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I'm looking at getting a 70-80" TV. I can go up to about $4,000 potentially. The only 4K TV in that range is the Sharp (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECOVVWQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1AVFDL67NPY1X&coliid=I6X42ICH7V8T3) and it looks like the quality may not be that great. I honestly don't think I really am likely to have many 4k sources either. My Onkyo TX-NR709 appears to be able to do 4k upscaling, but I'm not sure how excited I'm going to be about that sitting between 8-10 feet away. I also need decent off-axis viewing since due to the layout of the room, people may be sitting somewhat to the side. I think that's less of a thing these days than it was 5 years ago. What would be a great 1080p TV? It's going to be used for video games, sports, and movies primarily. I don't get Satellite or Cable, so just OTA for TV. I'm looking at the Samsung F8000 but it's a bit more than I wanted to spend. I went to a best buy and took a look around, but it's loving impossible to tell the difference on anything, and there's like umpteen models in the same size bracket from each manufacturer. Lower than $4,000 is better, but I'm willing to go up to that if the quality is significantly better.
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Jun 12, 2014 14:09
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Incredulous Dylan posted:For those of you buying a TV for a new home (which I just did), be sure to check out the coupons USPS offers when you change your address. I just received that 10% off new home owner coupon for Best Buy and I'm using it to swap out my Aquos Q+ 60" for a 70" for $300 more after tax! Good thing I checked that coupon out within the return period for the 60... How long does it take to get that coupon?
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Jun 13, 2014 20:40
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Incredulous Dylan posted:I registered online and got the coupon printed within minutes! Just change your mailing address with USPS online. Keep in mind that the coupon has a link to where, in fine print, it states "not compatible with premium TVs from <insert every decent brand name here>". However, I went into my local Best Buy personally and asked about the model I was looking at and it was accepted with no problem. My guess is that they are talking about the Magnolia series. Interesting. We close on July 9 but I might buy a TV sooner - 10% would get the F8000 probably just below what I'm considering a limit, and it seems that's probably the best 1080p you can buy. I'm not convinced that 4k is ready yet, or that I'll get much of a benefit sitting at 10 feet anyways with a 75" screen. I will have to try that for sure, thanks! I will say if anyone has suggestions for 70-80" TVs that are comparably good, let me know! Edit: drat, the F8000 is a "magnolia" one so I dunno if they'll take it for that. ssb fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jun 13, 2014 |
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Jun 13, 2014 20:50
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Incredulous Dylan posted:Agreed. I haven't been convinced that there will be a crazy difference at the distance I'll be viewing from and the wait for a great variety of 4K content is going to be literally years (remember the horrible blu ray releases?). With the Q+'s fauxk I'll at least be able to play that stuff whenever it comes out. I am only guessing on the Magnolia but from my reading those TVs tend to be special BB exclusive offerings where they can't negotiate on price like they would with a "regular" TV. For example, the Q+ Magnolia has a different bezel, a crappy little sub woofer and is like $500 more because they aren't allowed to come down on price. Just show them the coupon and ask - the guy at my store put the SKU in and scanned the coupon to verify it would work. Damned if I am hauling a 60" all the way back for nothing. Making the trip tonight! I may be looking at the same TV as you actually. Although I might consider an 80" if it's a reasonable option. When I stopped and looked the other day, the salesguy was trying to talk me into one of the Sharps and he said a big selling point for it would be the ability to handle a 4k signal. Guess we'll see what they have in the store if I go today.
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Jun 13, 2014 21:02
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Gyshall posted:Instantly after you change your address. It is a PDF. Yep - just filed and got it printed out. I'll probably head over to Best Buy this evening to take a look. Anyone know if they do price-matching with themselves? Like, if I buy it now and it goes cheaper in the next 30 days, will they refund the difference?
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Jun 13, 2014 21:59
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Maneki Neko posted:Yes, Best Buy offers that, and I've never had any problems using it. Yep, I ended up getting this one: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sharp-a...0inch&cp=1&lp=6 The coupon was valid on it, which saved me another $300 off the $600 it was already discounted. I may have been able to get it somewhere else, but meh. The coupon also gave me $100 off of the stupid 5 year protection plan that I ended up getting. I usually don't, but whatever, it was $500. I probably won't regret it, right? Thanks for the advice on that coupon - that was extremely useful! They were even able to schedule the free delivery for after my closing, so it'll come sometime on July 10.  Edit: The coupon would not have been good for the 75" F8000.
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Jun 14, 2014 00:43
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Incredulous Dylan posted:Personally, I wouldn't have sprung for the magnolia due to the slight differences with the version that sells for $2299.99. Afaik they are exactly the same excepting the 12,000,000 vs 8,000,000 dynamic contrast ratio and different model stands. The Magnolia is THX certified but I am sure you have a 5.1 surround system, right? I hate to say it but that's my weigh-in! That cash will get you a bad rear end new sub-woofer or something. In my own news - after schlepping the 60" to Best Buy and picking up the 70", then carrying the 70" up three flights of stairs with a buddy, I come to find that Sharp forgot to include screws for the stand in the box. My buddies all came over to watch a flick and game on a huge rear end screen and instead found me muttering to myself and searching the carpet I wanted the contrast ratio and the 2 pairs of glasses, so the extra $400 was OK for that. It's true I don't need its sound, but I don't need any more subwoofers either. I've already got a pretty solid 7.2 system that really doesn't need any upgrades anytime soon. I'll be wallmounting this thing, which seems a bit odd in that all the mounts for it are for smaller TVs, but the 400x400 matches the pattern, so I'll probably get this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LL5JDA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1AVFDL67NPY1X&coliid=I1MVXXDM3XT384 unless anyone has any better suggestions that aren't the $400 one! I don't *need* the articulating, but it'd be nice if we end up with a pool table at one end or want to watch from the bar area.
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Jun 14, 2014 17:35
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. I currently have a huge mess in my living room and a TV taking up the entire loveseat. Called Sharp and was told that screws would be sent but with no ETA. The guy was very cooperative, though.
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Incredulous Dylan posted:Trip report with the Sharp lc-70tq15u after two weeks. I am extremely pleased with the picture quality of this set. I don't know how all the sub-pixel stuff plays out exactly but the result is an awesomely crisp picture with an impressive color range. Watching that Amazing 4K Flowers youtube really shows off that range. Upscaling of 1080p sources is impressive and I'm having trouble finding a reason to switch over to my Blu Ray player vs Netflix. It comes default with an absolute ton of jacked up blues for that sort of bright, modern picture people can be attracted to. Imagine if the opening zoom shot in The Godfather looked like it was in a florescent lit room and you would have an idea of what the default settings for this TV can be like :/. Great settings for sports, games or more "modern" looking TV shows but not much of a look for a good movie imo. I personally tossed all that out of the window and went with the calibration settings AVS forum has experimented with. There are some adjustments to these in the following posts by that poster (mainly changing the color gamut to expanded and active contrast to standard as far as I have read) but it is a great starting point that I would recommend anyone with the Q+ line take a look into. This gets things back to normal and just focuses on delivering a proper picture. Glad to hear all of this, since I got the LC-70uq17u and decided to pick up a crazy overpriced waste of money Blu Ray player after reading a bunch of reviews of it, the Oppo BDP-103. I'm definitely going to screw around with the 4k upscaling, as I'm almost positive my receiver will handle it (Onkyo TX-NR709) and do all the processing with the Oppo, using the receiver as pass-through. I'm hoping it looks fantastic and I'm thinking it will. I won't know until July 10 at the earliest, since that's when things start getting delivered after we close on the 9th, but I'm getting pretty excited about everything.
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Jun 26, 2014 23:46
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Incredulous Dylan posted:You'll be able to find UQ specific calibrations in that thread as well! Cool, thanks. I have the Stearns and Munsil blu-ray as well, but honestly it's a bit above me and probably not worth the effort, haha.
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Jun 27, 2014 15:07
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:I've been debating whether to get a nice new mattress or a fancy television and am clearly about to make the right decision. Can anyone attest to the merits of this device? How old are you? If your current mattress sucks and you're young, getting a better mattress now is going to save you a poo poo ton of back problems. As someone who currently has awful back problems that were in part caused by sleeping on a lovely futon for years, get the mattress.
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Jul 10, 2014 23:41
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kri kri posted:Not home but I would imagine 15-20 lbs. Not willing to have a bookshelf just for this, its either finding a way to mount it to the tv or raising the tv up a few inches so it can go directly on the tv stand. I bought a shelf from our local hardware store for a couple bucks and will be mounting it above the TV this evening. One of these sorts of things, except not this one: http://www.ikea.com/PIAimages/0100826_PE244297_S5.JPG Edit: my center channel is more or less this, except like an 805 or something: http://www.focal.com/en/chorus-800-v/40-chorus-cc-800-v-3544056691111.html ssb fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Jul 14, 2014 |
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Jul 14, 2014 18:37
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kri kri posted:How are you planning to mount it? I would appreciate some pics, thanks. Certainly, but I think you're overthinking this. There's not a lot to it. Here we go. 1.) The setup:  . Ignore all the wires everywhere, this is all temporary until I have a chance to run stuff through the wall and put keystone jacks in for everything as well as a new outlet behind the TV.2.) The shelf:  . Just a cheap one from Menards (local home depot type place, more or less)2.) Most of the tools:  . Not pictured: Long screwdriver, pencil, stud finder, and a ruler3.) Marking the studs: Not pictured. I kinda cheated in that I already knew where the wall studs were from mounting the TV a day before. I still verified them at the new height with the stud finder in case they were insanely warped or something. Unfortunately the stud finder kept going off whenever I pointed it at myself. Bahaha I slay myself  4.) Marking holes:  I marked a hole for the top hole in the left bracket and used a level to get the location for the top hole of the right bracket, both around the middle of the studs. I was too lazy to do an exact 16 inches but it's something like that. I then marked the other two holes by using the level and ruler to get the distance/location for them. This turned out to be a mistake for reasons I'll explain a bit later.4.) Drill pilot holes: Not pictured. I used a 1/16" bit to drill pilot holes for the screws in about an inch. 5.) Insert screws partway:  I put each screw in partway to get the holes started to make it a bit easier.6.) Level check:  Checked my work, looks good enough7.) Install the brackets:  Screwed in the brackets with a long screwdriver. This is where I realized that I went a bit wrong earlier. The holes in the brackets aren't aligned vertically at all, which I didn't notice. Fortunately I was able to kind of widen the holes a little bit with a file and just hold it firmly level vertically when I screwed them in and they both ended up decent enough, maybe a couple degrees off but not really noticeable. Whoops.8.) Level check again:  Seems good!9.) Put shelf on:  I centered it via the ruler and marked the front 2 holes with a pencil.10.) Drill pilot holes:  Put the shelf on the ground and drilled 2 pilot holes where I had marked. Be careful doing this so that you don't go all the way through the wood - I've done that in the past.11.) Insert the screws:  Put the screws partway in again to check if all looks good and make them easier to turn on the wall. Remove screws.12.) Screw shelf in: Not pictured. I screwed the two I had drilled with the pilot hole in, and then didn't bother with pilot holes for the 2 back screws. They went in well enough with just pressure on the screwdriver and they're hard to mark, so that worked fine. 13.) Finished product:  I didn't put the speaker on for the picture but you get the idea.It really isn't very complicated. It doesn't look centered in the picture but it's centered in relation to the mounting bracket. It's a big articulating one so the TV is off kilter most of the time unless I screw with it a lot, which I haven't done because it's only been on the wall a day. 
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Jul 15, 2014 01:15
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leidend posted:I honestly didn't laugh until you mentioned you wanted a built in DVD player. Also you should probably not be using component cables unless you aboslutely have to. Use HDMI. I'd still try to save up a couple months til you can afford a little bit more. They don't make flatscreens with DVD players built in unless you're looking at weird off brands that shouldn't really exist. You should probably read through the OP of this thread again - I'm really not trying to be rude here but this is kind of an odd post.
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Jul 15, 2014 01:39
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kri kri posted:I appreciate this but I am not willing to drill holes in the walls for this project as I am renting. Fair enough, although they're rather small holes that you could pretty easily spackle up. I've drilled way worse than that in rentals, spackled them up, and never had an issue. But that's obviously your call.
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Jul 15, 2014 02:39
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As mentioned, I got a Sharp Aquos 70UQ17U a bit ago. Prior to this, I've only owned plasmas, as far as HDTVs go. While doing calibration last night, I noticed that the black is very "splotchy." On an all black screen, there's significant splotches of lighter color throughout. It's not concentrated in the corners or anything - I could try to get a picture if asked. What I wanted to know was if that's considered normal for LED TVs. If so, I'll just get used to it. It's quite noticeable on a pure black screen, and somewhat noticeable on a dark scene in a movie. The rest seems to have calibrated pretty well, based on my first gen Spears and Munsil blu-ray running through an Oppo BDP-103.
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Jul 21, 2014 14:44
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shortspecialbus posted:As mentioned, I got a Sharp Aquos 70UQ17U a bit ago. Prior to this, I've only owned plasmas, as far as HDTVs go. While doing calibration last night, I noticed that the black is very "splotchy." On an all black screen, there's significant splotches of lighter color throughout. It's not concentrated in the corners or anything - I could try to get a picture if asked. What I wanted to know was if that's considered normal for LED TVs. If so, I'll just get used to it. It's quite noticeable on a pure black screen, and somewhat noticeable on a dark scene in a movie. I don't think I quite made it clear enough that I was actually asking a question here - Is splotchy black normal on non-plasma HDTVs?
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Jul 23, 2014 15:03
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r0ck0 posted:The panel lottery is more related to who the underlying manufacturer is. For instance vizio has three companies make their panels, one being sharp, I forgot the other two. One easy way to help get the best TV from the model you choose is to get the one with the latest manufacturing date. The idea is that the later TVs will have the manufacturing flaws worked out and should be in good working order. Also this is only really possible if you buy from a B&M store with stock on hand. I think I'll post a picture of it next week. I have a 30 day guarantee and I bought the protection plan anwyays so if it turns out to be more than it should be I'll just make them come get it and bring me a new one.
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Jul 23, 2014 16:21
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Residency Evil posted:Why would that be helpful? Because it's $150 for the device, which you then just ship between goons for cost of shipping plus a bit extra to the guy who bought it. That way you don't have to pay $150 to use it once, you pay shipping + $10 or whatever. Not that I would want to do this, but it is a thing that has happened.
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Jul 29, 2014 13:18
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The bar area in our basement has an antenna hookup and power outlet in the ceiling in the corner, presumably for a previously-mounted TV, although it doesn't really look like there was ever one there. How well do smallish (~32" or less) tvs work on swivel mounts? I'd like to put a new TV up there perhaps, but I don't know if I want it to have to use 2 wall studs, as it'd end up looking bad I think. What other ways are there to mount a TV up in a corner? I'm open to ideas.
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Jul 29, 2014 14:15
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r0ck0 posted:I had a 32" TV on a single wall stud swivel mount and it worked fine. I could pull it away from the wall and turn it or push against the wall to save space. That looks to be about what I want! I don't know why I didn't find that sort of thing when I looked, apparently I'm bad at the internet today. Thanks!
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Jul 29, 2014 16:37
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ddogflex posted:I was looking at the E-series Vizio, then talked myself into the M-series Vizio, but when I saw the Sony for the same price it pushed me that way. This sounds stupid, but I think the Sharps just look cheap, which I didn't really want dominating my living room. I have a 70" 1080p sharp (the 70UQ17U) that I sit about 10 feet from, and 1080p is fine at that distance. I have pretty good eyes, too. 4k is nice but the lack of content for it really doesn't make it worth the premium right now when you could get a better 1080p that'll look better most of the time, in my opinion.
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Jul 29, 2014 16:46
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Residency Evil posted:Ah sorry, I read your original post wrong and thought you wanted to transfer firmware settings between TVs. Wasn't my post, I'm just reading it for you  At any rate, now to find a cheap but workable 32" TV or so to hang in my bar. Do they all support native digital antenna these days? I won't be running this one through a tivo mini if I decide to get it.
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Jul 29, 2014 18:05
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bull3964 posted:The TV has to be HCDP compatible, otherwise nothing HDMI would work from cable boxes to blu-ray players. Honestly, I've had trouble with lovely HDMI cables causing issues with some devices some of the time. Try replacing the cable first.
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Jul 31, 2014 14:52
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ddogflex posted:So I received my Sony 70W850B on Friday. God. drat. Looks so good in person, better than it did in the store (I know thats true of all TVs). 720P definitely feels like SD on a screen this size though, 1080P is fan-loving-tastic. Black is actually black on this thing. It's mind-blowing. I'm coming from a 2009 model Sony 46". I'm pretty goddamned excited about this thing. You might be able to adjust that on either your blu ray player or the tv itself. The convergence point or whatever it is probably needs to be screwed with. It'll never be perfect but you can probably get it to where it's actually enjoyable, especially for animated films like Tangled or whatever. I actually kind of like the 3d gimmick
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Aug 4, 2014 20:48
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BitterAvatar posted:Has anybody had recent experience with Sharp's Aquos Q and Q+ line? I've had a 42" Aquos for years that's been great to me but I've got a dead row of pixels so I figured I might start looking. The Q and Q+ lines both seem well priced for what they're offering, but I wanted to see what others thought. I have a 70UQ17U which I'm mostly pleased with. It does absolutely idiotic things with CEC in conjunction with my receiver and blu ray player to the point where I've given up on CEC and bought a harmony remote, and the black is really blotchy is the entire screen is black. It also seems to have a fair bit of input lag for games, which is somewhat better if you use HDMI 4 and put game mode on - not great though. Aside from that, though, it's gorgeous and it's got fine enough grain controls to really tweak colors and such to be perfect. I'd recommend it despite my earlier bitching. Edit: I meant HDMI4, in case anyone ever refers to this for anything. ssb fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Aug 5, 2014 |
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Aug 4, 2014 22:13
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Psmith posted:Can you explain the first part a little more? Because the SOE is my biggest concern with getting a new TV (as in I want to avoid it like a plague). You can almost always turn it off in my experience. Just make sure that the TV will let you do so. "Real" 24fps is nice - it means that the movie at 24fps can be done with a straight up multiple of the refresh rate - i.e. on a 120hz TV, it shows each movie frame for 5 tv "frames." 240hz would be 10. And so forth. The problem comes when you don't have a multiple of that, and you have to do poo poo like 3:2 pulldown (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-two_pull_down) or similar, where you're combining and doing other weird crap with frames to get them to show up properly. That's ok if you don't notice it, but if you do, it's pretty noticeable and can be annoying, similar to the SOE.
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Aug 6, 2014 14:13
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Psmith posted:So I'm still going back and forth between TV options and I'm wondering about something else. My biggest concern is picture quality so I know in the back of my mind that plasma is a good option. Especially with the attractive pricing (for example: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung...F5300&cp=1&lp=1 ) I had an old 2003-era 50" panasonic plasma that generated a ton of heat and it didn't matter at all in the summer and in the winter it just made the living room slightly warmer than some other rooms. Not problematically so though. I can't speak for that TV in particular but I've never felt that any of my plasma TVs have had a considerable impact on the room climate.
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Aug 6, 2014 20:41
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Wowporn posted:I'm looking at this same TV and am also cramming it into a small rear end room so I would also love any opinions. I live in the cold as poo poo north though so if it could raise the temp of my room by 5 or more degrees that would be dope. I've always had a plasma til my most recent LED and unless it's a dark movie I've never felt the need to even close the curtains in a fairly well lit room.
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Aug 7, 2014 02:19
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I guess I'm an outlier in that I actually like the 3D gimmick, especially on animated films. I really only have experience with Samsung and Sharp, but both were certainly serviceable. I'm somewhat disappointed that it's going away because there are a lot of times that I really like it.
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Aug 9, 2014 03:47
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Wowporn posted:Sort of related to the TV I will be buying, if I have half a dozen old consoles/vcrs/whatever the gently caress, and the TV I'm getting has 2x hdmi (one of which will be taken up by a PC) and nothing else, what's the least pain in the rear end solution to get it all hooked up? I figured some sort of RCA hub but I can't find exactly what I need. I'd route it through a receiver, personally. Even a lovely old one should do composite switching, even if you don't use it for actual audio. Otherwise there's probably some sort of composite/RCA switching device covered with dust somewhere that I guess you could try.
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Aug 11, 2014 05:17
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sellouts posted:I am confused by vizio including a soundbar in their upcoming reference series. I just want a very good panel, I have sound stuff already figured out. Sell the soundbar on Ebay. I picked one up to go with an old 60" plasma that was moving off the sound system to make way for a new TV, and holy poo poo it sounds amazingly good compared to the default speakers on the TV! Not as good as the setup I had, but Vizio makes a pretty good soundbar. I don't think you'd have a lot of trouble selling it, unless it has some sort of horrible proprietary interface with the TV.
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Aug 12, 2014 03:45
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Psmith posted:Not sure if this is the right place for a small issue I'm having with a new TV but here goes: My best guess is a bad cable with weird HDCP issues. Edit: Oh look, a new page - try the guy above me's idea too. I'm still leaning towards cheap/broken cable that isn't doing HDCP right.
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Aug 14, 2014 20:05
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Ouhei posted:What about on the new setup? Or is ARC a better option. Ideally I'd like to control the volume through the TV so I don't have to have the 2nd remote laying around. ARC would in theory work with the volume, but I've never had much luck with it. What I did is just use my tivo remote for everything and tell the Tivo remote to control the soundbar volume (I'm using optical.) Unless you use your literal TV remote, you can maybe set that up somehow.
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Aug 21, 2014 14:46
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GreenNight posted:Check Monoprice and read the reviews. People are pretty good about saying if something is poo poo. I've mounted a dozen TV's and just make sure you mount them to studs. Don't trust hollow wall fasteners. You can get away with hollow wall fasteners on one side if you don't have a stud on the other side, but at least one side needs to be studs. I had a million pound 50" plasma from like 2006 mounted above my fireplace like that and it stayed up fine. Due to how the studs were I was only able to use a single one with the anchors on the other side. If you get good anchors, I think that's safe. Both sides with wall anchors though would be an absolute no.
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Sep 2, 2014 15:51
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Ouhei posted:I can now confirm that it is not just the PS4, as it happened over Netflix via the TV's app. I've contanted Panasonic about it and they had me reset the sound system which seemed to help but it's happening randomly again. I've swapped out HDMI cables to see if that was the problem but the problem persists. I'd ideally like to keep using ARC since it allows me to auto on the sound system and control it's volume with the TV remote. I still maintain you may be able to program the remote to control the soundbar directly, treating it as an AV device. Some remotes allow you to do that, and any aftermarket one will. Ones that come with cable boxes especially will.
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Sep 8, 2014 15:24
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Sagebrush posted:The weirdest thing is happening to my Samsung TV. (UNH6350, 48 inches). Connected to my computer through HDMI, it works perfectly. All the video and sound is perfect. I can access all the TV settings through the menu and everything. When I load the Smart Hub app, it also works fine. Boot up the Netflix app, load a TV show, and...there's sound, but no video. And I mean video, not picture; there are captions synchronized with the sound, but on a black screen. The same thing happens with the YouTube app -- no actual video but the sound is there. Nothing ever shows up no matter how long I leave it. Press Return and the picture shows up again as I go back to the browse screen. My samsung plasma has poo poo like that all the time. Usually unplugging it for a bit fixes poo poo.
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Sep 9, 2014 14:27
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I have a vizio soundbar under my Samsung plasma in the living room. It works great, and I set the TiVo remote to control it as an AV receiver.
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Sep 22, 2014 02:40
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Canuckistan posted:Looking for a good TV where number one priority is minimal problems watching ice hockey. OLED is out due to price. Ice hockey needs even lighting. My old panasonic plasma from ~2006 was perfect as far as how hockey looked. When I bought a Samsung plasma in ~2011 or so, it was lousy - very very obvious "mottling" where the whites were uneven that was super super visible during high motion with a white background. I think it was probably a bad panel, but still. On my 2014 Sharp 70UQ17U which is an edge-lit LED, it looks pretty decent. All the mottling on that TV is really only noticeable on black backgrounds and not white ones. So based on this very limited dataset you should either get an expensive plasma (the samsung I have is kind of a lovely one) or a decent LED TV. I think in general most LED TVs will have their lighting problems with blacks and not whites and will therefore handle hockey better in general than a plasma, but I'm far from an expert. As far as the 120hz asepct goes, mine is 240 and I haven't noticed any annoying motion blur type issues. The plasma inherently does not have said issues, so it wins on that front. Really if they'd make huge plasmas for a reasonable price with good quality control I'd buy plasmas for the rest of my life. Disclaimer: I watch 1-2 hockey games every night on GCL through boxee at one point, then x360, then xbone, but I don't know all that much about TVs.
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Sep 25, 2014 14:19
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Aphrodite posted:
GCL now does maybe not 60fps but something close to it. Maybe 48 or something. I haven't streamed anything since I bought this new TV, but it's definitely higher and much smoother than it used to be in the past. If the person asking the question is buying now I can't be much help but if they're waiting til the season starts I can report back. Edit: Obviously 48 will still lead to ghosting. Edit 2: Nothing says what it is so I filed a support request asking what it actually is. ssb fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Sep 25, 2014 |
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Sep 25, 2014 16:46
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shortspecialbus posted:GCL now does maybe not 60fps but something close to it. Maybe 48 or something. I haven't streamed anything since I bought this new TV, but it's definitely higher and much smoother than it used to be in the past. If the person asking the question is buying now I can't be much help but if they're waiting til the season starts I can report back. GCL support got back to me, 720p 30fps. It seemed a bit higher than that to me last year, but that's probably what it is.
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Sep 25, 2014 23:49
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