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I have an airbrush. Just sayin'.
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Feb 13, 2015 22:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:That sounds a lot like the noise my Mazdaspeed3 made when it managed to get a rock jammed between the backside of the rotor and the dust shield. I had the same issue with my Accord, except it was fresh road patching asphalt. So it glued itself to the heat shield and I had to take the wheel off and flick it off. Thought the caliper was siezed or something else weird.
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Feb 16, 2015 18:54
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Getting A pretty loud creak in my 08 civic front suspension when I go over speed bumps or hit the bottom of an incline. Anything I should look at first? The struts seem otherwise fine other than making the noise. It is winter, but I am pretty good about clearin out any compacted snow from the wheel wells.
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Feb 19, 2015 18:42
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Cool I will take a look this weekend. It's a "REE-UH" sort of noise as the struts compress and release.
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Feb 19, 2015 19:09
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Be thankful he doesnt have a stab wound to go with his lost 350 bux I guess? (call the police, duh)
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Feb 20, 2015 18:10
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EZipperelli posted:So my buddies 2006 Civic EX started overheating at a stop. He took it to a mechanic who said he needed a new thermostat, water pump and serpentine belt. The mechanic then proceeded to tell him it would be $600 for the shop to replace all these parts. I told him to tell the shop to gently caress off, because he could get the parts for about $100, and I could do most of the install. Ive got an 8th gen civic. First thing to check is that there was a defective engine block issue in the early 8th gen civic, and it caused coolant loss and overheating. I doubt thats the case if a mechanic already checked it, but your friend could be in for a free engine if its still under the extended warranty that Honda made for the issue. Get a long rear end box wrench of the appropriate size, and maybe a pipe to use as an extension. Breaker bar will not fit, not enough width. Its tight to the left side of the engine bay. Hydraulic tensioner just requires you to SLOWLY push on it, and you will feel lit glide back as you apply more pressure. Just dont hamfuck it super hard out of the gate, lean on it an it will release but it takes a couple of seconds and you can damage it if you really push too hard too fast. Havent done a water pump on the car, but serp belt with 2 people should take about 15 minutes. Make sure you dont get confused by the routing diagram, I believe there was a routing change at some point early on in production. Do a little research. I bet the entire service manual might help  http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/manual2.html Krakkles posted:Pretty sure you have to replace the timing belt, not (specifically) the serpentine belt. Car has a timing chain.
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Feb 25, 2015 04:33
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Toyota Rav4?
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Feb 25, 2015 04:49
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08 civic EX (1.8l) Inconsistent clutch take up point (some launches are near-stalls, other are 2k rpm slips), "snaggy" shifts, and pumping the clutch pedal seems to make shifts smoother for a little while. Also, car is known for having a lovely CMC. Have tried to get clutch to slip in various ways, no slip whatsoever. It is schizo as hell, some days the car shifts butter smooth and other days its awful. Has to be clutch hydraulics correct? Fluid is full, going to attempt to bleed it when the weather is a little warmer. Currently the issue is annoying but not undriveable. But it certainly kills any enjoyment I get out of driving. I dont see any leaks on the CMC in the footwell. It creaks and pops a little bit when the pedal is pushed down. I am probably just going to order the parts from amazon to replace the CMC and slave and if the bleed fixes it, return em.
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Mar 1, 2015 17:10
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So I just bought a car, and it has winter tires on steelies with some stupid looking plastic hubcaps on them. I legitimately had to google how to take off hubcaps. Never had a car with them before, is that weird?
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Mar 25, 2015 01:48
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Wasps like ham, eh?
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Mar 26, 2015 03:40
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How difficult are tie rod inners on a FWD car like an 07 civic si? I went to get my new car aligned and they said they couldnt because the inner tie rod was damaged. Quoted me 260 bux to replace it, the part is like 20 dollars on rock auto. I just said gently caress that and paid the diag fee, then ordered the full set of inner and outer tierods from rockauto, might as well just parts shotgun the whole thing so I am not fixing it again later. From what I can see you might need some sort of fancy wrench to release the inner from the steering gearbox? PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Mar 31, 2015 |
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Mar 31, 2015 04:31
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Slavvy posted:It's a pain in the scrotum because of packaging issues that vary car to car. If you're lucky, you can just use some channel-lock grippers to undo/do them up: Awesome thanks for the pics and description!
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Mar 31, 2015 14:52
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Hey Slavvy/anyone else familiar with replacing tie-rod inners. 07 Civic Si. Can you take a look at this and tell me what the "unbend the lock washer" instruction means? The lock washer looks like a ring with a tab, are they saying to somehow destroy the washer by bending the tab out? http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/00/SNB6E00F00000057145KDAT02.html (click the little compass pictures for diagrams)
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Apr 1, 2015 01:38
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Sentient Data posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05XOhz67jGA is a great video that details the process. The process and reasoning are explained well, and the instructions are meant to be as generic as possible to apply to just about any car Cool, bookmarked!
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Apr 1, 2015 01:45
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GWBBQ posted:2000 Honda Accord LX, 2.3L engine. Clutch slave cylinder needs to be replaced, I have two questions. If you think that's bad, get the cmc out of an 8th gen civic. It's literally not visible from the engine bay without sticking your head in the area that the airbox once resided in. Completely tucked behind the shock tower area. I just got mine out, took 2 hours of pretty intense swearing.
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Apr 4, 2015 00:55
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Every car I have ever seen turn its compressor off at idle and start to overheat had a bad water pump. Especially late 90s Ford anything, I think my family had this happen to 3 various Ford truck/vans.
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Apr 8, 2015 02:42
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Safety Dance posted:Straight-cut gears? That's what I assumed as well.
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Apr 20, 2015 18:23
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It sounds like it's referring to a rally or touring car, both have super whiney straight cut sequential gearboxes.
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Apr 20, 2015 20:56
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One my 8th gen civic fleet (08 EX, manual, DARK RED, otherwise known as Rhonda Burgundy) sat for around a month in my garage. Weather has been very humid and weird here in MI, and being sealed in the garage may have produced a little extra surface rust on rotors/etc. Anyways, the reason it sat was I bought a new car, and I just finished slapping a pile of new parts on Rhonda in preparation to sell it. I replaced front pads/and rotors, in addition to clutch hydraulics and some other stuff that I had the parts for. I took it for a test drive yesterday, and everything ran great! However, when I parked it after 15 minutes or so, I heard a loud "heat" pinging sound from the back of the car. I checked the rear wheels and the right passenger side (note, I have not touched the rear brakes since I bought the car) was the source of the pinging sound. There was black dusty poo poo on the wheel, which was also unusual. My assumption at that point was that the caliper stuck on that wheel, probably related to surface corrosion and sitting a month. I waited 15 minutes, and touched the other side rear brake rotor. Cold. Touched the the one that had been pinging, still very warm. I want to drive the car for the next few days while I work on my other civic. How can I test that these brakes aren't sticking/going to stick again?
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Apr 26, 2015 14:52
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PaintVagrant posted:One my 8th gen civic fleet (08 EX, manual, DARK RED, otherwise known as Rhonda Burgundy) sat for around a month in my garage. Weather has been very humid and weird here in MI, and being sealed in the garage may have produced a little extra surface rust on rotors/etc. update: Took the caliper off, realized one of the slide pins on the bracket had seized. The dust boot had a small tear in it which probably allowed most of the captured grease to escape over the years. Replaced the dust boot for $1.20, regreased everything, reinstalled. Now I have to bleed the brakes because at one point I had opened the bleed valve to try to get the piston back in the caliper. Hopefully a quick bleed and I will be good to go. $1.20 and 7 hours of my life, lol.
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Apr 26, 2015 23:00
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My 07 Civic Si is turning off the AC compressor at idle. Doesnt "click" back on at all until car is moving at a decent speed for a few minutes. My first thought was overheating, but the water temp gauge is rock solid at about 40% no matter what. Popped the hood after a 30 minute drive that involved me sitting in traffic a lot, no crazy heat or signs of overheating. Coolant does seem a tad low, so I will top it off but I don't think that is the issue. Not sure where to look. Internet says it is an issue at times with these cars, and sometimes the dealerships can re-map the engine computer to fix it. But i wanted to rule out bad switches or some other bad electrical part. I am not super fluent with AC stuff, but I have a multimeter to test stuff. I am wondering if perhaps the aux fans are turning off at idle for some reason...
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May 6, 2015 21:09
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Good advice. I'll look at Ron Swansons thread asap. The coolant remark was just me double checking that the engine wasn't running hot, I've had several cars in the past that had bad t-stats or low coolant or whatever and the engine computer turned off the AC compressor as the water temp climbed. . But the car is definitely not overheating so your advice applies. Fans work, compressor definitely works. It blew prett cold air all the way home today, but I didn't sit in traffic very much. The few times I did, the compressor stayed on. PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 00:02 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 00:00
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I am a big hamfuck and I managed to strip one of the knuckle holes for a brake caliper bolt. Rear, 08 honda civic (obv discs). Bolt is about 2mm short of being tight, and now just spins. Other bolt is tight, but this allows the caliper bracket to move slightly, which makes a pretty damned loud clunk when you hit any sort of bump with that wheel. Looking to sell the car soon. Not sure if I should buy a helicoil or timecert kit or if I should just call a brake shop and see what they would charge me. Having never re-tapped a hole like this, should I just swallow my pride and go pay someone to handle this?
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May 9, 2015 17:24
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Motronic posted:Don't the calipers attach to a (removable) caliper bracket on those? You know, the one you have to remove to get the rotor off? Sorry mis-worded that slightly. The bolt (pin?) that screws through the bracket into the hub hole, which is stripped. The caliper is indeed mounted to the bracket, but the bracket itself can not be fully tightened to the hub now because the bolt is just spinning 2mm short of being tight.
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May 9, 2015 17:33
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On second look, it is indeed the bracket that is stripped out. Its a 30 dollar replacement (just the core, have to use the pins/boots from the current one). I just ordered it on amazon. Don't want to sell a car with dodgy brakes, that seems like a good way to collect some bad karma
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May 9, 2015 19:26
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2007 civic si. Can you guys take a look at this vid and see if you think my tie rod inners need replacing? I took it to get aligned and the mechanic said one inner was bad, but they both seem similar and don't seem to have the symptoms that people list online for a bad inner. The outer ones seem to be in pretty bad shape and I have the parts on hand. My first time fiddling with tie rods though. So I don't have a baseline to compare them to. http://youtu.be/2ZMumRAHDcI
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May 17, 2015 05:14
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Slavvy posted:That isn't how you judge if they're hosed. You need to have the car assembled with the outer tierod etc hooked up and a wheel on. Then you wiggle the wheel gently side to side and feel for play. If there's play there, you put your hand on the ball joint (or get a friend to watch) and see if the movement is in the ball joint or not. If it isn't, pull back the steering boot and see visually if there's play at the inner. It's impossible to tell if they have play when there's no load or leverage; pulling on it directly shows you nothing unless they're really, really hosed. Ok I will give that a shot thanks!
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May 17, 2015 13:26
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Regarding my tie rod questions on the last page, I replaced my outer tie rods since it was easy and I wanted to rule them out. Mounted everything up and tested for play by yanking on the wheels with a hand on the 3 and 9. No play whatsoever, seems butter smooth when I turn the wheels by hand. So I am going to leave the inners alone for now, which is nice because I am not sure I could replace them without destroying the boots. The boot clamp on the inside is buried inside the subframe to the point of absurdity. I guess when I do the job down the road I will buy a couple of extra boots  Thanks for the help, I read this thread religiously and almost everything I post about is the first time I am blundering my way through that thing...so I really appreciate the advice a ton. Now off to Pep Boys, to see if they can fit me in for a quick alignment!
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May 17, 2015 16:27
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Just dropped a bolt for my belt tensioner into my engine bay, drat thing is nowhere to be found. The space between the side of the bay and the pulleys is hilariously tight, and no amount of flailing around with my telescopic magnet from above or below is coming up with anything. Not really a question, unless I am asking for moral support in my time of need. Rough weekend for
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May 17, 2015 18:05
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Slavvy posted:Your AV is amazing btw. Hellbeard does excellent work :]
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May 17, 2015 20:31
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PaintVagrant posted:Ok I will give that a shot thanks! Update on this: after not feeling any play in the tie rods, I took the car in to get aligned, and they were able to align it with no issues. They said the inner tie rods are fine. Bums me out, because the original shop was totally BSing me, or misdiagnosed it pretty badly. Either way, probably not going back. Next project, loving AC issues. Sigh.
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May 19, 2015 03:58
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Civic Si 2007 My AC works fine, blows cold air for about 15 minutes of running. It then stops blowing cold air. If I turn it off for a while, it will turn back on and then run about 15 minutes again before the compressor turns off again. Haven't really had time to run all the various diagnostics that the AC megathread suggests. I was taking it into a tire shop for an alignment and I had them check it out. According to them, the relay is good, pressure switch is good, and refrigerant levels are good. They said the compressor has a "short" which is causing it to intermittently turn off, and needs to be replaced for the low low price of about 1000 bux. I still will check all the things they checked, because they aren't an AC shop and I don't trust their diagnosis fully. I will probably have another shop look at it as well. So, my list of stuff to check: refridgerant levels with rented gauges Are fans turning on and off properly when AC is being toggled swap relay again to make sure its not bad check pressure switch? Not sure how to do this but I am sure its in the AC thread or somewhere online Check clutch to see if its disengaging while not running A few questions: I read online about the clutch possibly being shimmed incorrectly, so the clutch is not engaging after it gets hot. A bunch of people in various honda forums have success with removing shims til the spacing is correct again. Is this a super hacky fix? I mean if its a choice between replacing a compressor or removing a shim... If I wanted to replace the entire compressor myself, could I take it to a shop who could remove all of the refrigerant, then I bring it home and do the compressor on my own time, and then bring it back for them to refill? I assume a lot of shops wouldnt play ball, but if I found one that would, am I missing something obvious that would not allow me to do this? Should I have posted this in the AC thread
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May 19, 2015 18:10
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Parts Kit posted:Here's an additional thing to try, the HVAC actually has a built in diagnostic check you can do yourself. Also FYI for some reason that site doesn't work entirely right in not-IE browsers. Oh poo poo thats awesome! Thanks!
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May 20, 2015 02:40
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Heh, vag-com
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May 21, 2015 17:22
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I have a buddy who had a 96, he bought it with like 130k and I think he put another 200k on it before retiring it. My parents have an 07 camry hybrid that has around 150k on it and besides oil, gas, and tires, the only money they have put into it was getting the batteries rebuilt at around 130k. Car still drives beautifully too. Its a total barge compared to those 90s cars though.
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May 22, 2015 00:01
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I asked earlier and I dont think anyone answered, but is it feasible to get a shop to drain my AC system, then I can replace the compressor, then they can refill? Or am I missing something obvious?
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May 22, 2015 21:08
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Motronic posted:Yes, you're missing the part where you have no way of pressure testing it and also shouldn't be installing the dryer until RIGHT BEFORE you vac and fill it. I figured as much, good to know.
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May 22, 2015 23:13
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Yousomuscle posted:Thanks for your replies! I weighed my options and money, and yesterday I spent ten and a half hours replacing all my pads, rotors, and my front calipers when I found the old ones had a torn seal. It took forever and I spent most of the time driving to and from the hardware store, and trying to get ancient rusted bolts out, but I'm really satisfied that I did it. Yes, I looked up how to bleed brake lines and yes I made sure everything worked on a quiet side street before I drove anywhere in it. It wasn't that bad! HELL YES SON Nice job.
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May 25, 2015 17:04
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The shifter in my 07 civic si had a lot of slop in it. Lots of movement even in gear. I swapped in aftermarket aluminum bushings for the shifter cables (where they meet the trans shift rods) and also replaced the shifter mechanisms base bushings. It tightened things up pretty considerably! However, I still have some play, mostly forward/backward looseness. At this point, to remove this looseness, do I need to replace a shifter cable or something? Could the cable be a little stretched? I dont want to swap cables, and its so much better that I can live with it as it is now, but it would be nice to tighten up if there is some sort of small adjustment I can make to fix it.
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Jun 7, 2015 04:19
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 06:56 |
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A/C questions, Civic Si 2007. Issue: Originally diagnosed as "AC compressor shuts off after 15 or so minutes of use". Now probably more specifically, the AC compressor seems to stay on for some brief period of time, then turn off, seemingly connected to the ambient temperature. Today was pretty hot, probably 85 degrees and humid. It barely turned on. Yet I have had other days where it would stay on and cycle and seem to work fine for 45+ minutes at a time, when the temperature outside was significantly lower. So I havent had a chance to really dig into this problem yet, mostly because I am having trouble finding rental gauges at the usual car parts chains. Autozone and PepBoys didnt have em, so I need to keep looking around. In my brief troubleshooting, I swapped some relays and it didnt resolve anything, so I am fairly sure the relays are fine. The aux fans are both turning on/off when they should, as far as I can tell. Compressor turns on (watch the clutch spin and cold air gets blown), fan turns on, etc. I plugged in my OBD2 reader and the coolant temperature of the car is reading correctly, well within normal operating temps. So the ECU shouldnt be turning the compressor off thinking the car is overheating. So, besides getting gauges and checking refrigerant, any ideas at what I should look at? Is there a temperature sensor or something that I should start at? Could my issues just be due to low refrigerant?
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Jun 19, 2015 00:37
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