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Suicide Watch posted:goddammit I decked today. Was rapping down with an assisted belay device after setting up a TR and reascended the line momentarily to free my tangled rope (it was really windy and didn't fall straight down). When I was ready to descend again, I was gripping the top side instead of the brake side which didn't allow the cam to engage causing me to hit the ground albeit somewhat slowed by my grip. Got some bad rope burn and a nasty rear end bruise. Today's fuckup was rather minor: Didn't bring my headlamp 'cause we wouldn't be out late. But it being a trad crag you rapp into, things took longer than anticipated and I wanted to get one more pitch in. Friend who seconded the last pitch got stuck hanging in space underneath the crux roof. She eventually managed to climb out after some 3:1 assist shenanigans but then it was night. Nothing happened but there's no reason for me not to pack my headlamp. Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Oct 1, 2020 |
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Oct 1, 2020 21:51
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Just began my lead climbing classes. I've really started enjoying climbing even more since I started top roping. It already feels like I'm doing completely different sports everytime I switch from bouldering to top roping so it's amazing at keeping things fresh. I'm sure adding lead climbing will just make things even more amazing The hardest part for me though will be trusting my belayer for lead climbing. My current partner is kind of lunatic so I'm sort of scared, though I'm sure I'll learn to trust him since we're taking the class together, but how do you guys deal with trusting new belayers? KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Oct 3, 2020 |
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Oct 2, 2020 16:33
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KingColliwog posted:Just began my lead climbing classes. I've really started enjoying climbing even more since I started doing top roping. It already feels like I'm doing completely different sports everytime I switch from bouldering to top roping so it's amazing at keeping things fresh. I'm sure adding lead climbing will just make things even more amazing Trust can be very tough. I don't trust that many people. I pretty much only want someone using a grigri, that knows how to use one, if I don't know them well.
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Oct 2, 2020 17:17
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You guys that are back at the gym, have you found any masks that work particularly well while climbing? I started with a regular surgical mask but felt like I was inhaling cotton fibers, so I got a regular cloth mask which is a little better, but it sticks to my mouth when I inhale if Im breathing hard. Something with a good nose bridge would be awesome but I havent found anything that seems better than a cloth mask, except maybe the Adidas ones that are sold out.
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Oct 3, 2020 04:18
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Mons Hubris posted:You guys that are back at the gym, have you found any masks that work particularly well while climbing? I started with a regular surgical mask but felt like I was inhaling cotton fibers, so I got a regular cloth mask which is a little better, but it sticks to my mouth when I inhale if Im breathing hard. Something with a good nose bridge would be awesome but I havent found anything that seems better than a cloth mask, except maybe the Adidas ones that are sold out. I (and most of my friends) really like those :https://apogee-sports.com/collections/masques but unless you're in canada you're probably looking at stupidly expensive shipping. These days I get real surgical mask for work so I tend to use those for climbing since they provide a bit of protection vs a cloth mask. They can sometimes be slightly annoying, but they are perfectly fine most of the time if you take the time to adjust them properly. The apogee cloth mask certainly work better for climbing though, but I'd rather have a bit more protection than a bit more comfort.
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Oct 3, 2020 13:50
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KingColliwog posted:The hardest part for me though will be trusting my belayer for lead climbing. My current partner is kind of lunatic so I'm sort of scared, though I'm sure I'll learn to trust him since we're taking the class together, but how do you guys deal with trusting new belayers? This'll be a learning experience for both of you. Your partner learning to not be a loon, then you learning to trust them. It can be surprising how much people change though, when they accept the responsibility of belaying. Don't stand for unsafe behaviour. Lead climbing feeling like you can't trust your belayer is 0% fun. if your partner doesn't learn, look for another. Suicide Watch posted:goddammit I decked today. Was rapping down with an assisted belay device after setting up a TR and reascended the line momentarily to free my tangled rope (it was really windy and didn't fall straight down).
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Oct 3, 2020 18:39
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KingColliwog posted:Just began my lead climbing classes. I've really started enjoying climbing even more since I started top roping. It already feels like I'm doing completely different sports everytime I switch from bouldering to top roping so it's amazing at keeping things fresh. I'm sure adding lead climbing will just make things even more amazing My advice to any beginning lead climber is to practice falling, especially at the beginning of every session at the gym. My recommended exercise: Lead the first 5 bolts or so on a climb with a good fall line. Fall from the following heights, in succession, without announcing to your belayer that you're falling (they should be aware of the exercise though): -Fall while the 5th bolt is even with your face. -Fall while the 5th bolt is even with your waist -Fall while the 5th bolt is even with your knees -Fall while the 5th bolt is below your feet The other great exercise is more active for your belayer - choose a climb that you can lead relatively comfortably. At any point in the climb, past an agreed point (I'd say start with the 4th bolt and beyond), your belayer can call "Fall!" No matter what you're doing, you must stop and fall. I've had partners call this when I'm in the middle of clipping, for example - at which point I have to let go of the rope and fall. The idea is that your belayer will 100% be ready to catch you, but you will not know when you are going to fall. Most of all, feel it out and build up your head game; it's definitely a matter of building trust in your partner, the rope, the draws, and the physics at play. Also, both you and your partner should do the exercise(s).
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Oct 4, 2020 19:03
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nacon posted:My advice to any beginning lead climber is to practice falling, especially at the beginning of every session at the gym. My recommended exercise: I find both of these don't work for preparing your belayer to catch falls or make a climber comfortable with falling. If it works for people that is great.
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Oct 4, 2020 19:32
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spwrozek posted:I find both of these don't work for preparing your belayer to catch falls or make a climber comfortable with falling. If it works for people that is great. Climbing varies a lot by the individual, but I always find practicing catches/falls in a slightly more predictable/controllable environment takes some of the fear out of the equation. Falling on your own gear placements though... that's a different matter altogether!
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Oct 4, 2020 19:49
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nacon posted:My advice to any beginning lead climber is to practice falling, especially at the beginning of every session at the gym. My recommended exercise: Thanks. That's part of the plan (we'll probably try doing the "hard is easy" youtube videos thing about fear of falling) Also we have two classes left. The next one (2 hours) is supposed to be mostly falling and learning how to catch dynamically. The last one (2 hours) is mainly about falling from the first/second bolt and then practice with a coach watching/commenting.
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Oct 4, 2020 21:13
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nacon posted:My advice to any beginning lead climber is to practice falling, especially at the beginning of every session at the gym. My recommended exercise: You should check with your gym before doing this. I don't think I've gone to a single gym that allows intentional falls, which seems dumb but I assume there is some liability reason for it.
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Oct 4, 2020 22:22
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asur posted:You should check with your gym before doing this. I don't think I've gone to a single gym that allows intentional falls, which seems dumb but I assume there is some liability reason for it. That's a fair point. The gyms where I live don't prohibit it, but I assume if one was doing something egregiously stupid they'd put a stop to it.
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Oct 4, 2020 23:57
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nacon posted:That's a fair point. The gyms where I live don't prohibit it, but I assume if one was doing something egregiously stupid they'd put a stop to it. Luckily my gym encourages it. They are also super proactive and the staff will correct people if their belaying is not on point so I fel like I'm in the best environment to learn
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Oct 5, 2020 00:42
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asur posted:You should check with your gym before doing this. I don't think I've gone to a single gym that allows intentional falls, which seems dumb but I assume there is some liability reason for it. Every gym where I've attempted to get the lead climbing access at has required an unannounced lead fall as part of their lead tests
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Oct 5, 2020 06:57
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Taking a single fall for a lead test has a different effect on a rope than and whipping on a rope multiple times in rapid succession for falling practice. Also just from a numbers standpoint, there are likely to be more unsafe catches/falls if there are more lead climbers taking falls. That's probably a real business/insurance concern. Falling practice is great and everyone should do it, but I can see it being less than desirable from a business/liability perspective. I saw people starting a route at a gym in CO on half ropes, and the employees asked them to stop for (supposedly) insurance reasons. A gym is literally the best place in the world to practice climbing on half ropes, but business. Edit: To be fair, only 1 of the 5 falls in the original post could be even considered a whip.
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Oct 6, 2020 04:22
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Suicide Watch posted:Every gym where I've attempted to get the lead climbing access at has required an unannounced lead fall as part of their lead tests Doing that in a controlled environment with an instructor present is probably different from letting people do it at will as far as the gym's liability is concerned though.
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Oct 6, 2020 07:12
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Suicide Watch posted:Every gym where I've attempted to get the lead climbing access at has required an unannounced lead fall as part of their lead tests They do require that. They just don't want intentional falls outside of that specific instance. I do think practicing falling in a controlled environment is a good idea, just make sure your gym is cool with it.
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Oct 6, 2020 20:38
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The best thing for falling is to make it real. When do you just let go outside? Never should be your answer. So climb up the 5.8 for 5 bolts in the gym then hop on the 5.11 or whatever is hard for you and go for it, you will fall, and it isn't intentional (for the gym) or announced (for your head game).
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Oct 6, 2020 21:52
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What do you guys wear for Pants for climbing? I try to wear shorts most of the time, but with the colder weather coming it's usually just long johns / leggings + shorts over those. I managed to get a fairly expensive pair of pants for 50% off, described as "a soft shell slim fit pant for the guy that lives to climb" but they're definitely an inch or two too long, so I guess I just have a new pair of general outdoor use pants 
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Oct 7, 2020 00:47
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Sab669 posted:What do you guys wear for Pants for climbing? I try to wear shorts most of the time, but with the colder weather coming it's usually just long johns / leggings + shorts over those. I managed to get a fairly expensive pair of pants for 50% off, described as "a soft shell slim fit pant for the guy that lives to climb" but they're definitely an inch or two too long, so I guess I just have a new pair of general outdoor use pants Thermal under layer and a bunch of the Verve poo poo. Super comfy and stupidly easy to move in.
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Oct 7, 2020 00:52
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Prana zions, with (preferably merino) leggings underneath if it is really cold.
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Oct 7, 2020 01:51
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I used to climb in Prana Zions. They make a different one thats identical fabric but slim fit if that's your jam. I like them, and I still use them outdoors. But in the gym I just climb in whatever $5 thrift store pants are my current favorites. I'm the only guy in the gym who climbs in wide leg, flowy linen pants. gently caress the haters.
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Oct 7, 2020 01:57
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Happiness Commando posted:I used to climb in Prana Zions. They make a different one thats identical fabric but slim fit if that's your jam. I like them, and I still use them outdoors. But in the gym I just climb in whatever $5 thrift store pants are my current favorites. The slimmer one is the Brion.
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Oct 7, 2020 01:58
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I have some convertible Zions that I do love for hiking and such, but yea with the legs on I hate how loose they are around the ankles 
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Oct 7, 2020 02:25
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Seconding the Prana Zions, theyre great for climbing, hiking, whatever
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Oct 7, 2020 02:28
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I usually climb in prana brions. I agree the material is great.
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Oct 7, 2020 02:43
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Prana updated the zions recently and they are slimmer than previously. Havent worn the brions so cant compare. They are my go to outdoor climbing pant though.
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Oct 7, 2020 03:37
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I'm also a Prana Zion (or Brion not quite sure) guy, I really love them and can't see myself wearing something else now. Seem like they will last a long time too. They are pretty slim though, but they are so stretchy that it's a good thing for climbing. I also sometime wear random wide yoga kind of pants or a pair of black diamond Credo that are really not great and not super durable but I have them so I'll wear them until they are completely dead. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Oct 8, 2020 |
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Oct 7, 2020 03:48
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Sab669 posted:What do you guys wear for Pants for climbing? I try to wear shorts most of the time, but with the colder weather coming it's usually just long johns / leggings + shorts over those. I managed to get a fairly expensive pair of pants for 50% off, described as "a soft shell slim fit pant for the guy that lives to climb" but they're definitely an inch or two too long, so I guess I just have a new pair of general outdoor use pants I'll use softshell stuff for anything in the mountains where wind resistance and a bit of warmth when damp is important. Moon pants for cragging though. Gritstone is my local rock so clothes get worn out quite fast and you only wear shorts once. I turn the trouser legs up because I feel like it makes it easier to see what my feet are doing.
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Oct 8, 2020 21:22
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I just got some Brions in the latest REI sale and they are dope. Slimmer than the Zions where you won't feel like an absolute goober wearing them in public
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Oct 8, 2020 21:34
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Black diamond forged pants - idk if I have the brions but I have some prana jeans pants and the black diamond pants are immeasurably better
Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Oct 8, 2020 |
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Oct 8, 2020 22:01
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Endjinneer posted:I'll use softshell stuff for anything in the mountains where wind resistance and a bit of warmth when damp is important. Moon pants for cragging though. Gritstone is my local rock so clothes get worn out quite fast and you only wear shorts once. I turn the trouser legs up because I feel like it makes it easier to see what my feet are doing. For abrasive rock, cheap jeans are the way to go. This is what I do at the Vedauwoo.
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Oct 8, 2020 22:09
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I wonder if having grip that dies after an hour is just sort of part of life for me as a fat sack of crap, or if there is anything I can do to increase my endurance for grip other than "stop overgripping"? Today I felt real good other than some DOMS in my arms that went away after a good warmup, then I found a fun looking V3-V4 on a slightly overhanging arete with babbys first slopers and decent jugs. After 3 attempts my grip seemed totally done for the day and I struggled to keep a grip on the V0s and V1s that I had warmed up on earlier in the day.
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Oct 11, 2020 22:33
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KingColliwog posted:Just began my lead climbing classes. I've really started enjoying climbing even more since I started top roping. It already feels like I'm doing completely different sports everytime I switch from bouldering to top roping so it's amazing at keeping things fresh. I'm sure adding lead climbing will just make things even more amazing KingColliwog posted:Thanks. That's part of the plan (we'll probably try doing the "hard is easy" youtube videos thing about fear of falling) Interesting to me that your gym is multiple, multi-hour classes for Lead. My gym just has a singular 3-hour class, which I just got home from  We went over how to clip in... for some reason I'm having a hard time with left-handed bear claws. Things not to do: Z-clipping, skipping clips, back-clipping and back-stepping Belaying, soft & hard falls Then just climbed a bit and that was pretty much everything It was a lot of fun, I'm immediately enjoying it more than top rope. Although having to be very mindful of my foot placement in relation to the rope is weird; I'm so used to the absolute freedom of bouldering. The sensation of falling didn't bother me, and while I trusted my partner enough for these exercises I can see that being the scariest part IMO. Not the fall itself, just the trust. But yea, definitely fun, and WAY different than bouldering since now you need to really think not just about the climb but how to position yourself to clip in is fun. Look forward to taking the test next week.
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Oct 11, 2020 23:57
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I wonder if having grip that dies after an hour is just sort of part of life for me as a fat sack of crap, or if there is anything I can do to increase my endurance for grip other than "stop overgripping"? It sounds like you're pretty new to climbing, so you might just need to give it time for your body to adjust. Otherwise, the way you'd want to train is to find problems which are around flash level or slightly below and just climb like 15 of them with minimal rests in between (I do 3 min rests). If you're failing early on then use easier problems - the goal is to barely complete all the climbs or only start falling towards the end.
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Oct 12, 2020 01:26
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Sab669 posted:What do you guys wear for Pants for climbing? I try to wear shorts most of the time, but with the colder weather coming it's usually just long johns / leggings + shorts over those. I managed to get a fairly expensive pair of pants for 50% off, described as "a soft shell slim fit pant for the guy that lives to climb" but they're definitely an inch or two too long, so I guess I just have a new pair of general outdoor use pants https://houdinisportswear.com/en-eu/clothing/pants/ms-liquid-rock-pants-265564 Don't mind shorts when it's warm and the route doesn't warrant kneebars/-scums. Also wear those pants when hiking, bike touring and honestly most outdoor activities.
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Oct 13, 2020 17:11
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Xyven posted:It sounds like you're pretty new to climbing, so you might just need to give it time for your body to adjust. Otherwise, the way you'd want to train is to find problems which are around flash level or slightly below and just climb like 15 of them with minimal rests in between (I do 3 min rests). If you're failing early on then use easier problems - the goal is to barely complete all the climbs or only start falling towards the end. I'll give it a shot. I have a session booked during my lunch break tomorrow and the gym should be empty enough for me to easily go from problem to problem
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Oct 13, 2020 17:21
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Sab669 posted:Interesting to me that your gym is multiple, multi-hour classes for Lead. My gym just has a singular 3-hour class, which I just got home from That's very different from my class haha. First class on some theory, the motions of lead belaying, how to clip and security stuff (avoid backclip, whatever the having the rope around your leg is called in english, z clips and not putting your fingers in the carabiner) and then practiced while also on auto-belay for the last hour with the coach correcting us. Second class had more theory (explaining factor "x" falls and other things) and mostly practice with the coach correcting us. Third class was mostly about learning to take falls and how to belay them dynamically. Lot's of falling practice from different positions. We also did stuff on how to belay people of different weights and then some practice with un announced falls and practice on the big overhung wall. Fourth class was mostly about first/second quickdraw falls. We did a lot of practice with people of different weight falling while cliping the second quickdraw and you had to be able to catch them all before they touched the ground. Then some more practice on the wall. Also how to use a gri gri for lead for people who wanted to know. That last class was my favourite one. It's not something I see myself doing on my own so getting some practice and knowing I can catch someone in the "worst" situation possible and that my partner can do the same is really reassuring. It also really teaches you how much slack you want to have in the system in the first few draws and how important it is to belay actively, etc. It was also funny to see people 40 pounds lighter than me fly and almost knee me in the face while I stopped 1-2 inch from the ground. Like you said it's super interesting. Routes that I usually flash without much thoughts will sometime get me pumped because I didn't read things properly and waste so much time switching positions or thinking about which sequence will get me in the best spot to clip. Also that bit of fear that I don't get with top rope just makes things more interesting. Also belaying is active and kind of fun instead of being mindless. Xyven posted:It sounds like you're pretty new to climbing, so you might just need to give it time for your body to adjust. Otherwise, the way you'd want to train is to find problems which are around flash level or slightly below and just climb like 15 of them with minimal rests in between (I do 3 min rests). If you're failing early on then use easier problems - the goal is to barely complete all the climbs or only start falling towards the end. This. You just sound new so getting ultra pumped and forearms dying is 100% normal. If you climb regularly it'll get much better pretty fast. Doing a "specific" routine like Xyven suggest is good but you can probably just do whatever as long as you climb a "lot" and get enough volume in. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Oct 14, 2020 13:22
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Yea I thought lead belaying was actually fun. You really gotta pay attention. I mean, obviously you do be it top rope or lead, but needing to both feed & take slack just makes it a lot more engaging.
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Oct 14, 2020 13:34
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KingColliwog posted:That's very different from my class haha. I've never seen a gym in the US that would give that comprehensive of a lead class. Sounds great! I was fortunate enough that I fell in with a group of very experienced climbers the first year or so I started climbing and they taught me a ton. I've tried to pay it forward over the years since then, and have taken a number of newer climbers outdoors on sport and trad. Most US gym lead classes only cover the bare minimum to belay safely indoors though, in my experience. I know I've had to teach people about fall factor consideration when building/assessing anchors, and first/second bolt falls are pretty sketchy. Because of how little training people get here in a gym, I typically won't attempt a climb where I think I might fall that early unless I'm with one of a small handful of climbing partners that I know are excellent belayers.
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Oct 14, 2020 14:16
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