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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I actually tried that exact line. His answer was "then you should know how important bulb grease is!"

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everdave
Nov 14, 2005

Josh Lyman posted:

You should've just said you have a masters degree in electrical engineering.

Say it with conviction and he'll believe you.

I'm old school but I use the grease on all my cars...until this new Prius I just got with LED everything. Pretty much seems a sharp contrast and if anything ever gets replaced I won't use it on this. My 2000 decade fords yeah I still use

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



Anyone have an opinion on these things? https://www.amazon.com/Xenon-Headli...words=Headlight


It's a HID Xenon Headlight Conversion Kit by Kensun. Are you a jackass if you use these headlights, or is that something else? I'd be installing it in an 08 Cayman.

e:I am pretty sure this is my current headlight enclosure, if that matters: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-987...KxYl5UM&vxp=mtr

The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Mar 13, 2017

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008

Три полоски,
три по три полоски

The Wonder Weapon posted:

Anyone have an opinion on these things? https://www.amazon.com/Xenon-Headli...words=Headlight


It's a HID Xenon Headlight Conversion Kit by Kensun. Are you a jackass if you use these headlights, or is that something else? I'd be installing it in an 08 Cayman.

e:I am pretty sure this is my current headlight enclosure, if that matters: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-987...KxYl5UM&vxp=mtr

h11bs list for 34-54 bucks on NAPA a piece. Im not sure how the whole conversion kit is 30 bucks.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yes, you'd be a jackass for installing that kit. The problem is that the actual pattern for light output from a HID arc light is very different than the pattern for a filament bulb, and the reflectors / projectors need to be designed for it. Otherwise you have light going every which way when you put them in. You as a driver don't see much net difference, but oncoming traffic now gets to deal with you blinding them.

The only proper way is to swap housings / projectors with actual HID parts.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?
Cheap HID kits also have this fun quirk about how they melt wiring and start fires. There's a reason the real thing costs hundreds to thousands of dollars. And there's a reason that one is $40.

Oh, and there's no way they meet DOT standards, so if you live in an inspection locale you're boned on that, too.

Michael Scott
Jan 3, 2010

by zen death robot
Do inspections in bumfuck wherever care about which headlights you bought off ebay?

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?
Obviously it depends on your area, and probably what shop you go to, but yeah they absolutely can. It's a big problem for Jeep people, because Jeep headlights are garbage.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008

Три полоски,
три по три полоски
I love when when people come in for replacement bulbs and I tell them that fancy option they got at the dealership is going to cost them 230 dollars per bulb. People loose their poo poo.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



Gotcha. I'll stick with the Philips CrystalVision bulbs then. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1OL44G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Adiabatic
Nov 18, 2007

What have you assholes done now?

AI thanks you

Owl Inspector
Sep 14, 2011

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

For the time being, to get it to start, put the key in, turn it to run (but do not try to start the car - just turn it to the position where the dash lights, windows, etc all come on), and leave it for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, it should start. You can try it after 10, but if it doesn't try to crank, you'll have to turn the key off, then turn it back on, and wait a full 30 minutes.

After that, next time you drive it, you'll probably have to let it sit like that (key on, without attempting to start) for 10 minutes. I believe the daytime running lights come on anytime the ignition is on unless you have the parking brake set as well, so you'll want to set the parking brake to keep from running down the battery. If that doesn't turn off the daytime running lights (which are just the headlights on your car, if I remember right), you'll probably want to make sure your battery is good and charged, or maybe even have a booster pack or another battery + jumper cables handy to keep it from running down.

It's a very common issue on most late 90s-mid 00s GMs. There's a bypass you can do (I believe the easiest version is just cutting a wire), or you can just replace the ignition switch. The bypass will require doing the 30 minute re-learn anytime the battery is disconnected, and involves cutting some wires (also leaves you with a "service vehicle soon" message). If you do replace the ignition switch, you'll have to do the 30 minute re-learn as well (disconnect the battery while replacing the switch, btw), but that should be the only time you have to do it.

The version of Passlock your car uses doesn't use a chip of any kind in the key. Instead, it has 2 ignition switches. The very tip of the key turns the second ignition switch way at the back. GM also runs only 5 volts through both switches instead of the more traditional 12 volts; when the switch gets gunked up over the years, that little 5 volts can't arc through the dirt and grease and make contact anymore.

Thanks, really helpful info. For some reason, after I posted about it the problem fixed itself, but I'll keep this in mind if/when it comes up again.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Sorry to say this, but it's going to happen again at some point, and then again, and again, in increasing frequency, until the ignition switch is replaced. Generally it'll make itself most obvious when it's cold out.

Glad it's working for now though. The switch replacement is something you can do yourself if you're reasonably handy. I'd probably just ignore it until it starts happening more often myself, but I'm lazy like that.


Phillips Xtreme Vision are a little bit brighter, and without the goofy blue tint. Downside is they don't last as long as a regular bulb - I usually get a year, sometimes 2, out of them. But they're noticeably brighter than your typical bulb.

Owl Inspector
Sep 14, 2011

Yeah, I am looking to buy a car before the end of summer, so I'm hoping I can trade this car in before it gets bad again and forces me to go through the hassle. I'm incredibly lazy and usually need to be forced. I'm not expecting the car to be worth much now that this has come up and another electrical problem with the turn signal has re-emerged after allegedly getting fixed--can't say I've been thrilled with this car's reliability.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

Sorry to say this, but it's going to happen again at some point, and then again, and again, in increasing frequency, until the ignition switch is replaced. Generally it'll make itself most obvious when it's cold out.

Glad it's working for now though. The switch replacement is something you can do yourself if you're reasonably handy. I'd probably just ignore it until it starts happening more often myself, but I'm lazy like that.


Phillips Xtreme Vision are a little bit brighter, and without the goofy blue tint. Downside is they don't last as long as a regular bulb - I usually get a year, sometimes 2, out of them. But they're noticeably brighter than your typical bulb.


This. Blue tinted bulbs may look brighter, but it's a trick because they're just whiter. They actually throw less light...because they're tinted.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Digirat posted:

Yeah, I am looking to buy a car before the end of summer, so I'm hoping I can trade this car in before it gets bad again and forces me to go through the hassle. I'm incredibly lazy and usually need to be forced. I'm not expecting the car to be worth much now that this has come up and another electrical problem with the turn signal has re-emerged after allegedly getting fixed--can't say I've been thrilled with this car's reliability.

To be fair, that was not a good year for Impalas (or really, many GM products in general, but Impalas in particular were pretty terrible for that generation).

The current generation is a hell of a nice car, and I know there's a ton of previous generation Impalas still on the road. I rarely ever see the 8th gen (00-05) in the wild; when I do, they're pretty much held together by duct tape and bailing wire.

What's the turn signal issue?

PabloBOOM
Mar 10, 2004
Hunchback of DOOM

Godholio posted:

This. Blue tinted bulbs may look brighter, but it's a trick because they're just whiter. They actually throw less light...because they're tinted.

Some of us can't help having a lingering adolescent toy when we're stuck with xenon running lights... I got them with my GTI, and damned if I could bring myself to replace them with normal/better lamps when one burned out. :shobon:

Crab Dad
Dec 28, 2002

behold i have tempered and refined thee, but not as silver; as CRAB


So I got the replacement assembly from the junkyard but surprise the part was mildly busted. At least the bulb housing was good but it required a lot of extra time to create one good assembly out of my original one and the junk yard replacement. The light plugs in and works now.

Final thing. I can't get the collar over the plug and on the housing. Any suggestions? I feel like it shouldn't be forced but I don't really know.



These are the spare pieces I'm fooling around with.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr
87 Mazda B2000

Well I am dumb and plugged the valve cover pressure vent (not the PCV, the plain vent that normally runs to the air cleaner assembly) because I was concerned about how some oil was going up into the air cleaner. After a quick loop around the area since I was really more focused on adjusting the choke today I got back and found quite a lot of oil had sprayed to the back of the engine compartment and was dripping its way down to the driveway.

So, blown valve cover gasket? Anything else I need to worry about?

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr
Yep, got some more oil in it and sure enough I can see some shooting out the back of the valve cover while it is cranked. Didn't see any coming out of the head gasket in the same area, but I'll have to keep an eye on it. :ughh:

autism ZX spectrum
Feb 8, 2007

by Lowtax
Fun Shoe

LingcodKilla posted:

So I got the replacement assembly from the junkyard but surprise the part was mildly busted. At least the bulb housing was good but it required a lot of extra time to create one good assembly out of my original one and the junk yard replacement. The light plugs in and works now.

Final thing. I can't get the collar over the plug and on the housing. Any suggestions? I feel like it shouldn't be forced but I don't really know.


These are the spare pieces I'm fooling around with.

I'm pretty sure these are just a pain in the dick, I recall working with them at some point (I want to say it was on my old Ranger?). Is the other one still on the headlight? if so take a look at how it lines up. I think they only go on one way and it really sucks to line them up.

Crab Dad
Dec 28, 2002

behold i have tempered and refined thee, but not as silver; as CRAB


Breakfast Feud posted:

I'm pretty sure these are just a pain in the dick, I recall working with them at some point (I want to say it was on my old Ranger?). Is the other one still on the headlight? if so take a look at how it lines up. I think they only go on one way and it really sucks to line them up.

Lol the other one was missing but I ended up forcing the spare over it after watching some videos of the next generation version. Apparently it pops on. Got on both one without breaking anything but it took a little force.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
About 6 months ago I bought a 1989 VW Golf GL because it was a pretty good deal and completely rust free, well I've mostly got it fixed up but I have one kind of odd issue I can't figure out. The oil pressure at the head starts out fine at about 45psi at idle, over about 20 minutes it slowly drops down to about 4psi which triggers the idiot light. Revving it past 1.1k or putting it in neutral both raise it enough to get the light to turn off.

The bottom end pressure reads fine, and the high rpm pressure buzzer doesn't go off. Crank/rod Bearings, hydraulic lifters, and oil pump have all been changed which made it run better, but still didn't fix this issue. The thing has about 60k miles on it but was last owned by a movie studio who ran it with it's original 1989 timing belt and water pump for about 5 years and did the most lazy transmission swap I've ever seen. It's not burning oil/coolant and is running 15/50 oil at the moment.

Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Mar 14, 2017

TWSS
Jun 19, 2008
Let's say I were to build stainless manifolds and turbocharge my LQ4 Denali, would I get better mileage out of boost if it's tuned properly?

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


Probably not. At best, you'd be around the same, in all probablility it'd be worse.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

TWSS posted:

Let's say I were to build stainless manifolds and turbocharge my LQ4 Denali, would I get better mileage out of boost if it's tuned properly?

Theoretically, turbocharging should increase the overall efficiency a bit, but probably not enough to notice. The main value of turbocharging is wringing more net power from the same displacement.

The power curve on a turbo engine isn't linear, so you have to be very careful with your right foot to modulate it. In actual practice, you will simply get more power from the same throttle position, so you'll tend to accelerate harder and burn more fuel overall.

0toShifty
Aug 21, 2005
0 to Stiffy?

LingcodKilla posted:

So I got the replacement assembly from the junkyard but surprise the part was mildly busted. At least the bulb housing was good but it required a lot of extra time to create one good assembly out of my original one and the junk yard replacement. The light plugs in and works now.

Final thing. I can't get the collar over the plug and on the housing. Any suggestions? I feel like it shouldn't be forced but I don't really know.



These are the spare pieces I'm fooling around with.

The collar typically only holds the bulb on - once the bulb is secured - just plug the connector on.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Cop Porn Popper posted:

Probably not. At best, you'd be around the same, in all probablility it'd be worse.

It'd be worse, absolutely.

Why?

Can you imagine not putting your foot down with a turbo LQ?

Butt Reactor
Oct 6, 2005

Even in zero gravity, you're an asshole.
Any suggestions on tracking a stolen car? My mom's 96 Civic (a DX base sedan with 350k miles on it :psyduck: ) was abducted this morning out of her carport, and both the police and insurance said lately 94-96 civics tend to be a hot item. I've already perused craigslist and the like to see if it shows up anywhere, but I'm really thinking it's headed towards a chop shop. I know I can't do much, but if anyone with auto skills can think outside the box it would be you goons.

EightBit
Jan 7, 2006
I spent money on this line of text just to make the "Stupid Newbie" go away.

TWSS posted:

Let's say I were to build stainless manifolds and turbocharge my LQ4 Denali, would I get better mileage out of boost if it's tuned properly?

Worse. None of the energy the turbo recovers from waste heat goes into your wheels, and it still creates backpressure. You'll get more power, but that comes with burning more fuel.

Small engines with a turbo get better mileage than a larger NA engine because they are lighter and have less parasitic loss due to fewer bearings etc., not because turbos are magic. Getting more power requires more fuel, which requires more air.

Crab Dad
Dec 28, 2002

behold i have tempered and refined thee, but not as silver; as CRAB


Butt Reactor posted:

Any suggestions on tracking a stolen car? My mom's 96 Civic (a DX base sedan with 350k miles on it :psyduck: ) was abducted this morning out of her carport, and both the police and insurance said lately 94-96 civics tend to be a hot item. I've already perused craigslist and the like to see if it shows up anywhere, but I'm really thinking it's headed towards a chop shop. I know I can't do much, but if anyone with auto skills can think outside the box it would be you goons.

Put an add in craigslist looking to buy a 94-96 civic for a project car high engine mileage ok for about $500 more than it would get for parts/scrap.

Butt Reactor
Oct 6, 2005

Even in zero gravity, you're an asshole.

LingcodKilla posted:

Put an add in craigslist looking to buy a 94-96 civic for a project car high engine mileage ok for about $500 more than it would get for parts/scrap.

Done, I like the way you think: https://tinyurl.com/h3283nn

Crab Dad
Dec 28, 2002

behold i have tempered and refined thee, but not as silver; as CRAB


Butt Reactor posted:

Done, I like the way you think: https://tinyurl.com/h3283nn

Good luck! Would have also added willing pay with some sort of pistol too if it's legal in your state to make face to face transfers.

example
$1500 or $1100 with gen2 glock 19

Crab Dad fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Mar 14, 2017

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Post up if you get it back, but I'd put very strong odds on that car being already trashed / ripped apart to sell spares.

The Duchess Smackarse
May 8, 2012

by Lowtax
Guys my 2011 smart fortwo is showing a double wrench which means service BUT I bought it 7200 km (4475 miles) ago and the dealer that sold it to me said they had serviced it. Maybe they forgot to reset the thing? What the heck! It seems too early for service.

I mean I guess I'll get it serviced properly anyways since it just got repaired after a collision but I'm told it's going to cost like $350. Balls.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Jimmy Hats posted:

Guys my 2011 smart fortwo is showing a double wrench which means service BUT I bought it 7200 km (4475 miles) ago and the dealer that sold it to me said they had serviced it. Maybe they forgot to reset the thing? What the heck! It seems too early for service.

I mean I guess I'll get it serviced properly anyways since it just got repaired after a collision but I'm told it's going to cost like $350. Balls.

Doesn't "service" just mean an oil change? Why would it run $350?

There's also a procedure for resetting the double wrench light if you don't think it's due. Google it.

The Duchess Smackarse
May 8, 2012

by Lowtax

Deteriorata posted:

Doesn't "service" just mean an oil change? Why would it run $350?

There's also a procedure for resetting the double wrench light if you don't think it's due. Google it.

I think it means the Mercedes B service

http://www.mercedesbenzofdenver.com/what-is-an-a-service-or-b-service-.htm

Yeah I might just reset the light myself, but as I mentioned before I was involved in a collision and wonder if having the rest of the car looked at wouldn't be a terrible idea. I have to go in regardless because I have an airbag fault alarm showing from when the other guys worked on the car, no idea how they managed to trigger it.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?

IOwnCalculus posted:

Post up if you get it back, but I'd put very strong odds on that car being already trashed / ripped apart to sell spares.

It's already been gutted and traded for meth in WVC/Kearns. Sorry Butt Reactor.

cephalopods
Aug 11, 2013

cephalopods posted:

2006 Focus hatchback, black.

When I turn the key to accessory, I hear a disconcerting grinding/gurgling noise from under my backseat. When I start the car, it cranks for longer than it should. Fuel pump, correct?

I just noticed this yesterday. How long do I have before it strands me somewhere? The closest thing I have to a regular mechanic is my tire-and-oil-changes place, so I need to grab some quotes and all that. Anyone have a ballpark for what this will cost me in Michigan?

Update on this: My fuel line was leaking, just behind the front seats. Dripping. The noise I was hearing was probably the pump re-pressurizing the system from 0 every time I turned the key. Paid a local shop $80 to splice in a new section of line. Haven't visually inspected it (holy gently caress it's cold outside, and my driveway is covered in snow) but I made sure it wasn't dripping anymore before I left their lot.
I ordered a fuel filter online and couldn't cancel in time, so I've got that sitting around now. Might as well do that eventually.

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Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:


Any reason not to get the $14 flex-fan instead of the $36 OEM fan? The hole pattern looks completely different but rockauto says it fits; is it assuming I'd replace the clutch as well with one fitting that pattern?

(Really, this just determines how much effort bending the current fan back into shape is worth)

Javid fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Mar 15, 2017

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