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Windows 7 has been out of support for half a year now, I think it's time to let it go instead of going for more and more convoluted workarounds.
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Jun 18, 2020 23:29
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Would something simple like a Belkin Rockstar fit your needs?
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Jun 18, 2020 23:51
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You should upgrade because Windows 7 is no longer getting any security updates. Unless you love having your PC taken over, it's time to let go.
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Jun 19, 2020 00:15
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But IBM Deathstar!
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Jun 29, 2020 00:01
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USB 3 causes terrible interference in the 2.4 GHz range, a short extension cable really helps if you don't have any USB 2.0 ports (and even then the proximity to USB 3 ports might still make a short USB 2.0 extension cable useful). In general, custom dongles are way more reliable than Bluetooth, but your kilometerage may vary. Fame Douglas fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Jun 29, 2020 |
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Jun 29, 2020 21:29
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It's standard for pretty much all modern 3.5" drives. If you don't mind voiding the warranty, simply bend the pin upwards with a box cutter, it will break off cleanly.
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Jul 6, 2020 20:14
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Realtek sound drivers are something I avoid like the plague, but I guess I only have regular Stereo needs. So the generic Windows driver suffices.
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Jul 17, 2020 09:23
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Rinkles posted:I noticed a faint chirpy noise when changing tabs, and sometimes scrolling in chrome. At first I thought it was the laptop itself, but the noise stopped as soon as I unplugged it and ran it off battery. The source was the power adapter. Is this just one of those things like coil whine you have to accept, or can something be done to mitigate it? Not much you can do, expect for trying to put a drop of hot glue on the offending coil or replacing it and hoping you're getting one that exhibits less coil whine. Fame Douglas fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Jul 18, 2020 |
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Jul 18, 2020 19:52
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The issue is that with dual-rank RAM, one stick acts like two to the RAM controller - which is why four sticks of dual-rank RAM rarely ever run at full speed (how fast is possible depends on the CPU). In your case, your existing sticks are single-rank as well as the one's you're planning on buying. In addition, you're not running them at very high speeds. You should be fine.
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Jul 19, 2020 10:05
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Saukkis posted:No, you just got lucky with PSUs that had compatible connectors. Supposedly even PSUs from the same manufacturer may have different pinouts. That's because OEMs are the ones actually manufacturing and designing these power supplies, and Corsair (and others) sells power supplies made by multiple OEMs.
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Jul 25, 2020 22:09
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Ghost Leviathan posted:So apparently Logitech's quality control has absolutely poo poo the bed in the last couple years or so, and I'm probably going to be returning the second set of speakers in a row. Where should I be looking for some modestly priced, reliable computer speakers? I've been very happy with the Creative GigaWorks T20 for many years now.
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Jul 28, 2020 10:01
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The real recommendation is to disable CSM/Legacy boot and install in UEFI mode. Then this won't happen.
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Jul 30, 2020 12:49
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Epsilon Plus posted:Probably an obvious question (and hopefully not too much for the thread) but I'd like to get an opinion before I open my PC back up. Everything is 100% fine, there's nothing to troubleshoot. Enjoy your system.
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Jul 31, 2020 08:47
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I increased the fan step down time in the BIOS and set it to spin at a fixed speed up to 70°
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Jul 31, 2020 09:36
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Rexxed posted:The USB powered units are usually laptop drives inside since USB 3.0 ports can deliver around 10 watts. I've found they have similar failure rates between brands and (as far as I know) none of them are SMR, so you should be okay to buy whichever you can find cheapest. Pretty much every external USB drive (and 2.5" drive in general) starting from 1 TB is SMR these days. I think only Toshiba still makes non-SMR 1 TB drives, and the larger capacities are guaranteed to be SMR.
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Aug 1, 2020 05:39
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No, it's a single network - basically WiFi, but over power cables - just way worse. Powerline is terrible, only use it if you have absolutely no other choice. If you have any kind of DSL-based internet (if it comes through a phone line, especially when it is high-speed), it will interfere with that as well.
Fame Douglas fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Aug 8, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 23:35
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It's very susceptible to any kind of interference, like a refrigerator or vacuum cleaner could disrupt the signal severely. And getting 10% of the bandwidth advertised is a realistic "best case scenario". In addition, Powerline induces way more latency than WiFi. Absolutely don't use if it you have a DSL connection, otherwise, use it if it's a last resort. WiFi is way better. Fame Douglas fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Aug 8, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 23:47
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MarcusSA posted:I have never seen this. It's not an extreme difference, but it's absolutely noticeable. It's in the 10-20 ms range, which isn't insignificant.
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Aug 8, 2020 23:50
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WiFi will absolutely provide a better and more consistent experience most of the time. Powerline is something you use when you have no other choice.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:05
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Yes, Powerline can provide a satisfying experience, but it's simply dependent on so many variables as to not be terrible (and even then, it's comparatively slow) it's very hard to recommend. Especially with the severe interference issues it causes and is degraded by (like the aforementioned refrigerators).
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Aug 9, 2020 00:06
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Rinkles posted:The problem for me was that the wifi signal was weak and inconsistent That is what Powerline is for - but with many electrical installations, Powerline isn't a solution for bridging larger distances. And with some connection types, the interference Powerline causes will degrade the internet connection. It's a very inconsistent technology.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:07
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repiv posted:My WiFi goes to poo poo when we use the microwave but the powerline doesn't skip a beat 5 GHz WiFi doesn't have that issue. Powerline is terrible technology that can be useful.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:08
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It's still terrible technology that won't work for many use cases and that causes tons of interference issues. You really don't need to be so defensive. Also, I'm highly skeptical you're getting 500 Mbit/s through Powerline, that's pretty much impossible outside of very ideal conditions.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:12
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repiv posted:I'll admit I haven't observed it actually pushing 500mbit/s (that's the link speed reported by the adapters) but whatever the actual bandwidth is it's faster than my internet connection so it doesn't really matter. You're lucky to get 10% of the link speed with Powerline, there's no way you're even close to 500 Mbit/s. With WiFi, it's about 50%, and with Ethernet, about 90%
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Aug 9, 2020 00:27
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MarcusSA posted:Come on now. We are just saying it works for us and you are saying it's terrible. I very much agree with this, Powerline can absolutely work well. WiFi extenders are pretty much always terrible, including mesh setups. Without an Ethernet backbone (or even Powerline), extending WiFi isn't easily done.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:29
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Shibawanko posted:related question: im currently using a powerline to pass a tv signal on through another part of the house, which kind of sucks and results in lag in the tv sometimes, but theres no other way to do it (my house doesnt have coaxial cables, the internet and tv come through fibreglass). im using an older powerline, is it possible that the problem can be resolved by just buying a newer powerline set or is it likely to be something inherent to the electrical wiring in my house that will always bottleneck it somehow? Powerline is incredibly inconsistent, this is the expected experience using this horrible technology.
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Aug 13, 2020 23:51
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Switches need to be powered.
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Aug 14, 2020 21:25
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MarcusSA posted:I’m kinda chuckling to my self how it’s 2020 and wireless mice still have issues. Also, enormous security holes. Logitech especially has been terrible about this.
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Aug 20, 2020 21:32
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phosdex posted:We have hundreds of the Logitech M510s at work, I haven't heard any complaints about them. And I use a G305 at home and it's worked great. I used to have problems with the click mechanism, but some time ago Logitech switched to a different click thing and since then they've been ok for me. Well, at least hackers will have an easy time with the company you work for.
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Aug 20, 2020 22:31
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phosdex posted:post links This was posted in the mice thread a while back: https://www.heise.de/ct/artikel/Logitech-keyboards-and-mice-vulnerable-to-extensive-cyber-attacks-4464533.html Unless all those receivers were updated (and even then, they're still horrifically insecure), they're all easily attacked. Logitech's Unifying receivers are all terrible.
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Aug 20, 2020 22:35
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Flat surfaces like the back of the graphics card I sometimes wipe down carefully with ethanol, but other than that, even a compressor will leave a thin layer of dust.
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Aug 30, 2020 18:37
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VelociBacon posted:You can use online calculators to find how much wattage you need for your system (given what components are installed). I wouldn't worry about it too much but I think the PSUs operate most efficiently when they're at about 80% of total load. Most graphs by PSU manufacturers show them to be most efficient at 50% load. fennesz posted:Getting to the point where I might need to replace an under powered PSU. Other things to consider that weren't already mentioned: Passive/half-passive (fan is off while the system isn't under heavy load), overall efficiency (less power consumed, less heat generated) especially at lower loads (where the system will operate most of the time). Steer clear of those extremely cheap no-name PSUs, better to get a brand name.
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Aug 31, 2020 09:04
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Rolo posted:Look at how small the airflow holes are drilled. Should I just give up and get the Fractal C mini? Check out the Fractal Meshify C if you're into good airflow. It's still a quiet case. Personally, I have 2 NF-A14 PWM for input in the front and 1 NF-S12A PWM going out in the back.
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Sep 8, 2020 18:08
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The Ethernet controller isn't involved with wireless at all. But if it's an older laptop with a .g WiFi card, then 30 Mbps is an excellent result and pretty much the best you're going to get out of it without replacing the wireless card. .g has a theoretical maximum of 54 Mbps, so getting a little more than half of that in real-world speed is fantastic for the standard.
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Sep 16, 2020 10:05
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DarkestLite posted:Hey, so I just built my new PC and it’s running without issue on the first try! I feel like my CPU is idling too hot, though. All the fans are on, but it seems to be idling at 50+ C and even installing the bios update right now it’s 42C. I’ve seen it go as high as 63 and I haven’t done anything but setup my plex server and install programs. This is 100% normal for your CPU, everything is working fine.
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Sep 17, 2020 07:27
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Geemer posted:I remember MSI posting a very proud blog post about how their latest bios update took it down to just 22 seconds, a while ago. That is just bios time, not even boot to desktop. My MSI board has a 14 second BIOS time (according to Task Manager) in UEFI mode (which does accelerate the booting process).
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Sep 20, 2020 00:14
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VelociBacon posted:Do you have fast boot stuff enabled in your BIOS? That still seems like a long boot but what do I know. I can't quite remember exactly how to see it (Event Viewer?) but there's a more detailed way to see your startup performance with the services being started etc and I recommend googling to find that. Also, is Windows installed in UEFI mode (legacy takes more time) and is it set to be the first boot location.
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Sep 20, 2020 11:42
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DarkestLite posted:Just checked and it is UEFI. Though I still think it's looking for USB before my NVMe so I'll fix that and look for fast boot. In that case, disable legacy boot (usually called something like "CSM") as well.
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Sep 20, 2020 22:26
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The USB-C port on modern graphics card works as a standard USB port as well.
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Sep 21, 2020 17:05
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DarkestLite posted:I think anything I saw said UEFI for boot too. I'm so lost on the BIOS stuff though but didn't see anything that said CSM or Legacy Boot on. It helps my BIOS has a search function, though screenshots didn't seem to work for it. From your screenshot, everything seems set up correctly. If you want to double-check, the setting is here (I saved the screenshot to an USB thumb drive): 
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Sep 21, 2020 17:32
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