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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
1) Janja is insane

2) M2 was a loving wack problem and I say this as somebody who likes seeing cracks in IFSC. -- If you don't care to see, basically the starting move was a dyno into a textureless hand jam

3) I strained something in my knee with a heel hook (super glad it didn't tear) somehow and my physiotherapist told me not to climb for at least a month :(

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Apr 13, 2022

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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
When I tore up my ankle last year (3 or 4 ligaments tore 3/4 of the way through or something insane like that, it's basically a miracle I didn't snap one completely) I started with the calf raise thing + mobility stuff, then added in standing on the hosed up foot, then added in the same on a soft surface like a yoga mat for added instability and added in the "star drill" where you stand on the one foot and bend down a bit to touch your other foot to the ground in front, behind, and to your side.

I found a physiotherapy for climbers website thing that basically went through the same steps my physio had me do, but I can't find it anymore

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Gonna stop being fat and sad and will use the fingerboard I installed while being hurt last year, starting today, and some day I will send V2 outside lol

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

3) I strained something in my knee with a heel hook (super glad it didn't tear) somehow and my physiotherapist told me not to climb for at least a month :(

Lol yeah nevermind I'm not climbing this season basically, my knee is hosed and I randomly get intense stabbing pains in it when I do things like stand up, sit down, move around, and not move around

Instead I get to watch the world cup on my phone on a stationary bike

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
New edition of Squamish Bouldering is out finally though so I get to see pretty pictures of all the rocks I don't get to climb this year

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

Lol yeah nevermind I'm not climbing this season basically, my knee is hosed and I randomly get intense stabbing pains in it when I do things like stand up, sit down, move around, and not move around

I'm fuckin back baby!

Went into the gym earlier and climbed some V0s and V1s and I'm so fat and out of shape and it feels nice to climb again anyway

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Mezzanon posted:

Finally made some outdoor climbing sessions for the season.

At big rock:



Is that the big rock that the really lovely beer company named itself after?

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Me last night (rubbing hands together): ok time to send this problem and finally get to the next grade
Me last night moments after falling off the starting hold in pain: oh good my calf tore

Felt this weird thud in my leg like someone ran up behind me and punted it, I turned around expecting a kid to be there who just ran into me while not looking where they were going or something

Never get old, it sucks poo poo

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Sab669 posted:

Someone at my gym found herself on crutches and needing weeks of PT after just pulling hard on some random heel hook.

Buddy, my PCL exploded doing this in the spring

quote:

Did you actually have to go to a doctor? Or just hobbling around for now?

I saw a Dr at a walk-in clinic bout it who said it's just a strain, wait few weeks and if it's not better call your physician to get imaging done. I've got PT from a PT place where I've been told most of the people who work there are climbers later this morning.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Going climbing for the first time this year later today. Late last year I ended up with an impingement in a shoulder which took forever to rehab. I ended up getting that sorted out and had exactly 3 pain free days of lifting, at which point my other shoulder started to hurt.

It's still not great but I'm at the point now where I can do pull ups from a dead hang without pain (edit: nevermind, I just tried on my hangboard and it still hurts a lot to do that) so I'm gonna go try to hammer out a bunch of V0s to see how it feels. I also gained 20 pounds but then lost 20 pounds so I'm probably much less muscular/strong

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jun 20, 2023

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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Went to the gym today in spite of my shoulder. Playing around with jug hauls on the spray wall and my shoulder feels fine for some reason. But I'm also very very weak and my fingers hurt after 30 mins of jugs lmao

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