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b0nes posted:My family is giving me poo poo about selling my car, especially since they bought it for me. Yeah I know i'm an adult I can do what I want but I still have to hear their BS. Be an adult, get drunk, and drive it into the river and jump out. Then they can give you kudos for sobriety. Seriously wtf
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Dec 23, 2015 02:24
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b0nes posted:My family is giving me poo poo about selling my car, especially since they bought it for me. Yeah I know i'm an adult I can do what I want but I still have to hear their BS. Sounds like your family should be paying insurance on it. And storing it.
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Dec 23, 2015 02:26
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b0nes posted:My family is giving me poo poo about selling my car, especially since they bought it for me. Yeah I know i'm an adult I can do what I want but I still have to hear their BS. Trade cars and then sell his.
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Dec 23, 2015 05:11
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My own stupid question. 2003 Toyota Avalon - 1MZ-FE (3.0 V6). It needs motor mounts bad. I know I can tackle the upper mount easy, but how much of a bitch are the front and rear mounts? I only have hand tools, jack stands, and a decent floor jack. I've done mounts before on a 4 cylinder, just don't know how much more cramped it'll be on this car (i.e. should I just have someone with a lift do the rear mount?). Also don't know if the rear mount has some fancy hydraulic stuff going on, I know some cars do. Leperflesh posted:"But I can't afford insurance, it's expensive!" say a lot of people. Well, if you are struggling financially such that an extra hundred bucks a month or so in full coverage costs is going to be a serious hardship, then you are especially vulnerable financially to the costs of an accident in which your coverage proves inadequate. For some people, minimum liability makes sense, but for most people, it's really not good enough. $100 a month for full coverage is probably on the high end for a lot of people. I have pretty terrible credit, and pay $85/month for full coverage as a single male (with significantly above state minimum limits, plus roadside/towing, rental coverage, UM/UIM, one claim in 2012 [hit and run], accident forgiveness, and an extra $1k in coverage for stereo equipment that I really need to take off). And at least in most states, your credit plays a large role in your insurance rates. Someone that's married with good credit will pay quite a bit less on a typical car in many states. This is with a well known major insurance company (Nationwide). I did cheat and put both my mom and stepdad on the policy, which knocked a large chunk off, but we do live under the same roof (and mom drives my car occasionally when hers is down or I'm working on it). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Dec 23, 2015 |
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Dec 23, 2015 07:24
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IIRC front is reasonably straightforward, rear is a DIY root canal. Or it's the other way 'round... Even if it has the semi active engine mount thingy, that makes no real difference. Just unplug the wire or vacuum tube and plug/delete at your leisure. e: thinking about it further, is that the PITA one that has the engine mount sort of astride the steering rack which makes it dick-punchingly bad unless you lower the subframe and do a shitload of mechanical acrobatics? All the cars blur together 
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Dec 23, 2015 08:58
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It should be pretty similar to a Lexus ES300, and probably fairly similar to a V6 Camry (automatic) of similar vintage. I'm fairly sure it's a wire that goes to it - the car shook like a motherfucker after rodents chewed up part of the wiring harness, and improved significantly after the harness was repaired (shop said one of the wires went to the mount, others went to both knock sensors, and a couple of other wires that I don't remember). I've never been under the engine, actually the furthest I've been under the car has been reaching under to remove the oil sump drain plug, so I honestly have no idea. I know when we had a shop replace the rear bank primary O2 sensor, I learned a lot of new words when we picked up the car. But hey, the steering rack has a (tiny) leak anyway, may as well replace the rack while I'm in there. And while I'm at it, fix all of the
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Dec 23, 2015 09:44
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The temperature gauge on my 2005 Civic has started spiking if I let it idle for a few minutes. The first time I noticed it was two nights ago, when I was at Sonic dealing with a tot craving and I left the engine running while I waited for my food, ate it, and smoked a cigarette afterwards. All told it was 20-30 minutes of idling. When I was about to leave, I noticed that my dashboard thermometer needle was at the top of the gauge, so I turned the car off immediately. I tried starting it again, and it turned over but would not start. I left it for about 20 minutes and tried again, and it started right up and the thermometer looked normal (stayed at slightly below half). Just to be safe, I topped off my coolant reservoir: I'm not sure how much was in there (basically impossible to see) but there's plenty now. It happened again last night. I had been driving for about half an hour with no problems, then I pulled over into a neighborhood to text and after about ten minutes I noticed the temperature gauge was at the top again. I immediately turned off the car and felt the hood: it was warm but not hot. I popped it and felt the engine and it seemed fine: again, warm but not hot, and no steam or anything. After a couple of minutes I started the car again and it fired right up: the temperature gauge was still near the top, but I started driving and it immediately started falling, returning to its normal position in less than a minute. Possibly relatedly, I noticed a week or two ago that occasionally my heater will not blow hot air unless the car is moving. My question to you all is: what's the deal here? From my research online, it seems the most likely issues are that I have air bubbles in my coolant system, or I have a blown head gasket. I obviously hope it's not the latter, but is there an easy and cheap way to test or check which one of these it might be? Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely? Thanks so much for reading!
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Dec 23, 2015 18:42
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You could have a deteriorating water pump...if the impeller is falling apart it might not move a sufficient amount of coolant around at idle but once engine speed increases its enough to keep things in check.
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Dec 23, 2015 18:47
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Maybe your fan isn't turning on at the right time. I'm not sure this makes sense with the heat not working sometimes, but it would certainly explain why it only cools well at speed.
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Dec 23, 2015 19:19
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The rear end Stooge posted:My question to you all is: what's the deal here? From my research online, it seems the most likely issues are that I have air bubbles in my coolant system, or I have a blown head gasket. I obviously hope it's not the latter, but is there an easy and cheap way to test or check which one of these it might be? Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely? Thanks so much for reading! You only topped off the overflow, right? Can you see coolant if you remove the radiator cap? (do this with the engine cold) If not, you need to top off the radiator, then figure out where your coolant is going. Also sounds like one of the following since it's overheating at idle: Cooling fans not turning on Extremely low on coolant Water pump taking a poo poo Blown head gasket Since it pegged and wouldn't restart until it cooled down a bit, you may be dealing with a blown head gasket anyway.
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Dec 23, 2015 20:19
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Centripetal Horse posted:Some followers of my long-running GBS thread suggested I ask this in here: can anyone recommend a shop (or, maybe even better, an individual) to work on a car in the Las Vegas area? The short of it is that my car, which I am currently living in, needs to get me across the country to a new job. The car desperately needs attention before attempting a road trip of any length. The brakes on all four wheels are probably at the point of just gouging chunks of metal into one another, and the car has nothing left that could be reasonably called suspension. There are numerous other issues, as well. Someone help out Centripetal Horse. Wasn't there a goon in AI running his own shop in Vegas, but then he shut down the shop, but still does work? CH is homeless, he has a way out of his living-in-a-car and unable to get his heart condition treated predicament, but the job he just got is in Detroit and he has to get there ASAP. Here is CH's thread in GBS, if you want to catch up. I've been trying to advise him about his car but I'm just one AI goon, you guys are better experts than me.
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Dec 23, 2015 20:19
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I think cursedshitbox used to live in Vegas, he may have some idea of where to take it. I'll send him a text since I don't think he watches this thread much.
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Dec 23, 2015 20:21
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StormDrain posted:Buy some gun cleaning brushes, brass I think would be best. You may find other similar pipe cleaning brushes that will work, for peanuts. I could not find anything at several hardware and DIY places so I ended up going to a gun store which is not very easy to find in Holland let me tell you. We simply don't enjoy the freedoms of the second amendement here. Got some brushes that I think will work, gonna try to clean the coil tomorrow.
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Dec 23, 2015 20:22
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2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Any tips for removing stuck spark plug wire boots? I'm trying to replace the old ones, and they're really stuck (red circled area). Can I just cut through the old boots and destroy them for the sake of removal? 
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Dec 23, 2015 22:12
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Twist them back and forth while pulling forcefully. They should come off.
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Dec 23, 2015 22:39
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zundfolge posted:Twist them back and forth while pulling forcefully. They should come off.  But, I noticed that my new spark plug wires (NAPA brand) seem to be about 1 inch longer than the old wires. They definitely have more slack. Is this normal with aftermarket spark plug wires? And yes, I've triple-checked to ensure that I've got them plugged in the right order! 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Dec 24, 2015 |
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Dec 23, 2015 23:57
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I don't think I've ever replaced plug wires with a set that was exactly the same length.
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Dec 24, 2015 01:01
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Yeah the only time you're ever going to get the exact same length wires will be if you go to the dealer and get an exact replacement set. It's fine.
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Dec 24, 2015 01:07
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some texas redneck posted:Since it pegged and wouldn't restart until it cooled down a bit, you may be dealing with a blown head gasket anyway. I'm certainly not ruling it out, but if that were the case wouldn't it happen consistently? Most of the time it idles fine and at the expected temperature.
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Dec 24, 2015 01:22
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My girlfriend's 2010 3.8 Genesis Coupe needs to have the brake fluid flushed. Does anyone here know how to determine which adapter I need in order to use a Motive Power Bleeder with it-- without having to remove and measure the BMC cap?
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Dec 24, 2015 01:26
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Raluek posted:Maybe your fan isn't turning on at the right time. I'm not sure this makes sense with the heat not working sometimes, but it would certainly explain why it only cools well at speed. It makes sense if the fan not turning on has caused enough overheat to puke out coolant and now there is not enough and air in the system. Topping off coolant is NOT NORMAL (unless you own a Land Rover). It's either leaking or burning, and may only be leaking when it gets hot (because you pressure cap is junk). Step one is to fill and bleed the coolant properly and watch it every drat day to make sure it's not going down and your dummy gauge says it's okay (totally poor indicator, but it's what you have to work with). Clean everything and dry it. See if you can figure out where it might be leaking. And it's not a bad idea to just buy a new pressure cap (they are cheap) before filling and bleeding. It may take care of all your problems.
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Dec 24, 2015 03:29
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MetaJew posted:My girlfriend's 2010 3.8 Genesis Coupe needs to have the brake fluid flushed. Does anyone here know how to determine which adapter I need in order to use a Motive Power Bleeder with it-- without having to remove and measure the BMC cap? Check the Motive website? http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Application-Guide_ep_43.html
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Dec 24, 2015 04:57
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So I have to hand in my fiesta st least in a few days so I have to get another car soon. It's a great car butI I don't feel like taking out a $17,000 loan to buy it out, especially when my fiancé has student loans and I still have a few grand in credit card debt I'm trying to rid myself of. My fiancé only wants another new car lease, probably a new Jetta 1.4T since they have some really good deals, $230/mo 0 down, 0 first months, and $1500 cash back. However I just want to buy a used car and be done with it, really leaning towards a $2000 shitbox corolla/civic/whatever or a $4-6k Lexus ES/GS/LS. If, for example, I find a well maintained GS from some old lady who always brought it to the dealer, that would be a pretty solid buy, no? I feel the reliability won't be any different than a run of the mill Toyota.
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Dec 24, 2015 19:03
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The passenger's side kidney grille on my mom's  Fortunately, we still have it, but all the clips are broken, e.g.  What's a good place to order a replacement part from? e. huge images fixed
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Dec 24, 2015 19:37
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I think I got one for my e46 on either pelicanparts, ecstuning or just rockauto.
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Dec 24, 2015 19:46
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My friend has a 2003 3 series (325i, I think) and it has a vacuum leak but yesterday when he was driving it he came to a stop and the engine died. He said he put it in neutral and it started back up (sounds like that could be caused by the vacuum leak) and when he brakes hard/suddenly his speedometer will drop out for a second, headlights will flicker, and the dash warning lights will illuminate. He thinks it's caused by the alternator but I don't agree (unless the voltage regulator is making GBS threads itself). Could this be a bad ECU? I haven't been able to help out with it yet but I'll have time this weekend to go over and help out. Just trying to get a few ideas together first. I'll be bringing my voltmeter with me to check out the alternator... two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Dec 24, 2015 |
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Dec 24, 2015 19:58
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I'm not sure if BMW automatics let the engine freewheel or not when braking, but if they do, that could be caused by the engine RPMs dropping low enough that the alternator stops charging briefly. And a vacuum leak could definitely be causing the RPMs to do strange things. He should also check the battery cables to make sure they're not loose/corroded.
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Dec 24, 2015 20:32
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Voltage posted:So I have to hand in my fiesta st least in a few days so I have to get another car soon. It's a great car butI I don't feel like taking out a $17,000 loan to buy it out, especially when my fiancé has student loans and I still have a few grand in credit card debt I'm trying to rid myself of. I would guess that if things break, it is likely to be stuff like electric frippery that you can live without. If it meant paying off my credit cards a year earlier, I'd quite happily live with a car where the electric heated seats don't work.
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Dec 24, 2015 22:19
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Voltage posted:I think I got one for my e46 on either pelicanparts, ecstuning or just rockauto. Pelicanparts, that's what I was looking for. Rock Auto has some cheesy "chrome" things for like eight bucks a piece. Pelicanparts has the OEM piece. Does anyone know if replacing the kidney grille is as easy as just pushing the new one into place, or will Mom have to take her car to the shop?
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Dec 24, 2015 22:40
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Voltage posted:So I have to hand in my fiesta st least in a few days so I have to get another car soon. It's a great car butI I don't feel like taking out a $17,000 loan to buy it out, especially when my fiancé has student loans and I still have a few grand in credit card debt I'm trying to rid myself of. If you're trying to get rid of debt a lease is basically the worst idea unless it enables you to pay down your credit cards faster than a payment. If you have "a few grand" in debt pickup a shitbox and exchange it for a off-lease vehicle (where some chump paid the depreciation) as a "reward" for getting rid of your credit card debt. Or keep it until it fails spectacularly then do the same thing. Get out of debt first, then buy luxury items.
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Dec 24, 2015 22:47
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Centripetal Horse posted:Some followers of my long-running GBS thread suggested I ask this in here: can anyone recommend a shop (or, maybe even better, an individual) to work on a car in the Las Vegas area? The short of it is that my car, which I am currently living in, needs to get me across the country to a new job. The car desperately needs attention before attempting a road trip of any length. The brakes on all four wheels are probably at the point of just gouging chunks of metal into one another, and the car has nothing left that could be reasonably called suspension. There are numerous other issues, as well. Out of curiosity; what year & model car are you driving now? What is going wrong with it besides the brakes? Putting off maintenance leads to needing more tools, time, parts and expertise obviously so you'll need to spill the details on what it is you have and that is happening with it. No one can help you unless you're specific.
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Dec 25, 2015 00:28
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Uthor posted:Check the Motive website? Yeah, I read that, but like I said, I was hoping to avoid doing any guess work and measuring. I was able to find the adapter needed for my MS3 but the gen coupe forums don't make any mention of it for this car.
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Dec 25, 2015 04:49
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Wally Joyner posted:Out of curiosity; what year & model car are you driving now? What is going wrong with it besides the brakes? Dudes been down on his luck without a lot of ability to fix his car much less not eat fermented pineapple and rancid sausage whilst sleeping in said vehicle. If I recall it's a 0 something cobalt.
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Dec 25, 2015 05:20
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Data first: I drive a 2000 Chevy Venture (aka a red piece of garbage) Story second: I was getting off the highway and noticed a dude in front of me was stopped. I began to move around him when I realized the reason he was stopped was that a light pole had fallen into the off ramp. I slammed on my brakes but still managed to go right over it. I got out and inspected the damage and was immediately aware that I was losing some fluid so I moved to a nearby gas station. While pulling in I got the distinct impression that my power steering was not working. Somehow it seems like the only real damage I suffered was a bust in the power steering line. I managed to get the car home with no other issues. Question third: I'm going to take this thing into the shop Saturday. I've read around that driving with out fluid in the pump can burn it up. Is it okay if I'm going a mile or so? Or can any amount of time idling or no wreck the pump?
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Dec 25, 2015 05:37
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spog posted:I would guess that if things break, it is likely to be stuff like electric frippery that you can live without. Just an aside: I picked up an aftermarket heated seat for my blend-door-jammed Ranger a couple of weeks ago for about $30. Works well enough until I can rip into the dash, methinks. Safety Dance posted:Pelicanparts, that's what I was looking for. Rock Auto has some cheesy "chrome" things for like eight bucks a piece. Pelicanparts has the OEM piece. It should just push in, carefully. I pulled my kidney-grills off and sent them to a goon when my e36 died, they have (I think) 8 clips all around the circumference but they're not super-fragile. Somebody in Vegas give Centripedal Horse the Christmas miracle he needs already. Where's the paypal link? My GF got me a very imbalanced xmas haul and I'm feeling guilty-spendy.
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Dec 25, 2015 05:41
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tater_salad posted:If I recall it's a 0 something cobalt. e: nevermind, talked to him via PM, he has a 2004 Grand Prix GT. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Dec 25, 2015 |
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Dec 25, 2015 07:46
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2011 Subaru Forester with a four speed auto. 36,xxx miles. When going from reverse to drive, the car takes a second to begin moving and starts with a jerk. The auto trans fluid looks a little low. Where is the fill? Is it through the dipstick tube? The manual doesn't seem to say anything beyond "add more fluid".
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Dec 25, 2015 23:19
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Many automatics are filled through the dipstick tube. Are you following the directions in the owner's manual on how to check the fluid? Generally it needs to have either been driven a bit first, or cycled through each position on the shifter, and checked with the engine warm and running.
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Dec 25, 2015 23:29
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Yeah, I just got home and checked it running. It seemed okay until I remembered to start the engine!
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Dec 25, 2015 23:43
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CharlieWhiskey posted:I have nothing of value to add, but I love your truck Thanks, I love it too. I'm going to use the money to fix other, mechanical, stuff first. B4Ctom1 posted:From my wife, a formerly licensed adjuster and also an insurance customer service slave in a past life: I contacted Geico over a week ago now and still haven't heard anything. If I don't hear anything by Monday I'll call then see if my insurance can offer any help even though I do only have liability.
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Dec 26, 2015 02:09
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