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So it looks like I can get, say, a 60" 3d 240hz LG for $200 less than the comparable Samsung. I've recently had some bad experiences with LG hardware/software, so I'm tempted to shell out the extra 10x for the Samsung, which I've never had trouble with. With that in mind, what's the diff between the various UN__ES???? models? Like ES8000, ES7500, etc.I'm most strongly considering the Samsung UN60ES8000 right now. It's a little more than I was planning on, but I really don't have a hard budget on this so I might shell out for the 60" screen instead of the 55" I was originally considering. e: Is ES like a couple years old or something? I can get that tv on Amazon for $2k, but it's from some other seller and they say they only have 2 in stock, I can't find the same model on newegg or anything. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Sep 6, 2013 |
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Sep 6, 2013 03:18
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So supposedly that 60" ES8000 has all the fixin's (dual core, good cmr, slim yadda yadda, smart stuff, etc), I feel like I must be missing something because I can't find it by that specific model number at the other retailers and that one on amazon claims two left. I'm really tempted to just pull the trigger but I want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious.
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Sep 6, 2013 05:35
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Umm...yeah? That's exactly the item I was talking about when I saidBad Munki posted:they only have 2 in stock Bad Munki posted:two left I'm just confused as to why they're apparently so rare. It looks like a good deal, even the other sellers on Amazon aren't that low, but I'm just naturally wary of good deals. And it puzzles me that it doesn't even show up on, say, Newegg, or Best Buy, or wherever.
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Sep 6, 2013 05:47
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Ah, okay, great, that's just the extra info I was looking for. I figure other retailers don't have them because exactly that: they're 2012s. They'd rather be selling 2013s now.  Also, I realize my initial comments were all phrased a bit train-of-thought which might have made for some confusion, I'm sorta piecing this together as I go, but that TV looks like just what I'm looking for. I just hope it'll fit the wall mount I have.
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Sep 6, 2013 06:04
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No, that's okay, like I said, I was thinking as I went and wasn't being entirely clear. Anyhow, gently caress it, I pulled the trigger. It's being sold on Amazon from some place Lincoln Direct LLC out of Illinois, so hopefully nothing's too screwy. I keep double checking the specs as if they're going to change: is it really 3D? Is it really 240hz? Is it really 60"? Then I'm reading the spec sheets and I go, "Wtf is '3D available?! Am I going to get jipped?!" Even if it's well within my budget, dropping $2k on a tv is outside my norm and makes me nervous. v  vWilford Cutlery posted:Only 1 left now
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Sep 6, 2013 06:40
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Yeah, mostly I'm after the extra screen real-estate. But I figured I have a 3d bluray player and a 3d receiver, why NOT get a 3d tv? Also, I have directv instead of cable, and most of my movies come from redbox anyhow, so there's at least some 3d content. Next up I just need to figure out what I need to do to get my computer to support 3d on this thing. That's probably another subforum, though.
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Sep 6, 2013 15:04
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HFX posted:Computer: Usually for 3D to a TV, just run an HDMI cable from your NVIDIA / ATI card to your TV and turn the option on in the game. For desktop monitors, I think only LG is really in the game. :-( Yeah, that's how I have it hooked up now (well, except the hdmi goes through my receiver so the computer is just another input to select), so I'm hoping all I have to do is just swap the tv. Currently, my old 46" samsung acts as my only monitor for this computer. I'm actually super pleased with the setup: the computer is in another room, and there's a patch panel next to my surround/hdmi patch panel behind my receiver, with hdmi and usb. A little usb hub is plugged into the usb patch, and then goes to the computer on the other side of the wall. The end result is that the computer's only presence in the room, aside from the wee little usb hub with two wireless dongles, is the tv and a wireless mouse/keyboard. I suppose if I wanted, I could do away with the hub and just use a matching wireless keyboard/mouse and have the dongle directly in the wall, but I'm too picky about my mice. 
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Sep 6, 2013 15:22
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I'm having trouble finding the mounting specs for that new ES8000 I ordered. I grabbed the manual online, but didn't see it in there. Anyone know where I can find the VESA specs for this thing? Mostly I just want to know if it'll fit my 100×100 - 600×400 bracket or if I need to quick grab a new one before the tv shows up.
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Sep 7, 2013 14:06
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Mister Macys posted:VESA Size: 400x400 Thanks, I couldn't find that, I dunno. 
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Sep 8, 2013 01:31
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I can't help with your problem but I love that the lady in desaturation-land on the left looks all sad about it.
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Sep 10, 2013 00:44
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Hot diggity dog! Before:  After:  Not shown: the wall-hugging goodness of a slim tv. And this one is waaaaay lighter than my old 46", so I was able to wrangle it up onto the wall by myself with minimal consternation. Also, it's hard to see, but my old tv had something like 2" of bezel, this one has practically none. I may actually pop it off the wall and lower the mount. The height was great for the old tv, but my couch is pretty low and the mounting holes on the back of the tv were set such that the bottom of the tv remained in the same place as the old one, which pushed the top up towards the ceiling. Now I just need to straighten all my poo poo up and get a proper cabinet for the rest of the gear.
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Sep 10, 2013 16:49
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A couple questions about the new samsung 8000 series I just bought: 1) 2) When I change inputs on my receiver, or change resolutions on my computer, the tv often sees a moment when it gets no input on the selected source. It "helpfully" pops up a dialog saying as much, with an option to try to set the device to standby (using the remote as a universal device or maybe some anynet+ crap, which I have turned off) and another option just listed as "Okay" (which effectively ignores the warning.) This is super duper loving annoying because by the time it even notices anything is "wrong" and pops the warning up, the video feed is back and displaying in the background behind the warning. Is it possible to do anything about this so I don't have to use the trackpad remote to select the "ignore" option (which is not selected by default)? 3) I'd like to use some of the apps on the tv like netflix and amazon prime. However, my receiver handles all my inputs/etc and the tv is just connected by a single hdmi cable, which is always selected as the source on the tv. The tv's speakers are disabled. Problem is, using the tv's apps, I get no audio, because it's not sending anything back to the receiver to go to the speakers. Is it possible to get that audio sent backwards via that hdmi cable, or do I need to run a second connection via, say, the optical connection? I think that's it for now. Otherwise, I'm absolutely in love with this tv, it is hot poo poo. On a side note, I wasn't really worried about 3D stuff, but after playing Bioshock: Infinite in 3D on my PC for a few hours last week, I'm stoked, at least for videogames. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 03:50
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Thanks. It's an Onkyo HT-RC360, looks like that's supposed to be an option. Which is good, because I've got my tv up on the wall with everything run behind the wall and I didn't particularly feel like running more cable. I guess I just need to figure out if I'm using the right hdmi port on the tv (I'm going to guess it's hdmi 1, which I think is what I'm using) and then how to actually enable it and what I need to set my receiver to to get the audio coming in out to the speakers. e: Ahh, looks like I might have to have Anynet+ on. Which is kind of annoying because then my tv tries to gently caress with my receiver and I get stupid stuff like both my receiver and tv showing overlays for stuff like volume (and they don't agree on what the value is except at 0.) ee: Figured out how to turn off the smart hub stuff on startup, it was in Smart Features->On TV Settings->Auto Start. Also sorta figured out the double-overlay thing, although I'm not crazy about my solution so far: I disabled the receiver's OSD and let the tv control volume if it wants. Problem is, there's a slight delay when adjusting the volume before the tv's OSD updates (and even more of a delay if using the tv's remote.) And because of the difference between what the receiver says it's at and what the tv says it's at, when I use the tv's OSD, I can't set the volume to, say, 24, the scaling makes it jump from 23 to 25. Also, with anynet+ on, when the tv changes modes (like bringing up the netflix app) it keeps changing the source select on my receiver, I don't know what that's about. It's not like it's picking a more applicable source or anything, so I don't know what it thinks it's doing. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 04:10
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It was a little bit of effort and digging around, but it was so worth it. I started by trying nvidia's 3dtv play, which is the tv version of their 3dvision software. It was okay. That list of games that it works seems to be pretty short. Bioshock Infinite isn't on it, or has lovely support. I did find a (free) mod for BI that fixed a bunch of stuff to make it work with 3dvision/3dtv play, but it's sort of a work in progress and currently has some issues, the most notable to me being that you can't see the drat gun you're holding. Also, in order to use 3dtv play, you have to have your monitor set to a 3d resolution, which introduced a REALLY large amount of input lag. I mean so much that the game was basically unplayable. So a bit more digging around and I came across tridef. It's pretty spendy, but the support seems great and there's a 14-day trial mode. That one worked basically out of the box, I just installed tridef (and disabled 3dtv play), fired up bioshock, and went to town. Tridef also has an OSD you can bring up that lets you adjust a lot of stuff in-game by navigating a little menu with the numkeys. I found that for me, the best experience was to set the max depth around 30 and the "% in front of screen" (I think that's convergence in proper terminology?) to 0 so it's more like you're looking through a window. The only problem with tridef seems to be that I can't get frame packed 3d to my tv, I had to set it to do 3d via left/right split. I think tridef was developed with interlaced 3d in mind. So I guess it means I'm not getting 1080p on both eyes, but I am getting it at 60hz with no input lag that I can detect, and the support list is super. Once I figured out to use the left/right split mode, everything worked right out of the box. So yeah, now that I got past getting it working once, it's just a matter of turning the game on.  Doctor rear end in a top hat posted:There should be an option in the game to turn on 3D. The TV should turn it on automatically when it gets the signal from the console.
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Sep 16, 2013 14:45
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If you think that's bad, try using nvidia's 3dtv play for pc gaming. It's at LEAST a full quarter-second of delay, maybe more like a half. And that's just hanging out wiggling the mouse around on the desktop. I can move the mouse all the way across the desktop and back to where it was, completely stop my hand, and then watch on the tv as the mouse follows my now-complete actions. This happens just from setting the computer to a 3D resolution, which you have to do separate from actually running the game. So bad. Whereas tridef operates in a 2d resolution with no lag and seamless 3d-ification of games that 3d support was never added to by the developers.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 16:33
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I'm still having trouble getting arc working. I've got hdmi-cec enabled on the tv and all the arc stuff, I've connected the tv via the correct hdmi port (hdmi3 on the samsung es8000), my receiver has arc turned on (or rather, set to auto, which is should be), everything I've read says it's all enabled appropriately and hooked up right. How do I actually tell my drat receiver to pipe the audio on its ARC channel to the speakers? It's an Onkyo ht rc360. I feel like maybe it should be automatic but when I run, say, the tv's amazon prime instant app, my receiver switches to the tv/cd input (which is just a stereo RCA input in the back) and I get no audio. Of course, if I switch it to some other input, I get audio from, say, my directv box, instead of the tv. Any ideas? e: May have figured it out, sounds like that tv/cd IS the input source you select when you want to use the audio return channel. May just be I was watching something expecting sound and hadn't gotten any yet. I'll have to take a closer look (listen.) Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 18:55
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I didn't even realize netflix had any 3d content.
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Sep 16, 2013 20:38
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actionjackson posted:I was looking at Monoprice, I have HDMI cables but my current tv doesn't have a lot of room on the back when paired with my wall mount. I'm wondering if there are ones where the length of the connecting piece is shorter, so I can have some breathing room back there instead of having them be completely squished against the wall. Help?
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Sep 19, 2013 03:19
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Two things about my samsung es8000 that are driving me nuts: 1) After powering on, it defaults to the active/last hdmi port, hdmi3. After about 5 seconds, it switches to hdmi1, which nothing is connected to. I have to hit the source button on the remote and change back to hdmi3. Even if I use the source select to explicitly say hdmi3 before it changes over, it still switches. After it has switched and I change it back, everything is fine. I'm guessing this is because for a while, I had my receiver connected via hdmi1 and it had my directv box listed as a device on that input, and when I switched it to hdmi3, it still listed hdmi1 as directv (as well as listing hdmi3 as directv.) I had to go in and figure out how to delete the device it thought was connected to hdmi1, but I suspect there's still something left over there that's making it think there's a device connected. When I change it back to hdmi3 after the auto-switch, it briefly shows a little dialog box saying "Disconnecting anynet+ device." What the gently caress, it's sooooooo annoying. 2) There has to be a way to turn off the on screen display for, specifically, volume. I have to keep hdmi-cec on so that I can use the audio return channel, but that leads to the tv insisting on displaying (over top of any other osd, of course!) what it thinks the volume is whenever it changes, and it's both a) wrong and b) laggy.
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Sep 20, 2013 16:11
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I'm mostly meh about the gesture control. It doesn't bother me, except that if I have it enabled and don't have the camera up, it bitches about it every time I turn the TV on. That's annoying. The voice control is worthless, though: it is routinely triggered by dialog in whatever I'm watching saying, "Hi T-whatever-name," that is, someone saying hi to anyone who's name starts with a T. Did they not test it under such circumstances?  I suppose it might be in part because I'm using external speakers, but come on.
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Oct 5, 2013 17:12
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Don Lapre posted:Your TV only accepts up to 60hz Isn't that a fact of the current hdmi spec or something? I mean in general. I was sort of passively reading about that (because I have my 240hz tv hooked up to my computer as well and could only go to 60hz on the computer) and I swear I saw something about hdmi <2.0 being the limiting factor. Is that so?
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Oct 8, 2013 14:30
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Just out of curiosity, what are you doing with your computer hooked up to the screen that the taskbar is just sitting there for 5-6 hours? I was trying to think of common use cases where that might be the case, but everything except "browsing the web" leads to more dynamic full screen content than that. Well, everything except that and "not using it at all, the tv is just on displaying an idle desktop," in which case, turn it off, have the display sleep, or turn on a screensaver (even just a plain black screen one.)
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Oct 10, 2013 00:13
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Okay, fair enough. Not sure what to tell you, then. Maybe "don't have a plasma?"
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Oct 10, 2013 00:40
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bull3964 posted:The ONLY advantage 4k has in the foreseeable future is to reduce screen door effect on very large screens. Otherwise, it's a bit pointless. I use my tv as a monitor and would love to have a 4k desktop, and to play games at 4k. So there's at least one (very admittedly niche) purpose.
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Nov 1, 2013 20:00
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I can't comment on plasmas, but I have yet to find a piece of LG hardware/software that I like. If the hardware's okay, the software is poo poo. If the software's okay, the hardware is poo poo. If they both seem okay, wait a month.
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Nov 4, 2013 15:30
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On the flip side, I have yet to meet a bit of Samsung kit that I don't like.
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Nov 4, 2013 16:13
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Is the tilt feature something you specifically want? If not, you can get a slimmer one pretty easily. I have this one and am totally happy with it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y4TUL0/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Nov 8, 2013 02:52
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Because it's the hot new budding technology and they're not going to bother doing anything less. The resolution is a small portion of the price tag, they'd basically be trying to sell a four thousand dollar 720p tv next to a four thousand dollar 1080p tv.
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Nov 8, 2013 15:26
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Oh, yeah, that makes more sense.
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Nov 8, 2013 16:49
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