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Motronic posted:(I kid I kid....if I was starting over it would NOT be DeWalt....I'm in there because of inertia/batteries/chargers) What's wrong with dewalt? I've got one or two of their drills and it's been pretty reliable so far.
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Jan 25, 2021 13:46
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Whichever brand you get, make sure to get a good quality bit. A lovely bit with a good drill is worse than a lovely drill with a good bit.
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Jan 25, 2021 14:45
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Outrail posted:What's wrong with dewalt? I've got one or two of their drills and it's been pretty reliable so far. Reliability of the tools is not an issue. I really don't like the new batteries - they like to drain to the point where the chargers won't charge them anymore, then you need to "jump" them off of another battery. And maybe they work again. Their 18 to 20v adapter (old tools to new tools) are a complete joke. I've had two of them literally explode internally. I'm not sure what it is that exploding because there's nothing left of it. They're also no longer the leader in "I need this obscure tool, but with a battery instead of a cord". At least for the stuff I needed, they used ot be way out in front. But there's only so many things like grease guns I'm ever gonna need and everyone had them now. Not that other colors haven't done similar bad things, but I'm kinda over their crap.
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Jan 25, 2021 15:52
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How long does it take for the batteries to go? Mine have been sitting in the garage through - 20c winters and poo poo for two years and still seem fine. Is it a widely accepted issue or something from a few years back?
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Jan 25, 2021 16:08
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Outrail posted:How long does it take for the batteries to go? Mine have been sitting in the garage through - 20c winters and poo poo for two years and still seem fine. Is it a widely accepted issue or something from a few years back? Mine sit outside as well for the most part. It's not about sitting, it's about usage, number of charge cycles and sitting empty or close to it. I've lost 3 batteries in the last 2 years. That's entirely too many. One was warrantied by mail out of "courtesy" and I was told I'd need to bring any more to a dewalt service center, the closest of which is over an hour away. One of those batteries simply won't charge. The other one charges, is missing the middle light in the display and doesn't work on certain tools but works on others. So add to the list of problems: playing warranty shenanigans.
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Jan 25, 2021 16:15
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Motronic posted:Reliability of the tools is not an issue. I really don't like the new batteries - they like to drain to the point where the chargers won't charge them anymore, then you need to "jump" them off of another battery. And maybe they work again. Their 18 to 20v adapter (old tools to new tools) are a complete joke. I've had two of them literally explode internally. I'm not sure what it is that exploding because there's nothing left of it. They're also no longer the leader in "I need this obscure tool, but with a battery instead of a cord". At least for the stuff I needed, they used ot be way out in front. But there's only so many things like grease guns I'm ever gonna need and everyone had them now. I took the plunge and replaced the older, larger form factor DeWalt batteries for my existing drill. When the DeWalt batteries finally died, I had bought a Rigid, and it worked OK, until I found out the chuck can't grip a bit smalled than 1/8". I really liked the DeWalt, and have zero regrets. I did debate getting the adapter and buying the LiPo slimmies. Now I'm glad I didn't.
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Jan 25, 2021 16:22
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Colostomy Bag posted:Heh, I'm a weirdo too and looked it up. What the gently caress was GM thinking on that design? The only thing I can think of is an engineer thinking "Well maybe if we make this smaller than usual, then the oil change guy might think twice before applying massive torque on it." It's a Daewoo in drag, what do you expect.  That engine has some interesting issues... like the valve cover cracking and causing lean codes. And a lot of the fasteners on the engine are e-torx (I think that goes for much of the car, actually) I actually LIKE the Cruze - for what it is, it has decent power, good mileage, and handles decent - but working on them is a pain.
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Jan 25, 2021 17:34
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wesleywillis posted:Whichever brand you get, make sure to get a good quality bit. A lovely bit with a good drill is worse than a lovely drill with a good bit. One of those titanium drill bits still lives in one of our spice rack shelves. It's his forever home, now. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2021 17:39
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I have zero car experience and I need to replace the battery in my 2006 Scion xA. Normally I'd just go sit in the waiting room at Walmart, but COVID. All of the "find your battery" websites say it needs a 25 battery, but it currently has an Everstart 31 in there. Moreover, none of the local stores have either of these size batteries in stock. Am I SOL? Is there another size that will work with my car?
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Jan 25, 2021 18:53
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Lester Shy posted:I have zero car experience and I need to replace the battery in my 2006 Scion xA. Normally I'd just go sit in the waiting room at Walmart, but COVID. All of the "find your battery" websites say it needs a 25 battery, but it currently has an Everstart 31 in there. Moreover, none of the local stores have either of these size batteries in stock. Am I SOL? Is there another size that will work with my car? Does your current battery list CCA too? You want the same CCA (cold cranking amps) as the old one at least, this is really the only thing that matters. (besides buying a too big battery that won't fit) VVV I was thinking about bringing that up. Usually there are straps or an enclosure or some sort of wedge that you screw down so the battery doesn't move. What did your old owner do? Cage fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 19:01
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Maybe a silly question, but is the battery in there nice and secure and tied down?
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Jan 25, 2021 19:12
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Cage posted:Group size just means the size of the battery. So an old owner figured they might as well throw a bigger battery in since it fits. You can use group size 26, 27, 28, 29, or 30 instead. I don't know which of these actually exist, you'll have to keep using your inventory checker. Also if you do the battery swap yourself, pay attention to whether or not there's an "F" after the number. F denotes swapped positive and negative terminals. Plop it in and hook it up the way it was and you've just fried most of the electrical system. I mixed up a 24 and 24F once. Thankfully an older car, only blew the radio and the main fuse at that time (alternator poo poo itself 2 weeks later, likely related).
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Jan 25, 2021 19:24
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Update on the Cruze drain plug: I went out and got a better, 6pt 10mm socket (1/2" drive) and still ran into the same problem. Tried applying extra force with a) a hammer and b) a pipe on the end of the wrench. Still no good, and by this point I could tell that the thing was well and truly hosed. So I took it into the shop where I normally get maintenance work done, mentioned the problem, and they said that yeah, it's a pretty common one, and they end up replacing a lot of them. Seems the small size of the nut is in fact a big part of the problem. At least now I have the tools I'll need for future oil changes.changes. Hopefully changing the cabin and engine air filters will be a bit easier. I actually did change the engine filter on my previous car, so I have an idea what to expect. And I know that yes, I'll have to take apart a good part of the dashboard for the cabin filter. According to my manual, I'm also supposed to get transmission and brake fluids changed as well; but after my recent experience, I have to admit I'm a bit gun-shy about tackling those myself. I understand they're a bit more involved than a standard oil change.
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Jan 25, 2021 20:49
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Meaty Ore posted:Update on the Cruze drain plug: I guess I don't know about your specific car, but it *shouldn't* be that hard to change a cabin air filter. You'll probably have to take out the glove box and....... https://howtune.com/articles/348-change-the-cabin-air-filter-on-a-chevrolet-cruze I've never done it myself, but it sounds like about a 15 minute job. THeres probably a video on the youtubes about it too. melon cat posted:A good point, but what's a good quality bit nowadays? I've had DeWalt titaniums snap on me after only a couple of uses. Well, they're only titanium *coated*  most of them. But I dunno TBH. A good name brand should work fine, that being said even good quality small diameter bits break easy. I've considered over the years, buying some really good quality bits, I'm talking like industrial strength expensive as gently caress bits but then I realize, I'll probably just break them or dull the poo poo out of them and then I'm out a bunch of money. For the same price as some of the ultra mega quality single bits I've seen for sale at places like brafasco, fastenal, acklands grainger etc, I figure I can almost have a lifetime supply of cheap bits from Canadian tire, princess auto, Home-lowes etc.... That will work "good enough" for the majority of applications that I'll ever use them for. As far as hammer drill bits that the oz-goon was asking about, at work we use Bosch brand SDS plus and SDS max bits. THey don't get used every single day, but they get regular use and hold up well.
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Jan 25, 2021 22:01
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Norseman are the ones waiting on my wishlist for when I need a really good drill bit. I got the recommendation here awhile back.
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Jan 25, 2021 22:08
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fJ83hfDvHE Looks like you have to pop off a bunch of trim panels on a 2016 Cruze. I always end up breaking those clips But it's easier than a first-gen Mazda 3!
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Jan 25, 2021 22:44
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What's a transmission jack that is worth buying? Top answer I've received so far is "you can bench press it out no problem" So please beat that one
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Jan 26, 2021 07:39
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Scud Hansen posted:What's a transmission jack that is worth buying? If you have a child small enough to fit under the car, but large enough to hold it while you disconnect stuff, then problem solved
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Jan 26, 2021 08:59
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A sufficiently small dog with a tray strapped to its back.
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Jan 26, 2021 09:01
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Just drop it on the ground and drag it
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Jan 26, 2021 13:01
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Very stupid AI question: if I wanted to make a kit car, and incorporate some level of modern safety features like crumple zones, airbags, those seatbelt explosive locks etc, is that entirely unrealistic? Are all kit cars doomed to have 1980s levels of crash protection death-trapness? It's been a dream of mine for a long time, knowing nothing about it, but there's not much point if it's a car that I wouldn't want to actually use. Apologies for the inherently vague question.
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Jan 26, 2021 15:34
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Scud Hansen posted:What's a transmission jack that is worth buying? Whatever one clips on to your floor jack (assuming you're not working on a lift).
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Jan 26, 2021 16:38
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gonadic io posted:Very stupid AI question: if I wanted to make a kit car, and incorporate some level of modern safety features like crumple zones, airbags, those seatbelt explosive locks etc, is that entirely unrealistic? Are all kit cars doomed to have 1980s levels of crash protection death-trapness? Yes, it's entirely unrealistic if you're asking here. These are engineered systems - structural (crumple zones), mechanical and electronic that aren't just widgets you put into whatever. Unless the base of the kit car has these features and can retain them you're likely to make things more dangerous rather than less in trying to add them in as bits and bobs.
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Jan 26, 2021 17:27
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on the other hand if you have an OEM platform sized budget you can definitely do it!
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Jan 26, 2021 17:31
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Erulisse posted:Just drop it on the ground and drag it
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Jan 26, 2021 17:37
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You could design such a thing but it will take literally years to learn how, and you'll need to also learn how to produce the stampings needed to exactly implement the chassis design you came up with, and therefore will need to design the dies for each one, and make them or have them made. Etc etc etc. You are looking at several million dollars in hardware and a decade of your life at least. And being at all certain that any of what you built (1) is actually safe rather than crumpling in a place you didn't expect and crushing your legs and (2) actually conforms to your simulation will require at least a handful of crash tests, so you're looking at at least 4 to 10 cars built just to smash into walls. Airbags are absolutely non trivial to develop especially if you want to have multi stage or curtain bags, etc etc. You have tens of milliseconds from the first hints of an accident showing up on your impact sensors and satellite accelerometers to decide if you are inflating and if so, which airbags and how hard. This costs tens of thousands of dollars for even the barest hints of testing, we had some extremely dry german engineers from a rather large german automotive electrical systems company on many conf calls when I worked on this. If you don't know what an eigenvector is, don't even bother, if you do (but haven't used them in a decade, like me) you should still be worried. Even OEMs screw this up on a semi regular basis. For example you may notice that mid 90s Subarus have a serious rust issue on the bottom of the front frame horns. This is because testing their airbag system did not reveal a serious issue that became immediately apparent upon customers buying the cars - if you scrape the factory shipping tiedown hooks over a parking curb, there's a big chance the airbags will go off, because it looks exactly like a full frontal impact to the forward satellite accelerometers. The factory fix on several hundred thousand cars was "bring it to the dealer and we'll oxy torch the hooks off", which had a negative impact on the rust prevention coatings. I wish you luck and I'd love to watch the project and offer suggestions, but I think you're going to disappoint yourself unless you are independently wealthy and at that point I'd say go talk to Local Motors about a project or just build and buy a Rallyfighter. Scud Hansen posted:What's a transmission jack that is worth buying? I have the harbor freight 800lb one and like it. Bench pressing it out has never been the issue for me, bench pressing it back in, getting it lined up perfectly and the bolts started all at once is a loving pain, at least if it's anything beyond like a 75lb baby's first manual trans.
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Jan 26, 2021 18:58
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Hmm, thanks for the replies I guess I kind of knew that was going to be the answer. This is why all the various project car youtubers and stuff entirely ignore and don't even consider this stuff. I had hoped I'd be at an advantage over them because I do embedded microcontroller real-time programming stuff (and have no fear of canbus) and do know what an eigenvector is but alas. I guess the next question is if I am okay driving around a car that's 40 years behind in terms of safety vs I guess modifying a new car instead of doing something from scratch? Or just scrapping the whole idea and picking some dumb hobby less likely to kill me, the people in the car with me, and the people in the other car or whatever.
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Jan 26, 2021 19:16
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Sounds like you're pretty much in the position I am, or know more - I'm an embedded systems engineer also. Just... A bit more rusty on higher level math than you. I heard eigenvector and was like "oh poo poo, I guess I'm taking notes on that and relearning this via Google this week..." I'm sure you can do the electrical side of it, it's not particularly challenging. The signal analysis to make a go/no-go decision and the mechanical engineering and manufacturing engineering are going to be nearly insurmountable, though, unless you find a rich backer and a bored team of Detroit auto engineers. I just kind of... Only do modifications to my old cars that I know won't make things worse for me, and remember that I might fuckin' die in a fire while driving them.
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Jan 26, 2021 19:29
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gonadic io posted:Hmm, thanks for the replies I guess I kind of knew that was going to be the answer. This is why all the various project car youtubers and stuff entirely ignore and don't even consider this stuff. I had hoped I'd be at an advantage over them because I do embedded microcontroller real-time programming stuff (and have no fear of canbus) and do know what an eigenvector is but alas. Can I ask what you're actually intending to do? Like building a Seven/Locost is a perfectly respectable thing to do - you just have to be OK with the fact that if you get in the wrong kind of accident in a Seven (which is most) you die.
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Jan 26, 2021 20:29
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Can I ask what you're actually intending to do? Like building a Seven/Locost is a perfectly respectable thing to do - you just have to be OK with the fact that if you get in the wrong kind of accident in a Seven (which is most) you die. The kind of pie-in-the-sky plan is (was) to rebuild a classic mini (no prizes for guessing which youtube series I got into at the start of lockdown) or at least something with the outer shell of one. BUT I wanted to do it as an EV, and to not do that stupid loving thing where somebody puts a motor in place of an ICE and call it good (and just stays in 2nd gear at all times) but instead investigate axial flux motors to do either 4x in-wheel direct-drive motors or some nonsense like that (including electronicly simulated transmission and diffs etc). This would require an entirely re-engineered frame and subframes. I just really feel like this kind of system means you can seriously reduce the mechanical complexity and maintenance cost of components that are mostly holdovers from ICE. Yes I'm aware I have crippling undiagnosed adhd and this is a fever dream of a decade-long and expensive way to die.
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Jan 26, 2021 20:38
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it sounds like a cool project, you should do it! the odds of you getting in to a position where you kill yourself in a car accident are not real high because projects like this tend to never get finished, but you should go for it.gonadic io posted:(including electronicly simulated transmission and diffs etc) why though? why do you want to take away the advantages of EV drivetrain
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Jan 26, 2021 21:00
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:it sounds like a cool project, you should do it! the odds of you getting in to a position where you kill yourself in a car accident are not real high because projects like this tend to never get finished, but you should go for it. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:why though? why do you want to take away the advantages of EV drivetrain Fewer parts, less maintenance, in theory lower cost assuming that the motors aren't outrageously expensive, in theory higher efficiency due to both axial flux motors and no drivetrain efficiency costs. Downsides include: much lower torque for the same motor, suspension will be hosed up because the motor will be part of the wheel weight, motors not in mass-production means massively higher cost, high amounts of electronic complexity and efficiency losses (4 inverters etc). e: I mostly asked my original question because I'm trying to gauge where to set my sights for this kind of project, and to work out what is "some dumb decade long project" and what is "literally impossible without a further 20 years of study and tens of millions of dollars". gonadic io fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jan 26, 2021 |
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Jan 26, 2021 21:06
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Electrification seems really hard. I've heard a Celica GT4 drivetrain essentially bolts right in to a classic mini. You should just do that.
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Jan 26, 2021 21:25
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Electrification seems really hard. I've heard a Celica GT4 drivetrain essentially bolts right in to a classic mini. There's a handy video guide to it even!
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Jan 26, 2021 21:26
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i meant why would you want to simulate a transmission, not why EV or even hub motors (I understand the theoretical advantages even if I don't really believe they're practicable)
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Jan 26, 2021 22:38
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Oh I think I just used the wrong word. I wouldn't get bogged down in specific details of the plan this decade.
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Jan 26, 2021 22:49
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Electrification seems really hard. I've heard a Celica GT4 drivetrain essentially bolts right in to a classic mini. Yeah you just need to fabricate a bracket or two
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Jan 27, 2021 00:23
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spankmeister posted:Yeah you just need to fabricate a bracket or two While you get the funk out.
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Jan 27, 2021 00:50
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That sounds like a really cool idea and you should do it. I've already been spitballing the same idea but with a Subaru Justy, with the hard to find suspension parts replaced with a mix of 90s Honda, Toyota, and Nissan parts and the drive unit based off a mix of Nissan Leaf and Toyota Prius. I just assumed I'd still die horribly in my deathtrap clown car.
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Jan 27, 2021 00:56
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Justy for technical, convenience, or comedy reasons?
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Jan 27, 2021 01:02
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