|
Which Hondas have the glass automatic transmissions to be avoided?
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2015 21:44
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 05:09 |
|
|
some texas redneck posted:97-04 V6 models. As late as an 05 depending who you listen to, and as early as 95 on some models. Oof. Okay. So CR-V's should generally be ok? Looking for something like that, maybe an Accord wagon.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 19, 2015 14:21
|
|
|
Zesty Mordant posted:Hey car nerds. After giving my girlfriend some driving lessons in my manual trans 2009 Hyundai Accent, it's been buzzing occasionally. Never while in neutral, and generally only around 2.5k+ rpm or so in any gear, though it goes in and out. It's got about 70k miles and I've not changed the trans fluid to my knowledge. How much should I worry? Is it a rattle-y buzz? Sounds like an exhaust heat shield to me.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 25, 2015 22:19
|
|
|
Ashton posted:Here's a stupid question that will hopefully give me some peace of mind... How old is your battery? Sounds more to me like the cold combined with starting it without giving it time to charge back up killed your battery. Try jumping it.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2016 19:50
|
|
|
I have a 2005, it's definitely obvious if its a MPH or KPH car. Besides the speedo, the temp gauge has degree numbering instead of L/H, and the fuel gauge has a O for empty and a filled in O for full.  IOwnCalculus posted:The Pontiac GTO of that era could actually be manually switched between km and miles because they didn't bother printing both scales, maybe they pulled the same poo poo on the Vibe? If it were actually a GM product maybe, but its just a rebadged Matrix. opengl fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Jan 28, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2016 15:40
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:I have a KPH car with numbers on the temp but E/F on the fuel gauge soo? A Vibe?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2016 23:22
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:My clutch pedal stop sort of looks like a CO2 canister, and it screws into a plate and the end of it stops the pedals upward travel. The other end has wires plugging into it, what exactly do those wires do? Some sort of sensor to see if the clutch is engaged? 2007 Civic Si Probably for the clutch safety switch, so you have to depress the clutch pedal to start the car.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 7, 2016 20:09
|
|
|
Nierbo posted:Well I'm thinking about buying an intrepid and modifying it. So far I've researched that theyve got a 2.7l and a 3.5 but no v8, so if theres no supercharging kits out there, then I probably won't buy one. A na v6 isnt exciting enough I wh
|
|
#
¿
Feb 13, 2016 06:13
|
|
|
jackpot posted:Any other car I've owned I would've been fine with that, but how in christ do you buy an aftermarket to replace this? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120997342/Metra-99-7342-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121 
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2016 00:20
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I don't think the full warranty length transfers beyond the initial owner, though. Only if its a CPO.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 12, 2016 20:03
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:
This looks like your guy: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,2003,civic,1.3l+l4+electric/gas,1409879,electrical-switch+&+relay,door+jamb+switch,4360
|
|
#
¿
Dec 13, 2016 16:42
|
|
I completely forgot about that light. Forgetting features about my own car! ...because I never use them, but still. The only cabin lights I remembered were the ones at the front which are strictly toggle on/off.
|
Yeah I know that's a recipe for kaboom city from my MS3 days. Sixth was reserved for highway speeds over 60-65.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 6, 2017 19:03
|
|
|
I mean cruising along in sixth is fine, but I'd definitely downshift before attempting any kind of large throttle inputs. Also this could not be an issue at all on the ST, again just speaking for the DISI in the MS3/6.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 6, 2017 19:11
|
|
|
rscott posted:This is less of a stupid question and more of a stupid answer or a PSA: remember to put your car in park when you go to change the battery otherwise you will have a pretty hard time figuring out why your car will not turn over! No idea why I left it in gear but it took me a solid 2 hours to notice I still do this sometimes, just because I drive autos and manuals regularly and am in the habit of leaving the manuals in gear when parked.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2017 18:21
|
|
|
If you're selling, let the buyer run a Carfax if they want to.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2017 21:01
|
|
|
scuz posted:Last time I had to order anything off of gmpartsdirect.com it went pretty well. Needed a replacement fuel injection spider for a 4.3L Vortec and it was exactly the thing, arrived in tact and speedily. Pretty sure most of those sites drop ship from the same place anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2017 20:27
|
|
|
I did a dumb stupid thing. On vacation in the UK with a diesel Vauxhall Astra. Gauge was at about a quarter full. Dumped in around 15 liters of unleaded (Why is the god damned handle green like diesel is in the states!?) before noticing, then topping off with about 15l of diesel. Carried on because gently caress it we have places to be and it ain't my car. Hesitated a fair bit under load for a while, drove around 100 miles then managed to squeeze another 10l of diesel in. Ran better after this. Still hesitated under high load/gear but nothing awful. Stopped two more times and put 5l of diesel in each time. The car's running almost normal now. Drove about 250 miles now since it happened. Bullet dodged? Gonna explode tomorrow? We still have lots of driving to do.
|
|
#
¿
May 26, 2017 23:35
|
|
|
Gray Stormy posted:I didn't think this warranted it's own thread: I replaced the passenger side view mirror a few weeks back on my wife's 07 Jetta(Wolfsburg if it matters) without any issues. Fast forward a week or so to yesterday, when I replaced the drivers side view. Reminds me of this one I just watched https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rFfoBw-Tfs
|
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2017 07:04
|
|
|
Started the beater (05 Vibe) today and it was much loud than usual. Crawled around under it and the exhaust is broken before the muffler connection. Looked up some diagrams and its part of the resonator pipe, looks like this: Here's the whole system, it's the middle piece, 281-849  The pipe is broken at that flange at the back, right at the joint. Is this something an exhaust shop could repair, or should I order the replacement? I can get it for $70ish. The rest of the exhaust is in really good shape, I think the OE pipe is stainless. opengl fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Jul 15, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2017 21:49
|
|
|
Yeah it's a pretty clean split straight around the pipe. Really no rot whatsoever. I did check all the hangers and everything else looks good. Read something about it being stainless online, but who knows what that dude was talking about. e: here's an actual picture of the split double edit: looking at the picture I know why it split. last year that heat shield you see behind it came loose and was banging on the exhaust for a while until I zip tied it back out of the way. must have weakened the joint.  opengl fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Jul 15, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2017 21:57
|
|
|
Got it, thanks all. Will swing by the local exhaust shop after work Monday.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2017 22:07
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Yeah it's a pretty clean split straight around the pipe. Really no rot whatsoever. Went to the nice looking place near work and they quoted $150 to cut out the flange and weld in a new pipe in it's place. lol no. Gonna swing by the dumpy looking muffler place a little farther away and see what they say.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2017 20:18
|
|
|
Wickerman posted:Just get a slightly larger ID piece from NAPA and two ubolt clamps, then cut the flange off and fit that pipe in there. Probably... 25 bucks? Huh. That's so obvious I'm embarassed I didn't think of it. For some reason I had it in my head I needed to buy that whole pipe I linked earlier to make this repair. I do have an angle grinder and the finest HF death wheels which I assume would do a good enough job for the cuts. I'll see what the second shop says and if it's any more than $50 I'll attempt this myself. I guess I can't make it any worse. e: even easier: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds opengl fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Jul 18, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2017 20:25
|
|
|
lolllll the second shop wanted $250. the hell. Gonna cut off the flange and clamp a new pipe over it. Just need to find the right size.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2017 01:05
|
|
|
Final exhaust leak update. It's been nearly 100 degrees all week so I haven't been arsed to fix it. Went to the off road shop that always has muddy jeeps out front, they fixed it up for $60. Sweet sweet silence.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 21, 2017 15:36
|
|
|
AcidRonin posted:I've got a 2014 WRX. I'm going to be away for about a month and a half and I'm curious what I should do if anything for it before I leave. It's garage kept so weather won't be an issue but theirs nowhere for me to plug a battery tender in. My wife can't drive stick but she could certainly start it, and if necessary I could find a trusted person to come drive my car around the block every so often if that's a good idea. I have also read about not using the parking break due to the pads fusing, so should I chalk the tires? Also what about tire flatspots? Don't start it if it's not going to be driven long enough to get the oil up to temperature, it does more harm than good. Month and a half it'll honestly be fine. Pull the battery and put it on a tender if you want.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 25, 2017 18:24
|
|
|
Twiggles posted:The stats: Check transmission fluid level, and pull the codes. Definitely sounds transmission related though.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 1, 2017 06:54
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Washer sprayer issues I was just watching this tonight, sounds similar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jdx2TW78PNA
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2017 08:50
|
|
|
I know when I went from 18" summers to 16" winters with my MS3 it completely ruined the handling in terms of sharpness and initial turn in. Super mushy feeling.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 5, 2017 19:23
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:So the cold weather is moving in quickly and I have a place to store my 944, an old K-mart that is a car warehouse now. When I park it for 4-5 months, is it better to: keep the battery in there, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, or pull the entire battery out and bring it home? Don't start it unless you're going to drive it long enough to get the oil up to temperature (at least 20 minutes). You're just doing more harm than good.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2017 15:46
|
|
|
Ready to do some third hand diagnosing? Ugh. Wife's 2013 Elantra, 1.8 auto, 55k miles. She said while waiting at a light it starting shaking violently like it wanted to stall, and make a squealing noise. The shaking went on for a few minutes until the light changed, then she drove the rest of the way without much issue. There's also almost always been a tapping noise from the engine, sounds like a noisy lifter to me. It's worse in the cold, but it seemed pretty common with these engines when I did some research, and when the engine warms up it would mostly go away. That noise is much louder now. Increases with RPM. Looking this up just has a bunch of people getting new engines. It's under the 100k warranty still, and we're taking it in next week. The belt noise was the weirdest thing to me. When I had it running with the hood open all the belts sound normal with and without the a/c on now. She was not running the defogger when it happened.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2018 14:57
|
|
|
TheOrange posted:Also, still getting used to the new car but is getting sub-city mileage pretty much expected for a hilly region where I'm mostly putting in 2-3 miles daily? Last fill up clocked it at sub-20 as opposed to the 21 it has rated. Not a huge deal one way or another as I was accounting for spending more on gas but wondering if there's some key detail I'm forgetting here. 2-3 miles a day is nowhere near enough time to get it up to temperature, so yeah, your mileage is gonna be poo poo. You should make an attempt to at least weekly drive it for 20 minutes or more to get the oil up to temperature if you care about the longevity of your engine.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2018 02:28
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Ready to do some third hand diagnosing? Ugh. Wife's 2013 Elantra, 1.8 auto, 55k miles. She said while waiting at a light it starting shaking violently like it wanted to stall, and make a squealing noise. The shaking went on for a few minutes until the light changed, then she drove the rest of the way without much issue. Heard back from the dealer yesterday. The first call I got from a clueless service woman was trying to blame my aftermarket oil filter. She said they don't fit as well and can move around and the oil can go to different places and cause issues.  . Went back and forth 10 times before I asked to speak to somebody else as nicely as I could manage. Second guy at least sounded like he knew what he was talking about, initially said it might just be normal GDI noise, but I explained I know what GDI sounds like and this sure as poo poo ain't that. He admittedly didn't even look at the car himself yet, so he said he'd go check it out with another tech.Got a call a few hours later, yup, getting a new engine under warranty. Looks like the 12-14's had some kind of manufacturing defect. Details are scant, but whatever. They did ask for my oil change records, which I do myself but thank god I keep the receipts from oil and filters and keep a log of the date and mileage when I change the oil. They submitted the claim and will let me know once an adjuster comes out. I really hope they don't give me a hard time over the oil change records. e: found the TSB: https://static.superservice.com/content/pdfs/HYW/bulletin/CA/14-20-002%20%20UD%20Engine%20Knocking%20%20V2.pdf opengl fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Mar 15, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2018 15:38
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Yeah I was thinking the exact same thing. All of these little things breaking is going to lead up to something bigger. I'm really considering selling this car by summer's end. I don't want to deal with its future problems. I'm definitely going to try and talk my wife into selling her 2013 after we get it back from the warranty engine replacement. Just don't have confidence it'll be reliable in the long term.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2018 00:26
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I honestly can't remember what coolant I used for the MS3. I think I might've just cheaped out and gone with the green "all brands" Prestone. Pretty sure mine had pink stuff in it, I think the Zerex Asian would be the one to use.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 28, 2018 23:02
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:The one on my Roadmaster is pretty moist. They pop? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZZht5dfwE4&t=64s
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2018 04:28
|
|
|
Don't buy it. They have an engine flaw, they were manufactured incorrectly and the engine eats itself. My wife's 2013 Elantra has been sitting at the dealer for 2 months waiting for an engine, and they said it'll likely be mid-July if we're lucky before it arrives. That's how backordered they are from so many making GBS threads themselves. http://www.hyundai-forums.com/md-2011-2016-elantra-sedan-coupe/612233-canadians-engine-block-replacement-advice.html http://www.hyundai-forums.com/md-2011-2016-elantra-sedan-coupe/620282-hyundai-told-me-i-need-my-engine-replaced-new-ones-any-better.html http://www.hyundai-forums.com/md-2011-2016-elantra-sedan-coupe/380657-2012-elantra-engine-problem.html e: TSB:  
opengl fucked around with this message at 04:05 on May 2, 2018 |
|
#
¿
May 2, 2018 04:00
|
|
|
Action Man posted:Quick question: My wife's old 99 Camry did the same exact thing you're describing, it was air in the coolant system.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2018 16:16
|
|
|
Colonel J posted:I bought a 2010 Corolla, quite happy with it so far but the aux input is non functional. Basically the CD/aux button does nothing at all. It's not the button. I remember my mom's Prius of the same-ish age being really fiddly about the aux input. I had to hold down the button and press it a bunch and unplug and replug the aux cable and eventually it came to life and has worked normally since. Something to try anyway.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2018 16:52
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 05:09 |
|
|
Colonel J posted:Thanks, you've inspired me to fiddle with it some more and it wasn't the button. Looks easy enough: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GD9ja1Cg0XE https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-86190-02010-Adapter-Assembly/dp/B00FPV8JUC You can probably find it cheaper, google for Toyota 86190-02010
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2018 18:14
|
|