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So I'm having a bit of an issue with my old Prelude. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRejqixiln4 When cold, the engine will fire up and run fine, until the key is released. When you let the key go, the motor dies. This usually happens 3 - 10 times each morning. It's not as bad in the video because I had the car running a couple hours before the vid was taken. Once it's running, it's fine and has no issues. I think I've ruled out idle components (IAC, etc) because holding the gas pedal down a little bit has no effect on whether or not it stays running. Once running, it runs great - not down on power or anything. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor are all a few years old, but don't have all that many miles on them. I've been DDing this car for the past few months - this just started happening this week. Car specs: 1989 Honda Prelude 2.0Si, 2.0L DOHC B20A5, automatic, about 133k miles. Anyone have any ideas?
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Mar 7, 2015 23:08
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Raluek posted:Probably the ignition switch. Do those still have a coil resistor? Could be that too, but I'd expect that to fail all at once, instead of intermittently. Thanks, yeah ignition switch is a pretty strong possibility, as I can't think of too many other things that would cause something like this. Weird that it only seems to act up when cold though. Went ahead and ordered a replacement, along with a new front exhaust pipe to replace the one that developed a big leak on Wednesday, plus a pair of O2 sensors because a 4 cylinder NA Honda isn't supposed to get 16 mpg. This cold and snow poo poo needs to go away so I can work on my loving cars.
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Mar 8, 2015 02:45
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Fart Pipe posted:Oh yea its still not running, hes gonna get it towed tomorrow. For the cranking I meant it sounded normal and not uneven like the timing belt had broken. He mentioned that it seemed like the fuel pump stopped working so the main relay would make sense in that case. Usually main relay issues show up as hard starting / no starting, especially when it's hot in the car (like sitting in the sun, etc). That's what happened with mine a few years back. I don't think I've heard of one that caused the car to quit once underway, although I'm not saying it's impossible. For my old Prelude at least, normal behavior when you turn the key to run (but not all the way to start) the engine light will come on for a few seconds while the pump primes, then shut off. In fact, look at the video I posted ITT a few days ago for how it's supposed to act (minus the wonky starting, obviously). I wouldn't imagine a Del Sol to be much different. I don't remember the details, but I do remember the engine light behaving differently when my main relay had poo poo itself. And yes - the car will crank all day even if the main relay has gone tits up. The only times it truly left me stuck were when the main relay went bad, and the time the electrical plug wiggled its way out of the alternator somehow while I was driving.  I thought my alternator had taken a poo poo, because all of the electrical stuff started to deteriorate, and then a mile later the motor quit.
Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Mar 10, 2015 |
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Mar 10, 2015 03:17
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I'm planning on doing an intake manifold gaskets / oil separator / full PCV system replacement on my 840 this spring, and was thinking I'd like to have my injectors checked and cleaned while I was in there. It looks like there are a number of companies offering injector services. Has anyone had this done? Who did you use? How was your experience? I've found prices so far ranging from $12 - $22 per injector, but aside from the price they seem to be offering the same services for the most part.
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Mar 29, 2015 20:37
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Memento posted:
This was my first thought too. I'd twist it in so you have lots of clearance, then carefully cut with a cutoff disc just behind the hosed thread, then back it out and clean it up. I might try putting a pick or something in the bottom thread just behind that big chunk of metal and tapping it with a hammer first - maybe you can dislodge that chunk of mess on the end and see what the thread looks like underneath. Maybe it can be cleaned up as it sits, without shortening it. e: I originally assumed that is metal that was ripped off of the eyepiece when they yanked it out (as opposed to the actual screw itself mangled beyond recognition) but now I'm not sure...it's kind of hard to tell. If that's all screw, (  ) then yeah, cutting as described above is probably your only realistic option.
Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Mar 29, 2015 |
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Mar 29, 2015 23:12
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surf rock posted:I appreciate the advice, but I don't know what you're talking about. I think I'm stuck spending half of my savings account on a tow and another mechanic. Do you have a harbor freight near you? They have coupons all over the place for a free multimeter. Just google for one that hasn't expired, print it out (or bring it up on your phone even), head over there and cash it in. It's not fancy, but it'll tell you what you need to know. After that, park the car with the hood popped open, and leave it for 1/2 hour (some cars stay "awake" for a little while after you shut them off, and / or have security systems that will wake up when they sense that the hood has been opened, hence why you want to pop it open first). Once that's done, set the meter to read mA, and attach the probes to the battery terminals. You will probably have some kind of current reading at this point, assuming the battery is not stone dead already. Once you have this set up, start pulling fuses one by one and looking at your meter, until you pull one that causes the current to drop to nothing. Bingo, there's your problem circuit. At that point, you can research what systems, etc. are on that circuit, and if they are noncritical ancillary systems (like dome lights or cruise control, or something) and you are SURE that nothing important is on there (brake lights, etc) you can just leave the fuse out if you're so inclined. If you're lucky, and are feeling up to it, you may be able to google up a service manual containing wiring diagrams for your car and start hunting for it.
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Mar 31, 2015 01:04
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Cracked knock sensors should be replaced as a rule, even if the car appears to be behaving itself and not throwing any codes, right? Because guess what I found when I pulled the intake manifold off of the 840 to do the gaskets today. It's not just one either, it's all loving four of them.  I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but gently caress 
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Apr 12, 2015 23:51
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 Does anyone know what this type of fastener is called? It's a one-time use washer type thing that appears to press on and secure to the post in the center, but when you go to remove it the little tabs formed by the partial cuts in the metal dig in to the plastic, making it necessary to break the metal to get it off. If it matters, these are securing a heat shield to the washer fluid reservoir in my BMW. I need to replace some and don't know what to search for.
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Apr 18, 2015 22:11
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Slavvy posted:They're called clamping washers. Thanks - I figured it was probably something obvious  Now to see if anybody around here has any.
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Apr 18, 2015 22:45
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Safety Dance posted:I did this. Aside from taking it to a body shop, maybe an auto body dolly set? I own one, but am massively unskilled and haven't had much luck with it. It would certainly be a better option than using a bare hammer on it at least.
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Apr 20, 2015 04:38
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Geoj posted:Yes. They are constantly putting out coupons for this one as well. I picked up a few a couple years back for $3.something each with coupons just to keep them around, although I have a pair of the desulfating chargers I use pretty regularly. The "desulfating" thing might be a gimmick (or maybe there is something to it) but they seem to work pretty well.
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Apr 26, 2015 04:46
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loinburger posted:Thanks, I'll let him know that somebody else had luck with a pulley system - I was concerned that he'd spend a bunch of time setting it up only to have it not work. Harbor Freight sells a few different cheap hand winches. Mount to somewhere sturdy, rig up a pulley overhead, done and you'd be all-in for under $30. Downside is, you'd need a place to mount the winch and pulley. Winches Pulleys, including a thing that is apparently for hanging deer (?) that looks like it'd be perfect
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May 1, 2015 03:24
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LeeMajors posted:To preface: I am very anti-dealership when it comes to repairs/service. I'd go to the specialty place, honestly. When you think about it, the dealer can do poo poo work all day every day, racking up an 80% comeback rate, and they'll still be there in the morning because they are backed by [insert manufacturer here] and on top of that, are the only place anyone who needs warranty / recall work performed can go when needed. They are also the default car fixit place for people who don't know poo poo about cars and think that it'll explode if they don't go to the FACTORY CERTIFIED OFFICIAL [BRAND] MECHANIC. No matter how badly they cock things up, there'll always be a waiting list of customers (to a point of course - if they're TREMENDOUSLY lovely, I'm sure Corporate would start getting involved). Source - I worked at a Chevy dealership for a summer in college. I was only a lowly service porter, but saw some poo poo during my time there. If the specialty shop operated this way, they'd be gone in a week. In other words, they rely on positive reviews / word-of-mouth advertising from happy customers to keep their doors open. They are also less likely to charge $assrape prices for parts / hourly labor.
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May 21, 2015 00:14
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spog posted:http://www.amazon.com/Buttons-Remote-Shell-Lexus-Inside/dp/B005PSPD22 Careful if you end up having to drill it. I had to do something similar a few months ago (not with a key fob though). I didn't count on the teeny screw heating up and melting the poo poo out of the plastic. It doesn't take much drilling to get the screw stub hot enough to liquify all the plastic surrounding it.
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Jul 14, 2015 00:21
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porkfriedrice posted:Yeah it's belt driven, that's why my first thought was fan clutch. Sometimes there's an aux electric fan in addition to the belt driven one that kicks on when the AC is running or a temp sensor tells the ECU that more cooling is needed (my BMW has this type of setup). I would look for additional fans mounted up in front of the condenser before throwing parts at it.
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Jul 25, 2015 05:27
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Mr.Bob posted:Ok guys, I need your help. I have an '93 honda del sol, and the little bushing that is attached to the clutch pedal that pushes the button on the clutch engagement switch crumbled and now if i want to start the car I have to stick my arm way up there while laying on my back. My question is where can i get a replacement, I don't even know what that little guy is called so I don't even know where to start to look. I checked my local pars stores and they had the switch, but no info on the bushing. I have heard about people taping stuff to the place where the bushing goes but I don't see how, I can barely get a slim finger in there. any help would be much appreciated. You can typically get this kind of stuff from dealerships still. I had to get a part just like this for my '89 Prelude last year, except in my case it was the rubber plug that held down the brake light switch when the pedal was at rest. In fact, I bet it's the exact same part. Part #23 I'm guessing? It's listed at $1.75 online, although that's probably not very accurate.  http://www.majestichonda.com/order-parts.htm I can't link right to it but just put in your car details and look under "pedals"
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Aug 7, 2015 21:09
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So, in a couple months or so, my mom is going to be getting a new car. Once that happens, she's giving me her old minivan. Also, at around the same time, it looks like I may be able to get my Trans Am back, which is about 60 miles away from where the van is. I currently live about 700 miles from both. Ideally, I'd like to use the van to tow the Trans Am here, but am having trouble figuring out how to do this without killing myself or the van. I don't want to come back and drive the Trans Am up another time, because it has a brand new motor in it that hasn't been broken in yet. I don't want to turn my new motor into an oil burner due to improper break in driving it up here. This would be on mostly flat ground, although I will hit some elevation changes along I-80 going through Pennsylvania. I'll be heading from Detroit area to Long Island, NY. Van: 2005 Honda Odyssey EX-L, about 165k miles Curb weight: ~4500 lbs Tow rating: 3500 lbs, assuming all of the following: PS cooler, trans cooler, weight distributing hitch, and a braked trailer (currently has none of these) Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA Curb weight: ~3500 lbs I can install a trans / PS cooler, along with a hitch, on the van when I'm at my parents' place. That part isn't a big deal. The problem is running afoul of the weight rating. I thought of disconnecting the driveshaft and flat towing it, but there's apparently nowhere to hook a tow bar on a 3rd gen F-body, so that's out (plus I think the car is too low for it anyway). Budget and Penske both have braked car dollies, but will only rent them to you if you rent one of their moving trucks to pull it. So, that's out too. U-Haul has tow dollies for rent separately, but they are unbraked - plus, they have to approve your tow combo before agreeing to rent you anything. If their online configurator is any indication, they won't approve this one because (I'm assuming) the total weight exceeds the tow rating of the van. Full flatbed trailer with brakes is not even close to being an option, again due to weight. I can't seem to find any more rental places that will do one-way rentals for this kind of thing. So, right now, it looks like my best option would be to buy a tow dolly with electric brakes (about 550 lbs) plus all that other poo poo, set up the van for towing, tow it up here (with the driveshaft disconnected), then sell the trailer slightly used. This will have me exceeding the tow rating of the van by about 500 lbs, which I hope to offset by installing the biggest fuckoff trans cooler I can fit in there, plus not driving like an rear end. I've never actually had to tow anything before though, so have no real experience with this. I don't know how much of a vehicle's tow rating is CYA poo poo by the manufacturer (I'm assuming they're extremely conservative), or how much the rating can be exceeded before hitting "you are going to die or break something if you attempt this" territory. So, I'm basically just posting this as a sanity check. Does this sound like a stupid idea? The stupidest idea? Maybe somewhat reasonable?
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Apr 13, 2018 04:24
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Deteriorata posted:Rent a UHaul to tow the van, then tow the Trans Am behind the van. I thought about trying to use the trip for the break-in, although that would probably more than double the length (time wise) of the trip. I'm still considering it as an option, although it's not one I find particularly appealing. I don't have explicit break-in instructions yet, although I do know that long highway trips are just about the worst thing you can do with a brand new motor. For reference, this is a SBC built into a (fuel injected) 383 stroker. I may be able to enlist a friend to help, if I can find someone who's not doing anything for a few days and is available on relatively short notice (this part might be tough). Sadly, I don't have any very AI friends out here who would "get it", plus they have wives that wouldn't be too keen on the idea, so it might be kind of a tough sell. I really don't want to have it shipped, because I've heard nothing but horror stories about auto shippers, and this car will have a number of somewhat pricey go-fast parts on it that I'd rather not go missing en route. And, uhh, the tires on the car are probably ~15 years old. That said, it's been stored indoors for the last ~12 years or so on stands, so they haven't been out in the sun this whole time, at least. I'm not sure I'll have time to get them swapped out before the trip, which is another reason I didn't really want to actually drive it here. If there's no way the towing thing will work, I might have to get creative.
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Apr 14, 2018 02:49
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So, after being in my current house for the last ~12 years, I am being forced to move unexpectedly, which means that I have to get as much of my hoopty fleet running as I can. Not much can be done for the Subarus at this point, but I am trying to resurrect my old truck. It's a 2003 Escalade AWD, with the LQ9 6.0L V8. Has about 190k on it. It was running perfectly when I parked it, but has been sitting in my driveway for the last 4 years. After replacing the battery, draining out the old gas and adding 5 gallons of new (plus some unrelated other stuff), I've been able to get it running, but only on 4 cylinders - the driver's side bank is completely dead. When I pull the plugs going to the coils on the driver's side, there is no change in engine idle, but pulling any of the ones on the passenger side causes the idle to noticeably change. When it is running, it idles rough and throws a CEL. The codes are P0171 "System too lean bank 1" and P0300 "random / multiple cylinder misfire detected". Fuel trims are through the roof on this side as well, but appear relatively normal on the passenger side. Reading about this indicated that the intake manifold gaskets are a known weak spot with these, and could cause this type of problem, so I replaced the IM gaskets (both sides) and knock sensors yesterday. Unfortunately, this didn't fix it. I've also read that a plugged up cat can cause this, but I don't think this is the case because it was running perfect when I parked it. My next thought would be to replace the front O2 sensor on the driver's side. Anyone have any other ideas on things to check?
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Jul 14, 2019 21:20
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STR posted:The O2 sensors aren't used when it's cold. I was reading up on this and saw posts elsewhere stating that replacing an upstream O2 sensor on the affected bank fixed this type of problem, but now that I think about it I believe that was on cars that were already up to temp, so good call on that. I will try examining plugs / swapping coils whenever I'm able to work on it next. I was going to investigate grounds as well, as soon as I can find exactly where the ground is for the driver's side injectors / coils. I've been looking around for rodent damage, but haven't found anything of the sort. This truck is a horrible rustbucket though, so it wouldn't surprise me to find a rotted ground wire connection somewhere, although I haven't seen any suspicious dangling wires or anything yet.
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Jul 15, 2019 04:44
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Motronic posted:You can be assured that cars in open loop (cold) do not use the O2 sensors and unless they hit closed loop and fall on their face the upstream O2 sensor is not the issue. It actually does have a canned tune on it that I forgot about. One of these. So not totally stock GM, although I don't think this has anything to do with it. I'll ignore the O2s for now and concentrate on other areas. IOwnCalculus posted:LS engines (at least on cars) have a giant plug and sub harness for each bank of coils. It's not hard to remove a whole coil pack and inspect it on the bench instead. I didn't have enough time / daylight today to yank the plugs and check, but I was able to pull off the affected coil rail so I could bench test it inside. All harness pins are intact, and all tested positive for continuity in the right spots. No visible damage to this at least. I did find one wire under the hood with a bit of insulation missing, but the wire itself is still intact. I will have to research where this one goes. STR posted:The main ground is the PCM coil driver (there's also a chassis ground); the coils should always have +12V whenever the ignition switch is on. That page is great, thanks for the link. I'll have to drill through that the next time I'm really able to dig into it. Probably won't be until this weekend, but it's also supposed to be in the 90s, plus we have the remnants of Barry passing over us on Thursday which should make everything nice and humid, so I may end up saying gently caress it. I was reading that a single stuck injector can gently caress up the whole bank too, so there's also that to think about. I'll know more when I'm able to pull plugs. Colostomy Bag posted:I'm sort of betting on this actually. I have no idea where you live but I have a ton of chipmunks. If your car sat as long as you say wouldn't surprise me. Little effing bastards. Not many chipmunks, but squirrels everywhere. I haven't found any rodents (or signs of them) in this car yet, but a couple years ago I did find a small pile of acorns in the trunk of one of the Subarus. I don't have a noid light yet, but this is the perfect excuse to buy one. Ordering one tonight. Thanks everyone for the help so far. I'll be sure to post up the solution if I ever figure it out 
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Jul 16, 2019 02:11
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Autoexec.bat posted:Anyone know anywhere I can get either a leaf spring made or find a lightly used heavy duty leaf spring for a '97 Volvo 960? The usual ebay, junkyards and ipd ihave all failed me. Mine is pretty badly sagged. They can sometimes be hit-or-miss, but car-part.com is showing a bunch for the sedan and wagon, and even a few for the "self-leveling" option. Might have to travel a little ways or have it shipped depending where you are though.
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Jul 22, 2019 23:15
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Black88GTA posted:So, after being in my current house for the last ~12 years, I am being forced to move unexpectedly, which means that I have to get as much of my hoopty fleet running as I can. Not much can be done for the Subarus at this point, but I am trying to resurrect my old truck. It's a 2003 Escalade AWD, with the LQ9 6.0L V8. Has about 190k on it. It was running perfectly when I parked it, but has been sitting in my driveway for the last 4 years. So, update on this. After my initial post, it was suggested to ignore the O2 sensors and also that I get a noid light kit and some other stuff to start diagnosing this in more detail. So I picked up a noid light kit, voltage probe, and 4 spark plug checkers. However, when I went to try them out - the car now won't crank or attempt to start at all. When the key is turned momentarily (which was all it took to start, even when running on 4 cylinders) it just does nothing. If held a bit longer, most of the dash lights go out until the key is released. Very boring video here. You can skip from like 0:40 to 1:20 or so because I was just sitting there seeing if the security light would go out with the key in. Important stuff: Battery is new, and has been on a tender this whole time, but not connected to the car. I just reconnected the battery to make the video. After sitting for the last 4 years, the truck was running (on 4 cylinders) a month ago, now will not turn on at all. Yellow security light comes on when you try to crank it, and stays lit even when key is removed. Does this with both keys. Parking lights / taillights come on now when you try to start it, and remain lit after key is removed  I've tried the 30 minute security relearn procedure but the security light just stays lit forever. It doesn't go out after 10 minutes with the key turned to "run" like it's supposed to. I gave up after waiting 20 or so minutes. One odd thing I noticed - if you hit the "lock" button on the driver's door, it used to ding a couple times and then lock the doors a few seconds after the door was shut. Now it doesn't do anything. I've checked everywhere I could see for rodent damage, chewed wires, etc. but have found no signs of critters. I've tried checking grounds, but don't know exactly where they all are so I probably missed some. I did read about one that tends to rot out on the back of the engine block, which I checked and found to be intact. Based on all of this - my thoughts are that the BCM is making GBS threads itself. Looking around online seems to show this as a fairly common problem. Anyone have any other ideas?
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Aug 23, 2019 00:45
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STR posted:Do the full 30 minute relearn instead of 10 minute; if there's a VATS issue, GMs pretty much always need the full 30 minute relearn after a battery disconnect; the light won't go out after 10. And you need to shut the ignition off after the security light goes off, wait 5 or 30 seconds with the key in the off position, then attempt to start (don't touch any pedals when you attempt to start). The security light will almost always stay on for a bit after removing the key if VATS is being a dick. My first thought was passkey as well, but the weird thing is it sat around for 4 years with a stone dead battery, but fired right up (ish) after bringing in a new one and replacing the lovely old gas. If it is just the passkey system, it's weird that it's loving up now instead of when I first tried resurrecting this beast. That said, looking at the procedure I dredged up online, the 30 minute relearn appears to be done in 10 minute segments (turn key on, wait 10 mins, light goes out, cycle key, repeat 2x more) which is what I was attempting. Although, I don't remember if I had the door shut or not. The hood was definitely open. Couldn't hurt to give it a shot doing the entire 30 mins at once though, I'll try that this weekend (with the doors and hood definitely shut this time).I pulled the BCM and opened it up to see if there was anything obviously fried or otherwise amiss in there. It looks brand new, aside from some evidence of spiders with a lovely taste in living quarters.
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Aug 23, 2019 01:46
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STR posted:The 10 minute relearn works if the battery hasn't been disconnected AND the ignition switch is only a bit out of spec. Otherwise it takes the full 30 minutes of being on. OK, good to know. That's definitely something to try out then. I'll do that if I get some time this weekend. According to the pdf I linked above it's got Passkey III or III+. I have the roundish head keys on the bottom right of the diagram. I have two keys for the truck, both of which behave the same way. Somewhat related, does anyone know if there is a fancy scan tool out there that will spit out error codes related to the GM immobilizer systems / BCM within a couple hundred bucks? I seem to recall seeing something like this (on Youtube maybe?) that looked like a ruggedized tablet type thing but don't remember specifics.
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Aug 23, 2019 03:02
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STR posted:The 10 minute relearn works if the battery hasn't been disconnected AND the ignition switch is only a bit out of spec. Otherwise it takes the full 30 minutes of being on. Tried this today with all doors shut. I turned it on, and left it for over 40 minutes. The security light was on solid the whole time - not even a flicker. The relearn procedure, for whatever reason, isn't working. I also noticed that the power locks don't work anymore, and the headlights / taillights came on and stayed on the whole time I had the car turned on. When I pulled the keys out, the parking lights and taillights stayed on until I disconnected the battery about 15 minutes later. I don't know what's going on, but am throwing in the towel. Probably will have it towed to a shop on Monday as I have to be out of this house ASAP and can't continue to work on it. Thanks everyone who replied for the suggestions.
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Aug 25, 2019 02:14
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Crankit posted:I have a 2002 Renault Clio 1.4 16V, it had a problem where it wouldn't start, it'd click but not turn the starter. I went and checked all the fuses with a multimeter, cleaned some corrosion off one of the fuses and now it starts, HOORAY! This sounds dumb, but with some cars if the battery indicator light in the dash is either burned out or missing, the alternator won't charge. That example is for a Subaru, but I seem to recall some GMs were like this as well. Something to check at least.
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Aug 25, 2019 21:25
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