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That's a 90 year oil cooler, I'd put a setrab under the driver's side headlight and shorten up the lines, but I understand if you don't want to bother with making more AN Lines. Easy way to check for ABS is if there's a wire going to the hub. ABS units are around the driver's headlight as well. It's not worth it to add ABS to these cars unless you're going to be running some big money Bosch system (EG Bosch M4, and at that point you should've spent more money on driving coaching/brake balancing.
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May 18, 2014 01:39
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Octopus Magic posted:That's a 90 year oil cooler, I'd put a setrab under the driver's side headlight and shorten up the lines, but I understand if you don't want to bother with making more AN Lines. My guess is it's an artifact from the 6-bolt that's in the car, the engine that's going in to it has the integrated one so I'll probably just pull this one and not deal with it (for now). Yeah, I probably won't bother if it's not in there, it's just another "damnit, here's an option that was on the old car that's not on this one" kind of thing.
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May 18, 2014 08:26
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I'm pretty sure ABS was standard on the 95s. The ABS system in in the driver side fender well. You should be able to see all the lines looking around the dryer.
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May 19, 2014 01:28
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The weenie water/oil cooler is way worse than the external oil cooler and barely does anything. I'd see what you could do to integrating one.
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May 19, 2014 02:19
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Octopus Magic posted:The weenie water/oil cooler is way worse than the external oil cooler and barely does anything. I'd see what you could do to integrating one. True, but he's not racing the car or doing anything to really require it. Just do whatever is easier I'd say.
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May 19, 2014 12:24
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Larrymer posted:True, but he's not racing the car or doing anything to really require it. Just do whatever is easier I'd say. Yeah, the current setup I have in the '97 works just fine, so I'll probably just leave it that way for now. Once I (in theory) rebuild the 6-bolt and get to the point where I can install the 16G though,...
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May 19, 2014 18:53
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th vwls hv scpd posted:I'm pretty sure ABS was standard on the 95s. The ABS system in in the driver side fender well. You should be able to see all the lines looking around the dryer. That's where I was getting confused; on my '97 there's a hole there where you can see the ABS unit from the top of the car, the '95 doesn't have that. If it's tucked underneath or something maybe I'll see it when I pull the bumper off.
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May 19, 2014 18:55
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Absolutely no updates; I got myself a somewhat nasty cold and haven't been able to get jack or poo poo done because of it. Hoping I'll be feeling better soon so I can start working on the cars again.
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May 19, 2014 19:00
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you can't spell DSM without 'intervention.'
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May 26, 2014 02:30
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A lack of an engine hoist, jacks being lovely, and the onset of rain prevented us from getting much done today, but we DID manage to get the trunk lids swapped.    Looks like an alignment issue on driver's side, is this common? At least it's changed over, and the paint is once again a perfect match. Hoping to get a hold of the hoist and a better jack this week, and then should be in the home stretch. I'm thinking on picking up the larger brake booster and such, it's much easier (not loving impossible) to install with the engine out, and it looks like it doesn't negatively impact pedal feel. And it's a pretty necessary upgrade when moving to Lancer brakes.
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May 26, 2014 05:34
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Also discovered that my A/C system has no pressure at this point, so the condenser is definitely hosed. Looks like I might be able to get one cheap from Performance Radiator, we'll see.
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May 27, 2014 09:34
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Helping out today and I noticed a few things, such as this axle support that just wasn't really doing anything: And this hand twisted spliced zip tied ground wire to the oil filter. 
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Jun 1, 2014 21:56
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Lining body panels up is a pain in the rear end. You'll probably have to adjust stops and hinges a bunch to get rid of the gap on the drivers side. You may even need to do a little 'manual adjustment' i.e. twisting the lid with brute force because it may have gotten tweaked when your car got hit. EDIT: This is my favorite project thread btw. I really don't care much about DSMs but taking two broken cars to make one good car is my favorite thing to watch for some reason. Bugdrvr fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 23:33
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HE WENT AWAY OKAY EVERYBODY POSE ON THE MOTOR TIME   
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Jun 2, 2014 00:03
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I hate you.
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Jun 2, 2014 01:36
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Someone needs a new Avatar.
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Jun 2, 2014 02:12
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'95 is officially ready to pull the motor!  Well, need to pull the driveshaft and the axles, but everything else is removed and cleared. The engine bay harness in the '95 is,.... Not so great. So I'll definitely be pulling the harness out of the '97 and using it instead. Over the next week I think I'm going to pull the dash out, I want to validate if there's been any fuckery with the wiring behind there and decide if I need to replace that wiring with the harness from the '97. Besides, I want to convert the lighting over, and see about gluing the airbag cover down since it's peeling up a bit. Sent a message to the PO about the age of the transmission, that combined with actually looking at condition should tell me whether or not I should spend money on new seals. I'm realizing I'm going to have to pull the clutch/flywheel to replace the rear main seal, not sure I want to go through that. Again, will look at the condition of the seal and replace if it's looking old/chewed, if not I'll wait on that until it's time to replace the clutch. MikeyTsi fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jun 2, 2014 |
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Jun 2, 2014 02:13
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MikeyTsi posted:I'm realizing I'm going to have to pull the clutch/flywheel to replace the rear main seal, not sure I want to go through that. Again, will look at the condition of the seal and replace if it's looking old/chewed, if not I'll wait on that until it's time to replace the clutch. This isn't hard (15 bolts?), just get 13" to put the seal in so you don't gently caress it up. There's not going to be a better time to replace it.
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Jun 2, 2014 02:46
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Larrymer posted:This isn't hard (15 bolts?), just get 13" to put the seal in so you don't gently caress it up. There's not going to be a better time to replace it. It's reinstalling/aligning the clutch (I don't have the alignment tool), and the other bullshit. Like I said, I'm going to look at it. If it appears to be in okay shape I'll replace it when I do the next clutch job. If not, I'll bite the bullet, put on my big boy pants, and deal with it.
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Jun 2, 2014 03:03
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wait i thought we were gonna take off the big boy pants
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Jun 2, 2014 03:28
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MikeyTsi posted:It's reinstalling/aligning the clutch (I don't have the alignment tool), and the other bullshit. I don't remember the last time I owned a clutch tool. I usually make something with assorted sockets, extensions, and maybe some electric tape. You're going to hate yourself if it ends up leaking and ruining your clutch. Or driveway (like my loving lovely leaky Volvo wagon). I've always wanted a gsx, and since I'm not allowed to buy anything new, I will continue to live vicariously through you. (13" you keep rocking on dude!)
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Jun 2, 2014 07:58
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Go to the parts store and get an alignment tool or ask some dude to ship you one for $5 off the dsm forums. OOOOOOOOOOR buy a clutch kit, use the tool, then return the clutch. I think you're making it out to be a lot bigger deal than it is. I will stop reading this thread when 13" takes off your big boy pants. 
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Jun 2, 2014 15:14
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http://www.advancedclutch.com/at20 5 bucks. No excuses.
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Jun 2, 2014 15:17
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5 minutes, $0, no excuses
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Jun 2, 2014 15:43
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I sent Lucas an e-mail, he probably has a bunch of them lying around and may very well send one up to me for shipping cost.
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Jun 2, 2014 16:33
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Terrible Robot posted:5 minutes, $0, no excuses
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Jun 2, 2014 19:39
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"CraftsMAN"
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Jun 2, 2014 22:04
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Between that and the 13" pin-up spread a few posts up, this is the best page in AI right now.
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Jun 2, 2014 22:20
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daslog posted:Someone needs a new Avatar.  Ask and ye shall receive. 
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Jun 2, 2014 23:03
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MikeyTsi posted:I pulled that loving wing off of the car, and it's now sitting in the trunk. Were you serious about wanting it? DJ Commie posted:Yeah, I'm sure I can put it on a LeMons car or something, DOWNFARCE! 13 INCH DICK posted:One full contact lap dance :giggity:
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Jun 4, 2014 02:04
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Also willing to accept payment in bitcoin
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Jun 4, 2014 02:15
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13 INCH DICK posted:Also willing to accept payment in bitcoin I think you mean "buttcoin".
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Jun 4, 2014 04:36
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I will pay a single unit of buttcoin. Does it come apart enough to pack flat? edit: I may or may not send you any DSM parts I had left over from my 92 Laser RS
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Jun 5, 2014 21:16
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DJ Commie posted:I will pay a single unit of buttcoin. I'm not certain, I was going to take a look at it in the next day or few to see if the posts are easy to remove from the wing or not.
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Jun 6, 2014 00:22
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PO keeps trying to talk me in to selling him the 16G on the car. On one hand: Apparently it's an "eBay turbo" which makes it unlikely I'm going to want to use it. I could use a few extra bucks On the other: I know he's just going to loving put it on his car with the stock fueling system, and he's already hosed up the cylinder head on it.
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Jun 6, 2014 01:06
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So what's your problem then?
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Jun 6, 2014 01:35
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MikeyTsi posted:PO keeps trying to talk me in to selling him the 16G on the car. DSMers. 
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Jun 6, 2014 03:48
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They don't call DSM's the Japanese Trans Am without reason. 
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Jun 6, 2014 04:06
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13 INCH DICK posted:So what's your problem then? I don't want to feel like I'm contributing to someone ruining what is at present a pretty nice car in good condition.
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Jun 6, 2014 08:52
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Trust me he's ruining it with or without your help. Its a good excuse to get rid of it.
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Jun 7, 2014 01:09
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