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Cuticle scissors as said, but also nail clippers are pretty good at cutting them off really close.
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Jun 27, 2022 00:33
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vonnegutt posted:I use cuticle scissors. They're smaller and made for cutting tough skin. then sand em down after you trim em
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Jun 27, 2022 05:42
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Mezzanon posted:then sand em down after you trim em Don't forget to work your way from 120 to 600 grit, then seal with polyurethane, at least 2 coats Wait what thread am I in?
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Jun 27, 2022 06:15
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alnilam posted:Don't forget to work your way from 120 to 600 grit, then seal with polyurethane, at least 2 coats Be sure to polish with 1000 grit after its dried, thatll bump your grade guaranteed
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Jun 27, 2022 17:15
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Bought new climbing shoes! Scarpa Veloce. Somewhat softer that what I've been running so far, curious to see how they fare.
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Jul 1, 2022 10:25
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e. wrong thread
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Jul 1, 2022 17:02
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Salisbury Snape posted:e. wrong thread Now you have to go climbing, it's posting law
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Jul 1, 2022 17:25
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Scheduling to go next weekend if the weather isn't total poo poo 
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Jul 1, 2022 17:26
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No ifs, just butts.
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Jul 2, 2022 11:41
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Great day of east coast alpinism at Seneca Rocks Best 5.5 anywhere, standing has never been so exciting
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Jul 4, 2022 00:38
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I climbed there last fall and climbed that route. Looking down at about where that climber is and having so much space below you, so fun. The two days I spent climbing there were a blast. Highly recommend it to others.
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Jul 4, 2022 16:58
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:Lol yeah nevermind I'm not climbing this season basically, my knee is hosed and I randomly get intense stabbing pains in it when I do things like stand up, sit down, move around, and not move around I'm fuckin back baby! Went into the gym earlier and climbed some V0s and V1s and I'm so fat and out of shape and it feels nice to climb again anyway
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Jul 10, 2022 07:39
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Mezzanon posted:Finally made some outdoor climbing sessions for the season. Is that the big rock that the really lovely beer company named itself after?
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Jul 10, 2022 07:42
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:Is that the big rock that the really lovely beer company named itself after? Yeah. But that pic is of the small side part of it.
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Jul 10, 2022 08:18
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Just went to turtle lake and sailing hawks in Durango this past week, what a great place to climb
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Jul 10, 2022 21:29
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfLInjBDW5o&t=161s Timestamped to skip all but the last of my fails as that was an extremely frustrating fail. Felt so good to finally get it though, even if the footwork wasn't the cleanest. My first outdoor V4 
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Jul 11, 2022 13:55
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Sab669 posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfLInjBDW5o&t=161s That's pretty high so congrats on those falls and not getting scared! I'm sure the mental game was important in that top part, falling wrong would certainly suck. Pretty cool that there wasn't a top out to do because that would be loving scary. Congrats on the first V4 too, KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jul 11, 2022 |
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Jul 11, 2022 17:35
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I really only got psyched out once on my second session, after tearing open a callus just not being confident in my foot placement while going for the big throw. If you rewind past my timestamp you can see on some of the attempts I'm just hanging by the underclings for a good period of time trying to figure what to do  So it was more "Ugh I know I'm not gonna do this" than any sort of fear of falling.I went alone this weekend but there was another group at that boulder already and one of the guys was like "Props for trying that problem with only 2 pads" and let me one of theirs, but honestly it's so overhung and without much left/right movement so if & when you do fall your feet are probably going to come off first or you'll just land on your back. Pretty easy to put the pads right where you want 'em, so I was never that concerned about "safety"  But yea if I had to actually crawl up over something at the top then I would want more / have a spotter
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Jul 11, 2022 19:35
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Sab669 posted:but honestly it's so overhung and without much left/right movement so if & when you do fall your feet are probably going to come off first or you'll just land on your back. Falling straight on your back would probably suck big time haha! But yeah, pads are drat amazing and I'm always impressed by how great they do their job when falling, it's still pretty drat scary sometimes when you see those small thin pads below.
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Jul 11, 2022 21:49
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I definitely still feel fear if I'm like jumping off a cliff into a pool of water or something, but I dunno I just don't really feel it when I'm climbing I think higher risk tolerance is a "feature" of ADHD so maybe that's all it boils down to. And just gym climbing for 4 years I've learned to trust the mats there, and subsequently put that same amount of trust in my crash pads. After recovering from my finger injury earlier this year my headgame was a little shaken for the first month and a half of climbing, was having a hard time going for hard moves, but I think that's a little different as I was more concerned about reinjury than anything. Was just thumbing through sections of my guidebook I don't normally look at while trying to find a new project and came across this cute comic:  I just love the artwork for the second page
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Jul 14, 2022 16:14
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the butt detail on the fourth to last panel is just a+
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Jul 14, 2022 18:02
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Hitting this tomorrow 
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Jul 15, 2022 10:59
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Anyone have a recommendation for a hangboarding program? In 2020, I followed the one in The Rock Climber's Training Manual, but wanted to see if there was anything that might have changed since it was written. Climb V5 and lead 5.11c-d in the gym. Would probably classify myself as intermediate climber, but beginner hangboarder.
asur fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Jul 18, 2022 |
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Jul 18, 2022 00:52
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I really like the ones offered by Lattice through their Crimpd app. I just finished a personal training program through them, and I both really enjoyed the experience and noticed a significant improvement in my climbing over the 12 weeks. The app itself is partially subscription based (wait no, dont go) with their training modules (finger strength, flexibility, etc.) hidden behind a $12/mo paywall. The modules are nice though, and I appreciated that there isnt a hangboarding module per se, but instead a broader finger strength module (with multiple levels based on your experience) that includes complimentary exercises. e: Though honestly, if you had a program that you could stick to and the volume was manageable, I dont really think theres much to gain by switching things up. I dont know how much the idea of progressively loading tendons is going to change over time. Baronash fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Jul 18, 2022 |
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Jul 18, 2022 01:11
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asur posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a hangboarding program? In 2020, I followed the one in The Rock Climber's Training Manual, but wanted to see if there was anything that might have changed since it was written. Climb V5 and lead 5.11c-d in the gym. Would probably classify myself as intermediate climber, but beginner hangboarder. What are your goals?
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Jul 18, 2022 05:49
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If you want to do some light reading, will anglins blog post on the tension climbing site is good
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Jul 18, 2022 06:00
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Ubiquitus posted:If you want to do some light reading, will anglins blog post on the tension climbing site is good Link?
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Jul 18, 2022 13:19
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https://www.tensionclimbing.com/hangboarding-a-way/
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Jul 18, 2022 17:07
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Salisbury Snape posted:Hitting this tomorrow Love me a bit of Cornish granite. The Dewerstone is good if the sun is a bit much.
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Jul 18, 2022 18:35
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the takeaway for hangboarding generally is: 1.) do a max strength test first. You want to be completely rested for this, you can use the crimpd app for a full step by step on how to work up to it and do it, check their finger strength section. Youll probably need a pulley system and weights to add/remove weight. 2.) determine your goals - if you just want to get stronger finger strength for the long run or you have a training period, a good protocol is repeaters (6 sets, 3 reps of 7 seconds on 3 seconds off. Rest 1 minute between sets) at 70% of your max from step 1. Structuring the hangboarding in your weekly schedule is the tricky part, as well as deciding what the smallest edge you can reliably hold with at least some added weight. 3.) if your goal is to improve performance for upcoming climbing, you want to do max hangs. This is ideal if you have at least 1 month before your climbing - you can do anywhere from 85% max to 95% max. The protocol would be 6 sets of 1 rep, 7s per rep. 3 minutes of rest between sets. You want to be well rested for protocol listed in 3, 2 is more flexible. generally If youve been climbing for under a year, hangboarding is probably not a good use of your time. As stated lattices training plans are very good, and All of their YouTube content on hangboarding is also good. Hoopers beta is also great: https://youtu.be/Mkjmto4bymY https://youtu.be/yh-qjPU5YU0 https://youtu.be/jb9pSt6A0MU Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jul 18, 2022 |
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Jul 18, 2022 18:42
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interrodactyl posted:What are your goals? Increased finger strength over the long term for both for injury prevention and climbing more difficult problems. I've climbed for way longer than a year though I am coming off a pseudo break where I've only bouldered inconsistently for the past 6 months to a year. Ubiquitous: the book I mentioned had longer repeaters, 10 on, 5 off with a 7 different of finger positions. It was quite hard and long which is part of why I dropped it. Is this standard or does Lattice have something shorter?
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Jul 18, 2022 20:56
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Most of the Individual Lattice workouts for finger strength are between 10 and 20 minutes, compared to something like the 40+ minutes that I remember from the Rock Prodigy/RCTM plan.
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Jul 18, 2022 21:06
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asur posted:Increased finger strength over the long term for both for injury prevention and climbing more difficult problems. I've climbed for way longer than a year though I am coming off a pseudo break where I've only bouldered inconsistently for the past 6 months to a year. I've done several programs. Lattice Max Hangs (probably the easiest option to get started) 7-3 repeaters 7-53 power company repeater-strength thing Steve Bechtel's 3-6-9 Ladders They all work and are all nice depending on what you want. The most important thing to understand is that most protocols work and just doing something consistently is the what really matters. The specifics are way less important than you probably think. So my advice would be, pick one protocol, test your current max hang, do the protocol once or twice a week for something like 8-12 weeks and then test your max hang again. I'm currently mostly doing the 7-53 when finishing my warm-up and I really like it if I'm not dedicating a day to training off the wall. Had pretty nice gains doing that. It's a total of 4 to 7 sets of a single grip (so at most 7 minutes excluding the warm-up) If I'm having to train off the wall, I really like doing Steve Bechtel's integrated strength program using his 3-6-9 ladder. If you want something more mainstream you can just do the lattice max hangs stuff, it works super well too and the app is great. I'd stay away from anything that will have you do a 40+ minutes fingerboard routine unless you are either forced to train off the wall for a while or you are following a specific training program (like doing the actual RCTM thing as a whole) that tells you to do that. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Jul 19, 2022 |
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Jul 19, 2022 01:26
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asur posted:Increased finger strength over the long term for both for injury prevention and climbing more difficult problems. I've climbed for way longer than a year though I am coming off a pseudo break where I've only bouldered inconsistently for the past 6 months to a year. Your goals are very nonspecific (get stronger fingers), so the program you do matters basically 0%. Whichever of the programs that people have already recommended will be great, as long as it is one you can do consistently. I personally think the lattice progressions in the crimpd app for finger strength is pretty foolproof and would be my first recommendation since you don't have to put any thought into it and it's free.
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Jul 19, 2022 07:58
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I'm going to be sport climbing in Squamish for a week, does anybody have suggestions for must do climbs? Mostly looking for 10a-12b recs, but will probably pick out a 12+/13- to work for a day or two.
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Jul 19, 2022 15:19
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Endjinneer posted:Love me a bit of Cornish granite. The Dewerstone is good if the sun is a bit much. It's on my list although it means getting my passport out to go over the Tamar. We are climbing again this weekend but haven't decided where yet
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Jul 19, 2022 16:38
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Any of you guys catch Reel Rock 16? I'm watching the first movie now, with the wide boys climbing underneath the bridge. I can appreciate the physical challenge of climbing a roof that long... But man I just don't get how that's fun -- it's just the same thing for so long.
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Jul 21, 2022 18:15
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Dodos delight is a fantastic episode.
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Jul 21, 2022 18:26
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Sab669 posted:Any of you guys catch Reel Rock 16? They've been molded in their crack cellar - which similarly looks a bit grim. I feel like they must just love the basic activity of crack vlimbing enough, I guess?
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Jul 21, 2022 18:30
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Yea I suppose it's not so different from speed climbers doing the same beta day in and day out. I just get bored doing the same thing with any frequency Salisbury Snape posted:Dodos delight is a fantastic episode. That was from an older one, but yea that seemed like a really fun group of dudes.
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Jul 21, 2022 18:36
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