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Q8ee posted:Back before this mining shitfest (that has completely skewed prices as of late), what was the normal baseline price for a 1080? It's hard to find cause MSRP is set at one thing but then I don't know how to look back at price trendlines. I just looked at Price History on pcpartpicker over two years for your model of card.
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Jan 21, 2018 15:35
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Q8ee posted:I bought a Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 G1 for £569.99, how dicked did I get on price? It was $20 cheaper a couple days ago but it will probably be $20 more in a few days https://uk.camelcamelcamel.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Gaming-Graphics-GV-N1080G1/product/B01GJEE9BG?context=search
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Jan 21, 2018 18:39
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What fans would you recommend for a Fractal R4 case? I've been using stock fans all these years, but want to buy more to keep temps low. I was thinking of getting 2x Noctua NF-A14, one as an intake and one as an exhaust. Thoughts?
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Jan 21, 2018 21:18
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I know really next to nothing about building computers. Some years ago a friend of mine built a computer for me, in what I believe is the mini-ITX format (I needed something compact). Now, one HDMI port is fried, another one fries whatever I plug it into, and one of the networking ports just seems to reboot the computer upon plugging / unplugging. I guess I need to change the motherboard? In that case, I couldn't find the original one in stock, which is this: https://www.digitec.ch/fr/s1/product/gigabyte-ga-h170n-wifi-lga-1151-intel-h170-mini-itx-cartes-meres-5747607 I instead found this one: https://www.digitec.ch/fr/s1/product/gigabyte-ga-h270n-wifi-lga-1151-intel-h270-mini-itx-cartes-meres-6212746?tagIds=76#availability Can anyone tell me if they are pretty much the same? Will I be able to just replace it? Do you need more info?
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Jan 21, 2018 22:40
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go play outside Skyler posted:Now, one HDMI port is fried, another one fries whatever I plug it into, and one of the networking ports just seems to reboot the computer upon plugging / unplugging. I guess I need to change the motherboard? This board you linked is not your original. It is ATX, not mini-ITX and has only one HDMI and one ethernet port. Unless your current setup includes an add-on video card and add-on network adapter... (it might). E: And isn't really very compact. Hipster_Doofus fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Jan 22, 2018 |
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Jan 22, 2018 05:42
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Hipster_Doofus posted:This board you linked is not your original. It is ATX, not mini-ITX and has only one HDMI and one ethernet port. Unless your current setup includes an add-on video card and add-on network adapter... (it might). Er, I guess you're getting a different product from me since you're not in Switzerland or something... The old mobo is this: Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI (LGA 1151, Intel H170, Mini ITX) The new mobo is this: Gigabyte GA-H270N-WIFI (LGA 1151, Intel H270, Mini ITX) From what I gather, only the chipset is different. Not sure if there will be compatibility issues though?
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Jan 22, 2018 09:12
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go play outside Skyler posted:Er, I guess you're getting a different product from me since you're not in Switzerland or something... Your CPU and RAM should work in the H270 board. The 6000 and 7000 series of Intel CPUs work in H270 chipsets and you probably have a 6000 series.
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Jan 22, 2018 09:51
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Q8ee posted:What fans would you recommend for a Fractal R4 case? I've been using stock fans all these years, but want to buy more to keep temps low. I was thinking of getting 2x Noctua NF-A14, one as an intake and one as an exhaust. Thoughts? Noctuas aren't cheap, but it's hard to go wrong with them. My define r3 is filled to the brim with Noctuas. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 10:35 on Jan 22, 2018 |
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Jan 22, 2018 10:29
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HalloKitty posted:Noctuas aren't cheap, but it's hard to go wrong with them. My define r3 is filled to the brim with Noctuas. I bought two, and they're incredible. I had one on the front as an intake, and one on the top as an exhaust, and the cool air it blows out the top is enough to make me feel chilly as it blows out from under my desk. I bought a 1080 and as far as I could tell, it only had 1 8 pin power connector. Is that normal? I'm used to my old GPU that needed two 8 pin connections to power it. I mean, everything's running fine, so I guess we're good?
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Jan 22, 2018 20:33
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Q8ee posted:I bought two, and they're incredible. I had one on the front as an intake, and one on the top as an exhaust, and the cool air it blows out the top is enough to make me feel chilly as it blows out from under my desk. One 8-pin can handle 150 Watts and the PCI-E slot can (theoretically) provide 75 Watts. NVidia claims the 1080 has a maximum power use of 180 Watts (although I think heavy overclocking can go a little higher). Your previous card was probably set up to have more power delivery just in case of bad power supplies or people using 6 to 8 pin adapters inappropriately, even though it likely didn't use that many Watts.
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Jan 22, 2018 20:51
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Thanks for explaining it. I'd plugged everything in and then realised there might be another power connector on the side of the GPU, but I couldn't be arsed taking everything out again to check. It powered up alright, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't unintentionally throttling it by not plugging it in properly.
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Jan 22, 2018 21:00
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The other side? Like, facing the motherboard? Definitely not.
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Jan 22, 2018 21:13
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Hipster_Doofus posted:The other side? Like, facing the motherboard? Definitely not. No, not facing the motherboard. There's a connector on the top of the card, and I was wondering if there might be another on the right hand side of the card. But I couldn't check as clearance is very low and I'd forgot to look before plugging it in.
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Jan 22, 2018 21:14
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Q8ee posted:No, not facing the motherboard. There's a connector on the top of the card, and I was wondering if there might be another on the right hand side of the card. But I couldn't check as clearance is very low and I'd forgot to look before plugging it in. They usually put them right next to each other. I went from a 970 to a 1080 and found the same thing, it requires only one PCI-E power cable.
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Jan 23, 2018 02:42
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That's awesome, makes my life so much easier. It's also my first time ever having a modular PSU, they're the pinnacle of human achievement. Final question and I'll quit janking up the thread: should my CPU cooler fan be DC controlled or PWM controlled? I have the option of picking both.
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Jan 23, 2018 03:14
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Q8ee posted:That's awesome, makes my life so much easier. It's also my first time ever having a modular PSU, they're the pinnacle of human achievement. Four pins for PWM, three pins for DC (well, varying the voltage). Your motherboard should figure it out itself, generally.
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Jan 23, 2018 03:21
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My mom called me to ask if her company (medium size, not IT related) should purchase one of these security appliances sold by this company, WatchGuard (https://www.watchguard.com). My infosec knowledge is weak and I've never heard of them. Is this a worthwhile investment?
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Jan 23, 2018 11:16
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Q8ee posted:Final question and I'll quit janking up the thread: should my CPU cooler fan be DC controlled or PWM controlled? I have the option of picking both. To expand on the above poster's comment that 4 pins for PWM, you will want to use PWM where possible (whenever you have 4 pins on both ends of the cable) as it enables the motherboard to lower the RPMs further than DC mode, enabling quieter operation.
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Jan 23, 2018 14:25
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Argue posted:My mom called me to ask if her company (medium size, not IT related) should purchase one of these security appliances sold by this company, WatchGuard (https://www.watchguard.com). My infosec knowledge is weak and I've never heard of them. Is this a worthwhile investment? You might try asking in one of the IT threads like this one: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3845247
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Jan 23, 2018 17:53
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nvm found it
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Jan 26, 2018 04:41
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I'm doing a NAS build and really want to do custom power cables. ModDIY sells a crimper for $40 that works with Molex/DuPont/Fan terminators, link here. Is there a version of this tool that doesn't cost $50? Specifically, I see these kits everywhere in the $20 range where the ratcheting part of the crimper looks identical to the ModDIY one and am wondering if those heads would work with PC connectors. Related question, why does everyone call 4-pin connectors molex connectors when they're really mate-n-lock?
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Jan 30, 2018 06:02
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Chuu posted:I'm doing a NAS build and really want to do custom power cables. ModDIY sells a crimper for $40 that works with Molex/DuPont/Fan terminators, link here. Is there a version of this tool that doesn't cost $50? Specifically, I see these kits everywhere in the $20 range where the ratcheting part of the crimper looks identical to the ModDIY one and am wondering if those heads would work with PC connectors. I think the moddiy one is probably from the same molds/factory as this one on amazon where it costs $19.99: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076K97JRV/ edit: this one's even cheaper and seems to also be identical https://smile.amazon.com/Estone-Crimping-28-18AWG-Crimper-0-1-1-0mm%B2/dp/B00HLCNWNC/ but doesn't include Prime shipping. They're not completely identical but very close, and both are SN-28B. I think molex became the colloquial term for them because a lot of the connectors were made by molex in the 80s, 90s, 00s. Obviously it's not the correct term for the connector type but it's fairly ubiquitous computer nerd parlance. I remember calling them that when I was working on PCs in 1994 and I learned it from my coworkers who had been there longer. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Jan 30, 2018 |
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Jan 30, 2018 06:18
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Patent. Molex had it first in the late 50s, then MATE-N-LOK made a similar connector. Anyone referring to any nylon connector other than the four pin old-school/IDE power connector as Molex, however, would be dumb.
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Jan 30, 2018 16:58
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Rexxed posted:They're not completely identical but very close, and both are SN-28B. Thanks for the reply. What type of "die" are DuPont and Fan Headers? What does SN-28B mean? Chuu fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jan 31, 2018 |
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Jan 31, 2018 02:35
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Chuu posted:Thanks for the reply. What type of "die" are DuPont and Fan Headers? What does SN-28B mean? I don't know what SN-28B means exactly, but it seems to be a designation for a crimper tool with that particular die in it. It's got spots for crimping with three pretty common wire gauges for electronics and computers. Dupont or fan headers (usually stuff with a standard 2.54mm pin pitch) are crimped based on the wire gauge that they use, which is usually AWG 28. There's a bunch of information about crimping for those online with that tool: This guy's got a brief description and a little video with details of crimping some pins: https://bigdanzblog.wordpress.com/2015/05/28/how-to-crimp-your-own-0-1-terminals-to-jumper-wires/ This one's more about making connections for electronics but it's pretty much all dupont style: https://www.bluetin.io/tools/sn-28b-terminal-pin-crimping-tool-guide/ This one probably has more information than you need about connectors and crimping in general although it goes into a lot of stuff that's more specific to pinball machines: http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/
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Jan 31, 2018 03:13
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I tried (and failed) to overclock my CPU multiple times. my PC wouldn't boot windows. closest I got was the Windows Logo and the loading spinning wheel, then I'd BSOD or crash. I decided to try it out as I'm getting a new CPU and figured it'd be a good learning opportunity with not much risk. that being said, since attempting to overclock, my PC has been hella slow and laggy. things take longer to load, opening Spotify or Steam or Chrome tabs is quite laggy. is this due to the overclocking attempts?
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Jan 31, 2018 08:17
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Q8ee posted:I tried (and failed) to overclock my CPU multiple times. my PC wouldn't boot windows. closest I got was the Windows Logo and the loading spinning wheel, then I'd BSOD or crash. I decided to try it out as I'm getting a new CPU and figured it'd be a good learning opportunity with not much risk. that being said, since attempting to overclock, my PC has been hella slow and laggy. things take longer to load, opening Spotify or Steam or Chrome tabs is quite laggy. No, it shouldn't be. If you turn off the settings you bumped up for overclocking it should be no different than before. Long term high voltages can damage CPUs due to electromigration but just trying an OC and reverting shouldn't have any long term effects. It could be entirely software like windows doing background updates, but I don't know. I'd look at your task manager performance tab when trying to do things that feel slow and see if some other process is using a lot of resources.
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Jan 31, 2018 08:27
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Rexxed posted:No, it shouldn't be. If you turn off the settings you bumped up for overclocking it should be no different than before. Long term high voltages can damage CPUs due to electromigration but just trying an OC and reverting shouldn't have any long term effects. It could be entirely software like windows doing background updates, but I don't know. I'd look at your task manager performance tab when trying to do things that feel slow and see if some other process is using a lot of resources. I had my PC on power saver mode... it was throttling everything lol
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Jan 31, 2018 09:14
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Is there a thread for computer desks? (or ergonomics) I see one for chairs. I'm finding myself thinking I might need a new/better desk - what i have has worked for me for several years but I'm starting to wonder/worry about the ergonomics of it. I'm not to crazy on keyboard trays so I think that just limits my options to find desks with lower surfaces or adjustable surfaces, but I'm curious if there's any sort of discussion/suggestions I can look into before I rush out to buy something.
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Jan 31, 2018 18:01
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https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2920891
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Jan 31, 2018 18:07
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Nevermind. my question was answered in the link above.
MrTargetPractice fucked around with this message at 11:18 on Feb 3, 2018 |
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Feb 3, 2018 11:16
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I have a GTX680 and I've been experiencing screen tearing constantly. I don't remember this happening before. It doesn't seem to matter what game I'm playing, I get screen tearing whenever I move the camera from left to right. Any idea what's going on?
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Feb 4, 2018 00:19
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RobotDogPolice posted:I have a GTX680 and I've been experiencing screen tearing constantly. I don't remember this happening before. It doesn't seem to matter what game I'm playing, I get screen tearing whenever I move the camera from left to right. Any idea what's going on? Tearing is typically because your GPU is producing frames faster than your monitor can push them out, I think. Turn VSync on in a game, see if it stops.
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Feb 5, 2018 04:41
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In the Nvidia control panel you can set it to force vsync for all games.
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Feb 5, 2018 05:53
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So I have a question re: air cooling. I'm mainly just playing around for fun and to learn at this point so theres nothing seriously at stake in what I'm doing here. I have some case fans that I hooked up to one of those fan controllers (NZXT Sentry 3 or something) but it seems like the slowest I can set the fans on it is either 40% or off. 40% seems like it might be too high RPM, and also the fan controller is just unnecessary so I'm going to probably return it or just use it in a different computer for shits and giggles. My mobo (gigabyte gaming 7 ) has 8 fan headers I guess and all are PWM? I think I'm actually gonna be able to do what I want to do with the mobo stock better than with that thing, which is just have more fans but lower RPM (quieter). Anyway I guess my question is, is there any way without me disassembling all that poo poo to quantify if I can get the fans to be slower than 40% capacity off the mobo? I'm also bored n lonely at work and wanted somebody to talk to ty
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Feb 6, 2018 02:58
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Judging from your avatar and title, you've got multiple issues with your fandom.
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Feb 6, 2018 06:43
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I plugged in a molex to sata adapter backwards. I thought they were keyed to make that impossible but apparently not. Now a previously working drive and the new drive I was trying to add won't spin up. My ssd and a third mechanical drive that were in the system still work. Only the two drives I plugged into the molex to sata adapter won't power up. The drives are garbage now right? Nothing to try short of trying to get a new pcb for the hd?
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Feb 6, 2018 23:58
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Any tips on determining whether my GPU or PSU is going bad? I've been having hard resets happening more and more frequently over the last few months, starting only when running newer more intensive games, and eventually when just browsing the web or even less than that. At first I thought it was CPU overheating, because those temps seemed a little high in HWMonitor, but then I tried pulling the GPU and using the MB onboard graphics, and that seems to have fixed it. Unfortunately I don't have another system to try the GPU in. Is my next option just replacing the GPU/PSU and seeing what happens, or are there any good diagnostic tools for this kind of stuff? I'm running: EVGA Supernova 650 P2 ASRock Z97 Pro4 Intel 4790k MSI R9 390
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Feb 7, 2018 00:35
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plape tickler posted:I plugged in a molex to sata adapter backwards. I thought they were keyed to make that impossible but apparently not. They are. Did it require a lot of force? Are one of the connectors really worn out or non-standard somehow? Molex backward means something that wants 5v got 12v. Ouch. Some devices might be able to tolerate that briefly, but drive electronics are pretty delicate I would think. The outlook is pretty bad, but can you spot any obviously fried component(s) on the pcbs?
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Feb 7, 2018 01:08
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Hipster_Doofus posted:They are. Did it require a lot of force? Are one of the connectors really worn out or non-standard somehow? No, I didn't smell any smoke or hear any arcing. It was a peaceful death. The molex to sata cable fits both ways with the same amount of force. I wasn't paying close enough attention obviously but I wrongly assumed it would only fit one way. My reward for buying the cheapest cable I could find.
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Feb 7, 2018 01:12
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