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MikeyTsi posted:Capacitors are a lovely band-aid for a poorly designed electrical system, I refuse to use them. As an EE who remembers the rules on placing decoupling capacitors on boards, I have no problem with capacitors in an audio system  They should not be used to make up for under-sized wiring, but you're always going to get a bit of a voltage drop under peak load no matter what size wiring you use and a capacitor can help solve that problem. To put it another way, a capacitor on a power rail is like a flywheel on an engine. Sure, you can do without it, airplanes do all the time, but you're going to have to upgrade everything between the engine and the propeller (reduction gearboxes, driveshafts, etc) to a fairly ridiculous factor of safety because it'll shake the poo poo out of all that stuff when it doesn't need to be that way. Unless you need the space/weight savings of eliminating a capacitor, I'd run one. This looks like my kind of project... dive in head first with a parts car on hand and you clearly know what you're doing with DSMs already. Good luck.
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Apr 4, 2014 00:35
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He's just made about capacitors because DSM ECUs had such bad ones! I also love capacitors, they are not just bandaids. Decouple everything you can!
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Apr 4, 2014 00:38
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kastein posted:As an EE who remembers the rules on placing decoupling capacitors on boards, I have no problem with capacitors in an audio system People use them as lovely band-aids on car audio systems all the time instead of upgrading the alternator like they should. I mean, if I was running some competition system I could see the value in having some capacitors for when hitting peak load in those cases, but for what I'm doing it's just a waste and fixes the wrong problem. Couple that with the cost, and that it's the charging system in total and not just the audio draw that's an issue; and I should be spending that money on just a better alternator instead. From what I've read on upgrades, I'll just need to run a secondary/replacement power wire from the alternator to the main distribution block and install an appropriate-rated fuse. [quote="DJ Commie" post="427837927""] He's just made about capacitors because DSM ECUs had such bad ones! [/quote] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAfuckyou.  Fortunately I didn't actually have the same problems other folks had with that, I got the caps on my 1G replaced before they started leaking enough to damage the ECU. MikeyTsi fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Apr 4, 2014 |
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Apr 4, 2014 19:21
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As a sort-of update, I actually kind of did something with the car this week; I pulled off the interior door cards so I could check their condition (the switches are showing the typical "I'm breaking and need to be glued" symptoms, and I wanted to try to find out what the issue was with the driver's side exterior handle and why the passenger-side lock cylinder is popped out). The door cards are a bit rough, and I'm starting to consider just swapping the doors, since my door internals all work, it'll save me some effort as far as having to deal with some of the molding, speakers, etc. I want to move over, my passenger door doesn't have the clearcoat issues the other car has, and I think my actual locks might be in better condition as well. I'm going to see about swapping the fuel filler door over from my car first to check color-match before I go through the trouble of yanking the doors off. From there I'll make a decision.
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Apr 4, 2014 19:26
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MikeyTsi posted:And I think you missed the earlier talk where the DSM alternator is marginal at best with stock load; I'd see a dip in my lighting at idle at night when I had wipers and A/C going to defrost the windshield. Oh I got that, I just thought the ~125A bolt-on alt was still an upgrade over whatever the DSM already has? If it's not, then upgrading wiring is going to help more than upgrading the alt alone.
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Apr 4, 2014 19:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:Oh I got that, I just thought the ~125A bolt-on alt was still an upgrade over whatever the DSM already has? If it's not, then upgrading wiring is going to help more than upgrading the alt alone. 125A would definitely be an upgrade, I'm just not sure it's enough. I'd rather spend an extra few bucks and not have to worry about it. Yeah, any upgrade above 100A requires upgrading the wiring from the alternator.
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Apr 4, 2014 19:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:Oh I got that, I just thought the ~125A bolt-on alt was still an upgrade over whatever the DSM already has? If it's not, then upgrading wiring is going to help more than upgrading the alt alone. Sure, but if stock is 90A, a 500W amp on 14V is gonna be drawing about 36, so that'll put you at roughly 130. That would work fine for peak load, but running an alternator at its max output all the time is going to shorten its life; if you can get a 140/150A alt for not too much, why not? This is taking for granted that he's fixing the wiring, mind.
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Apr 4, 2014 19:33
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Fucknag posted:Sure, but if stock is 90A, a 500W amp on 14V is gonna be drawing about 36, so that'll put you at roughly 130. That would work fine for peak load, but running an alternator at its max output all the time is going to shorten its life; if you can get a 140/150A alt for not too much, why not? I also have a powered sub (Infinity Basslink) that will be drawing load. Plus extra gauges are in the works. And I'll want a bigger fuel pump, etc. Plus I will do HIDs (properly, I promise) in the future. Yes, I will be upgrading the wiring from the alternator to the distribution point. As far as the car audio, I'll be running proper feed (I think 4-gauge was sufficient), from the battery to the rear where the amps are (I'll have a fuse within about 6 inches of the battery like I did before). In the rear I have a (fused) distribution block so I can split that power feed in to two for both amps. Both amps run to a common ground at one of the rear seat anchor points, it's a nice big bolt and gives me a really good chassis ground.
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Apr 4, 2014 20:34
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13" decided to come by for a bit today and fart all over my property, so we decided to mess with the car a bit. Got it started, it's down a cylinder. No spark from the wire. We swapped over the coil pack (and then had fun figuring out how to get it running again since it's a 1G motor in a 2G), still dead. After the fact I spoke to the previous owner who explained that there's apparently a "loose pin" in the wiring harness for the ECU that's causing that; so another thing to track down and fix apparently. I'll probably jiggle the ECU a bit tomorrow and see if I can get it started. Compression check numbers: 130 140 135 140 So, okay I guess, but not great. Doesn't really matter, with the rest of the stuff done with this, I think the best way is going to be to yank everything out and start from scratch/stock anyway. I'm going to start disconnecting and pulling things out next week as I have time. Choice quote from 13": "I'm kind of concerned that I'm going to be enabling you by helping you with this". I only had a few "what the hell did OI get myself in to" moments today; I'm not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing. On the rear trunklid, it looks like my trunklid "isn't that bad", so I may just swap the whole drat thing over and have the minor damage repaired rather than try to fix the one with the kickin' rad wing. While we were messing with the car I decided to de-chrome it a bit:     I need to clean the crap off, but it looks like everything is fine underneath, so that's a positive. MikeyTsi fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Apr 7, 2014 |
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Apr 7, 2014 04:24
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Decided that since I'm going to attempt to swap doors and locks from the '97, I'm going to go ahead and change over my dash lighting while I'm at it (since I'll have to dig in to the steering column to replace that lock, and one of the "pain in the rear end" lights is in there and will be easy to change out then). Going with some nice cobalt blue ones from superbrightleds.com. Factory fitment and they should match the coloring for my cobalt gauge and such nicely. Also put out some feelers for the other parts I know I immediately need as part of the work, I'd rather buy someone else's un/lightly used stuff rather than pay retail if I can manage it.
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Apr 8, 2014 22:51
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Sonsabitches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/310465429969?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Dear hebertsusedautoparts, Are you parting out the car that is in these pictures? - mikeytsi Dear mikeytsi, Yes - hebertsusedautoparts Dear hebertsusedautoparts, What condition are the front and rear bumpers in? Is that dirt on the front, or is that paint damage? - mikeytsi Dear mikeytsi, I'm sorry we dont ship bumpers at all. It is too costly. - hebertsusedautoparts "Too costly"? Really? Why not just pass the shipping cost on to me then?
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Apr 10, 2014 01:46
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http://millerimportparts.com/ Pretty sure he will ship anything you want if he has it.
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Apr 10, 2014 03:01
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th vwls hv scpd posted:http://millerimportparts.com/ The main reason I wanted those ones is that they're a paint match. Good ol' Octopus Magic has a set of 2GB bumpers that I'll buy and re-paint if I can't find ones in the right color. While we're on the subject of color,... I'm not able to get a whole lot done during the week, being that I get home maybe an hour or so before it gets dark, and that Washington is a big fan of random rain. However, tonight I did get one thing done: Old and busted:  New hotness:  Paint match looks pretty much perfect, which bodes rather well for my plans to swap the doors and hatch over. Those are a bit too heavy and unwieldy for me to do myself though, I'll need to get some assistance when I get those moved over.
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Apr 10, 2014 05:04
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That car is beat. to. poo poo. I'd say screw paint matching. The paint on those bumpers were trashed anyway. I'd just get the parts you need from whatever cars you can and save for a full paint job down the road.
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Apr 10, 2014 05:22
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BoostCreep posted:That car is beat. to. poo poo. I'd say screw paint matching. The paint on those bumpers were trashed anyway. I'd just get the parts you need from whatever cars you can and save for a full paint job down the road. The paint issues with the car are, with the exception of the rear quarter clearcoat, pieces that I'm going to be replacing from my car, especially since the paint is a match. I'm not really interested in spending $4000 on a re-paint if I don't have to, and I really don't think I have to.
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Apr 10, 2014 09:57
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A $4,000 paint job on a '97 Talon? Dude. Think a bit more about these numbers.
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Apr 11, 2014 18:30
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West SAAB Story posted:A $4,000 paint job on a '97 Talon? Dude. Think a bit more about these numbers. Agree, think of how awesome it will be!
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Apr 11, 2014 18:46
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West SAAB Story posted:A $4,000 paint job on a '97 Talon? Dude. Think a bit more about these numbers. How much do you think it costs to properly disassemble / blast / respray a car these days? I can attest to this on my truck - a $1k-in-2001-dollars paintjob will be so loving thin that looking at the paint will make it scratch, and that's laying it down on top of whatever is already there. $4k might be a bit on the high side but not by much.
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Apr 11, 2014 18:47
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That's why I'm just going to plasti-dip or vinyl wrap my car's lovely paint. Paint costs too much for a 16 year old econobox.
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Apr 11, 2014 19:08
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IOwnCalculus posted:How much do you think it costs to properly disassemble / blast / respray a car these days? I can attest to this on my truck - a $1k-in-2001-dollars paintjob will be so loving thin that looking at the paint will make it scratch, and that's laying it down on top of whatever is already there. $4k might be a bit on the high side but not by much. Its a loving Eagle Talon. No matter how much you love it, the car will never be worth that paint job again. Now look to the left of this post, and realize just how insane this whole thing is. Yes, I am acting as the voice of reason in this thread. Don't bother with the paint. Give it a simple single-stage shot when you put it up for sale. Shes' earned her battle scars.
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Apr 11, 2014 19:10
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Dude loves him some Talons, he's had the other one for forever and done all sorts of work to it. I'm pretty sure this delves into enthusiast territory, and he was never going to make money back on the first one. I support driving the car you love if you've accepted it's not for an investment and I'm gonna do what I can to get him back on the road.
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Apr 11, 2014 19:16
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13 INCH DICK posted:Dude loves him some Talons, he's had the other one for forever and done all sorts of work to it. "I don't want to repaint so I am just going to replace all body panels with those that look pretty close to the same color." This is not normal. Also, good to see that you will be getting a reliable ride (to wherever you're going). 
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Apr 11, 2014 19:20
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13 INCH DICK posted:Dude loves him some Talons, he's had the other one for forever and done all sorts of work to it. I'm pretty sure this delves into enthusiast territory, and he was never going to make money back on the first one. I support driving the car you love if you've accepted it's not for an investment and I'm gonna do what I can to get him back on the road. Agreed. If you are doing things to cars trying to make an investment or get your money back, you need to be a freelance mechanic, not a car owner. Do you like the car? Are you happy with how much money you're putting into it to make it how you want it? Alright, carry on then. You're going to lose money on it, but so are the rest of us.
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Apr 11, 2014 22:53
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West SAAB Story posted:"I don't want to repaint so I am just going to replace all body panels with those that look pretty close to the same color." This is not normal. Did you even look at the pictures I posted? For whatever reason, it looks like the paint on the wrecked car and the paint on the new car matches perfectly, there's no "pretty close" to it. Replacing the doors and the hatch means I don't have to worry about the hosed up clearcoat on the passenger door, the stupid poo poo previous owners did to the hatch, and saves me the time having to try to repair lock cylinders and other bullshit in the doors. All I'll need to deal with is the damaged clearcoat on the rear quarter (which should be relatively cheap to fix), and getting a set of 2GB bumpers painted.
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Apr 11, 2014 23:30
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13 INCH DICK posted:Dude loves him some Talons, he's had the other one for forever and done all sorts of work to it. I'm pretty sure this delves into enthusiast territory, and he was never going to make money back on the first one. I support driving the car you love if you've accepted it's not for an investment and I'm gonna do what I can to get him back on the road. 12 years. Owned the loving thing for 12 years. And I had a 1991 AWD before that.
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Apr 11, 2014 23:31
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MikeyTsi posted:Did you even look at the pictures I posted? For whatever reason, it looks like the paint on the wrecked car and the paint on the new car matches perfectly, there's no "pretty close" to it. No. I've never been to this point. It is entirely foreign and benign to me. I've never tried to match paint for a car that no longer exists, or try to find bits that will be a drop-in replacement. That is the base of fairy tales. Much like the Talon, itself. Never existed in real life.
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Apr 11, 2014 23:42
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Now that we've hopefully ended the sperg-fest about paint: Sourced a set of polyurethane engine/transmission mounts. Found a privacy shelf in excellent condition I should be picking up. Trying to track down a spare tire cover and mounting hardware, since the one in mine is (unsurprisingly) shot, and the one in the new car is also crap. A shop quoted $400 to repair my driver's side seat (leather). Screw that, I'm going to just find a replacement for probably a 1/4 of that cost. Trying to figure out if I'm trying to talk myself in to upgrading to EVO brakes while I'm doing this, it really is easiest (as in, not loving impossible) to replace the brake booster when the engine is out of the car. But I'm not sure I want to blow $1000 before I have the car moving under its own power. No luck yet finding a used HO alternator that's the spec I want, looks like I'll just have to bite the bullet and spend the $240 on a new one.
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Apr 11, 2014 23:42
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West SAAB Story posted:No. I've never been to this point. It is entirely foreign and benign to me. I've never tried to match paint for a car that no longer exists, or try to find bits that will be a drop-in replacement. That is the base of fairy tales. Much like the Talon, itself. Never existed in real life. Except that, as I noted, I already have bits that are a drop-in replacement? I just have no idea exactly what argument you're trying to make at this point.
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Apr 11, 2014 23:45
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Ignore the AI poo poo posters. You're re-shelling a car and lucked out that both cars match color. Get as much as you can moved over and enjoy the thing. I would be doing the same bloody thing if someone hit my RS.
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Apr 12, 2014 00:22
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Rock on dude! I keep throwing money at my "dumb" cars too! I have a turbo lime green 2 door Volvo, even after all the money and work, I doubt I'd be able to pull $2k if I sold it!
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Apr 12, 2014 00:24
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MikeyTsi posted:Except that, as I noted, I already have bits that are a drop-in replacement? "Why are you trying so hard to find bits that will paint match, kinda, when you have a plethora of other cheap parts available?" Slow is Fast posted:Ignore the AI poo poo posters. So, you won't exist either? Schrödinger would approve.
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Apr 12, 2014 01:07
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Because he's already got most of the parts and they match just fine?
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Apr 12, 2014 01:28
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West SAAB Story posted:"Why are you trying so hard to find bits that will paint match, kinda, when you have a plethora of other cheap parts available?" I'm not?
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Apr 12, 2014 01:30
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MikeyTsi posted:I'm not? "The color is rather close to the same." just ebbs excuse to me, but whatever. Good luck with your
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Apr 12, 2014 01:31
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West SAAB Story posted:"The color is rather close to the same." just ebbs excuse to me, but whatever. Good luck with your Interesting that you seem to be attributing that as a quote, when that isn't anything that I said at all. 
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Apr 12, 2014 01:35
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MikeyTsi posted:Interesting that you seem to be attributing that as a quote, when that isn't anything that I said at all. I had no idea that paraphrasing would cause such chagrin. Don't worry, I'm no longer interested. Have a great build. Hope it works out cheaper than $4k for you. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Apr 12, 2014 01:39
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West SAAB Story posted:I had no idea that paraphrasing would cause such chagrin. Don't worry, I'm no longer interested. Have a great build. Hope it works out cheaper than $4k for you. Must you poo poo up every loving thread? This is the exact loving reason that AI is running out of project builts etc, because of sperging shitlords like yourself. And please don't get a smug look on your face over your successful 'trolling' or whatever. Urgh. Mikey; enjoy! I'm not sure if we got any variation of these in Aus-land, but I've always liked the 3000GT (for better or worse), but have never been super interested in any DSMs..
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Apr 12, 2014 09:18
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fingerling posted:
I think a few got grey-marketed over there, but they'd be extraordinarily rare. They were for the most part US/Canada only, with a few making it to Europe. the closest you'd get as far as drivetrain would be the Galant VR-4's before they went to the V6.
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Apr 12, 2014 09:24
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I had good luck the one time that I put a same-color panel from a junkyard on a car. The previous owner of my old MX-6 GT wrecked it whilst drunk driving and sold it to me for a small stack of  . I needed to re-hang the bumper, bondo the poo poo out of the hood and replace the RF fender. Color match was very, very close (close enough that nobody would notice, even if I told them).
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Apr 12, 2014 14:20
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Don't listen to the poo poo-poster. I've secretly always wanted a DSM, but living in the upper midwest most are beaten and rusted out by now. Keep up the work on moving things over to the new shell.
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Apr 12, 2014 14:22
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