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FuzzKill posted:Fans. Lots of fans. Also, the building will be insulated. You're in Texas, aren't you? I'd really suggest doing a ductless split system, at the very least (I'm not sure if only one will be able to cool that much space though). Or a couple of large through the wall HVAC units (the hotel style ones). Those would likely be your cheapest options to cool it. Or do what my mechanic did and find a used, but still pretty new (i.e. higher SEER rating) self-contained RTU that's been setup to blow through a wall instead of sitting on a roof. At the very least, one or two fans that go through the roof or walls. I don't remember if you mentioned if you have 3 phase out there or not (I assume not) - but if you do, my mechanic has a fairly new 7 ton RTU for his shop. Keeps the shop area at 75 in the summer (office/waiting room has its own 1.5 ton single phase unit set at 72), and his highest electric bill - for the entire shop, with two 2 post lifts, electric overhead doors, and high bay lighting - has been less than $250. He built the entire place out himself (it was an empty metal building when he got it, with 2 manual roll up doors). It helps that he insulated the poo poo out of it, and got a high efficiency a/c unit. The 3 phase also helps a lot, and he's in a city where the city owns the power grid (rates are much cheaper than, say, Dallas, which has deregulated the electric and phone markets). e: Portable units are absolute garbage unless they're the kind that use water. And if you're in a humid area (and if you're in south FL, like fucknag says you are), they're useless. At the least, run a decent enough power service to handle an a/c in the future if it's not affordable right now. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Dec 4, 2014 |
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Dec 4, 2014 07:16
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 18:22 |
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I replaced a single incandescent socket in the garage with a 2x32W T8 fixture. Even though it's not saving a whole lot of energy (the socket had a 300W "replacement" CFL in it that took 5-10 minutes to actually give a decent amount of light), it's a shitload more light, and it's instant on, instead of the ~5 minute warmup that the CFL needed. On the coldest of days it's a little dim for a minute, at most. That CFL is now in one of the attic light fixtures... and still takes 5+ minutes before it actually puts out much more light than a 5 watt nightlight. The fixture was less than  though it's a lovely fixture that doesn't even have a wire channel cover (all the wiring is supposed to be done in the junction box above it, but the wires don't reach; I have no idea how it got UL listed). I plan to replace it with 2-3 quality 4xT8 fixtures before summer.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Jan 23, 2015 |
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Jan 23, 2015 12:17
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Mat_Drinks posted:Serious question, why all of the concern regarding running CAT5/6 to a garage? Do you guys do most of your internet surfing from the garage? How does wifi not meet the needs you have? Even within my house - which is a decently sized house, but not massive (2200 sq ft), we have several wifi dead spots. The master bedroom is a black hole that gets about 5mbit on a good day with tons of packet loss, and it's less than 200 ft away from the router. The garage gets such a weak signal that wifi may as well not exist. Powerline Ethernet adapters are decent for the most basic web browsing, but not much else, at least with our wiring. This is why I'm wiring the house with cat5e right now (I couldn't justify the added cost of 6 or 6a, when I'm only doing gigabit). The bitch will be wiring the kitchen and garage, since the attic is impossible to traverse from one end to the other. The garage is higher on the priority list to be honest, it'd be nice to put a cheap TV and a Roku out there, or at least some kind of streaming music player (there's an old Sansui receiver and speakers out there now - could use new caps, but still works).
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Apr 17, 2015 07:48
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6 bulb T8 fixtures.... lots of them... You're gonna need some really good sunglasses when you flip that switch for the first time. 
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Apr 24, 2015 08:54
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FuzzKill posted:Both outdoor lights are LED - since they will be on all night I didn't want a huge power draw. They came out nice, I may swap out the outdoor fixtures on the house to some of those. The small light I've swapped all of our (line voltage) outdoor lighting to LED, save for one (which is now CFL), and changed the front landscape lighting to only run for 6 hours after dusk, instead of dusk to dawn (rear landscape lighting is now only on when we're in the back yard - connected to an outlet/switch originally installed for a fountain that's no longer out there, instead of running dusk till dawn). It made a huge difference in the electric bill. Our front porch lighting now pulls ~14 watts instead of 360 (I did go with much dimmer LEDs, the 3x60 watt bulbs in each fixture were massive overkill, camera can still pick up everything just fine), back porch now pulls 67 watts instead of 360 (6x50W halogen lights in the eves replaced with 9W LEDs, 60W wall lamp now has a 13W CFL). These are obviously just incandescent replacements, not LED fixtures, but they work well and look good.
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May 11, 2015 12:11
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What I wanna know is how the hell did he destroy that engine?  Looks like a very well cared for truck, if the engine bay is anything to go by - you could eat dinner off of that bellhousing.For what it's worth, every screw drive opener I've had gets louder than poo poo once they get a few years on them. Granted, they've never been maintained very well before I got them, but my current one (mid 90s Genie) sounds like it's going to rip itself off of the mounts even after the track and screw have been freshly greased (quiets it down significantly). The only reason I haven't replaced it yet is laziness - the remote receiver doesn't work anymore, the IR beams constantly poo poo out (you have to smack them to get them working again), and even with proper Genie Screw Grease  it's still a herky jerky mess while closing. New spring on the door, door is aligned fine, door is perfectly balanced and moves easily by hand; I've gone so far as to replace nearly every bolt/screw in the door, since most of the hinge screws were ripping through the sheet metal (and the door opener arm actually did tear free once).They do seem to tolerate a lot more neglect than a chain unit, but I would much rather have a chain or cable drive, simply because they're so much quieter. They need a little more maintenance, but they're also easier to work on IMO. Also for what it's worth, my mechanic had commercial Lift Masters installed in his shop (two overhead doors). They seem to use the same remotes as the residential models, but they seem to attach to one of the cables between the bottom panel and spring - and also automatically lock once closed (sliding lock into the frame, one on both sides). Really nice units, really quiet. I have absolutely no idea what the cost difference would be though. His only gripe is anytime he gets near them (they seem to have a mix of motions and IR beams - I haven't figured it out entirely, but I've tripped them by walking within 5 ft of the doors), the lights come on (and they're wall mounted instead of ceiling). He hates the lights, but he was trying to stay 100% legal and pulled a permit.
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Jun 22, 2015 11:02
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Last I remember, the Toyota was parked to get some engine work done (MOAR POWER?!). Or was that the Colorado? I think the Colorado got a bigger engine (..again) at some point. I remember the VW, really curious what happened there. I know the electrical was a nightmare on it. Now that you mention it, I don't think I've seen either of them make a recent appearance. 
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Jun 26, 2015 08:32
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FuzzKill posted:Corolla is in the yard, engineless. I've kind of lost most interest in it, I'd like to find a first gen Celica and put that drivetrain into it. That would make for a much better driver. I'd also consider an old Z and probably use the spare 6.0L I have instead, but all these old Japanese cars are made of cardboard =( Didn't the Colorado go through 2 engine swaps? I seem to remember it originally getting a smaller V8 (5.3?) in the first engine swap, though I may be mixing up AI projects. I also remember it starting as a bare bones work truck, and getting factory equipment to upgrade to keyless entry, power locks, etc (and also remember how much poo poo you got for your choice of torque converter). How much re-tuning did you need to do when you removed the blower?
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Jun 29, 2015 07:51
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CharlesM posted:You can turn that feature off, yo. There's no light button on his, IIRC. It's a LCD panel with a button to open/close, and another button to lock. I think. I haven't been by in awhile, but I definitely remember one of them always showing "LOCKED" (the door he rarely uses). They're actually mounted to the door itself, and attach where the chain to open/close the door would normally go. I know the doors can be programmed to automatically engage the locks after they've been closed for awhile - I think he has his setup to lock after a few minutes. There's an emergency release for both of the locks on each door (which engage on both tracks) and another to disengage the opener. His are industrial models intended for roll-up doors, with a completely separate light module. I'll send that link to him anyway though, in case I'm remembering wrong. They share the light module between the two doors somehow, and the remotes are the typical 3 button you see for a home install on either Chamberlain or Lift Master. One button for one door, one for the other.
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Jul 3, 2015 02:42
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Goddamn!  That truck cleaned up real purty!  What do you think you have into it? I know Toyotas in general tend to command a premium over anything else, and the Tundra especially so, so that should give you a real nice profit. Might help pay for one of the lifts anyway. BrokenKnucklez posted:But seriously. gently caress GM fuel pumps, the worst offenders were the 96-02 models. If you farted in the wrong direction they would poo poo. I got news for you, the 06-08 ones aren't that great either. Except instead of taking a poo poo, the ports on them crack. Finally figured out the reason my car reeks of gas is one of the (loving PLASTIC) ports on mine has cracked. Got under the car, couldn't find anything damp, but once I reached up around the suspension and felt the top of the tank... yup, soaking wet. At least there's a special bulletin out that extends the fuel pump warranty (specifically for this issue, and only this issue) for the life of the car.
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Jul 5, 2015 05:43
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I almost feel bad for the previous owner of the Tundra now, that really turned into a hell of a flip. Plenty of work, but you should see a nice profit. Any idea how the hell they grenaded the engine? That was some pretty impressive damage.
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Jul 12, 2015 02:50
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So you do have an open line of credit with Discount Tire, right?
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Jul 20, 2015 13:46
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psst, literally a fish, quick, get the Vantasy towed here! Serious question, why did GM put the transmission in the back on some Vettes?
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Mar 13, 2016 15:55
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GM delta platform condensers have a built in drier, if one of them will fit. I believe the Chevy Sonic condenser is the same way, and would probably be a bit smaller. Shittypost, no they're not.
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Mar 26, 2016 11:37
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Doesn't that have the infamous DCT? You know Ford extended the warranty on those to 7 yr/100k right? It'll make a good flip, but Ford should have covered it unless it was past 100k.
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Sep 18, 2016 10:00
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 18:22 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's remarkable that they hosed up so bad that Dorman was able to reverse-engineer and fix it. Didn't Dorman come out with a replacement 4.6/5.4 intake manifold that fixed the OEM manifold's tendency to crack?
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Sep 19, 2016 03:42
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