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I need a new multi-function printer that has good windows 10 drivers, supports air print, and Google Cloud print. It must also be a wireless printer. I think I want a laser printer as well but I'm not completely comitted to that. <$400 ideally. I've been eyeing the brother printers but their windows 10 driver support looks lacking. suggestions?
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Jul 31, 2016 14:09
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simcole posted:I need a new multi-function printer https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3194023&pagenumber=32&perpage=40
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Jul 31, 2016 14:25
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fishmech posted:When was the last time that you'd successfully used the desktop before then? Incidentally, I wouldn't expect it to be a power supply issue if the DVD drive and hard drive will spin up, but it'd be really hard to say what bit just died. Last used I think about 4 years ago. No flashing lights or sounds, although the board doesn't have onboard sound. I do have a sound card installed so I can plug in a speaker (built into monitor) to check for any sounds. Paul MaudDib posted:I don't think the PSU can be ruled out entirely but a bad motherboard is the most likely suspect. If this is an old PC I'd look for some popped electrolytic caps. Thanks, this board is pretty old (Tyan Thunder K8W) so I'll look for those just in case.
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Jul 31, 2016 14:28
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I'm looking at SMART for two drives - one is a 250GB hard drive that I bought with a desktop from CL. The other is a 4TB Seagate model that I bought about a year and a half ago. The smaller drive has 200 listed for both the uncorrectable and pending sector count, but doesn't show up as a warning or any concerns. The 4TB drive has 94 in both of those categories and everything I use to test basically says the drive is hosed and to replace it. Is there something I'm missing here? Why would there be no warnings with a higher count? Is the 4TB drive not long for this world?
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Aug 1, 2016 01:26
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I'm having a problem with my Lenovo X220 laptop. I have the IPS screen. The past two days I've started to have glitches where a column in the screen about 2 inches wide from top to bottom will start flashing bits of code, or screwing around with the image on that part of the screen, or just flashing stuff. It's usually that strip but sometimes squares will pop up off-center in the middle of the screen. What's particularly strange is that when it starts flashing I can adjust the angle of the screen and that takes care of the error for a while, but eventually it comes back and I have to adjust the screen angle again. Other than that the computer's running fine. Any ideas what it might be? I think there's a bad connection but I'm no expert. Also, if I have to take it in for a repair are there any national chains that are better than others?
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Aug 1, 2016 01:45
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Filthy Hans posted:I'm having a problem with my Lenovo X220 laptop. I have the IPS screen. The past two days I've started to have glitches where a column in the screen about 2 inches wide from top to bottom will start flashing bits of code, or screwing around with the image on that part of the screen, or just flashing stuff. It's usually that strip but sometimes squares will pop up off-center in the middle of the screen. What's particularly strange is that when it starts flashing I can adjust the angle of the screen and that takes care of the error for a while, but eventually it comes back and I have to adjust the screen angle again. Other than that the computer's running fine. It's probably the flexible cable that connects between the screen and the main board. I don't know if it's bad or if it's loose in one of the connectors, but here's a screen replacement guide that kind of shows you where it is and what you have to do to get at it. https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Lenovo+Thinkpad+X220+LCD+Screen+Replacement/56268 I don't know the best value for places to replacement (I'd probably do it myself) but if you were my client I'd recommend a lenovo authorized repair place. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Aug 1, 2016 |
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Aug 1, 2016 02:26
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Rexxed posted:It's probably the flexible cable that connects between the screen and the main board. I don't know if it's bad or if it's loose in one of the connectors,, but here's a screen replacement guide that kind of shows you where it is and what you have to do to get at it. I don't know the best value for places to replacement (I'd probably do it myself) but if you were my client I'd recommend a lenovo authorized repair place. Thanks, I'll check find a Lenovo authorized place then
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Aug 1, 2016 02:28
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Bovril Delight posted:I'm looking at SMART for two drives - one is a 250GB hard drive that I bought with a desktop from CL. The other is a 4TB Seagate model that I bought about a year and a half ago. The smaller drive has 200 listed for both the uncorrectable and pending sector count, but doesn't show up as a warning or any concerns. If that is coming out of CrystalDiskInfo, are you telling us the raw values?
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Aug 1, 2016 08:53
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Paul MaudDib posted:It's a good policy to leave at least 10% unpartitioned as a safety so that the drive can move files around to do wear leveling. 20% is on the aggressive side, especially for a drive that isn't seeing a lot of writes like a Steam disk. I thought that it was just leave 10-20% of the drive formatted and empty... not unformatted, I could be incorrect, but I'm pretty sure you want to format it otherwise those sectors won't get put into the TRIM rotation?
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Aug 1, 2016 11:44
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With Samsung, you can just let the firmware (Samsung Magician) overprovision the 10% so youo don't have to worry about it. It basically creates a separate partition that can't be touched.
ufarn fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Aug 1, 2016 |
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Aug 1, 2016 11:49
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MF_James posted:I thought that it was just leave 10-20% of the drive formatted and empty... not unformatted, I could be incorrect, but I'm pretty sure you want to format it otherwise those sectors won't get put into the TRIM rotation?
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Aug 1, 2016 13:46
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Buying a 1070, says it needs 8 pin power connector and 1+4. Mine is divided into 6,2 and 4, is it the same thing or do I need a new power supply?
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Aug 1, 2016 13:46
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bat duck posted:Buying a 1070, says it needs 8 pin power connector and 1+4. Mine is divided into 6,2 and 4, is it the same thing or do I need a new power supply? E: Yeah that is a standard GTX 1070. Alereon fucked around with this message at 13:54 on Aug 1, 2016 |
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Aug 1, 2016 13:49
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Alereon posted:What graphics card? Most 1070s just use a single 8-pin (6+2) cable from the power supply, plus power from the slot. gainward founders edition. but if 6+2 is the same Im good.
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Aug 1, 2016 13:50
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So I have a HDD that's failing on me. I started to notice because when browsing the files on that drive everything was slow. I managed to copy most of the content to another drive. However I have about half a dozen of remaining files that I can't seem to recover using the Windows Explorer. The files get copied really slowly (like 1.2 MB/s) and then get stuck at 0 MB/s: Thing is, Windows' chkdsk tells me the disk is fine. CrystalDiskInfo can't even read the SMART values from that drive. Is there anything I can do to try and retrieve those files? All the "data loss" software I've tried seem to look only for deleted files, not corrupdated/hard-to-read ones.
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Aug 1, 2016 15:50
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Furism posted:So I have a HDD that's failing on me. I started to notice because when browsing the files on that drive everything was slow. I managed to copy most of the content to another drive. However I have about half a dozen of remaining files that I can't seem to recover using the Windows Explorer. The files get copied really slowly (like 1.2 MB/s) and then get stuck at 0 MB/s: I've used roadkil's unstoppable copier to move things off a dying drive a couple of times: http://www.roadkil.net/program.php/P29/Unstoppable%20Copier If the stuff on the disk is too corrupt it won't be able to get it, but it won't fail out like the windows file copy. Turn on the logging so you'll know what files it can't get when it's done.
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Aug 1, 2016 16:21
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Gromit posted:If that is coming out of CrystalDiskInfo, are you telling us the raw values? Ah, makes more sense. The good drive has 0 in both current pending sector count and uncorrectable sector count. The bad drive raw value is a bunch of zeros then 450 for both. I'm assuming that's Real Bad. DiskCheckup has it as 1104 in both.
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Aug 1, 2016 23:51
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Bovril Delight posted:Ah, makes more sense. The good drive has 0 in both current pending sector count and uncorrectable sector count. Yeah, SMART data can be weird. Don't quote me, but I think some of those values tell you what the threshold is before it sends an error, and the current value that is counting down from the threshold to zero. This means those numbers can be useless. But the raw value should be the actual number of "hits" for that entry, and so more useful. But like I said, I think that's how it works as I've not read up on it lately to confirm my dubious memory.
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Aug 2, 2016 03:44
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For SMART error values, the drive does internal math to turn the raw error count into the value in the Current column, which starts at 100 or 200 and counts down as errors are encountered. Once it drops below the value in the Threshold column SMART considers the drive to have failed. This is less useful than it would seem as it takes a LOT of errors to push the SMART values down so drives will typically die completely or get replaced because of the symptoms of their failure before SMART decides they've died. SMART isn't very sensitive because back when it was designed it was assumed that a correctly functioning drive would accumulate errors like bad sectors at some rate over its life, and that failure would be indicated by increasing error rates or a certain total number of errors. We now know that a correctly functioning drive doesn't experience errors like bad sectors, and the first time it logs one it means the drive has begun to fail. Drive manufacturers could make SMART more sensitive but then they would have to deal with more failures being identified during the warranty period. Alereon fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Aug 2, 2016 |
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Aug 2, 2016 04:40
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Wilford Cutlery posted:
So I was mistaken, this board does have onboard sound. I plugged it into the built-in speaker jack of the monitor but no POST beep codes. Nothing on screen either, in fact I resorted to unplugging everything internal and external except the sound and video card. Nothing, removed the video card hoping for any beeps, nothing. I know I used to have that Soyo diagnostic card showing the POST code, if I can find it I'll try it and see what code it returns. That aside I'm open to other suggestions.
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Aug 2, 2016 05:25
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Rexxed posted:I've used roadkil's unstoppable copier to move things off a dying drive a couple of times: I tried this after you suggested it but didn't work. It seems that if the software gets stuck all you can do is reboot because you can't kill it :/
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Aug 2, 2016 07:12
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Furism posted:I tried this after you suggested it but didn't work. It seems that if the software gets stuck all you can do is reboot because you can't kill it :/ Sorry to hear that, I've had luck with it and it'd just skip files it couldn't copy completely. Your disk may be dying more quickly than you thought and it can't cope with it or something.
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Aug 2, 2016 08:45
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I have a 1U server (S2600CP2 board) at home that's putting out 77dB from the 5 40mm fans that are running at 12k RPM. Adjusting the PWM offset and acoustic profile did nothing. I've thought up four ways to make it quiet enough that I can leave it running: A) Get some quieter Noctua fans and deal with the low airflow somehow B) Install a pair of Corsair H60s C) Mount a fan unit directly over the motherboard and hope it's quieter/provides decent airflow D) Move to a house where I can store the rack in the garage What's my best option here?
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Aug 3, 2016 15:32
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Shalhavet posted:I have a 1U server (S2600CP2 board) at home that's putting out 77dB from the 5 40mm fans that are running at 12k RPM. Adjusting the PWM offset and acoustic profile did nothing. I've thought up four ways to make it quiet enough that I can leave it running: Server units are meant to be sitting in a datacenter where no one can hear them. They are known for being loud as hell, particularly since fans consume space that could be used for more hardware. They are also usually intended to be used in an airconditioned environment with decent airflow and will not handle reduced airflow that well. If you're willing to run with the case open I would try to install a better CPU cooler, other than that I think it's option 4.
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Aug 3, 2016 15:59
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Shalhavet posted:I have a 1U server (S2600CP2 board) at home that's putting out 77dB from the 5 40mm fans that are running at 12k RPM. Adjusting the PWM offset and acoustic profile did nothing. I've thought up four ways to make it quiet enough that I can leave it running: If you're really serious about still using a server case computer and getting it quiet, installing a watercooler would certainly help (that'll only really help for some of the cooling needs though, other components will still need the small fans which will still be pretty loud). But you're probably better off remounting the motherboard and components into a tower case designed for holding serverboards. It'll take up more space, sure, but it'll be so much easier to equip it with nice quiet fans while still maintaining appropriate airflow.
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Aug 3, 2016 16:03
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Paul MaudDib posted:Server units are meant to be sitting in a datacenter where no one can hear them. They are known for being loud as hell, particularly since fans consume space that could be used for more hardware. They are also usually intended to be used in an airconditioned environment with decent airflow and will not handle reduced airflow that well. fishmech posted:If you're really serious about still using a server case computer and getting it quiet, installing a watercooler would certainly help (that'll only really help for some of the cooling needs though, other components will still need the small fans which will still be pretty loud). Thanks for the quick replies. It's the VM host for my home *nix test range sitting in a 12U rack with the PDU, UPS, and a 3750E, so I'd prefer to keep it a 1U for now. I'm leaning towards the watercoolers and cutting hose ports in the top cover so I can use a few of the quieter fans for the other bits.
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Aug 3, 2016 16:20
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Shalhavet posted:Thanks for the quick replies. It's the VM host for my home *nix test range sitting in a 12U rack with the PDU, UPS, and a 3750E, so I'd prefer to keep it a 1U for now. I'm leaning towards the watercoolers and cutting hose ports in the top cover so I can use a few of the quieter fans for the other bits.
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Aug 3, 2016 16:42
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I am about to buy this modem (https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00AJHDZSI/) and it has the option of an upgraded model with wifi built in. I have a mediocre wifi router which I was going to replace in a month anyway, is the upgrade worth it or is there a better wireless to get?
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Aug 4, 2016 15:45
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goodness posted:I am about to buy this modem (https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00AJHDZSI/) and it has the option of an upgraded model with wifi built in. I have a mediocre wifi router which I was going to replace in a month anyway, is the upgrade worth it or is there a better wireless to get?
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Aug 4, 2016 16:35
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The front and top fan of my tower both started scraping against their screens, I assume they need to be replaced? I fidgeted with them a bit and they both seem to be wobbling a bit. Will I be fine with those fans off until they get replaced? I'm mostly just playing PSX games on it.
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Aug 5, 2016 03:26
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Elderbean posted:The front and top fan of my tower both started scraping against their screens, I assume they need to be replaced? I fidgeted with them a bit and they both seem to be wobbling a bit. Will I be fine with those fans off until they get replaced? I'm mostly just playing PSX games on it. Yeah when the bearings get noisy (or loose, which is pretty bad) then usually you just buy some new fans. They should be okay while you wait on the replacement unless they totally stop.
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Aug 5, 2016 03:42
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Rusty posted:No, I unplugged everything, it doesn't even post now, it has a red led lit up indicating a CPU issue. I am betting on it being a MB issue, but I wonder if I should RMA both.
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Aug 7, 2016 00:24
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I bought a WD Red, WD60EFRX. The shop said it is 7200 RPM, but the model appears as 5400 when I look it up on PCPP and elsewhere. Is there somewhere in Windows where I can clarify what the actual RPM is?
ufarn fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Aug 7, 2016 |
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Aug 7, 2016 14:04
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Every WD Red is 5400rpm to my knowledge.
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Aug 7, 2016 14:23
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Red 'Pro' are the 7200 ones Unless you have one of them, its 5400
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Aug 7, 2016 14:38
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Well that's loving great. Guess I'll need to have a word with them.
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Aug 7, 2016 14:41
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I spilt some loving water on my computer last week (its normally wide open on its side chilling on the floor next to my desk..) and it immediately sizzled, I dont get any response from trying to turn it on, no lights or fans or anything. Luckily from being on its side the water just mostly collected on the bottom with a tiny bit on the CPU cooler and ram sticks. Today I'm going out to replace the motherboard in hopes that it was the only thing damaged. The CPU was dry because the cooling fan for it is enormous and blocked the water getting to it, the power supply was also untouched. But some of my friends are claiming that a water damaged mobo can cause damage to the PSU as well even with surge protection. I'm, like, on the brink if sacrificing to gaal and releasing some captive doves to observe the godly omens. Fuuuck, this pressure is too real. I need to get back to my work and gaming soon as hell and I'm on a budget of affording just a single part per week.
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Aug 8, 2016 22:37
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Imapanda posted:I spilt some loving water on my computer last week (its normally wide open on its side chilling on the floor next to my desk..) and it immediately sizzled, I dont get any response from trying to turn it on, no lights or fans or anything. Luckily from being on its side the water just mostly collected on the bottom with a tiny bit on the CPU cooler and ram sticks.  I... can't tell the difference between real and fakeposts anymore.Good luck. I hope the new mobo fixes things. If not, get a Rasperberry Pi and cry a lot.
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Aug 9, 2016 19:41
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Imapanda posted:I spilt some loving water on my computer last week (its normally wide open on its side chilling on the floor next to my desk..) and it immediately sizzled, I dont get any response from trying to turn it on, no lights or fans or anything. Luckily from being on its side the water just mostly collected on the bottom with a tiny bit on the CPU cooler and ram sticks. Depending on what it hit you could have blown up literally anything. You could have bridged traces with different voltage levels, or shorted them to ground, etc. I would start with the motherboard, but who knows.
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Aug 9, 2016 22:55
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Imapanda posted:Fuuuck, this pressure is too real. I need to get back to my work and gaming soon as hell and I'm on a budget of affording just a single part per week. Count however many parts you have in your computer, that is how many weeks it will take to get it fixed
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Aug 10, 2016 18:20
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