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What cheap MIGs should I be looking for on Craigslist? I have access to a 240v 50a socket in addition to the regular 120v.
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# ? Apr 27, 2024 14:44 |
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Could someone explain to me what the 1/2 button does and after the 22 setting there's a little screw symbol, what does that one do? http://i.imgur.com/AY8NVYT.jpg
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Nierbo posted:Could someone explain to me what the 1/2 button does and after the 22 setting there's a little screw symbol, what does that one do? "Drill". Meaning full torque with no clutch release. The rest of those numbers are amount of slip on the clutch. The 1 - 2 switch on the top are gears. It's on the lower setting now.
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Ohh I see. Thanks Ron.
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So the holes for a couple of the trim screws in my truck are stripped. What's the best way to repair a screw hole in sheet metal that's too large? Again this is a trim screw, otherwise I'd just step up a screw size.
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kid sinister posted:So the holes for a couple of the trim screws in my truck are stripped. What's the best way to repair a screw hole in sheet metal that's too large? Again this is a trim screw, otherwise I'd just step up a screw size.
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I've had good luck using a Chrysler(/Ford?) christmas tree style clip on a stripped wheel well splash guard
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heat posted:There is no dipstick, which is what makes it so strange. I guess someone could get a bit extra in with a tight fitting hose and being really quick with the bolt but why the hell would anyone do that It may have been serviced out of the car at some point. They laid it on it's side, stuck a funnel in it, and filled it up.
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Filled with the car at an angle would be my guess. They filled it per instructions, except the flat and level ground part. Or possible the posting the picture did that. One of them is dumb.
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More that likely it was filled through the VSS port or at a severe angle. You can't fill them outside the car unless the axles are already attached - the axle seals are integral to keeping the gear oil inside the gearbox. No axles = everything pours out. It won't really hurt anything except for a little extra wear on the synchros (mostly on 5th). The only thing that easily kills those gearboxes is neutral drops - a pin drops out of the differential and finds a way to escape through the casing if you're a fan of sick burnouts from your 140 hp Integra.
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Leasing a car stupid or brilliant? Got a new job and will require a car so I think I may do it... I have excellent credit so I can afford it but I am worried about at the end of the 3 year lease. Do people get hosed often by dealerships when trying to give the car back?
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If the job isn't 100% rock solid and the car is basically only due to the job, what about month-to-month car rentals? I haven't priced it out personally, but if it's only a small amount above the cost of a lease it might be worth it to look at the price difference as basically an insurance policy
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Sentient Data posted:If the job isn't 100% rock solid and the car is basically only due to the job, what about month-to-month car rentals? I haven't priced it out personally, but if it's only a small amount above the cost of a lease it might be worth it to look at the price difference as basically an insurance policy Month to month car rentals seems more expensive. Leasing a MINI only seems like it would be around $250 a month and I have excellent credit.
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But if the job goes away in two weeks you're gonna be pretty bummed that you signed a two year lease.
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Astonishing Wang posted:But if the job goes away in two weeks you're gonna be pretty bummed that you signed a two year lease. Listen to this man. At the very least wait until you've got your feet under the table before committing to a long lease. Or consider using your decent credit to buy a used car that you can sell if it all goes wrong without a big loss. A Mini is good for that - holds its value well and a slighter older one doesn't look like an old model.
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I've been on a bit of a home improvement binge lately, reducing clutter wherever I can. Now that the house is clean, I'm moving on to my pockets. There's one bit of bulk that I'm not sure how to replace - the key fob for my '99 accord. As far I'm aware, my phone doesn't have the capability of spitting out the frequencies to unlock my car (plus the idea of not being able to start my car without phone power sounds stupid). At the very least I'd like to upgrade from "key, keychain, fob" to a single key that has the fob in like the newer 2003 model does. Is this possible? Is there any preferred way to reduce the bulk of my keychain without losing the keyless remote for a '99 accord? Before anyone suggests it, I don't really see this as justification to replace the accord. She's a smooth ride, comfortable, and reliable. That said, if it's doable to mess with her innards without damaging her, I'm up for that. I'm not concerned about how this will hurt the resale value of a 16 year old car if messing with the car instead of the fob is an option. diadem fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Apr 18, 2015 |
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I seen after market flip/switchblade keys for cars that didn't come with them. I don't see anything specific for that year Accord, but I only looked quickly. Maybe you can cannibalize a key into a blank key if you're handy with electronics.
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Uthor posted:I seen after market flip/switchblade keys for cars that didn't come with them. I don't see anything specific for that year Accord, but I only looked quickly. Maybe you can cannibalize a key into a blank key if you're handy with electronics. DYI is not a horrible idea. I mean, I know how to program a standard transponder and fob. That's $80 for parts. Once programmed I can strip them out of their casing. I've got access to 3d artists and a 3d printer to make a new casing that can fit with a blank car key. Then all that's left is having a locksmith copy the original car key.
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![]() 2006 Honda Pilot Sorry for the kind of blurry photo. I went for a drive on the highway and I kept hearing this rattle. When I got home, I looked underneath my car and found this part that I'm pointing to flopping up and down. Does anyone have any idea what part this is?
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It's a heat shield for the exhaust. They're a common thing to fail like that on loads of cars, and yes, it's a very annoying reverberation. Can you see any rough holes in it where it's pulled away from its mounting points? A lot of the time, you can just use a large washer at each fastener to get it firmly attached once more, even if it's torn free.
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![]() Does anyone know what this type of fastener is called? It's a one-time use washer type thing that appears to press on and secure to the post in the center, but when you go to remove it the little tabs formed by the partial cuts in the metal dig in to the plastic, making it necessary to break the metal to get it off. If it matters, these are securing a heat shield to the washer fluid reservoir in my BMW. I need to replace some and don't know what to search for.
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They're called clamping washers.
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InitialDave posted:It's a heat shield for the exhaust. They're a common thing to fail like that on loads of cars, and yes, it's a very annoying reverberation. Can you see any rough holes in it where it's pulled away from its mounting points? A lot of the time, you can just use a large washer at each fastener to get it firmly attached once more, even if it's torn free. I thought it was the heat shield too, thanks for helping me confirm it. Looks like there's three points where it tore from, two mounts roughly where I took the picture and one more near the middle of the exhaust. I'll look into the washers, thanks. I took this in Thursday to get an oil change and they didn't mention this at all. Maybe they missed it? I can't iamgine that this happened in the last two days.
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Slavvy posted:They're called clamping washers. Thanks - I figured it was probably something obvious ![]()
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Black88GTA posted:Thanks - I figured it was probably something obvious I bought a pack of assorted sizes at O'Reilly's a few weeks ago for $5 or so. If you can bring in the original, or a picture of the original so the salesperson knows what you're talking about, all the better.
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mariooncrack posted:I thought it was the heat shield too, thanks for helping me confirm it. Looks like there's three points where it tore from, two mounts roughly where I took the picture and one more near the middle of the exhaust. I'll look into the washers, thanks. I took this in Thursday to get an oil change and they didn't mention this at all. Maybe they missed it? I can't iamgine that this happened in the last two days. By the way, the term for extra-wide washers is "fender washers" They look like this: ![]()
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I did this.![]() What's the best way to get it looking semi-reasonable? Unscrew the turn signal and bash the fender straight-ish with a nylon-tipped hammer?
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Safety Dance posted:I did this. Aside from taking it to a body shop, maybe an auto body dolly set? I own one, but am massively unskilled and haven't had much luck with it. It would certainly be a better option than using a bare hammer on it at least.
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Safety Dance posted:I did this. Assuming you enjoyed going offroad and want to do it again:
If you did not enjoy the whole trail thing:
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Honestly, if you plan to off road, just do what Royal said and rip off the plastic endcaps. It's going to get more scars. Otherwise, that's something a body shop will probably need to tackle, since the metal is creased (and I assume the paint is cracked). If the fender bolts on/off easily, you could always find one of the same color in a junkyard, but silver tends to be difficult to match.
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There are sets of fenders on craigslist pretty regularly - people are always taking them off to put on flat fenders. They aren't hard to remove and replace if you can find a nice paint matched piece. The turn signals couldn't be any simpler to remove and reinstall. Mine has a smaller dent in the same place, probably from a smaller tree ![]()
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A colleague is translating a text which has the following sentence: During competition, a car produces around 80 decibels. The distinct whining sound comes primarily from the gearbox (sequential gearing, straight screw drive) and motor. I'm trying to help her with the 'straight screw drive', but I'm coming up short. Any ideas?
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Dane posted:A colleague is translating a text which has the following sentence: Straight-cut gears?
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Safety Dance posted:Straight-cut gears? That's what I assumed as well.
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The secondary dash power socket in my 2003 F250 doesn't work with any adapter I plug into it. Here's the weird thing though: I tested it with my multimeter and it has proper voltage. Has anyone come across this before?
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Safety Dance posted:Straight-cut gears? Perhaps it's talking about the ring & pinion in the diff? So the ring would be straight-cut instead of beveled? Would that even make noise? Does that even make any sense? That's the closest thing to a "screw drive" I can think of in a modern automobile. kid sinister posted:The secondary dash power socket in my 2003 F250 doesn't work with any adapter I plug into it. Here's the weird thing though: I tested it with my multimeter and it has proper voltage. Has anyone come across this before? Maybe it's deeper than most other sockets? Or maybe the center pin is a little bit off-center? If it's not a mechanical problem like that, maybe it's got a terrible connection someplace, so therefore a high resistance, so with no load there appears to be voltage, but as soon as you try to pull current the voltage drops?
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It sounds like it's referring to a rally or touring car, both have super whiney straight cut sequential gearboxes.
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Dane posted:A colleague is translating a text which has the following sentence: I'm thinking that that refers to the differential, too. Though, to have "straight-cut" gears there, the pinion axis has to intersect the ring gear's axis. Older differentials actually used a worm-gear drive. Edit: in addition to the straight-cut gearbox, those things are pretty loud
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kid sinister posted:The secondary dash power socket in my 2003 F250 doesn't work with any adapter I plug into it. Here's the weird thing though: I tested it with my multimeter and it has proper voltage. Has anyone come across this before? Yup, that happened to me. Turned out to be the adaptor was slightly the wrong shape: the shoulders of the bit that pushes in were not sloped enough. (exaggerate: should have a triangle tip, not a square tip) It was just enough to prevent contact being made with the tip.
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# ? Apr 27, 2024 14:44 |
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PaintVagrant posted:It sounds like it's referring to a rally or touring car, both have super whiney straight cut sequential gearboxes. Sure, but where in a sequential gearbox do they use a screw drive?
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