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Seat heaters are (supposed to be) sealed and waterproof. Standard upholstery cleaners shouldn't have any effect. But if they're that nasty - have you considered seeing what it would take to strip the cloth off so you can really wash it? In a lot of cars it's only held together with hog rings - you can get a box of them and a pair of pliers to crimp new ones for like $20. You'll probably need to pull the seats and potentially unbolt the backs, but it's often just slip off after that. If all that is too much/not feasible - the granular carpet cleaners that are just kinda moist and come with a scrub brush actually work really well.
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Jun 30, 2020 17:58
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm trying to find a way to notify myself of a garage door being left open. I have a shed on the far part of my property that has a garage door on it, I keep the mower and some other expensive stuff in it. My idiot brother in law who is staying with us keeps leaving it open and I'm really tired of having to walk out there every night to make sure it's closed. It's too far for wifi, but with an extender or two I could get it to reach out there. I'd like to set up something that either emails me or texts me at a certain time of day (or night) whether it's open or closed. I can't imagine there's something off the shelf that I can buy, so I don't mind piecing something together myself, I just don't know where to begin. Start here: https://wyze.com/wyze-sense.html And add an outdoor wireless access point of your choosing to reach all the way out to the shed. As a bonus you now have wi-fi in the shed. How far are we talking here? 300 feet? 600 feet?
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Jun 30, 2020 18:37
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I currently have an old, Sony Xplod receiver in my car that I'm looking to replace. Stupid question: if I get a different brand of receiver, will I need a new wiring harness, or can I, theoretically, just plug and play with the one on my current receiver?
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Jun 30, 2020 19:35
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its all nice on rice posted:I currently have an old, Sony Xplod receiver in my car that I'm looking to replace. The vehicle side of the harness will probably be reusable, depending on how it was attached to the old radio harness.
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Jun 30, 2020 19:41
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its all nice on rice posted:I currently have an old, Sony Xplod receiver in my car that I'm looking to replace. Nope but maybe, and hope to hell the PO didn't gently caress things up with factory stuff. Google Metra wiring products.
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Jun 30, 2020 20:29
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C-Bangin' it 
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Motronic posted:Seat heaters are (supposed to be) sealed and waterproof. Standard upholstery cleaners shouldn't have any effect. I pulled off the cover in my beater to install a seat heater, and yeah its not too bad. Also, mega protip after wrestling with hog rings: just use zipties. A billion times faster and easier.
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Jun 30, 2020 20:52
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GOD IS BED posted:I think getting an alignment done with some a little bit of toe in will help that. It sounds like you have a little toe out right now, so your steering gets twitchy at speed. Thanks for the suggestion! It definitely seemed to ride better on the ride home from the dealership. The print out they gave me said the front right wheel toe was -.32 minutes when i brought it in, and the acceptable range is between -.08 and .08. How actually bad was that?
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Jun 30, 2020 22:13
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Head Bee Guy posted:Thanks for the suggestion! It definitely seemed to ride better on the ride home from the dealership. The print out they gave me said the front right wheel toe was -.32 minutes when i brought it in, and the acceptable range is between -.08 and .08. How actually bad was that? Tire-destroyingly out. I bet that was terrifying on wet roads.
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Jun 30, 2020 22:40
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wolrah posted:You will almost certainly need a new radio side of the harness. The radio should come with this. Was hoping it'd be the same connection, since I got a newer Sony receiver, but it wasn't. Luckily the color coding was all the same, and it was a simple swap. Thanks!
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Jun 30, 2020 23:37
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opengl128 posted:When this happens to Mustangs, it's a low battery (car battery, not the fob). 2019 is pretty new for that but if it's been sitting a lot lately like many of our cars have been it's worth checking out. Cheers for the heads up on that. It's a good point though i'm maybe only using it a little less than before Covid (i used to take public transport into work due to parking restrictions). I'm not travelling as far in it at the weekends as i was but i'm still taking it out for a good 8 mile round trip every Saturday. Is that too infrequent/short a distance for the car battery?
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Jun 30, 2020 23:42
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STR posted:2003 Subaru Outback. Of significance, it has heated cloth seats. Hose it down good with Resolve carpet cleaner, let it sit 10-minutes & then swirl a fingernail brush through the fabric - sorta massage it. Then blot it with a damp cloth. This removed a huge spilled coffee stain from the front (looked like at least 10-oz) & whatever Godzilla puked up on the backseat floor, on an 03 Roadmaster wagon with tan interior. I bought it in 2017 with all of the stains generously included, they had probably been there since at least 2010 (the original owner died in 2013). It cleaned straight up. I think most car manufacturers treat their interiors with Scotchguard or something similar. I've rarely been unable to remove all traces of a stain.
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Jul 1, 2020 01:58
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Beach Bum posted:I'm not interested in an argument, but I am interested in the "why", if you feel up to it. First, it's simply not necessary because the threads are plated to avoid corrosion. Not all plating is the same and it's not 100% effective (corrosion is a powerful force) but it is enough. What happens when you apply antiseize, though, is that you now gently caress up the tightening torque as the antiseize paste acts as a lubricant. So if you apply the "correct" amount of torque then you turn the plug more than you otherwise would/should. This stretches out the plug and you could simply break it off. Or what likely happens is that you've simply removed some of the compressive forces on the internal components of the plug. This negatively affects its ability to transfer heat and in the worst case scenario, overheats, causes pre-ignition, grenades your engine. Does that happen often? No, absolutely not. People use antiseize all the time and get away with it. But you wouldn't tell someone to deliberately over or under inflate their tires either, would you (in general)? Same idea.
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Jul 1, 2020 17:13
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totalnewbie posted:First, it's simply not necessary because the threads are plated to avoid corrosion. Not all plating is the same and it's not 100% effective (corrosion is a powerful force) but it is enough. Oh cripes, it's so obvious once you've explained it. Thank you.
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Jul 1, 2020 18:21
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If there is a car selling thread let me know, I didn't see one. I'll be buying my brother's car since he has kids and his little 2015 Focus ST hatchback is too small now. I have a 2006 Focus sedan, zx4, manual, with 170k miles on it. I'm thinking that instead of doing Craigslist bullshit I would just use Give Me The Vin because I've never sold a car before. Has anyone had experience with this? Is it legit? A ripoff? Should I detail my car before I do it?
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Jul 1, 2020 18:57
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Any car buying company will give you less than what you could get selling locally, but all you gotta do is take a few pics and give them the vin and they'll give you an offer so if you don't like what they offer who cares? People on here have had bad experiences selling on craigslist, but I haven't. Sold two cars, one on CL one on FB marketplace first person to look got em both times.
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Jul 1, 2020 19:12
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I might have a bad CV joint. I just want to make sure I understand how to test it when the car isn't drivable (because I was replacing the strut and now the hub won't bend far enough to get back on). Grab the axle in one hand, the hub in the other, try twisting in opposite directions, if there's play or clicking then the joint is gone? That seems to be what I'm reading but I might be wrong. Boot isn't torn, but I'm worried I might have let the joint flex enough to break it internally. I really loving hope that isn't it, these axles are a bitch and a half to replace because they have to be positioned just right to put a roll pin through them.
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Jul 1, 2020 19:52
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TheReverend posted:Got a Stinger GT2 AWD that needs new tires. I have a 2017 WRX Limited that I initially put Pilot Super Sports on to replace the noisy Dunlops that it came with and they barely lasted any time at all, although they were really good. I replaced them with Pilot Sport 4S that I got on a good deal at Costco ($800 total for 4 after discounts, 245/40R18) and I love them and would highly recommend them. I have not tried the Bridgestone tires myself, but unless the Pilot Sport 4S's take a quick turn for the worse as far as tread life goes, I'll almost undoubtedly replace them with the same.
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Jul 1, 2020 20:26
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shortspecialbus posted:I have a 2017 WRX Limited that I initially put Pilot Super Sports on to replace the noisy Dunlops that it came with and they barely lasted any time at all, although they were really good. That’s weird because the 4s is the successor to the PSS and very similar.
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Jul 1, 2020 20:29
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:That’s weird because the 4s is the successor to the PSS and very similar.  They aren't dying after 15-20,000 miles. Maybe the PSS I got were just bad, but they were.
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Jul 1, 2020 20:35
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  This happened. Should I be worried?
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Jul 1, 2020 21:00
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Speaking solely for myself, there is zero chance I would drive on those anywhere further than the nearest tire shop to see what they say. You might be able to get it replaced for free if it needs it depending where you got it. When I hit a pothole on the interstate at night and blew a tire, Tire Rack replaced it free via the road hazard warranty or whatever. I'm not sure that applies to crunching curbs, but doesn't hurt to check.
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Jul 1, 2020 21:05
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Will a dealership still do a recall for a 15+ year old one?
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Jul 1, 2020 21:14
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kid sinister posted:Will a dealership still do a recall for a 15+ year old one? If it's an actual recall, they should. I had one done on my WJ when it was 11+ years old and I'm sure they'd still do it today.
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Jul 1, 2020 21:19
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yamdankee posted:
If theres no cord showing i wouldn't worry about it though it looks like they might be worn out anyway??
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Jul 1, 2020 21:39
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I might have a bad CV joint. I just want to make sure I understand how to test it when the car isn't drivable (because I was replacing the strut and now the hub won't bend far enough to get back on). Grab the axle in one hand, the hub in the other, try twisting in opposite directions, if there's play or clicking then the joint is gone? That seems to be what I'm reading but I might be wrong. Boot isn't torn, but I'm worried I might have let the joint flex enough to break it internally. Your post makes little sense but you cant break a cv joint by letting it "flex too much" unless it was already broken to begin with. If you're concerned why not pull the boot back and have a look?
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Jul 1, 2020 21:42
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yamdankee posted:
The rim is fine but the tire needs to be replaced, cord showing or not. In Europe this would fail inspection FYI, dunno about the regulatory patchwork in the US so YMMV.
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Jul 1, 2020 21:51
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spankmeister posted:In Europe this would fail inspection FYI, dunno about the regulatory patchwork in the US so YMMV. This would fail inspection in at least Pennsylvania and New Jersey, but of course Alaska, Arkansas, Iowa, Minnesota, Montana, South Carolina, and South Dakota dont have any vehicle inspections at all...........
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Jul 1, 2020 21:59
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spankmeister posted:The rim is fine but the tire needs to be replaced, cord showing or not. Could do with another photo from a better angle but the cut looks really shallow to me, it doesn't appear any deeper than the 'rim protector' portion of the tyre. This wouldn't fail inspection in the UK. Personally i wouldn't be replacing that tyre if it was on my own vehicle. On a customers car I would bring it to the customers attention but wouldn't report it as dangerous.
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Jul 1, 2020 22:01
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totalnewbie posted:First, it's simply not necessary because the threads are plated to avoid corrosion. Not all plating is the same and it's not 100% effective (corrosion is a powerful force) but it is enough. So then what are your thoughts on the infamous Ford 3V plugs.
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Jul 1, 2020 22:53
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fridge corn posted:Your post makes little sense but you cant break a cv joint by letting it "flex too much" unless it was already broken to begin with. If you're concerned why not pull the boot back and have a look? Fair point, I could try that. What I mean is that I was taking the strut out and accidentally let it drop before getting something under the hub, and it fell farther than it could have drooped while attached to the strut. I'm not sure what the maximum range on the joint is before it goes wrong. I'd need to re-pack it with grease if I pulled the boot back, right? Is this stuff good for that? https://www.harborfreight.com/sta-lube-moly-graph-lithium-grease-40712.html I already have an almost completely full tube of that from working on guns, most gun-specific lube is super overpriced because when you put something in a container 5% the size and slap tactical labeling on it you increase the price per unit by 500%. E: Looks like I misunderstood the shape of a CV joint, if I "broke" it, it would have been pulling the outer claw sort of thing out from the inner ball. Hopefully that's not what happened, because I'm not sure how I would fix that aside from replacing the whole drat axle. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jul 1, 2020 |
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Jul 1, 2020 23:03
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Start here: Thanks for the recommendation, I'll take a look at that. I've been meaning to extend the wifi to the back part of my property anyway, I just didn't want to spend the money on that this year with other projects taking priority right now.
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Jul 1, 2020 23:15
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Colostomy Bag posted:So then what are your thoughts on the infamous Ford 3V plugs. It's my understanding that we refused to make them and had to refuse repeatedly.
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Jul 2, 2020 01:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Fair point, I could try that. What I mean is that I was taking the strut out and accidentally let it drop before getting something under the hub, and it fell farther than it could have drooped while attached to the strut. I'm not sure what the maximum range on the joint is before it goes wrong. If it just fell and went up against its range of motion, you're fine. Putting them back together is a lot easier than you think. If you feel like learning and making a mess, keep one next time you do a replacement and take it apart. They're really simple, honestly.
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Jul 2, 2020 03:17
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 Cheapest way to get it to look okay from 5 feet? Am open to suggestions of fender flares and spacers I don't mind dying don't try me. I like to avoid that side of the car as much as I can but from what I remember the paint feels rough to my fingernail and isn't just on the outside.
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Jul 2, 2020 03:46
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Mild compound. Rub it out.
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Jul 2, 2020 03:48
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For cheapest, I think I'd see how it looked with some wax in the scratches. Second cheapest, compound like they say above
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Jul 2, 2020 03:49
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Meguiar's ultimate compound okay? Ill give it a shot thank you very much. Sub question what would be worse if I bought tires because they were cheap or because they had the same name as my car because honestly its a lil of both. By "cheap" I just meant like not take it to a bodyshop for a respray. Ill buy whatever! Wax and compound Im gonna gently caress that quarter panel UP.
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Jul 2, 2020 03:53
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 2000 Ranger with the 3.0 V6 and 134,000 miles. Went to top off my oil and found this around the oil cap. I have never seen straight antifreeze around an oil cap like this. Milky sludge from a bad head gasket, sure, but never just straight green coolant. Coolant level is normal. No smoke or steam from exhaust. Oil on dipstick looks fine. Engine runs fine. Truck was NOT taken care of in its previous life, it was 10,000 miles past due for an oil change and 2-3 quarts low on oil when I bought it (3000 miles ago). What would cause this, and logically what would my next step be towards narrowing it down? Pressure test of some sort?
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Jul 2, 2020 04:52
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Beach Bum posted:If it just fell and went up against its range of motion, you're fine. Thanks. Not sure what changed, but I just went out and wiggled it around and it flexed fine. Not sure if it's as simple as I was pushing it harder since I was grabbing the point where the hub mounts to the strut and yanking on it rather than pushing on the hub itself or what. Tomorrow morning I'll see if I can get it back together. Just need to do the strut boot first, as I just got a replacement today after one I got was out of spec and wouldn't fit at all.
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Jul 2, 2020 07:56
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I bought a new Forester about a month and a half ago and lately I've noticed what seems to be a very light burning rubber or hot smell. It's so incredibly faint that I can't tell if I'm imagining it or not. My fiancee can't smell it. I took a look under the hood and checked all the hoses I could reach and everything seems to be fine. There's plenty of coolant and oil. I did find a bunch of leaves somehow tucked under the main part of the engine, so maybe that's causing it? I grabbed a vacuum and pulled up as many as I can but I started to pull up some kind of black fabric-y stuff. I stopped vacuuming and pushed it back under. I have noticed that in the sun the dashboard gets extremely hot while driving, like to a degree where I can feel the heat of it when the a/c is going. Not sure if that's normal, it's been about 6 years since I've owned a car. Any ideas? 
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Jul 2, 2020 14:26
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