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mafoose posted:Google "[location] welding supply" Yeah, I was thinking about that when I was looking at the 2-gauge at Vatozone, they only carry it in black.
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Jul 9, 2014 03:37
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Pretty sure harbor freight has welding cable, check there.
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Jul 9, 2014 05:34
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They do but the quality sucks. The nice thing about going to a welding supply shop is you can get it in many different gauges and it is usually very high quality. And if money is an issue, a few of the places around here even sell used cable by the foot.
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Jul 9, 2014 06:38
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Woohoo! WOOHOO!  ...Well, poo poo. 
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Jul 9, 2014 07:11
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MikeyTsi posted:...Well, poo poo. That'll just pound out.....right?
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Jul 9, 2014 07:13
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Why did you leave the transfer case on?!?
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Jul 9, 2014 15:06
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Looks like where the seal goes is still good, I would cut the bent part off.
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Jul 9, 2014 17:33
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Octopus Magic posted:Why did you leave the transfer case on?!? Apparently because I'm a loving moron that wanted to save 5-10 minutes of time by breaking something. I have two other transfer cases though, so I should be able to replace whatever I hosed up by being an idiot.
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Jul 9, 2014 19:11
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mafoose posted:Looks like where the seal goes is still good, I would cut the bent part off. It started pissing out gear oil, I broke SOMETHING. I'll figure out what I did and fix it in the next few days.
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Jul 9, 2014 19:12
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MikeyTsi posted:It started pissing out gear oil, I broke SOMETHING. That's how it works. You have to keep the TC with the yoke end pointed up or it'll leak everywhere. The TC itself is fine, just hammer out the little dent.
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Jul 9, 2014 19:26
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BoostCreep posted:That's how it works. You have to keep the TC with the yoke end pointed up or it'll leak everywhere. The TC itself is fine, just hammer out the little dent. If that were the case you'd leak all over the place whenever driving on an incline or when you jacked the front of the car up. There's a seal back there, it's not supposed to leak like that. Hopefully I just damaged the seal, but I should be able to replace whatever I broke with my spares regardless (and I already have a replacement seal waiting).
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Jul 9, 2014 20:52
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The seal seals (LOL) against the driveshaft yoke. On my cars I use a rubber glove or spray can lid to seal them off when removing them.
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Jul 9, 2014 21:28
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mafoose posted:The seal seals (LOL) against the driveshaft yoke. On my cars I use a rubber glove or spray can lid to seal them off when removing them. Exactly. You need the driveshaft yolk to complete the seal. Trust me, I've done about 20 transmission swaps on AWD 1Gs and 2Gs and they all leak like that.
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Jul 9, 2014 21:54
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^Nth'd. Should have just removed the 5 bolts and set it up against the wall rear end up, dude. Hopefully it can be massaged a bit and still used.
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Jul 10, 2014 01:12
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Agreed, most Dodge trucks and 95- Cherokees have the same setup. A lot of 2WD Chevy trucks too IIRC. Bend it back out, see if it's OK or not, if it isn't, welp. Still a good parts case.
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Jul 10, 2014 01:21
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Got the engines and transmissions separated last night, I should be going out there once the cars are in shade to get seals installed and such, so the engine can get dropped in tonight or tomorrow morning. I've decided I'm going to swap over my engine harness from the '97, so I don't have issues with sensor connections, have to deal with the hacked engine harness in the '95, and it looks like I can swap them without having to pull the dashes in the cars. It looks like I've got some rubbing on the clutch fork (this is the transmission I won't be using, but attached to the engine I will be):   And it looks like my throwout bearing was on its way out:  Based on position, it looks like it would have to be the clutch it was rubbing on:  Here's the transmission I will be using for comparison:  Any thoughts as to why this rubbing might have been happening? Edit: After doing some research on the webs, it looks like this might be because the fork/pivot ball might be out of adjustment, causing the fork to rub on the pressure plate? MikeyTsi fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Jul 19, 2014 |
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Jul 19, 2014 00:59
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RE: the transfer case; I need to take a better look at it (tomorrow), but it looks like it may have just been that metal cover to protect the shaft connection/seal that got damaged, and it looks like it's just a slip-fit piece that I can yank off of one of my other transfer cases. Didn't get anything done today, I was just too tired after my 24-hour patch cycle at work and ended up falling asleep during the time I was going to be out there. Should be ready to go tomorrow morning though, I need to figure out how to get the drat axle cups out of the transmission, replace a bunch of seals (including pulling the clutch and flywheel off so I can replace the rear main), then bolt the transmission back to the motor and drop it in. Once that's done I'll be in the home stretch of replacing the wiring, the clutch line, and plugging in/bolting in everything so I can try to start this sucker (hopefully by Sunday).
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Jul 19, 2014 05:51
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Jul 21, 2014 05:20
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Update: Well, I already "spoiled" the most important part, the engine/transmission is now IN, and being held in by 3 of the four mounts (ran out of time to install the bottom crossmember with the fourth). Over the weekend: Swapped steering racks (mine has pretty new tie-rod ends) Got all but one of the drat axles pulled (I still can't get the axle end to separate from the intermediate shaft, I'll probably have to take it to a shop to get it pulled) Swapped over the hard line for the clutch from my car (had to cut the one in the '95 because it rounded off) Swapped slave cylinders (mine is newer) Swapped the shaft housing on the transfer case with one that had a (relatively) undamaged dust cover Mated the '95 transmission to the '97 engine Installed engine! Hopefully this evening I'll get the last bolt for the steering rack in, get the transfer case installed and connected to the driveline, get the front axles installed, and get the exhaust pipe and crossmember bits bolted back in. That should largely complete the "hard" stuff and what requires crawling around underneath the car, and only leaves the million "little things" to get the car able to move under its own power. I REALLY hope this drat thing starts once I get everything reconnected,...
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Jul 22, 2014 00:32
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Seriously, the hell with trying to pull the whole front electrical harness. I'm separating it and just pulling out the few cables and connectors I need. Still going to try to pull the harness that goes to the ECU and swap that over though since it has all the right sensor connectors I need. And pulling the shifter cables is proving to be somewhat maddening. I hate cars. MikeyTsi fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Jul 29, 2014 |
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Jul 29, 2014 04:23
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Super, the two wires that I really wanted to replace appear to be the oil pressure sensor and sender connectors, which are of course the ones that go all the way in to the passenger compartment. I think I'm just going to have to cut and splice them. I got the sensor harness all disconnected from the firewall and such, hopefully it'll be easy to disconnect inside the car and pull through the firewall. It looks like there's a plate in the passenger compartment I have to unbolt in order to pull the cables and the rubber piece through, I think I'll give that a shot with whatever else I have time for after work tomorrow or Wednesday. I've already got the drat engine in, this stuff was supposed to be the EASY part.
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Jul 29, 2014 05:18
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Got the shifter/cables pulled last night, and got a bit farther on getting the "control harness" ready to pull. Hoping I can get that pulled out tonight so I can start working on installing things in to the new car.
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Jul 31, 2014 23:11
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Is the old rack in good shape? Mine leaks like a motherfucker and it would be nice to rebuild one not on the car.
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Jul 31, 2014 23:25
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th vwls hv scpd posted:Is the old rack in good shape? Mine leaks like a motherfucker and it would be nice to rebuild one not on the car. I'll pull the boots to confirm, but I think the rack itself is in pretty good shape. I'll go out and look at it this evening.
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Aug 1, 2014 00:37
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Who the gently caress puts 17's on the front an 18's on the rear of an AWD car? "It seems like the transfer case was having some problems." Yeah no kidding, dipshit. I wonder why that could be?
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Aug 4, 2014 18:59
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You bought a real cherry car.
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Aug 4, 2014 19:02
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MikeyTsi posted:Who the gently caress puts 17's on the front an 18's on the rear of an AWD car? Ehhh, choose the right profile and sidewall tire for each and work some tire pressure magic and you could get it dialed in real close. But yeah based on the idiot's other decisions, probably not done right.
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Aug 11, 2014 20:06
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 poo poo.
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Aug 15, 2014 06:50
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I'm going to guess by the knocked over jackstand that seems like it was trying to support the car (...on grass?  ) that you narrowly avoided injury here?
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Aug 15, 2014 06:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm going to guess by the knocked over jackstand that seems like it was trying to support the car (...on grass? I came out and discovered it when I came home this evening. Not positive when it happened. It's not grass, although there's some there. It's mainly gravel. THIS is why I put the wheels under the car. I'm pretty pissed that the guy that's been helping me moved the loving wheels, and annoyed with myself that I didn't notice and put them back. 13" is reasonably positive that the damage will be minimal if any. I may be able to get out there tomorrow evening and try to get it lifted back up again.
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Aug 15, 2014 07:20
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If I can have a jack fail on concrete and drop the LCA + rotor onto concrete with absolutely no damage (except to the driveway), I'm preeeeetty sure you're gonna be okay on this one. Just be glad you weren't under it. e: put a decent sized bit of cardboard under them in the future. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Aug 15, 2014 |
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Aug 15, 2014 07:27
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some texas redneck posted:If I can have a jack fail on concrete and drop the LCA + rotor onto concrete with absolutely no damage (except to the driveway), I'm preeeeetty sure you're gonna be okay on this one. And make extra sure I stick the drat tires under the body just in case.
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Aug 15, 2014 10:06
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some texas redneck posted:e: put a decent sized bit of Scrap pieces of plywood are ideal for this.
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Aug 15, 2014 12:41
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The best bet is something solid. We had a piece of plywood crack at rally service last year and waste 7 minutes. Granted you aren't under the gun here, but if your stands don't have flat bases, they'll blow through plywood over time. I'm trying to find 4x flexplates to weld to my stands. When doing home/backyard work, always keep a secondary under the car just in case whether it be leaving the jack under the car or throwing the tires underneath or a second set of stands not engaging the car that the car will fall on and hopefully not crush your noggin'
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Aug 15, 2014 13:41
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Slow is Fast posted:I'm trying to find 4x flexplates to weld to my stands. what kind of  loving redneck would ever do that?(put them crank pos sensor reluctor ring down, that way it digs into the dirt and doesn't slide easily.)
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Aug 15, 2014 15:02
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I think I found a correct connector to patch in to the speaker wiring so I don't have to splice/tap in to them.
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Aug 18, 2014 05:05
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some texas redneck posted:e: put a decent sized bit of cardboard under them in the future. KozmoNaut posted:Scrap pieces of plywood are ideal for this.  Why the gently caress did I say CARDboard?! I meant plywood.
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Aug 18, 2014 10:06
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Hate you
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Aug 18, 2014 23:24
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GG?
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Aug 18, 2014 23:53
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I've been relapsing, which has been making getting under the car sort of impossible, hence no real updates. Under the car: Install and tighten the other bolt for the intermediate shaft. Install driver's axle. Bolt in sway bar. Bolt in some plates for the crossmember stuff. Put the correct bolt/nut in the front roll stop. Tighten passenger side suspension components. Fill transfer case. Connect tie-rod ends (steering be important, yo). Once that's done I can put the wheels back on and put the car back down on the ground. Then it's just swapping the control harness and shifter/cables, and reinstalling all of the emissions components and intercooler piping and such. Also need to swap the doors. Also also swap the interior. Also also also buy a A/C condenser and drier and install. I'll see if I can get some pictures of the damage from the jack stand incident today.
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Sep 3, 2014 02:25
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