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bolind posted:I've taken my 4.5 year old bouldering three times in eight days, and we're both super stoked about it! My gym has a bouldering league with a points system. There were 3 tiers, basically v0 - v2, v3 - v5, v6+. I think it was something like 5, 10, 20 points by tier? Send was 1x points, flash was 2x points, zone (if you have those) was 0.5x points. That might be too complicated but I definitely recommend having extra points for a flash. Having to do it first try makes it way more fun.
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May 29, 2022 20:18
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 07:49 |
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I use cuticle scissors. They're smaller and made for cutting tough skin.
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Jun 26, 2022 23:47
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Ubiquitus posted:If you want to do some “light” reading, will anglin’s blog post on the tension climbing site is good Link?
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Jul 18, 2022 13:19
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I've started running and found it helps my endurance but that was because my limiting factor on lead walls was getting out of breath. This added to my stress level and made me fumble clips more often, so maybe it would help you as well, but the best way to get better at lead climbing is to do more lead climbing, tbh. Apart from endurance, running is also a good off-day activity and will help you shed excess weight so hard to recommend against it unless you have joint problems or something.
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Dec 15, 2022 21:22
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Sab669 posted:Not sure what I "should" be doing at the gym though. Figure I'll try to end sessions with laps on the auto belay but other than that I'm not sure what my weaknesses are. I would say crimps, but all 3 of my recent projects have been pretty crimpy so I have been focusing on that quite a bit. Comps are a pretty specific skillset, how's your onsighting? Rather than spending a lot of time hangboarding, I would try to see how closely you could replicate comp conditions for yourself and practice on rope as much as possible. Spend some time onsighting, either top or on lead (whichever the comp is), push your grade and see what happens. Try to push until you fall off and then analyze why you fell. 2 months isn't a lot of time for building muscle or tendon strength, but you could get a lot out of practicing specific technique and conditioning. How are you at reading beta / visualization? How's your mental game? Would you push harder if you did a lot of practice falls?
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Apr 1, 2023 23:01
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Freaquency posted:So basically get yourself a miniature hype man and watch as your projects bend to your will I had the opposite experience, I had a kid in rental shoes come up and ask if I needed beta after watching me fail the crux of a route. I said sure, why not, and turns out rental shoes kid had some pretty good tips on transitioning from the overhang to the headwall. I was able to send the route after watching him. It was hilarious, he even made a point to come back over and ask me how it went. Thanks miniature coach!
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Apr 20, 2023 12:49
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tildes posted:Is there a good super simple hangboarding routine? I seem to keep intermittently injuring my leg, so something I could do in weeks when I can’t actually climb would be great. Not really trying to go crazy with it, but at least retaining my finger strength would be nice. Dave McLeod has a follow along Youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PebF3NyEGPc
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May 30, 2023 12:57
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KingColliwog posted:is there a better feeling in the world than being much stronger than you were last season? Got a pumpy sport route with no takes that took me 3+ takes the last time I attempted it. Still need to lead it but that felt pretty great. Overall being able to go out and do a half dozen routes and still have energy left over feels like a big improvement over this same time last summer. Gorgeous weather today which was a big improvement over last weekend. Spent the afternoon working a chossy overhang during a thunderstorm because it was the only thing that was dry.
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Jul 23, 2023 00:02
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The only time I'm mad at kids at the gym is when they are running under me when I'm twelve feet up the bouldering wall with a terrible case of Elvis leg
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Jul 25, 2023 01:49
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RabidWeasel posted:It gets even worse when you get a big group just kind of loitering around watching the one guy projecting, I get that it's fun to hang out with your friends when climbing but don't fill up the entire available space right next to the wall, go stand somewhere else! Ugh this reminds me of a weird experience I had at one small tucked away corner of a crag, we were occupying 2 of 3 routes and trying not to step on each other on the small belay area. A crew of 9 college age kids shows up and we say something like "Uhh, the main wall is that way with the rest of the routes" and they were like "Oh, we're not climbers, only 2 of us climb" and they proceeded to crowd around and watch those two guys climb the remaining route. At the time I was annoyed but afterwards I was just like, "what 7 people drove all the way out to watch their buddies climb? Do they have nothing better to do?"
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Jul 25, 2023 18:36
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A Banana posted:Anything I should really consider when buying a harness? I assume mostly fit and that any legit brand should be as safe as any other. Ask if they have a hook or something you can hang from in the harness. Hanging from the harness could be fairly comfortable to extremely uncomfortable but it's hard to tell when you're just wearing it on the ground. My local outdoor shop has a big winch hook so you can see how it feels to hang.
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Jul 30, 2023 16:00
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The rule of thumb I've heard is that you can't have any leather showing if you want them to be resoled. They can't actually build the leather back up, just the rubber, so you need to identify the point where the rubber is nearly gone but not entirely.
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Aug 25, 2023 14:49
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alnilam posted:Thread poll: I don't consider it a "send". Oftentimes when I do this kind of stuff it's a very "whatever works" approach to getting draws up or building an anchor so I can work the route on toprope. I like the feeling of working a route and finally getting a clean send, but I also like to just go out with my friends and have a good time. For me it's a good way to identify projects: if I can send it on toprope with no takes or lead with a few cheaty moves, that's a good candidate to return to and work a little bit more to get the clean lead send.
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Aug 30, 2023 18:16
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I don't see any harm in at least trying it. As you said, it's a foot off the ground. If you can't do a single move it won't be worth much, but doing small sections and linking them sounds like excellent training. Rock offers infinitely more variation than plastic. Is the rock similar to the routes you want to get on? That would be the only real drawback for me, if I'm training for granite, sandstone wouldn't be as helpful.
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Sep 19, 2023 12:42
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I don't use them a lot but I personally hate the attitude he espouses. "I've never trained them so I don't like them" is something I hear a bunch of my novice / mid-level climbing friends say and to hear an "influencer" support that is annoying. In every other sport I do (skating, yoga, snow sports) it's understood that the first few (hundred) times you try a new move it's going to be difficult, feel awkward, and potentially not even work. By practicing you gain the muscle memory and fluidity to execute the move properly and gain the advantage of a broader movement vocabulary. Sure, inside flags are not a super common move. But climbing for whatever reason seems to be super behind when it comes to even basic sports knowledge. I have to roll my eyes at the guys at my gym who confidently state that they "don't need" heel hooks, flags, or other slightly more advanced moves than "grab & pull hard". On some of my warmup laps I'll play games where I try to flag every move, or drop knee every move, or heel hook as many holds as I can. It's not efficient and I usually have to downgrade at least a grade or two to make it up the route. But now I have the muscle memory and I find these moves where others don't, and can climb harder as a result. What a concept. edit: inside flagging in particular is a fun one to try to do on every move b/c if you can find a good, slightly overhung route the moves flow together gorgeously. It's a wonderful feeling. It also helps your outside edging skills which are very useful outside of flagging. vonnegutt fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Feb 8, 2024 |
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Feb 8, 2024 16:25
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 07:49 |
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M. Night Skymall posted:Poor Dave Macleod, reduced to "influencer" status. I really like his book but his video content lately has definitely been "cantankerous old timer REACTS to modern trends".
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Feb 8, 2024 17:42
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