numbers too much and being too tolerant of form failures when half crimping so that I could add more weight. It's amazing with the low intensity density hangs in particular how much I can focus on keeping my index and pinky finger at a true half crimp angle instead of dropping into a "chisel" grip, and how weak the true half crimp position feels. Not sure this will be any big breakthrough, but crimping has always been a weakness of mine so hoping that this will help give me a better foundation of tendon strength to build on. And a great reminder about the importance of prioritizing proper form over gainz.
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May 5, 2020 05:19
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