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As most of you are aware, I'm one of those insane "DSM guys". My second car was a 1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD, which I ended up blowing the motor on one month before it was paid off. Since I'm a glutton for punishment, my next car was a 1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD, fully loaded with basically every factory option, in "Wildberry" (it's loving purple). I owned and drove the car for 12 years, until someone decided to plow in to it in February:     Initial repair estimate was around $12000, which is roughly twice what the car is probably worth. Insurance said a big "gently caress THAT" and totaled the car. Since I'm a glutton for punishment, I decided to take some of the property damage check and buy this:  On its way home:  At home:  Making the Talons kiss:  Yay, free garbage!  And apparently some free clothes:  And broken interior trim pieces!  Don't we all:  I guess this is one way to describe it:  I have no idea what the gently caress this is:  Damaged tint:  PATINA  Grab your V8? Hold on to your V8? I don't get it:  Some AWD "warning" sticker, and bonus peeling airbag cover:  Popped door lock cylinder, non-body color handles  More "patina"  LOLlag?  Really strange place for a very localized dent  Something that I think is an A/F meter in a really awesome custom mount  Totally custom non-recirc setup. Seriously, who installs a big turbo and uses the stock plastic BOV?  The infamous Home Depot MBC. I'll be using my Hallman instead.  I will never understand why people remove timing belt covers  I'll probably replace this with a ported stock manifold  A wideband O2 sensor controller  Welp, looks like the alternator belt didn't get installed quite right,...  Smoke-ish lenses  Full engine shot  I'm planning to do work on this in several phases: Phase 1: -Pull engines from both cars, swap transmissions, install my 1997 motor in the 1995 car and basically return it to stock mechanically to make it a running car. Will also put A/C and cruise control back in, I wanna be comfortable. Install poly engine and motor mounts. -Swap door handles so they're body color, swap fuel door with body color. -Fix driver's side door so it opens from the outside handle. Get lock cylinder on passenger side reinstalled (it's popped in). -Install/replace interior pieces that are missing/broken/not installed. -Fix trunk release pull so I can actually open the trunk from inside the car. -REMOVE SILLY REAR WING, and send to a certain person. -Install my kickin' rad stereo so I can listen to music. -Install short-throw shifter. -Swap over my wheels. I'll probably put snow tires on the wheels currently on the car. Phase 2: -Acquire 2GB bumpers, install, have paint-matched to car. -Fix clear coat in bad sections. -Remove the awesome chrome from the wheel wells, it's just too much awesome for me to handle. -Have my 2GB wing refreshed/repainted and installed. Have unused holes on trunk filled, have the trunk repainted. -Fix, redo, or remove tinting. -Remove the silly stickers. This is just a possible order after this, I may move things around. Phase 3: -Remove subframe and suspension bits from the 1997, install new balljoints and poly bushings. Swap subframe in with new shocks/springs. Phase 4: -Rebuild/repair the 6-bolt motor, reinstall with a DSMLink so I can have full tuning control. -Rebuild transmission, probably with Evolution internals. -Evolution brake swap (it's easiest to replace the brake booster and such with the engine out of the car). Phase 5: -Repair/recover leather and install. Phase 6: ??????
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Mar 25, 2014 07:20
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It's a good thing you're pretty much just using that car as a doner shell. That drivetrain was treated badly, but at least they used a wideband and didn't just turn up the boost and hope. The bad news is that chrome trim was probably put on to cover up rust. The mystery port looks like some sort of antenna mount. Edit: Oh, I see in the other DSM thread you already went in knowing the issues with it. At first it looked like a "My first project" that was going to go real badly. craig588 fucked around with this message at 11:26 on Mar 25, 2014 |
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Mar 25, 2014 11:17
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If you are looking for various bits and pieces and can't find them locally, let me know. I have a bunch of random things from previous part outs lying around.
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Mar 25, 2014 13:54
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I think that trunk dent is from backing into something like a wall-mounted pole or loading dock bumper.
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Mar 25, 2014 15:27
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MikeyTsi posted:The infamous Home Depot MBC. I'll be using my Hallman instead. Found your problem, the car would be 1000% working if it had a plug wire. 
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Mar 25, 2014 15:48
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I'm not gonna lie here, we're probably talking borderline fatal amounts of whiskey before we get this thing running.
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Mar 25, 2014 16:22
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It has to be more than a coincidence... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagnostic_and_Statistical_Manual_of_Mental_Disorders
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Mar 25, 2014 16:41
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More like BDSM, amirite?
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Mar 25, 2014 17:50
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craig588 posted:It's a good thing you're pretty much just using that car as a doner shell. That drivetrain was treated badly, but at least they used a wideband and didn't just turn up the boost and hope. The bad news is that chrome trim was probably put on to cover up rust. The mystery port looks like some sort of antenna mount. From what I understand the owner prior to the person I bought it from probably just put the chrome trim (and the wing) on because they thought it looked cool. I didn't see any rust on the inside of the arches so I think it'll be fine. If there's an issue in there though I'll deal with it when I get there. It's spent its entire life over here on the West Coast though, so I think if there were rust issues I would've seen it in my general inspection. The 6-bolt has rod knock, which is why it's coming out. My 7-bolt motor is pretty much perfect (original engine, never cracked it, and the last compression test showed it as about 5PSI off of factory spec), so it'll be a good runner until I finish rebuilding the 6-bolt.
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Mar 25, 2014 21:35
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th vwls hv scpd posted:If you are looking for various bits and pieces and can't find them locally, let me know. I have a bunch of random things from previous part outs lying around. Thanks. I think I've got someone local that has what I need at present, but here's a list just in case: 2GB front and rear bumpers (I think I'll be getting Octopus Magic's old set, he still has them) Driver side rear seat interior panel (I used the wrong gorilla glue when I was fixing the grille on the 1997 one so you can see white poo poo on the surround. The 1995 is missing this piece) Passenger side and rear trunk trim panels (broken on both the 97 and the 95) Privacy shelf particle board cover for the spare tire and the attachment hinges/brackets The black plastic pieces that go under the spare tire cover I think that's all I need for now. Most of the interior stuff that I'd be missing from the 1995 are fortunately on the 1997 and not destroyed.
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Mar 25, 2014 21:40
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keykey posted:Found your problem, the car would be 1000% working if it had a plug wire. I KNEW it was probably something simple,.... 
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Mar 25, 2014 21:43
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13 INCH DICK posted:I'm not gonna lie here, we're probably talking borderline fatal amounts of whiskey before we get this thing running. We'll be making booze runs before, during, and after all work sessions. As a bonus, we can use it to sterilize the wounds the car will be giving us.
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Mar 25, 2014 21:44
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MikeyTsi posted:Thanks. I think I've got someone local that has what I need at present, but here's a list just in case: I think I have most of those interior plastics. I'll need yo check over the garage and see what's in that attic the next time I'm at my grandmother's.
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Mar 25, 2014 23:05
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Lots of work ahead of you that's for sure! I've been looking for something like this, but one of my dream project cars is an old turbo mirage with a 4g63 and awd swap. Also, what's wrong with the exhaust manifold?
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Mar 26, 2014 03:38
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mafoose posted:Lots of work ahead of you that's for sure! I've been looking for something like this, but one of my dream project cars is an old turbo mirage with a 4g63 and awd swap. Not sure how quality a part it is, plus having the exhaust manifold uncovered like that radiates a lot of heat in to the things next to it, which is bad for the alternator specifically. it wouldn't be going back on until I sort out the 6-bolt and install it again anyway, so I've got time to decide if I want to use it or go with a ported Evo manifold and sell it.
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Mar 26, 2014 05:52
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FP cast manifolds are super cheap and worth it for the flow. I got mine for around 150 shipped with hardware used. There's also a guy who makes manifold blankets that keep all the heat in, which I've used with success.
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Mar 26, 2014 14:22
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Octopus Magic posted:FP cast manifolds are super cheap and worth it for the flow. I got mine for around 150 shipped with hardware used. There's also a guy who makes manifold blankets that keep all the heat in, which I've used with success. My knowledge with the manifold blankets is that they also keep the moisture in, which results in your nice manifolds rusting the gently caress out. Has that particular issue been resolved?
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Mar 26, 2014 22:30
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MikeyTsi posted:My knowledge with the manifold blankets is that they also keep the moisture in, which results in your nice manifolds rusting the gently caress out. Has that particular issue been resolved? How would it keep moisture other than unless the car sat for a very, very long time (which it would probably dry out anyways). When you start the car, the manifold would heat up too much for any water to stick around.
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Mar 27, 2014 17:24
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MikeyTsi posted:
gently caressyour v8. Excited to see this thing unfold!
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Mar 27, 2014 21:16
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Octopus Magic posted:How would it keep moisture other than unless the car sat for a very, very long time (which it would probably dry out anyways). When you start the car, the manifold would heat up too much for any water to stick around. Oxidization can occur over a period of time. What I saw/read happening was that as the vehicle cooled down wraps/blankets would take on moisture, and having that moisture touching manifolds was causing oxidization.
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Mar 27, 2014 21:44
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MikeyTsi posted:Oxidization can occur over a period of time. It's a 16 pound piece of cast iron. By the time you have to worry about rust effecting the performance of it, the last bits of gas will be warred over by China and the US and A. Store in a cool dry place.
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Mar 27, 2014 22:12
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Evo 8 and 9 exhaust manifolds were rusting on the lot due to the vent in the hood. It's really not that big of a deal.
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Mar 28, 2014 00:04
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Esurance's adjuster contacted my adjuster, it looks like the value they came to was $5500, $500 off of my adjuster's value and my original demand to Esurance. The adjusters are just going to split the difference and tell Esurance to pay me $5700 plus tax/title/license. On one hand, I'm kind of pissed that I had to spend 1.5 months and $350 out of pocket to get Esurance to do their job. On the other hand it's kind of amusing that they likely spent a considerable sum to "save" $200 or so. I'm thinking that I'd be well served upgrading the alternator to an HO unit when I'm doing the engine swap, the DSM charging system is pretty marginal stock, and I've got a stereo and some other things that will be likely drawing more power. I'm thinking something like 150A would probably be fine, unless there's a recommendation to go with more; does anyone have any suggestions on a good alternator with a minimum (or no) modification needed to install? I understand I'm going to have to run a new power wire from the alternator to handle the extra current safely.
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Mar 31, 2014 23:57
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2.4L Galant alternator is 124A and direct fit I believe.
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Apr 1, 2014 03:26
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th vwls hv scpd posted:2.4L Galant alternator is 124A and direct fit I believe. I wonder if that'll be enough. I'll have to check what the general draw is for my amplifier and powered sub and go from there, I think.
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Apr 1, 2014 20:12
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MikeyTsi posted:I wonder if that'll be enough. I'll have to check what the general draw is for my amplifier and powered sub and go from there, I think. The other option is the Saturn alternator, but that requires clearancing the block. Shouldn't be too bad since you are swapping motors though.
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Apr 1, 2014 20:31
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FWIW, I have a ~105 amp alternator (from the factory) and have absolutely no issues with a "1100 watt" (probably more like 500 peak) amp and 12" sub. The lights might just barely flicker at idle if I fire up some dubstep with the a/c on. Not a DSM obviously, but it cranks out enough power to keep the car happy, even with electric power steering and a decent sub.
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Apr 2, 2014 10:38
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Stock alternators are 90A with terrible wiring. I think it has 2 12 gauge wires that run from the alternator to the battery. My voltage drops rolling the windows down.
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Apr 2, 2014 15:43
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I wish I had 40A  Gonna try to make it over there dude, know I bailed on you last weekend but it was really hectic.
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Apr 2, 2014 18:10
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I'm not trying to be a dick but my first thought was "I hope it was free" when I saw it in the post your ride pics thread.
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Apr 2, 2014 21:28
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13 INCH DICK posted:I wish I had 40A Your car continues to have the cutest little everything. My motorcycle's alternator has a significantly larger output (60A) although my bike might actually be bigger and certainly has far more electronics so that's probably not surprising.
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Apr 2, 2014 22:47
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13 INCH DICK posted:I wish I had 40A Yeah, I know. On the one hand I want to start working on it. On the other, I want to start it with you there before I start tearing it apart so we can capture audio of you giggling like a maniac for posterity. Maybe I'll start working on the doors/fuel door/interior stuff; I need to swap the handles across, fix the driver's side handle, the passenger side lock cylinder; and I could install my short-throw shifter and do a few other random things.
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Apr 2, 2014 23:13
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dreesemonkey posted:I'm not trying to be a dick but my first thought was "I hope it was free" when I saw it in the post your ride pics thread. "I'm not trying to be a dick but,..." typically has the same result as "Now, I don't want to sound racist but,..."
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Apr 2, 2014 23:14
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MikeyTsi posted:"I'm not trying to be a dick but,..." typically has the same result as "Now, I don't want to sound racist but,..." Sorry, not making GBS threads on your project, I've always liked DSMs. I was just in awe in the previous owner's series of poor decisions (chrome trim, spoiler, stickers, wheels, etc), looks straight out of 2002. I will be following with enthusiasm
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Apr 3, 2014 01:34
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The big three upgrade will definitely help out the charging system http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1
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Apr 3, 2014 02:22
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I upgraded my 1G Eclipse alternator to the Galant VR4 back in the day. Direct bolt-on. All you need to change is the fusible link, forget which one.
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Apr 3, 2014 02:30
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dreesemonkey posted:Sorry, not making GBS threads on your project, I've always liked DSMs. I was just in awe in the previous owner's series of poor decisions (chrome trim, spoiler, stickers, wheels, etc), looks straight out of 2002. Well, his and the previous previous owner. The previous owner is just the one that did questionable engine work/upgrades, he blames the person before him for the spoiler and the chrome trim. The wheels will probably be usable as winter rims, we'll see.
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Apr 3, 2014 09:26
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Super Aggro Crag posted:I upgraded my 1G Eclipse alternator to the Galant VR4 back in the day. Direct bolt-on. All you need to change is the fusible link, forget which one. I don't know if that's going to be big enough. My stereo is ~40A by itself, as far as the fuse ratings, so I'm going to need to add a bit more than 25A I'm thinking.
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Apr 3, 2014 09:27
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MikeyTsi posted:I don't know if that's going to be big enough. My stereo is ~40A by itself, as far as the fuse ratings, so I'm going to need to add a bit more than 25A I'm thinking. Fuse ratings and actual draw are two quite different things. Are you going to be running the radio at full blast while also running the wipers, high beams, rally driving lights, defroster, and heated seats? Seems like 125A with upgraded wiring would be enough, maybe add a capacitor if you're seeing significant voltage drop at the stereo.
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Apr 3, 2014 15:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:Fuse ratings and actual draw are two quite different things. Are you going to be running the radio at full blast while also running the wipers, high beams, rally driving lights, defroster, and heated seats? Capacitors are a lovely band-aid for a poorly designed electrical system, I refuse to use them. And I think you missed the earlier talk where the DSM alternator is marginal at best with stock load; I'd see a dip in my lighting at idle at night when I had wipers and A/C going to defrost the windshield. I'll probably see if I can locate a 150A direct-fit just to be safe, that should be plenty for my needs.
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Apr 3, 2014 19:47
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