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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Does anybody live in Vancouver? I've been bouldering for a couple of months now and would like to climb with people other than whoever happens to be working on the same problem as me at the time.

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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
GQ put Alex Honold into thousands of dollars of clothes.









bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I sent my first "3 hex" (V3-V4) problem last time I climbed, and I'm happy my old rear end is climbing more than just the loser problems for idiot babies like me now.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I say get that money while being dressed in a humiliating striped turtleneck desined for a toddler from the 1950s, personally

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I went to a 'mentor/mentee' night at my gym and the guy who I got paired up with said my technique was just as good as his but I'm just fat. Which, true, but rude.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I would also quit climbing if I saw a bug

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I miss climbing

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I'm back at the bouldering gym.

I got fat and my hands are weak and my calluses are gone :(

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I wonder if having grip that dies after an hour is just sort of part of life for me as a fat sack of crap, or if there is anything I can do to increase my endurance for grip other than "stop overgripping"?

Today I felt real good other than some DOMS in my arms that went away after a good warmup, then I found a fun looking V3-V4 on a slightly overhanging arete with babbys first slopers and decent jugs. After 3 attempts my grip seemed totally done for the day and I struggled to keep a grip on the V0s and V1s that I had warmed up on earlier in the day.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Xyven posted:

It sounds like you're pretty new to climbing, so you might just need to give it time for your body to adjust. Otherwise, the way you'd want to train is to find problems which are around flash level or slightly below and just climb like 15 of them with minimal rests in between (I do 3 min rests). If you're failing early on then use easier problems - the goal is to barely complete all the climbs or only start falling towards the end.

I'll give it a shot. I have a session booked during my lunch break tomorrow and the gym should be empty enough for me to easily go from problem to problem

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

George H.W. oval office posted:

The worst problems are the ones where a high up chip slip leads to you just kinda smearing straight down the wall. gently caress those.

This is why I wear grappling spats for climbing now.

I'm still too new and fat to hangboard, so I'm wondering about practicing dead hangs with my shoulders engaged. I want to eventually get to dead hanging with one hand for more than a couple of seconds, and now I can hang for 20-30 seconds 2 handed. I've started doing a few hangs at the end of my lifting workouts for as long as I can go, but I am wondering if there is a good progression for them and what sort of sets and rest times would be good?

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:

i think i mentioned it here but 4 bouldering gyms (all called the hive) in vancouver and the areas around it have been continuously open since june with a 100%-mask-always-on-no-exceptions policy and as far as i know there have been 0 traced cases of covid from then until now across all four (though i guess it was three gyms for a chunk of it) gyms. and they probably have 200 people a day per gym in them

If you see a fat idiot in a flipped up cap and unicorn spats at north shore or surrey who sucks poo poo at climbing working on 2 or 3-hex problems, that's me

Have you made it out to PoCo yet? I made the trek twice on days that the other gyms were booked solid and it was delightfully empty.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Feb 5, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:

cool if i see someone that fits the bill i will ask if they are bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m

nah i havent checked out poco. im already driving in from loving kits so surrey is like the edge of how far im willing to go. downtown is obviously a lovely gym compared to the rest so i mostly do north van, surrey on sundays

Just don't ask about stairs

I honestly liked terminal, because when I started climbing in late 2019 I was living in the west end and could walk there... then I tried going in there on a weeknight (pre-covid) and holy poo poo. I can't imagine how it would have been when they had the slide open that went directly underneath problems when it was that loving busy.

Here's me, sending baby's first dyno problem in the most scuffed way imaginable

https://twitter.com/ClimbsDave/status/1357709550485336066?s=19

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Feb 5, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


This is safe right?

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

KingColliwog posted:

Is this real? A slide that comes out right under other boulders? Jeez we have a kind of arch-way that people can climb and some climbers that top out have to get under in one of my gyms and I've seen a few close calls. I hope it's a photoshop

They covered it up.

That top out bridge thing was where the top of the slide was so you couldn't even see if anybody was climbing above it lol

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
"Allez! Allezallezallez!" -- an expert I've never met, giving advice in to me in Bellingham

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Just realized that was at least a year ago now because the border has been closed lmao I miss seeing my family irl so much lol

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

The Shin Reaper posted:

Just climb slabs. More slabs. Slabs all the time. Slabs forever.
Good post though.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:

i think there were a couple close calls that made them board it up but i went down that slide many times without a problem. you just make a friend make sure its clear no big deal


dude this problem was sick it was basically my friends first dyno too and shes been climbing for three years. she is usually just afraid of them

It was so fun. So many problems I end up sending and am like "ok great I never have to do that again now" but I'd go back to that one over and over again because it was just so satisfying

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I was working on this fun green "3 hex" (V3-4) on Saturday



and after one of my burns where I grabbed that jug just above the transition from overhang to sort of vertical, the tip of my middle finger went numb. It's still numb today and I wonder what I hosed up in my hand and if I now have super powers where I can touch extremely hot things with the tip of that finger without feeling any pain.


I also randomly bought a Vancouver guidebook and am sort of curious if it's extremely stupid to go out to a bouldering crag alone (probably stuff with flat/safe landings, and there are a few neat looking above-water traverses that might be fun which are V0 or V1) or if that's a thing people do? I have a coworker who climbs but she is not a part of my circle, but otherwise I don't know anybody to go with

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

gohuskies posted:

It's likely safe especially if the road isn't far from the boulders so you can make it out yourself without too much drama if you have a weird fall and sprain an ankle or something, but you still probably want a pad. There is a huge divergence between gym grading and real life grading of boulders at the lower levels, an outdoor V0 or V1 might be as hard as an indoor V3 or V4 depending on how your gym grades, so don't necessarily expect to be cruising up V0s outside, they might still make you work for it.

No idea about how my gym grades -- my usual gym has their own branded grading system and provides rough conversions to V grades. I do know that in the before-times I once visited a gym in Bellingham WA and was sending V4s before I had ever sent the equivalent of a V3/V4 at my local gym, and the same thing with some place in Syracuse NY

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

I was working on this fun green "3 hex" (V3-4) on Saturday



and after one of my burns where I grabbed that jug just above the transition from overhang to sort of vertical, the tip of my middle finger went numb. It's still numb today and I wonder what I hosed up in my hand and if I now have super powers where I can touch extremely hot things with the tip of that finger without feeling any pain.

Update:

I can now sort of feel my finger and it hurts

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I went to my first outdoor crag today (it was raining and it was just off of a hike I was doing but I saw some problems I'm going to definite send next time it's dry)

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Sab669 posted:

Weird going from a nice color coded gym to a "figure it out yourself, dummy" environment, isn't it? :v:

I haven't been outdoors since Fall 2019 but I'm going to a new crag 2 hours away tomorrow with some friends. I'm really excited to break my "dry spell" of no outdoor climbing, a new crag to explore, and simply just having a group with a bunch of pads to go with. Historically I always went alone with my 1 pad.

The one I got stoked on trying when it's dry is just a crack and the beta is probably "just go up the crack" tbh

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I bought an arc'teryx hoodie

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
That seems like something climbing related I thought I'd post

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Found a good youtuber:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_cBw2Rf6ug&t=131s

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
A Central Rock Gym in upstate New York (Rochester) was soft enough for me to send V3s in rental shoes before I had ever managed to do the equivalent of a V3 at my gym at home. So either my gym grades sandbaggy (it actually fluctuates, right now it's sorta soft but a while back I couldn't send poo poo) Whatever though, grades are fake and are only practically useful insofar as it's fun to see a number go up

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Apr 7, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
BC is hurdling towards needing to shut gyms down so I bought a crash pad before the rush of people who are going to want to buy crash pads before the summer.

I hope I don't see a bug while I'm climbing outside

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

I hope I don't see a bug while I'm climbing outside

I climbed outside and saw a bug and the bug attacked me :(

I actually went to a sort of lousy crag inside the city in a park that used to be a quarry where people mostly practice dry tooling and teens get drunk and hurl bottles so there's broken glass everywhere last week on a whim and the landings for everything except a few problems above my pay grade or required me to put too much pressure on my jacked finger were really lovely or being worked on by other people. Also a bunch of problems were covered in moss.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
How was the crowd for access to the area where you were (Grouse? Or out near Horseshoe Bay?)? I had to park about a 30 minute walk away from the trailhead when I was at Lynn Valley for a hike on Saturday because all the closer lots were full.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:

forgot to ask: are you in fraser health or coastal health authority

I'm in Vancouver Coastal, I live in Vancouver proper

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

I love crag dogs

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
At what grade is it ok to start doing power grunts/screams (not Adam Ondra forevershrieks but short, sharp, and well timed gutteral yells)

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Apr 25, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Gonna start making yodels and woohoos when I warm up on downclimbs


I guess I'm starting to project the next grade at my gym now, which is 4 honeycombs (V4-6)... The green in this image



I think this is sort of my style of problem since when I started doing 3 hex problems (V2-4) it was similar stuff -- Slight overhang to vertical, burly-ish moves that my fat rear end can shoot for dynamically. But also I think there may be a new setter at the gym and maybe they set lighter, who knows.

I'm also starting to like pinches, like, a lot

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:

that green is a little soft for a 4hex i think but i really enjoyed the problem because all of my short friends who hate dynos were still able to get it

did you do the red 4 right beside it before they reset it last week

Nope, didn't try it

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I fell downclimbing while warming up today and hosed up my ankle lmao

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Decided to take advantage of my forced month-ish off climbing to buy a hangboard. :hfive:

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
M1 at this weekend's IFSC semi finals is sort of insane lmao

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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I stumbled on this guy's youtube channel yesterday and I'm enthralled at just how slow and controlled he climbs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzTbLVxynnM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVnqNd4OPXo

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