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BMW 7-Series, recent-but-not-current model. Rear tires said "Inside" on the outside. That's bad right? Newish tires, plenty of tread, but the driver was having real trouble with traction. Few months ago I saw a similar thing on a Mercedes roadster.
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Jul 8, 2015 02:21
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Enourmo posted:It would affect cornering, but asymmetric tires shouldn't affect acceleration or braking all that much just being on wrong; either way you're got one tire with "inside" facing right and one facing left. Should still be corrected, though. Thanks.
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Jul 8, 2015 15:49
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 Looked at a New 2015 Accord last night. See on the block between the exhaust cover thing on the left and the dipstick on the right there is a shiny faced hole? It is threaded and say 0.5-1.0 cm deep. Is there something missing there? The shiny surface looked like it is meant to mate to something, like a washer or a bolt.
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Oct 26, 2015 03:17
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Motronic posted:If you're concerned about this (it's a new vehicle under warranty) why not ask them, or open the hood of the dozen on either side of it to see if they are the same? I didn't buy it, and it wasn't in with the rest of them. Was just curious if it was obviously something, hence stupid questions. Sales guy had no idea.
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Oct 26, 2015 05:16
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0toShifty posted:On the older Honda engines - I know there are holes like that provided for hoisting the engine - the service manual tells you to attach a hoisting bracket to that hole with a M10x1.25 bolt. There should be one diagonally opposite, back of the head for the other hoist point I think. Thanks! Glad I piqued your interest. https://xkcd.com/356/
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Oct 26, 2015 20:57
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Godholio posted:For about $25 you can get a dongle that plugs into your car and you can do it all from your phone/tablet. How does one wade through the sea of Cheap Chinese Crap to find the correct Cheap Chinese Crap? Christmas is coming, and I have $12 in Google Play credit and was thinking about getting a BT OBD2 adapter + paid app. Are there better models for various cars, or is that mostly on the app side? I was hoping it would do more than just read codes, hence paying for the app. In order of caring: 2009 Z4, 2016 Prius V, 2013 Civic
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Nov 22, 2015 15:59
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Uthor posted:This one was recommended to me by goons and works great. I recommended it to someone else and it works great for them, too. Thanks! Which software do you use with it on your phone?
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Nov 22, 2015 16:14
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B4Ctom1 posted:Here is the iPad/iPhone/iPod version I have that uses wifi instead of bluetooth since Apple's bluetooth compatibility is corporately controlled Godholio posted:I literally bought the cheapest one on Amazon at the time. Whether you need BT or wifi depends on your phone/tablet though (I guess you've got android). IOS devices don't usually like cheap BT things like these, so you'd want wifi. For android, I guess it doesn't matter. I didn't know this and bought a BT dongle, which works fine with my android tablet but isn't even detected by my iphone. Torque Pro is the app you want on android, it does all kinds of data monitoring/logging. I think it's $5. There's something similar for IOS, Dash Command. Awesome, thanks everyone.
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Nov 22, 2015 17:38
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Motronic posted:It's probably worth picking up a cheap Android phone (like a $30 pre paid) to use with a cheap BT scanner. Or ask your friends who obsessively upgrade their phones if they have something kicking around in a drawer. Hit factory reset on it and off you go. Or you know, cheap chinese crap: http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Google-Android-4-4-KitKat-Tablet-PC-A33-Quad-Core-HD-8GB-Dual-Camera-Wi-Fi-/261797626422 They're really bad but probably work.
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Nov 23, 2015 02:27
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tater_salad posted:re Bluetooth OBDII chat. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.palmerperformance.DashCommand&hl=en ? I will probably play with a bunch of them since the penalty for error is so low. tater_salad posted:NEVER EVER EVER.. GET UNDER A CAR WITHOUT JACKSTANDS NEVER.. I solve this by not owning a jack. 
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Nov 24, 2015 16:43
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tater_salad posted:scissor jack.. (Oh god please don't do this.. especially don't do this) gently caress scissor jacks. I sit on my feet when I use them to guarantee I don't do something absentmindedly.
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Nov 24, 2015 17:41
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fuckpot posted:I just bought a 2015 Nissan Pulsar SSS. I reas reading the specifications sheet (http://www.nissan.com.au/~/media/Files/Brochures/Specifications/2015-04/Pulsar_eSpecs.ashx) and it says to use 95RON fuel. The compression ratio of the engine is 9.5:1 which I'm led to believe is an important factor when deciding what fuel to use. Here in the USA it's $2 USD more per fillup to not have your engine hate you, and you be frustrated with your cars performance. You bought the top of the line car for its model, and are now surprised by increased maintenance costs? Looking at MSRP in Sydney (Postcode 1235) it's $23, $25, $30k for the three models, yours being $30k.
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Nov 25, 2015 15:41
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Grouco posted:Good call. I checked this morning-- my front right wheel only has 2 lug nuts on it.... Buy AAA and have them tow it wherever you need to go. A car that old it's an investment in your future.
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Nov 29, 2015 17:20
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tater_salad posted:Check with your insurance company since it happened while parked it may be a $0 comprehensive claim since yiu didn't drive into anything.. a fuckin projectile of some sort hit your little earth loving car. This is a thing? Which state are you in?
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Dec 5, 2015 03:50
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Geoj posted:It would likely be covered under comprehensive since you didn't collide with anything, and there's a good chance you have a lower deductible for comprehensive than collision because comprehensive is so cheap. I feel like I should be lowering my comprehensive deductible. It's currently the same as my collision at $500.
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Dec 6, 2015 04:55
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Geoj posted:Yeah, look at your quotes - unless you have a really bad record I'd be surprised if dropping it down to $100 would raise your rate by more than $20. Interesting. The mileages haven't averaged out yet on the vehicles as we just switched to the prius for the "commuter" car, and it has a lienholder if that matters. Total increase in 6 Month Premium resulting from this change: Z4: $0/$16.08, $100/$12.12 Civic: $0/16.55, $100/$12.04 Priusv: $0/$26.61, $100/19.58
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Dec 6, 2015 15:33
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Motronic posted:loving GM making an electronic poo poo show out of the simplest things. On my VW Jetta4 the second fan would engage 100% of the time the AC compressor was operating, but only "sometimes" when it wasn't. This may be an easy way to force on the "high" mode.
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Dec 7, 2015 05:36
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2009 BMW Z4 (E89) sdrive30. Sucked in a lot of dust at the track, want to replace air filters. Cabin air filter is part 64 31 9 195 194. Is there any reason not to just get the also-fit brands for around half as much as the OEM/superior-german-adhesives filter? Planning on getting the charcoal ones regardless. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/4803/BMW_4803_VENTAC_pg1.htm http://smile.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-CUK-2339-Filter-Activated/dp/B001DRHMN2/ And funny story, the engine air filter shows two very different shapes as "valid" for my car, same question, but I will pop out my filter to know which shape I should buy. http://smile.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-LX-1250-Filter/dp/B0080E52L0 http://smile.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-W0133-1846450-MAN-Mann-Filter-Air/dp/B005BFL1L6/r http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/4803/BMW_4803_BASFLT_pg1.htm
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Dec 11, 2015 05:43
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spankmeister posted:Some brands are better than others. I usually just get Bosch as it's OEM but doesn't have the VAG logos and part numbers but is the exact same part otherwise. On my Jetta Mk4 2.slow I was throwing parts at the coil pack and the sparkplug wires from Autozone had the VAG logos half heartedly ground off such that you could still see ~50% of the VW/Audi on it. Should I just pop out my current filters and buy whichever manufacturer it says on them then? Seems reasonable to me.
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Dec 11, 2015 06:34
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Deeters posted:Wasn't there a tire thread here? Anyway, I'm looking to replace the tires on my Camry and I'm between these Generals or these Yokohamas. I'm leaning towards the Yokohamas if the local tire shop has them in stock and will match the Tire Rack price. Otherwise the Generals have better ratings, so I'd go with them. Any thoughts on either tire? For a camry in normal weather (no insane rain or snow concerns) I would get whichever is cheaper between those two.
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Dec 17, 2015 22:55
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spankmeister posted:I've tried a spray cleaner but I can't get rid of the corrosion with a contact cleaner alone, I guess what I'm looking for is tips on what kind of tools work best to get into the small holes. Funny question, has the coil pack been replaced under recall? If not see if the dealer will just give you a new one. There was a recall on the mk4 coil packs many moons ago.
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Dec 21, 2015 16:56
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Voltage posted:So I have to hand in my fiesta st least in a few days so I have to get another car soon. It's a great car butI I don't feel like taking out a $17,000 loan to buy it out, especially when my fiancé has student loans and I still have a few grand in credit card debt I'm trying to rid myself of. If you're trying to get rid of debt a lease is basically the worst idea unless it enables you to pay down your credit cards faster than a payment. If you have "a few grand" in debt pickup a shitbox and exchange it for a off-lease vehicle (where some chump paid the depreciation) as a "reward" for getting rid of your credit card debt. Or keep it until it fails spectacularly then do the same thing. Get out of debt first, then buy luxury items.
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Dec 24, 2015 22:47
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Can you guys recommend a cheap manual car or truck? I've never learned how to drive a manual so I want to get something to beat up on and learn Coworker bought one off Craigslist sight unseen for maybe $700 Tapout stickers and rattle-can-black-matte paint job included. It had no oil on the dipstick 3 quarts in of whatever autozone had on sale for the cheapest, drove it for 2 weeks, then flipped it for a similar price.
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Dec 28, 2015 02:28
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MetaJew posted:Do you even bother registering it at that point? I don't want to scam the system or get in trouble for not owing sales tax or something stupid, but it seems like those factors would make this idea more tedious to execute. If I were a gambling man the sales slip said $100. Yes, you register it so you're insured. It's cheaper to beat the hell out of a beater than to burn out the clutch on your new fancy car.
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Dec 29, 2015 00:23
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Blow posted:The charger is a dumb one. Old school as it were. I can make sparks of the + & -. Please don't do any of that. Take your good battery if it has enough CCA's, put it in hosed car. If it doesn't make any kind of attempt, troubleshoot from there. Watch the voltage to make sure it's not loving your good battery in the process.
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Dec 29, 2015 07:33
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Jake Snake posted:2014 Honda Civic LX, trying to replace a cracked side view mirror. I need to replace the entire mirror and the glass. I found the parts online for about $100 cheaper than what the dealer quoted me, and they are genuine parts. I plan to order the parts and take it to a local mechanic to fix rather than the dealership. Why not just ask your local mechanic to quote you the repair with oem parts?
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Dec 30, 2015 06:24
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lol internet. posted:Question about tires. I just replaced my tires with non-oem tires. Whomever replaced your tires should have handled (or offered to handle) the TPMS situation for you. If the light wasn't on before you got the tires changed, take it back and talk to them. TPMS "shouldn't" fail a safety inspection if your tires are inflated correctly, but I don't know the specifics of your state. If you don't have a pressure gauge, you can get them pretty cheaply off Amazon. I have this one, but who knows which crappy manufacturer made it this year: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YC9FTQ . Tested accurate with my mechanics fancy one.
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Dec 30, 2015 18:57
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lol internet. posted:I have a tire pressure gauge and I did inflate them to spec on the side panel sticker but the light does't seem to turn off. (It wast on even before I got the tires replaced.. because at that point I assumed the tires were junk) Lookup the reset procedure. The TPMS may simply need to be recalibrated.
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Dec 30, 2015 19:31
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Cthulhuite posted:Hmmm, something weird. 2001 BMW 325i - no crank, no start. Radio comes on but lights have started to dim as I was testing the EWS. Got a multimeter on the battery to check and it's showing me 13.5 volts when the car is off and 8.5~ on? If it was flat as my dim bulbs would suggest, shouldn't it not be that high when off? Dead cell in the battery. Replace it.
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Dec 31, 2015 21:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:Space-saver spares and runflats only exist to let you avoid either towing the car to a shop, or coming back out the next day and yanking the wheels and tires off and hauling them to a shop. The only vehicles with spares that you can run like a regular tire are the few trucks / SUVs that come with a full set of five matching wheels and regular tires on all five of them, so you can rotate the fifth one in with the rest. I was a passenger riding home 32 miles in a 2009 Mercedes ML320 with a flat right/rear tire, which is runflat. We took side streets the whole way to keep it under 50mph. Went flat when we hit a flooded portion of freeway at 65mph.  Didn't seem to hydroplane based on how hard we plowed through it and how much water displaced onto the windshield. El Niño indeed. I feel bad for his AWD system.
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Jan 12, 2016 00:13
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H110Hawk posted:I was a passenger riding home 32 miles in a 2009 Mercedes ML320 with a flat right/rear tire, which is runflat. We took side streets the whole way to keep it under 50mph. Went flat when we hit a flooded portion of freeway at 65mph. Speaking of this, he just got his car back from Costco. While they got in a replacement tire, he said they just patched it and the tire is not de-rated. Is that correct? I assume it is not longer considered "runflat" given it's basically to 50 miles "flat." I don't know the make/model of tire unfortunately, though I could look it up Thursday.
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Jan 12, 2016 19:14
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totalnewbie posted:Oh, well, that makes a lot of sense. I imagine there's a lot more "ROW" ships than "US" ships, given how arbitrarily it seems those large ships get registered (at least to an outsider). https://www.portoflosangeles.org/environment/ogv.asp Some harbors are incentivizing their ships to not be nasty. They use bunker fuel which is literally the "sludge at the bottom of the barrel" which is super nasty. They've also done things like use EV's to tote around the containers.
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Jan 20, 2016 17:54
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FBS posted:I recently spent an ungodly amount of money on a kayak and some fancy kayaking accessories. It turns out there's no good place to attach the front and rear tie down ropes on a 2014 Mazda 3 hatch, without using the screw-in tow hooks that go through the front and rear bumpers. Like so: Comedy option you will bump into a brick wall parking or someone else and damage your car and/or theirs.
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Jan 27, 2016 03:01
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Uthor posted:I'm pretty sure I can switch the units in my car with a $300 computer program by changing the country setting (it also adjusts how the lights work to meet local laws). I doubt they make different ECUs or whatever for the cars, though you'd want the markings on the cluster to indicate what they are. Does this mean the car can be programmed to not bitch that I want to leave my headlines "on" all the time?
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Jan 28, 2016 16:28
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CronoGamer posted:My fiancee drives a leased 2015 Honda Fit LX (still under warranty). She's a beginner driver and has had her share of scrapes and bumps, including a few against the curb while parallel parking. You should spend some time with her teaching her how to know the corners of her vehicle. In a lease you are in theory only paying depreciation on a vehicle, which is going to be greater for all the bumps and grinds. The obvious starter suggestion is she should be driving WAY slower when parallel parking or coming up to curbs in general. Think half off the brake, not 10% on the accelerator. Wheels and tires can take some gentle bumps against curbs with only superficial damage. If she has a backup camera, it's hopefully as good as the one in the '13 civic, use it. Setup some rubber bins or something for her to gently bump into to know where the front and rear of the car are, then have her drive within 5" of them. Have her slowly drift left over some center reflectors on an unused road, then maintain the bumping for as long as she can, and have her note where on the windshield the line intersects.
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Feb 8, 2016 18:05
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cr0y posted:I recently bought a 2014 Mercedes C300. I am currently at 30,000 miles with a manufacturer warranty until 50k. This is my first fairly new expensive vehicle and am trying to decide if a supplemental warranty through Carsense (where i bought it) or a third party makes any sense. What is the general consensus on extended auto warranties? If you do, buy it the day before your other one expires, or make sure it actually extends you warranty. You can wind up paying for double warranty coverage which is super bogus. The most important thing you can do right now is spend time finding a reputable independent mechanic for when the factory warranty expires. Once it expires never go back to the dealer except for recall work. Your service light will come on a month before it expires for you to come in and they try to either sell you the extension or a new car. Talk it up with the service writer and try to get a oil change, brake fluid, pads, and rotors if you can muster it while you discuss the policy. Get the service order written up while you read the glossy brochures. Seem excited. The price is negotiable but don't let on you know that until the service order is written up. I got all of this from my service writer as he saw dollar signs in me, third set of pads/fluid in the few years I had owned the car. I would personally only buy an extended "bumper to bumper" warranty. The drive train isn't what fails typically, it's the random electronics. If you get a third party warranty, see if your third party mechanic likes it. I bought the Mercury one. So far, 0 claims, but I only have 35k miles on my 2009 Z4.
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Feb 8, 2016 19:05
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antiga posted:I'm looking to buy a 2011 model year vehicle. The guy I've been talking to says it was his father's car and that his father signed the title before his death several years ago. Seller's mother is alive and well and has just now been convinced to sell. We met at the house, you can see the car in the driveway in Google maps pictures from a few years back. Do not buy property from anyone other than the title holder. That car needs to be correctly transferred to the mother before you should give that person anything. For all you know that car is held up in probate and not the mothers to sell.
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Feb 15, 2016 17:54
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um excuse me posted:I have to buy 8 new tires in the spring and do not want to spend $1500. Is there somewhere that is cheaper than tire rack for the same tires? Coupons? Anything? Watch for sales on Tirerack of equivalent tires in all the various brands. I assume you aren't "set" on Bridgestone Potenza for your 245/45R17? While you are in fact buying the cheapest one they have, sometimes you can get a deal just browsing the size: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireS...er=17&zip-code= I switched from Bridgestone Potenza RE-11's to Hankook Ventus R-S3's for just this reason. Edit: and check Costco.
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Feb 18, 2016 05:33
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um excuse me posted:The RE-71Rs are for autoX, I have been hearing by various people that it is the fastest UTQG 200 tire around. I'm actually not firm on the Michelins. I just hear it is a good all around summer tire. I didn't even think of Costco. I hit the limit of the operator well before the limit of my tires. Means I get to save money? 
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Feb 18, 2016 07:21
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Bovril Delight posted:Am I overthinking seeing paper tags on a car that is for sale from a private seller in Texas? You only get the paper tags when you're waiting on a permanent plate, so it just seems odd that if you're selling the car, you don't have a real plate. You get a PPI? Can you physically inspect the title? Does the name match the sellers ID?
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Feb 28, 2016 23:55
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