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Deteriorata posted:Get lots of pictures of the underside of it. A 50 year old CT car may not have much of a frame left. I'll throw a second at this. Also, assume that odometer rolled over and it has 112k. If you do go, take a magnet with you to check for body filler. There will be filler.
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Feb 19, 2021 03:49
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What end of CT? I don't know Darts very well but if you want a second set of eyes on it I might be able to make it out there.
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Feb 19, 2021 03:53
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Brettbot posted:Ok, I'm back with more stupid questions. So you guys convinced me not to just buy any old car and to hold out for a Dart, and after checking Facebook Marketplace there's a '72 Dart 4 door in Connecticut, about 120 miles away from me, listed for $3500 four months ago. There's a lot of Pros: The exact make and model I want, right era, even the right color. According to the ad, all it needs is brakes (I've never done them but I watched some Youtube videos, drum brakes look pretty simple) and there's a leak in the fuel system, maybe the tank or pump, so they've had it running off fuel directly to the carb. It might be 112,000 miles. I had a '74 Dart Custom. Have had several Chrysler products of the 60s and 70s. Big thing is rust, particularly around the wheel wells and along the bottom of the rear quarters. Check the pans, as these are unibody cars. The Darts can leak around the windshield, so you'll see staining or color mismatches on the front carpet in the footwells near the outer body shell/doors. Check the trunk pan from inside the trunk for rust. For $3500 you should be getting a good, solid sedan with the larger slant-6 or 318. If it has factory A/C then it's a better deal. The cars are easy to work on and parts are still relatively cheap. Mine cost $1300, and had very little rust, but the drivetrain was on the way out. I changed out the motor (threw a rod) and the mini Torqueflite (2nd gear kick-down was disconnected for some reason, this can make the transmission go all fucky on shifts). I picked up a low-mileage 6 and transmission for $325 because no one buys a Dart anymore without stuffing a 318, 340 or 383 into it, so there are a ton old slants & tiny transmissions lying around orphaned. 
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Feb 19, 2021 04:10
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Offroad Minivan Update (2000 Toyota Sienna fwd) Rear springs and shocks are easy. Just remove the nuts at the top of the shocks, undo some brake line brackets, and jack up the rear until the springs fall out. Don't even need a spring compressor. I gained 1.5" of ride height just by replacing the old parts with nominally identical new ones. But I have run into problems with the airbags. The instructions want me to insert the bags into the springs with the air line at the bottom, exiting through the lower spring mount. But my lower spring mount is below the rear axle (or would be, if this unibody minivan had a rear axle). That lower mount gets hit A LOT. An airline sticking out the bottom wouldn't last one trip offroad. So I want to install the air bag inside the spring upside-down, with the air line exiting through the upper spring mount. The upper mount has a large hole in the middle, so this would work great if it wasn't welded to the frame rail (or whatever it's called on a unibody). Obvious goon solution: drill a 5/8" hole in the frame and thread some heavy fuel hose through it like a duct to protect the air line from sharp edges. Well, two 5/8" holes, since the hose will need to exit the rail as well. I'm not super worried about strength, since I've seen the rusty shitheaps that drive around in other parts of the country. It'll probably be fine, I hope. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Feb 19, 2021 |
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Feb 19, 2021 05:42
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Drill baby drill. Put some grommets in the holes so the metal doesn't cut into your hose. I guess fuel hose works too, just make sure it's secured so it can't slip out.
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Feb 19, 2021 06:11
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Grakkus posted:I'm looking at buying an SUV for towing (mainly cars), and I was wondering if it's better to have an auto or manual transmission for that purpose? Or does it realistically not make a difference? FWIW my brother needed a vehicle capable of towing a car trailer and ended up buying a Kia Sorento old enough to still be body on frame since those have a really high tow rating at least according to the swedish rules. It's an auto but he went for the petrol v6 since the vehicle tax means he would have to drive a lot farther than he plans to in order to save any money on the much better fuel economy with a diesel. A different non-SUV possibility would be a van, like a Sprinter or Master or something.
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Feb 19, 2021 09:30
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Grakkus posted:I have (a bare minimum of) self respect so I won't be doing this! Tradie van of some kind?
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Feb 19, 2021 14:29
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kastein posted:What end of CT? I don't know Darts very well but if you want a second set of eyes on it I might be able to make it out there. Wow, I really appreciate the offer. It's somewhere in the Manchester/East Windsor area, so middle North? And thanks for the advice, everybody. We'll see what the seller says, and maybe I'll be taking a short road trip soon!
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Feb 19, 2021 16:59
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Hmm, that's about an hour west of me - I'm just over the northeast corner in Mass.
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Feb 19, 2021 19:12
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kastein posted:Hmm, that's about an hour west of me - I'm just over the northeast corner in Mass. Yeah that's a long way, I appreciate the offer though. I actually kinda forgot that my Father In Law has an early '60s Valiant,  so maybe he'd make the drive with me. To be fair, it's been in storage or the garage for as long as I've known my wife, I've never seen him drive it in like 15 years.PainterofCrap posted:Big thing is rust, particularly around the wheel wells and along the bottom of the rear quarters. Check the pans, as these are unibody cars. The Darts can leak around the windshield, so you'll see staining or color mismatches on the front carpet in the footwells near the outer body shell/doors. Check the trunk pan from inside the trunk for rust. Yup, on my '75 there was a big chunk missing right behind the driver's side rear wheel, and basically nothing left underneath the spare tire in the trunk. Brettbot fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Feb 19, 2021 |
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Feb 19, 2021 19:30
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Invalido posted:FWIW my brother needed a vehicle capable of towing a car trailer and ended up buying a Kia Sorento old enough to still be body on frame since those have a really high tow rating at least according to the swedish rules. It's an auto but he went for the petrol v6 since the vehicle tax means he would have to drive a lot farther than he plans to in order to save any money on the much better fuel economy with a diesel. What's the tow capacity on one of those and how usable has he found it? KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Tradie van of some kind? This is tempting but they're really big, at that point I might as well just get a flatbed type van thing. An SUV is more flexible since I can just use it normally if needed PainterofCrap posted:What do caravaners prefer? Wagons 
Grakkus fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Feb 19, 2021 |
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Feb 19, 2021 22:56
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Grakkus posted:What's the tow capacity on one of those and how usable has he found it? That reminded me.....not sure what tow capacity you need by my old neighbor is still towing a landscape trailer with a mower and/or totally loaded up with woord on a regular basis with his firet generation Hyunday Santa Fe with the 6 cylinder. Not good on fuel, but the thing tows great. First gen would put it between 2000 and 05? 06? Not sure if you got them there.
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Feb 19, 2021 23:02
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For what it's worth, my 2000 Toyota Sienna is poo poo at towing because it has a very soft rear suspension. Speaking of which, I think I'm going to give up on installing these rear suspension airbags. I drilled through the unibody frame rail, but there's a ton of bulkheads and poo poo inside it, so I can't run an air hose through it. The other possible hose routing is to keep drilling up, into the interior. I tried removing the interior panels (pull hard, they said), but that just broke a ton of 20 year old plastic clips, and the panel still really doesn't want to come out. So gently caress it. I'll see how this thing works with just new springs. That alone lifted the rear 1.5", which is what I was hoping from the airbags. Of course I'd like to be greedy and get another 1.5" on top of that with the bags, but I'm not quite motivated enough to start tearing up the interior.
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Feb 20, 2021 00:21
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And why the hell are KYB shocks for the Toyota Sienna threaded 3/8-24, not metric? WTF.
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Feb 20, 2021 00:50
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ryanrs posted:And why the hell are KYB shocks for the Toyota Sienna threaded 3/8-24, not metric? WTF. I just learned something today. It went like this: well that's odd hmm I bet they fit like an 80s Chrysler or something too *Pulls up rockauto* Umm   The answer is that when the sienna was released in 1998, kyb determined that a shock absorber they already made for many vehicles up to 43 years older would fit in the right place, not have any of its specs exceeded, and provide acceptable damping compared to OEM. And it happens to have imperial threads because, well, 1955...
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Feb 20, 2021 02:09
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So you're saying my 2000 Sienna is a classic?
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Feb 20, 2021 02:41
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I'm looking for a fun car to gently caress around with on a weekend trip. 2014 Corvette Stringray (manual) is an option. Another option is a Tesla P85D. Looking for input. Leaning on vette because manual is an endangered species.
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Feb 20, 2021 03:05
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ryanrs posted:So you're saying my 2000 Sienna is a classic? Well, part of it is. Now.
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Feb 20, 2021 03:21
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ryanrs posted:So you're saying my 2000 Sienna is a classic? I mean in 4 years most states will let you put antique plates on it. Christ I feel old now. The oldest OBD2 cars in existence are legally antiques this year.
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Feb 20, 2021 04:34
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kastein posted:I mean in 4 years most states will let you put antique plates on it. I've seen historic plates on fourth gen Camaros, a car I remember being excited about as a kid (even before my dad ended up buying one). It made me realize I'm basically dead already.
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Feb 20, 2021 05:14
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TheReverend posted:I'm looking for a fun car to gently caress around with on a weekend trip. Vette.
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Feb 20, 2021 05:38
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TheReverend posted:I'm looking for a fun car to gently caress around with on a weekend trip. I doubt anyone here is gonna pick a Tesla over a Vette.
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Feb 20, 2021 06:29
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Lol okay thanks goons. This is why I check.
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Feb 20, 2021 06:49
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I would go for the Tesla...
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Feb 20, 2021 07:01
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Grakkus posted:What's the tow capacity on one of those and how usable has he found it? I think he kind of likes it. It tows the car trailer like a champ from what he says (I'm not allowed to try firsthand since I don't have the BE heavy trailer licence) and seems perfectly useable as a daily if you don't mind driving a big and thirsty SUV.
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Feb 20, 2021 09:13
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Going to do first oil change on the 06 Yaris I bought a few months ago. Kms are reasonably high on the old girl (315k) and not sure what the PO was running. What's a good safe bet for oil? We are moving into winter here but I don't think it gets cold enough to really matter.
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Feb 21, 2021 02:15
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Going to do first oil change on the 06 Yaris I bought a few months ago. Kms are reasonably high on the old girl (315k) and not sure what the PO was running. What's a good safe bet for oil? 5W-30 seems like the recommended weight. At 315k, it's probably not worth a premium brand. Regular cheapo petroleum-based stuff will probably be fine.
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Feb 21, 2021 02:27
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Going to do first oil change on the 06 Yaris I bought a few months ago. Kms are reasonably high on the old girl (315k) and not sure what the PO was running. What's a good safe bet for oil? I have an 07 yaris and just put in the cheapest 5w20 I can find. 5w30 works too but I believe toyota specifies 20 now for the 1nzfe.
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Feb 21, 2021 06:39
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2009 Mercury Milan 4-cyl auto. Car sat for almost two weeks, battery got too low to start. Pulled the battery and charged it overnight. Reinstalled it today. Car starts but doesn't accept any accelerator input, idles rough (below 1k RPM). Check engine light and wrench light in bottom left of dash which indicates throttle/trans issue according to manual. This seems to be a common thing with these cars if you disconnect the battery. Tried a number of things i found online. Set key to just before start for 30 seconds, to attempt throttle body ecu reset. I let the car idle until it got to operating temp, shut it down and restarted, same thing, no acceleration. Checked fuses, none are damaged. I have a second vehicle so I'm not totally boned but I would like both cars to run and drive.
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Feb 22, 2021 01:44
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If the throttle body signal got porked, you may have to spirit it off to a Ford dealer, which will hook it up to the machine that goes ping! and relieve you of $300-$500. Fixed it in about 15-minutes.
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Feb 22, 2021 02:42
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You could try grabbing a Bluetooth obd2 reader and forscan on a laptop to see if it has a diagnostic/reset. $10 gamble https://forscan.org/home.html
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Feb 22, 2021 03:27
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Offroad Minivan Update Look at this youtube motherfucker pull a driveshaft with two hits of a slide hammer. My vehicle was slightly harder. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kdmsBs6nl4&t=145s e: lol video doesn't embed. Go to 2:25 to see what I'm talking about. The front passenger drive shaft is attached to the car in two places. There's that black engine mount you can see in the video that has a bearing inside. This bearing isn't pressed in, but can get stuck anyway because of corrosion. And the end of the drive shaft has some ring/detent inside the transmission. So you have to give it a good yank to pull it out. So first I went to O'Reilly to rent a slide hammer. None of the slide hammer attachments looked like the thing in the video. Fortunately the guy behind me in line was listening in and piped up to say that I'd never pull the axle with a slide hammer. Instead I'd need to "really whale on it," he said. This was good advice. So back under my car, I commenced whaling with a big prybar and a 4lbs hammer. I couldn't get a good power swing while laying on my back and eventually gave up. Instead, I discovered I could pretty easily unbolt the whole engine mount and remove it and the drive shaft as one unit. But first I'd need to pop the end of the shaft out of the transmission. Fortunately this detent thing is bathed in oil/atf/slippery poo poo, so there would be no corrosion to fight against. And yet, some pretty forceful yanking did nothing. Hammering on poo poo also did nothing. So I decided to drop the exhaust to get better access. This went smoothly except for one stud that snapped. Ugh. In the end I rigged up a 5 ft piece of black pipe, held up and guided by big zip ties, and butted the end against that engine mount (now unbolted from the engine and subframe). Then I went around to the other side of the car and smacked the end of the pipe with my 10 lbs sledge. It took a half dozen hard hits with the sledge to pop out the shaft. WTF. I don't know if those sledgehammer hits were great for the drive shaft bearing, so maybe I'll just replace the whole shaft/bearing/2xCV joints assembly. It's only $140 at the Toyota dealer. Net result: traded a stuck drive shaft for a snapped exhaust bolt. I guess that's progress? Work completed: rear shocks, springs. Work abandoned: rear airbags. Might do them later, but they are not critical and I have to disassemble some interior poo poo to route the air lines so they won't get ripped out when offroad. Work to do: install new shaft, replace engine mounts, replace front struts. Work for someone else to do: weld up a recovery point to my front subframe. I've been using the factory tie-down points, but they get smashed on rocks all the loving time and are not long for this world. At this point I'm still feeling like I made the right choice to do this myself instead of paying way too much for a professional to fix my pos van. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 08:24 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 06:49
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Your Sienna is either going to die an ignoble death or accomplish a winter summit of K2. I hope you never need them but the recovery points are a solid piece of forward thinking. In case you haven't got that far do you have recovery gear? A snatch strap is good if you have someone else to help (and can be hella dangerous if used wrong) or a static strap if you have some sort of winch type thing. I recently found out about cable pullers and think I might get one, no idea how effective they are.
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Feb 22, 2021 07:09
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Powershift posted:You could try grabbing a Bluetooth obd2 reader and forscan on a laptop to see if it has a diagnostic/reset. $10 gamble OBD2 adapter ordered, should arrive Tuesday. Will give it a whirl on Wednesday when I have time.
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Feb 22, 2021 07:21
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It's just a fwd minivan. I have to winch it on most of my trips. Hell, sometimes I get it stuck on purpose just for practice. My most important rule is no kinetic recoveries. My gear isn't rated for those kind of loads, the tie down points (probably) can't take it, and besides, I always offroad solo, so there is never another vehicle. And it's not like I'm getting stuck in waist-deep mud or anything. All my recoveries are solo, by hand winch. I do not own an electric winch. Instead I have a Wyeth-Scott Power Puller, 300+ ft of 5/16" amsteel blue, and 50 lbs of pulleys, shackles, rings, carabiners (big steel ones, not rec climbing gear), straps, etc. If I needed to, I could winch my van straight up a vertical cliff. It would take forever and really suck, but mechanically I could do it. I feel like the manual winch is more flexible than a bumper-mounted electric winch, because it's easy to pull from any angle. One time I winched the rear end sideways to spin around in place like a tank, heh. But for most recoveries, I clip the Wyeth-Scott to an appropriate point on the van, and the other end to a tree, and start winching. You sit on the ground and do a rowing motion using your whole upper body. With no pulleys, the van will move about an inch per stroke. I've never needed a pulley, and that's good because 1/2" per stroke would really suck. If there are no trees, I have some circus tent stakes (4 ft long, 3/4" thick steel rods with an auger point), and a few other tricks. But I've never had to use them. I'm not sure how well it'd work. The one time I got stuck in sand, I escaped with some shoveling and recovery boards. Do not buy a cheap $50 cable puller off amazon. I did, and it broke the first time I needed it. Spend the $400 on the Wyeth-Scott if you are going to rely on it for traveling solo in the wilderness. I have several thousand dollars invested in recovery gear. But I am very confident that I can get my van unstuck anywhere, anytime. e: I do have a dynamic/stretchy 30 ft strap that I can preload with my hand winch, then get in the van and drive. It provides a constant pull for a foot or so, which can help the van get out of a ditch. But in general I avoid storing energy in my rigging. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 07:31
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BTW, gently caress steel cable and gently caress nylon ropes. They are way too heavy. I had a 100 ft 3/4" arborist bull rope static line for a while, but retired it due to weight. Amsteel blue all the way. I use 5/16".
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Feb 22, 2021 07:48
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I'm looking at replacing the gasket downstream of the catalytic converter, where it attaches to the rest of the exhaust pipe, on my 4.3L S10. I'm ok with doing a semi--bodge job as I don't fancy ordering new studs from the US right now. Anyone know what size bolt fits through the 3 holes? My internet research sys it could be M10's. Stainless bolts fine in that case? At least until I decide to order a bit load of stuff from the US next time.
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Feb 22, 2021 16:31
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Wow, looking at Sienna problems I see a number of people complaining about hydrolocking in less than a foot of water. I'm not sure if they are lying, bad at judging depth, or if such a thing is actually possible. I haven't pulled my airbox to measure it, but it seems fairly high off the ground. And I'm pretty sure I've crossed 8-12" of water before. Maybe the Sienna needs a snorkel?
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Feb 22, 2021 21:16
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 Broken exhaust stud, with 3/8" extension for scale. It twisted off when I tried to turn the nut with a wrench. I've squirted it with a bit of penetrating oil. What is the best way to proceed?
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Feb 22, 2021 22:19
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If you don't have a welder, put a nut on there and then put another nut on there and jam 'em together real good, then fit a deep socket over that. If you do have a welder, weld a nut to the end of the stud.
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Feb 22, 2021 22:25
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