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So dudes. If a car has been lying idle for say 4 months (2001 Ford Falcon AU2) and you turn it on, but nothing happens. Seems like the battery is low. So you try and jump start it from a good car ... nada, zip, zero, hapana. Remove battery and try and charge on 240v 12v charger. Does not even register that there is a circuit. Is the battery hosed¿
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Dec 29, 2015 06:20
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General_Failure posted:Lada stuff. Does the engagement point move if you pump the clutch pedal rapidly before trying to move off for the first time? The resistance you're feeling might be you hitting the limit of sensible angles between the pedal, linkage and MC when you adjust it right out because it presumably doesn't have an eccentric adjuster to make up for this because russia. Blow posted:Is the battery hosed¿ Yep. You might be able to save it with an old fashioned 'dumb' charger; in my experience, intelligent chargers often write off batteries that are salvageable and you have to perk them up the hard way first before hooking them up. Another strategy is to use jumper leads and hook the bad battery up to the charger in parallel (!!!) with the charger and it treats it like a normal battery with huge CCA. After it reaches near to full charge, take away the good battery and let it finish by itself. All of these are a crapshoot based on the age and usage of the battery prior to this point; if it's already several years old then it's almost guaranteed to be hosed.
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Dec 29, 2015 06:33
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Slavvy posted:Does the engagement point move if you pump the clutch pedal rapidly before trying to move off for the first time? The resistance you're feeling might be you hitting the limit of sensible angles between the pedal, linkage and MC when you adjust it right out because it presumably doesn't have an eccentric adjuster to make up for this because russia. OK Nice custom tile btw  The charger is a dumb one. Old school as it were. I can make sparks of the + & -. Hey at least I didn't have to google Cold Charging Amps. Parallel ... hmmm. Don't want to gently caress the other good car. What if was to take a removed fully charged battery (truck battery) charge it on the 12v dumb charger, then like kinda zap the dead battery like frankenstein¿
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Dec 29, 2015 07:10
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Even if you can get that battery to hold a charge, the plates are pretty damaged at this point. Just get a new battery. CCA is Cold Cranking Amps, btw.
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Dec 29, 2015 07:32
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Blow posted:The charger is a dumb one. Old school as it were. I can make sparks of the + & -. Please don't do any of that. Take your good battery if it has enough CCA's, put it in hosed car. If it doesn't make any kind of attempt, troubleshoot from there. Watch the voltage to make sure it's not loving your good battery in the process.
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Dec 29, 2015 07:33
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EightBit posted:Even if you can get that battery to hold a charge, the plates are pretty damaged at this point. Just get a new battery. lol owned with the CCA. I was close. Yeah. gently caress it. I need to just get a new loving battery. Thank you everyone for your help. <3
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Dec 29, 2015 07:51
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Blow posted:If a car has been lying idle for say 4 months (2001 Ford Falcon AU2) and you turn it on, but nothing happens. Beyond what others have said, if you plan to park it that long again, it would be a good idea to hook up a battery tender, or at least disconnect the battery. The ECU and stereo will both pull a small amount of power to maintain memory, and over time that'll run the battery down. I can't say one way or the other if 4 months is long enough to do that, as the longest I've ever parked a car was about 2 months, but car batteries don't take nicely to being run down until they're flat.
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Dec 29, 2015 09:48
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Slavvy posted:Does the engagement point move if you pump the clutch pedal rapidly before trying to move off for the first time? quote:The resistance you're feeling might be you hitting the limit of sensible angles between the pedal, linkage and MC when you adjust it right out because it presumably doesn't have an eccentric adjuster to make up for this because russia. Duhhhh... *googles frantically* Still not quite sure what you mean. The only adjustment on the MC side of things is the top stop for the clutch pedal. Can't say I've ever seen much more than that on anything. Blow posted:So dudes. You answered your own question unknowingly. Aussie fords love to turbofuck their battery if they aren't started and ran with extreme regularity. To this day I have no idea why.
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Dec 29, 2015 12:37
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Wally Joyner posted:Out of curiosity; what year & model car are you driving now? What is going wrong with it besides the brakes? I just saw your post. I forgot to check this thread after not getting any replies for a while. My car is a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. In addition to the brakes, the (shocks/struts? not sure what the suspension is on this car) are completely worthless. It's to the point where driving is a little frightening, because I feel like I'm losing control of the car when I drive over a bubblegum wrapper in the road. Actual bumps are a nightmare. It's been that way for a while, so tie rods/control arms/whatever probably need to be at least looked at. The A/C fan poo poo the bed when I hit a big flood puddle during a rain storm. I'd like to have a general inspection, too: belts, fluids, etc. The bare minimum I feel I need is at least the front brakes and rotors replaced, and a thorough inspection to make sure there are no obvious time bombs waiting to go off on a 2,000+ mile road trip. I would really, really, really, really, really, really prefer to also have the suspension worked on, since driving the car as-is is miserable. The A/C fan is important, but I can just wear gloves or something to make it through the winter. Edit: Time is also a factor. I need to be in Detroit as soon as possible. Centripetal Horse fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 22:42
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Hi AI, My name is Duckman, and I am terrible with cars. I just had a car maintenance round where I thought I was ok with everything, then it ended up being more than I expected. At this point I doubt it will fix anything, but i'll have peace of mind either way if someone can clarify if either I was ripped off or it just was a lot of work. For reference: i have a Honda Civic 2012 with 71K miles on it. I have had standard maintenance on it, but probably due for some work. List of what was done and price (including labor): Wiper blades: $13.99 * 2 State Emissions Inspection (PA): $44.15 State Emissions Inspection: $25 Air Filter: $39.99 Brake Fluid Change: $59.99 Fuel System Cleaning: $69.99 Serpentine Belt: $99 Oil Change: $50 Battery replaced: $146.49 Balance 4 tires: $50 Rotation: $0 Replace front brake pads and rotors: $366.29 They gave me a discount off the total of $81.69 for doing everything. Total: $1,091.67 Supposedly the brake pads have a lifetime warranty, and the battery has a warranty for x years. I'm sure i pay more than someone doing these things on their own, and I'm fine with that. It just added up quicker than I thought it would. Should I go back to this place or just find someone else next time? Duckman2008 fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Dec 30, 2015 |
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Dec 30, 2015 00:00
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The more I look at it, the more it seems like they just charge high - not excessive, but high - prices across the board. The serpentine belt might not have actually been necessary, the fuel service was definitely not necessary, and at $60 I wonder if they really flushed your brakes or if they just sucked out / refilled the reservoir. The battery price seems pretty steep. $50 for an oil change is pretty damned pricey. The brakes seem quite expensive but that's a job that a lot of shops love to print money off of, so that's probably about what you'd be charged anywhere. While you may be 'fine with paying someone to do it', the wiper blades, air filter, and battery replacement are all seriously easy repairs, and your parts costs on those would've been 1/2 to 1/4 of what you paid to have them done.
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Dec 30, 2015 00:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:The more I look at it, the more it seems like they just charge high - not excessive, but high - prices across the board. The serpentine belt might not have actually been necessary, the fuel service was definitely not necessary, and at $60 I wonder if they really flushed your brakes or if they just sucked out / refilled the reservoir. The battery price seems pretty steep. $50 for an oil change is pretty damned pricey. So I'll definitely find another place then for the future. It was synthetic oil if that makes difference at all? I'll have to consider personal maintenance for the future, I see what you're saying on prices. I'm just the opposite of a hands on person.
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Dec 30, 2015 00:41
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2014 Honda Civic LX, trying to replace a cracked side view mirror. I need to replace the entire mirror and the glass. I found the parts online for about $100 cheaper than what the dealer quoted me, and they are genuine parts. I plan to order the parts and take it to a local mechanic to fix rather than the dealership. I know some mechanics will not accept parts you supply yourself, or at least will not guarantee the repair, but since these are genuine parts, will it matter? I'm also wondering if they'll markup the labor to make up for the lost profit to the point where I might as well have just ordered the parts through them. The dealer quoted me about $250 for the repair, which I know is high, but what's a reasonable amount for that kind of work? Replacing the mirror apparently involves removing the entire door panel.
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Dec 30, 2015 00:46
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Duckman2008 posted:It was synthetic oil if that makes difference at all? It helps, but it's still steep. Four quarts of oil, the shop should at worst be paying what you'd get that at Walmart for (about $20) and $5 for a filter. Then there's labor / profit on top of it but let's face it, an oil change doesn't exactly require years of training.
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Dec 30, 2015 01:11
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Duckman2008 posted:
Please tell me you at least told them your car was shaking and that's why you got a random re-balancing.
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Dec 30, 2015 01:11
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Ozmiander posted:Please tell me you at least told them your car was shaking and that's why you got a random re-balancing. No, I literally have not had any issues with the car, it was just time for oil change and emissions test. The more I think about it, the more it's really my fault. I just ended up going with the recommendation, the only thing I price checked were the brake pads, and didn't really question or say no to anything. I went into it not having any reference of when I last had any maintenance done. Painful lesson learned. I spent the night looking through old receipts and logging old oil changes and maintainence into an app, and the best I can do is be better prepared next time.
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Dec 30, 2015 01:31
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Duckman2008 posted:I'll have to consider personal maintenance for the future, I see what you're saying on prices. I'm just the opposite of a hands on person. Because not only will you save money, but you can be sure that the work was done properly and that quality parts/fluids were used.
melon cat fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Dec 30, 2015 |
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Dec 30, 2015 01:40
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When a shop gives you a giant list of recommendations - that's just how they make the money. Recommendations are not requirements - people take those recommendations so strongly sometimes. A 2012 Civic takes 0W-20 oil. It's VERY uncommon to find it in non-synthetic. It's possible but rare as all hell. Dont' feel bad about getting whacked for synthetic oil on a Honda - it's unavoidable. DO follow the oil life on the dash though - it tracks if for you. 3,000 miles on a Honda is too soon - wait till that oil life gets down to 15%. On many Hondas this takes 5,000 or even 7,000 miles. If you're bringing a car in for state inspection - it's even easier. All you really HAVE to get done is the stuff needed to pass inspection. If you wanna be a real dick, and this works very well - ask to get the old parts back. In PA it's your right to ask for this under the inspection code. You can measure them yourself. You might find that your brakes magically weren't worn out at all, and since they are giving the old parts to you - you'll see strange things happen. Fuel system cleanings are a huge money maker for a shop. You can do this yourself by getting a bottle of Techron for $10 and putting it in your fuel tank every 5,000 miles. Techron is actually better than the cleaning process they use because techron leaves a chemically bonded coating behind that acts like teflon so deposits don't stick. Brake fluid change? Yeah - this one is actually good. People don't do this enough. Many manufacturers recommend every two years. Yes, this is a massive money maker for the shop too - but so is replacing all your calipers and brake hoses if your brake fluid gets old and eats the poo poo out of everything.
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Dec 30, 2015 02:58
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Jake Snake posted:2014 Honda Civic LX, trying to replace a cracked side view mirror. I need to replace the entire mirror and the glass. I found the parts online for about $100 cheaper than what the dealer quoted me, and they are genuine parts. I plan to order the parts and take it to a local mechanic to fix rather than the dealership. If the part breaks - they will not take care of it for you. You'll have to pay to get the part removed, take the part back, do the legwork to return it yourself, and then pay the mechanic to install it again. On the other hand - if the mechanic fucks the part up installing it - that's on them. A lot of shops won't do this because of the can of worms it opens.
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Dec 30, 2015 03:01
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Jake Snake posted:2014 Honda Civic LX, trying to replace a cracked side view mirror. I need to replace the entire mirror and the glass. I found the parts online for about $100 cheaper than what the dealer quoted me, and they are genuine parts. I plan to order the parts and take it to a local mechanic to fix rather than the dealership. Why not just ask your local mechanic to quote you the repair with oem parts?
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Dec 30, 2015 06:24
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General_Failure posted:No. Or at least it never seems to. I've tried pumping the everloving out of it. That time earlier this year when I got sick and it's registration ran out it sat for a while. When I tried using the clutch the first time it was whacked. Worked fine after a pump and has been fine since. that's why I still suspected air trapped somewhere.  Update.I sanded the contact points. The 12v chinese battery charger went "Dnnnnnnnnnnnnngggggggggggg". So I was like "Cool. Pulled 7.5 on the scale (amps?). And then after many hours it was like just under 2. Put battery back into car. Cranked it. Noisy. I think it needed to get the oil moving. Now it seems to have a rather persistent tappet noise. So yeah. That's my story.
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Dec 30, 2015 07:04
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0toShifty posted:A 2012 Civic takes 0W-20 oil. It's VERY uncommon to find it in non-synthetic. It's possible but rare as all hell. Dont' feel bad about getting whacked for synthetic oil on a Honda - it's unavoidable. DO follow the oil life on the dash though - it tracks if for you. 3,000 miles on a Honda is too soon - wait till that oil life gets down to 15%. On many Hondas this takes 5,000 or even 7,000 miles. Yup, mine is closer to 8000-9000 miles per change. I do a lot of highway driving so this ends up every five or six months. And the CR-V is one of the easiest-to-maintain vehicles I've ever owned. Honda went out of their way to make routine stuff really easy to access. H110Hawk posted:Why not just ask your local mechanic to quote you the repair with oem parts? It's worth noting that at least in some cases, the reason the part costs more with the mechanic is because of the service it comes with to them. I seem to recall from DrPain's thread that in a lot of cases his cost was a good bit higher than Rockauto, but that came with someone running the part to his shop that day, and dealing with any warranty concerns for him.
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Dec 30, 2015 07:47
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0toShifty posted:If the part breaks - they will not take care of it for you. You'll have to pay to get the part removed, take the part back, do the legwork to return it yourself, and then pay the mechanic to install it again. On the other hand - if the mechanic fucks the part up installing it - that's on them. A lot of shops won't do this because of the can of worms it opens. Thanks, that's what I was worried about mainly. H110Hawk posted:Why not just ask your local mechanic to quote you the repair with oem parts? All the mechanics I called were closed.  I was just looking at prices online after visiting the dealer and figured I probably wouldn't save as much if I ordered through a mechanic. Thought I should check before buying anything. I will be going to a mechanic either tomorrow or after New Years though.
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Dec 30, 2015 08:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's worth noting that at least in some cases, the reason the part costs more with the mechanic is because of the service it comes with to them. I seem to recall from DrPain's thread that in a lot of cases his cost was a good bit higher than Rockauto, but that came with someone running the part to his shop that day, and dealing with any warranty concerns for him. Friend of mine owns a shop, and he's been upfront about his parts costs and markup when I have him do work - his parts markup is usually around 10-20%, which I think is more than fair. Definitely a bit more expensive, but like you said, he can have common stuff delivered in an hour, and he still pays a little less than I would if I walked into a parts store (even though most of his stuff comes from O'Reilly's or Napa). Since he specializes in Honda and Toyota stuff, he keeps common stuff for them on hand (filters, hoses, belts, OEM fluids, etc), and of course orders oil by the drum. Also keeps the common batteries for them on hand. I did introduce him to Rockauto, he was pretty shocked at their prices. AFAIK he uses them for personal projects now, along with stuff that doesn't need to be done in a hurry.
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Dec 30, 2015 08:37
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Question about tires. I just replaced my tires with non-oem tires. Do I still inflate the tire to what is listed on my door panel sticker or do I go by the recommendation directly on the tire rubber? Also, I think the TPMS might be messed up, any idea if you would fail a safety check in WA state if the light is on? and what should my spare tire PSI be at. I didn't get a chance to check but would it be listed on the tire rubber as well? It's a 2007 Scion TC if that matters.
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Dec 30, 2015 17:58
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The recommendation on the rubber isn't a recommendation, it's the maximum safe pressure. Go with the one on the door jamb as long as the tires are the same size (for example 225/75R15 on a jeep cherokee.) Very common misconception you had there - wouldn't believe how many people are rolling around with their civic's tires at 50psi instead of 32 because the tire said it could handle it. It might improve your mileage a small amount (not very much) but it significantly reduces traction, ride quality, and in some cases tread wear life.
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Dec 30, 2015 18:30
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lol internet. posted:Question about tires. I just replaced my tires with non-oem tires. Whomever replaced your tires should have handled (or offered to handle) the TPMS situation for you. If the light wasn't on before you got the tires changed, take it back and talk to them. TPMS "shouldn't" fail a safety inspection if your tires are inflated correctly, but I don't know the specifics of your state. If you don't have a pressure gauge, you can get them pretty cheaply off Amazon. I have this one, but who knows which crappy manufacturer made it this year: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YC9FTQ . Tested accurate with my mechanics fancy one.
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Dec 30, 2015 18:57
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I have a tire pressure gauge and I did inflate them to spec on the side panel sticker but the light does't seem to turn off. (It wast on even before I got the tires replaced.. because at that point I assumed the tires were junk)
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Dec 30, 2015 19:27
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lol internet. posted:I have a tire pressure gauge and I did inflate them to spec on the side panel sticker but the light does't seem to turn off. (It wast on even before I got the tires replaced.. because at that point I assumed the tires were junk) Lookup the reset procedure. The TPMS may simply need to be recalibrated.
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Dec 30, 2015 19:31
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Long shot but if the spare's a full-size. it could have a sensor too. If so the spare should be filled to the same pressure as the others (if pressures are different front/rear use the higher of the two). If it's a donut it probably won't have a sensor, and usually you do wanna fill those to the max sidewall pressure; most of them will have a sticker saying as much..
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Dec 30, 2015 19:44
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lol internet. posted:Question about tires. I just replaced my tires with non-oem tires. You have a button you need to press, because your TPMS works a bit different than most others. quote:Scion tC (2006 - 2012) TPMS Reset Procedure
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Dec 30, 2015 22:10
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So when you have a non-standard tire size that's not listed on the thing in the fuel cap what do you inflate your tires to?
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Dec 30, 2015 23:07
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spankmeister posted:So when you have a non-standard tire size that's not listed on the thing in the fuel cap what do you inflate your tires to? You'll have to do some experimentation. Inflate the tires to the recommended pressure and mark the tread with chalk to see if the tire is making good contact with the road while it rolls. Feel for tires slipping or wallowing around, etc.
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Dec 30, 2015 23:23
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Yep. In my case, running 285/75R16s on a truck that came with 225/75R15s required that I run 25psi instead of 32-35psi for even tire wear and good handling. In general, increasing tire rolling diameter or section width will require less pressure, while decreasing rolling diameter or width will require more. You need to experiment though to find the ideal pressure for a given vehicle weight and tire diameter+section width.
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Dec 30, 2015 23:35
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Picked up an 04 Accord last month, and just discovered that the windshield washer fluid isn't working quite right. I do get fluid, but it arcs out about 2" or so and doesn't hit the windshield. The stream looks almost exactly like what you'd see from a lower powered drinking fountain. I tried cleaning the nozzles with a straightened out staple, but that made no difference. I didn't see any obvious kinks in the line either. Does this sound like it could be the pump?
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Dec 30, 2015 23:41
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I have an auto insurance question, didn't see a thread for that here or BFC so I figure I'll just ask. I have a 2013 Smart Fortwo Electric Drive (i.e. street-legal go-cart), in MA. Some rear end in a top hat coming out of a side street doesn't see my wind-up car and hits into the side of me. I have a dashcam that gets the whole thing. No injuries, but he hit hard enough to scrape across four of my body panels and dent in the steel safety frame that goes around my car. I have USAA insurance with no collision insurance, so they send me to the other driver's company (Liberty Mutual) to deal with everything. Liberty sees the dashcam, agrees their guy is 100% at fault, and sends me to their own appraiser who estimates $900 to buff everything out and pop the dents. Long story short, how do I shake these jerks down for more money? I'm mostly pissed because this thing was mint-condition before the side was banged up, so I want either a check for all the resale value that cost me, or to actually have things replaced back to mint. A little extra for all the trouble seems fair too. I'd imagine their appraiser is acting only in their interests so I have to assume he's low-balling the estimate and my gut says that's low too.
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Dec 31, 2015 02:13
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Zero VGS posted:steel safety frame I feel like this is your angle. poo poo, compromising this might total the car.
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Dec 31, 2015 03:00
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Get an estimate from a MB-recommended body shop, and the term you are looking for is "diminished value".
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Dec 31, 2015 03:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Get an estimate from a MB-recommended body shop, and the term you are looking for is "diminished value". Ayyy okay thanks. CharlieWhiskey posted:I feel like this is your angle. poo poo, compromising this might total the car. Yeah, I mean the thing has an atom-bomb of lithium ion batteries strapped to the underside and it's not exactly a tank in the first place so a buckled frame gives me pause even if it's minor.
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Dec 31, 2015 03:17
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Dead battery update. Started the car. Ford Falcon 2001 4.0 inline 6. Sounded like a single tappet making a bit of noise. Let the car warm up a bit on idle, after a while I gave it some accelerator (gas). Sounds fine now. All cool for a car that hasn't been started in 4 months.
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Dec 31, 2015 08:45
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