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I decided to try my hand at grinding a nib, and got a big sack of un-tipped Noodler's nibs. I'm happy with my first attempt: It also proved to be useful for screwing someone's glasses back together!
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Apr 24, 2015 00:48
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So im looking at grabbing a pilot or maybe a disposable to try fountian penning. Mostly I write notes and do digrams at work.. not writing in a journal I a tree sipping a caramel mochiato with a lether bound special pad. Is an fp going to work okay with good ole scrap paper (20lb printer paper) or good ole staples legal paper? Also I usually move stuff all around all the time on my desk so smudging is a concern... is a cheapo with cartridge going to dry like a pilot v5 style pen? Or am I looking at 5-10 min for dry time? tater_salad fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 00:49
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tater_salad posted:So im looking at grabbing a pilot or maybe a disposable to try fountian penning. Mostly I write notes and do digrams at work.. not writing in a journal I a tree sipping a caramel mochiato with a lether bound special pad. please post this as a hand-written request from your finest writing device.
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Apr 24, 2015 00:59
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What if I use my phones stylus?
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Apr 24, 2015 01:08
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tater_salad posted:What if I use my phones stylus? that only works with the blood of a virgin so you should probably get yourself well-hydrated and identify a good vein in your arm ahead of time
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Apr 24, 2015 01:42
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So when do the pen related questions get answered? 1. Is normal paper okay or will an fp bleed through? 2. Dry time for normal fp ink? Is it normal or is it long? My plan is to get a cheapo disposable fp then get a metro if I like fps I tend to diagram out a lot of stuff and shuffle papers around quickly after writing is this an issue?
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Apr 24, 2015 01:53
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tater_salad posted:So when do the pen related questions get answered? I've had no trouble with any of my pens (Safari, Metro, Kaweco sport, Vac 700) with the copier paper from my school (standard 20lb stuff). It's not as nice to use as more expensive stuff (not as smooth) but no bleedthrough, feathering or any other trouble. I take notes on it all the time. The usual problem I have with cheap lined paper is that I can only use one side because it shows through too much on the other side. On regular paper I've had no problems with dry times, and I'm left handed. As for what to get, just go right to the metro. It's still cheap enough that if you find you hate fountain pens you won't be out that much. And trust me, you won't hate it. The problem will be when you go and get hooked on them.
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Apr 24, 2015 02:15
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tater_salad posted:So when do the pen related questions get answered? Normal paper is fine and drying time should only be a few seconds at best. Heavier nibs and wetter inks increase the time, however.
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Apr 24, 2015 02:18
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tater_salad posted:So when do the pen related questions get answered? 1. I don't notice bleedthrough on notebooks I've picked up from Staples, but I write with a few decent, starter level pens (Lamy Safari, Pilot 78G). 2. Dry time is going to depend on a bunch of factors and the biggest will be paper quality and pen wetness. With my own it doesn't take more than maybe 5 seconds after I've written a word. If you're going to write with a cheapo disposable like a Pilot Varsity, I think you're going to notice problems with bleed through on bad paper and long dry times because they tend to be very wet writers to compensate for people just not knowing how to use them. I'll echo the advice above - picking up a Metropolitan for ~$15 is a better idea than picking up any disposable ones because it'll give you an idea of what fountain pens are REALLY like.
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Apr 24, 2015 02:18
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My medium metro was a bit too wet for regular paper, but my fine one is perfect and the dry times are extremely quick on normal paper.
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Apr 24, 2015 02:21
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Thanks for the replies.. will toss a medium metro on my list for next time I go shopping around. I was worried about drytimes as I saw some stuff above where someone mentioned 20min for their special snowflake ink. I was planning on getting a fine point nib, I like the finest tips I can find for pens.
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Apr 24, 2015 02:28
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tater_salad posted:Thanks for the replies.. will toss a medium metro on my list for next time I go shopping around. If you like fine points, don't get the medium metro, go for the fine instead. It's a noticeable difference and I don't really like the medium at all.
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Apr 24, 2015 02:47
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I typed medium but brain thought fine.
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Apr 24, 2015 02:50
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Soylent Yellow posted:Yes on both counts. You have an air gap somewhere in the feed system. If I was a betting man I'd say that the opening on the cartridge is just slightly too large for the post on your Pilot
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Apr 24, 2015 07:32
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tater_salad posted:Thanks for the replies.. will toss a medium metro on my list for next time I go shopping around. 20 minute drying time is garbage, or more likely some crazy calligraphy ink used for making your own master calligraphy certificate....dammit, I know this is a thing but for the life of me I can't find any examples at the moment. Anyway the thread's covered your inquiries: thinner is better for drying times, and maybe find an ink that specifies that it dries quickly if it's a major problem. I think most of the stuff I have dries in like 3~5 seconds on fancy paper. Also I use Staples notepads at work all the time...or Office Max, whatever. You should be fine.
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Apr 24, 2015 14:58
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GoldenNugget posted:I'm thinking of getting a Sheaffer tuckaway. Anything I should know about before I start bidding? I'm seeing them around 50-100 bucks. Be weary of un-restored vac-fills. They are much more expensive/difficult/nightmarish to restore than the touchdown system that replaced them. If you receive an un-restored vac-fill and it seems to work, have it serviced anyway. It will absolutely fail at some point and ruin your nice white dress shirt. I have no idea if sheaffer ever made a lever-fill tuckaway, but if they did, it will likely follow the same pattern as the full-sized ones: more expensive and easier to restore than the vac versions.
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Apr 24, 2015 15:26
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GoldenNugget posted:I'm thinking of getting a Sheaffer tuckaway. Anything I should know about before I start bidding? I'm seeing them around 50-100 bucks. They don't hold that much ink compared to modern pens. I do love the triumph nibs though. Very pretty. Restoration may be needed to be factored in if you're going to the EBay route.
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Apr 24, 2015 23:31
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Thanks for the advice. I really like the form factor and nib on the tuckaway but the maintenance seems a bit too much  . Maybe I'll just go ahead and get that red wood vanishing point I'm thinking of getting.
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Apr 25, 2015 02:59
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GoldenNugget posted:Thanks for the advice. I really like the form factor and nib on the tuckaway but the maintenance seems a bit too much Same with lever-fillers had lovely nibs but I'd waste so much water getting ink out of them. I tried my best but I'd get buyers reminding me I should empty my pens each time... VP has the odd clip placement too.
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Apr 25, 2015 03:30
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Noodler's Black-red has an awful dry time. Has a  sorta feel.
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Apr 26, 2015 05:10
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So I'm trying to see how I get go about getting a stub nib for a vanishing point. My current dilemma is that I want to get a wood vanishing point on ebay and it seems like they are only in EF, F, and M. I sent an e-mail to the Indy-Pen-Dance people who apparently trained under Richard Binder who is known for doing VP nibs but retired. They said that if I wanted a 0.6mm I would have to get a broad nib, which isn't available for the wood vanishing point that I want to get on ebay. In addition I would have to send the body of the pen with the nib. 1) Is a 0.6mm stub a good size? I am worried about capacity issues. I do have a 0.6mm nemosine which is a good writer but uses a lot of ink. Is 0.6mm practical for a VP or should I go smaller, something like 0.4-0.5mm? 2) Is it really necessary to send the body of the pen with the nib? They said something about alignment issues. Or should I just buy a preground nib and have two nibs? edit: I decided to get the M nib vanishing point. I figure 0.5mm isn't that much different from 0.6mm. Any recommendations on grey ink? I saw some amazing ink today at work with a light grey with a slight ting of blue with some amazing dark shading. I have no idea what it could be though. GoldenNugget fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Apr 30, 2015 |
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Apr 27, 2015 22:10
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This looks kind of interesting; she's trying to kick-start a modernized glass nib pen. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/173263176/winkpens-write-with-wine-juice-or-tea-get-creative Although I'm having a hard time figuring out how she managed to spend $13,000 designing this only to end up with something that's compression fit and will spew ink everywhere whenever you jostle the end cap. I'd be really interested to see how good of a job her coupler does at securing the nib. Edit: Oh yeah, it also doesn't come with a cap so enjoy constantly having your pen dry out requiring you clean it all the time. Krailor fucked around with this message at 02:04 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 01:56
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She mentions in the comments that the design is based around using "raw" inks that will spoil and doesn't recommend leaving ink in the pen, so didn't bother making a cap so people wouldn't be encouraged to leave their nasty food-based ink to go rancid inside the pen 
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May 1, 2015 02:22
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It looks like some of her rewards are drawings done with wine. Just use ink, god drat lady.
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May 1, 2015 02:34
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I would love a glass pen that wasn't designed up its own rear end to use wine or urine instead of ink and based on the philosophy "I don't want to be able to read what I wrote down in the future." With how desirable archival inks are, it's interesting that someone went and made the opposite of that. 
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May 1, 2015 02:47
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Why not just use one of the several brands of glass dip pens available if you want to use non-inks?
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May 1, 2015 02:54
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pienipple posted:Why not just use one of the several brands of glass dip pens available if you want to use non-inks? Because none of the several brands of glass dip pens available donate to her kickstarter.
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May 1, 2015 03:01
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Well, I finally got reunited with my Pilot Falcon from the massdrop last year (I sent it to a friend in NY and I only went there last mont), and hooooooooly gently caress it's amazing. I don't have 20 pens like some of you guys, but it's the smoothest writer I have by a long shot; the flex is not as pronounced as I would have hoped, which I knew going in, but I don't care, this thing is a loving joy to write with. Oh, I also managed to nab a Seven Seas Standard journal which I'm saving for a project. Which reminds me, I went through the thread waiting to see you guys whooping at Goulet now carrying Tomoe River paper. Now, weird question: does anyone know any fountain pen friendly music paper? My 1.5 lamy italic nib is loving great as a music nib but the music notebook I have has the shittiest paper ever and if feathers horribly so I can't use it. I know moleskine has a music notebook, but I was hoping for something a wee bit better, paper-wise.
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May 1, 2015 04:28
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Finally got around to putting a Jowo #6 into my Kaigelu 316 and the improvement is drastic. Once I sort out replacing those super-heavy finials with lighter acrylic ones, it'll be a drat Fine Pen.
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May 1, 2015 13:59
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Have a metro coming tomorrow. Any recommendations for black ink? Also should I get a twist converter, stick with the press plate or use syringes to refill the cartridge it comes with?
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May 1, 2015 14:01
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Edmond Dantes posted:Well, I finally got reunited with my Pilot Falcon from the massdrop last year (I sent it to a friend in NY and I only went there last mont), and hooooooooly gently caress it's amazing. I don't have 20 pens like some of you guys, but it's the smoothest writer I have by a long shot; the flex is not as pronounced as I would have hoped, which I knew going in, but I don't care, this thing is a loving joy to write with. Just use printer paper, you can find music templates to print out the staff. Like print off one page and see how that goes, then get heavier paper if you need it or whatever. I haven't had any issues with my 1.5 lamy writing on just regular printer paper though ymmv.
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May 1, 2015 14:41
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tater_salad posted:Have a metro coming tomorrow. Do you want a pitch black or a grey with shading? Noodler's Bulletproof Black is a good black that is permanent and is just black with no shading. It's also kind of boring but does its job well on copy paper. People also like Noodler's Heart of Darkness. There are a lot of pretty greys out there with shading that I'm trying to figure out what to get right now. Got some samples coming in to test out. The press plate works alright but hard to tell how much is in it and it's not quite efficient. The twist converted doesn't hold that much but you can see how much is left. The cartridges work well and hold more. You can refill them but it seems a bit tricky which I'm also trying to figure out for my incoming VP.
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May 1, 2015 21:57
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Edmond Dantes posted:Now, weird question: does anyone know any fountain pen friendly music paper? My 1.5 lamy italic nib is loving great as a music nib but the music notebook I have has the shittiest paper ever and if feathers horribly so I can't use it. I know moleskine has a music notebook, but I was hoping for something a wee bit better, paper-wise. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BB5DJU6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 + your laser printer of choice has served me really well. I haven't had it feather with any medium nibs, or the bigass (I forget what the actual size is, the biggest one) pilot parallel
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May 2, 2015 08:17
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Brightman posted:Just use printer paper, you can find music templates to print out the staff. Like print off one page and see how that goes, then get heavier paper if you need it or whatever. I haven't had any issues with my 1.5 lamy writing on just regular printer paper though ymmv. Swagger Dagger posted:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BB5DJU6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 + your laser printer of choice has served me really well. I haven't had it feather with any medium nibs, or the bigass (I forget what the actual size is, the biggest one) pilot parallel That... makes sense; I didn't even thought of printing the drat things. I don't have a printer at home, but I can get a friend to print some for me. Cheers!
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May 2, 2015 14:20
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GoldenNugget posted:So I'm trying to see how I get go about getting a stub nib for a vanishing point. 1) It's fine but line variation will be less noticeable on small stubs. The 0.6 on the Nemosine is closer to the 1.1 stub on a Lamy. drat I think I have a comparison of all my stub nibs scanned somewhere. 2) Depends on you. I always ask jic the nibmeister has a odd preference or not. I like sending the entire pen as then they can test write it after. IIRC R.Binder sells custom VP grinds at pen shows. The down side is having too many nibs vs pens... Source: spent too much $ on custom nibs
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May 2, 2015 15:17
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Welp pilot metropolitan came today and its pretty good so far.. feels just like wtiting with the pilot v2s that I use all the time. Was a bit disappointed with the pressplate converter it came with.. its an internal ruber diaphragm with a metal bar you push to compress and suck up the ink, but hey it was 13bux. When I'm low on ink going to grab a bottle of pilot black. Any suggestions on storing the ink? will it hold up just capping and leaving in my desk? 60ml of ink willl last me a really long time I think probably a year or more. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 18:46 on May 2, 2015 |
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May 2, 2015 18:19
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As long as you're not leaving your pens unused for something like a month you don't need to do anything special
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May 2, 2015 19:02
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You're asking about storing it in the jar? Keep it at room temp out of sunlight (i.e., a drawer). It'll be fine.
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May 2, 2015 19:04
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guppy posted:You're asking about storing it in the jar? Keep it at room temp out of sunlight (i.e., a drawer). It'll be fine. Yeah storing in the jar. Thats good that it'll be fine in dark/room temp. Plan was to store in the drawer in my cube.
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May 2, 2015 19:52
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Alder posted:1) It's fine but line variation will be less noticeable on small stubs. The 0.6 on the Nemosine is closer to the 1.1 stub on a Lamy. drat I think I have a comparison of all my stub nibs scanned somewhere. So a 0.6mm VP stub by Binder is much less than a 0.6mm on a Nemosine? Anyway I just got my VP here and it's amazing with a M nib. http://imgur.com/a/8u1W3
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May 2, 2015 20:52
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