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The 3.0 M103 engine in my w124 is acting up. It's idling a little rough and bogs down and has barely any power for the first 80% of the throttle, but when I floor it it gets all it's power back and hauls rear end. I had to drive to work and back today alternately flooring it and coasting, which was less than ideal.. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?
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Jun 26, 2017 14:17
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Yesterday I tried to install an ebay aftermarket remote central locking system on my beater 6n polo. I wired everything up according the instructions combined with some help from google, and it doesn't work properly. When the car is locked, it works perfectly - press the lock button on the fobs and the unit clicks and attempts to lock the car, press the unlock button and the car unlocks. And that's as far as it goes - once the car is unlocked, it all stops working, pressing buttons doesn't elicit any response from the CL module or from the pump. Relock the car manually, and everything works again until unlocked. Does this sound like I hosed up to you guys, or is the module faulty? To my understanding, there is a "locked state" relay and an "unlocked state" relay in the unit, is it possible the unlocked one is just broken? I haven't really hosed around much with electrical stuff in the past. I've shamelessly stolen this picture from the clubpolo forums, I have the same setup on mine: 
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Jul 15, 2017 12:15
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Breakfast Feud posted:The only way to be sure is to test the lock function from the module with a multimeter. Thanks, could you explain what setting the multimeter should be on and what wires i should be putting it to? My only experience with electrical stuff is from high school 15 years ago 
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Jul 16, 2017 12:35
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Turns out the remote central locking module was bad, I've sent it back and they should be sending me a new one in the next few days. Thanks for all your help!
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Jul 20, 2017 10:40
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I've been offered a 1994 Citroen XM wagon that I want to buy for hauling stuff around in, but it doesn't have A/C. Assuming I could get hold of the OEM A/C system for the car, how much work would it be to get it in and working? Speaking in general terms of course, I don't expect it's a job many people have done on XMs before
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Aug 28, 2017 17:45
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Thanks for the answers guys! I asked a couple of Citroen nerds I know and they said that even with a donor car it's a bit of a ballache. I may pass on it and wait for one with aircon. This one probably isn't going anywhere for the time being so I can always change my mind.
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Aug 28, 2017 20:28
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A 2-inch flake of paint came off my W124's valve cover and it is irritating the poo poo out of me as the rest is perfect. I can't find a matching high temp paint. Can I get away with a splash of regular paint or is that stupid? If i have to I'll take it off and repaint it, but 
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Oct 25, 2017 15:03
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What are the chances of you getting stopped/being in an accident in the 10kms from your place? I would just drive it (being extra careful of course)
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Dec 2, 2017 15:05
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What will I gently caress up, and how badly, if I leave a car untouched in my garden over winter (outside of the battery)? It gets to about -10/15C here. A great deal has popped up but I'm all out of storage space and won't be able to do anything with it until spring anyway.
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Jan 10, 2018 22:55
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I'm going to be out of the country and would pull the battery and leave it in my garage, and I don't trust anybody within reasonable distance of me to hook up a battery without getting it wrong. I was mainly wondering if it would gently caress stuff like rubber components, or cause undue rust. On further reflection, I guess it's better off sat like that than cars that are used in winter, so I think I'll pull the trigger.
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Jan 12, 2018 15:49
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e:nm
Grakkus fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Apr 2, 2018 |
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Mar 29, 2018 12:25
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So I bought a... very dirty car that has been sat outside for a long time. It has the type of fuel filler flap with a lock in it, like this: It won't open. I'm 100% sure it's the right key, but when I insert it, it refuses to turn. This is kind of a bummer because it's quite hard to drive without petrol It's had some WD40 blasted into it but that didn't help. Is there anything else I can try, or am I going to have to drill it out?
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May 7, 2018 21:17
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Grakkus posted:So I bought a... very dirty car that has been sat outside for a long time. It has the type of fuel filler flap with a lock in it, like this: So it turns out this wasn't a problem with the lock. The inlet to the fuel filler pipe had corroded to the point where the mechanism in the cap wouldn't turn, which is why the key wouldn't turn either. Some simple tools and a bit of brute force freed up the mechanism to the point where it would move again: 
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May 15, 2018 15:50
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I'd second a LR recommendation. If you're worried about mpg, throw on an LPG conversion and forget about fuel costs!
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Jul 2, 2018 12:55
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I'm rebuilding an old Lancia's brake system and I'm having a problem with the brake master cylinder, which looks like this: (not my picture but my MC is identical) What would cause it to work normally on the mixed circuit (middle hole), including being able to bleed that circuit and use it to brake, but for nothing at all to come out of the front circuit (hole on the left)? I have disassembled it and replaced the seals, the internals all look okay, even the old seals didnt seem too bad.
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Jul 31, 2018 15:04
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Grakkus posted:I'm rebuilding an old Lancia's brake system and I'm having a problem with the brake master cylinder, which looks like this: There's what I thought was an adjustment screw going from the reservoir side into the centre. Turns out that it isn't an adjustment screw, it acts as a stop for the front circuit piston, otherwise it goes too far and the seal jams against other parts of the inside. Works great now!
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Aug 1, 2018 12:53
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Consider also that your parents generation, and their parents generation all survived without mass murder at the hands of their peers in rolling deathmachines. My dad's been DDing an 80s sports car of some description for nearly 20 years and he's been fine. I mostly drive 20-30year old cars myself and am OK too. Just don't worry too much about the dangers outside of letting them sharpen your senses when youre on the road. You'll be fine.
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Aug 11, 2018 15:37
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What are the chances of both front wheel bearings going out at the same time? My girlfriend's car is in the shop and the guy is saying that both need to be done. The car makes a pretty loud noise when driving over 25mph, that goes away when turning left, and stays the same when turning right. It smells like bullshit to me. The car is a FWD hatchback that has like 66k miles on it.
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Aug 14, 2018 12:29
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Fair enough, thanks guys. Never needed to replace a wheel bearing before.
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Aug 14, 2018 13:58
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GF's 2007 Peugeot 307 hatchback, 1.6L auto. After braking sharply, there's a fuel smell for a few seconds after which it dissipates. She took it to a trusted shop over the weekend on an unrelated issue but forgot to mention the fuel smell, and they looked over the whole car for her but didn't find or change anything that addresses the issue, so it's nothing that is immediately obvious. Any thoughts as to what it could be?
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Sep 6, 2018 21:40
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Does the spund go away when cornering hard in one direction?
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Sep 16, 2018 12:37
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Dirty/malfunctioning MAF? Can you try driving with it unplugged?
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Sep 19, 2018 09:56
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Never not post pictures of 80's french shitboxes! Is there no gearbox oil dipstick? Also look around your area for a DIY garage with a lift you can rent, theyre becoming fairly common nowadays. Would make your life easier
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Oct 22, 2018 07:43
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What methods do you guys use to free up seized brake pistons in calipers? I've tried compressed air and heating and a combination of both, but the last piston refuses to come out.
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Nov 9, 2018 12:51
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Dagen H posted:Plug the inlet hole with a bolt, loosen the bleeder nipple, then attach a grease gun to the bleeder and pump it full of grease. Messy but effective. Thanks - how do you get all the grease back out again? Won't any residual grease muck up the system?
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Nov 9, 2018 19:37
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MrOnBicycle posted:Cool, thanks. Annoying to have screwed up a 2 year old battery (no warranty), but poo poo happens. On that same now, how often do I need to move the car in other to not have the tires go wonky (unless that's a myth). They are pretty much new. I would have put the car on jackstands if i could but yeah. Car is standing on shingles, not a asphalt or concrete. I've left cars in the garage for a good 4-5 months before and the tyres didnt have any noticeable flat spots, all of my cars are fairly light (sub 1500kg) though. Motronic posted:When I get stuck with poo poo like this I usually use the old rear end transformer charger for 30 minutes or so so it has SOME charge in it and then switch over to the auto charger so I don't forget about it and cook off the battery. Side question, I did this except forgot like a dumbass and left it on the old rear end transformer charger for a good chunk of an evening, when I got back to it it was hissing. I haven't tried to hook it up yet, but it's probably trashed now, right?
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Dec 5, 2018 22:12
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Motronic posted:Maybe not. Is it sealed or can you open it and properly refill with distilled water? It's sealed - but surely that means the water won't escape?
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Dec 6, 2018 10:54
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Yeah, I'm dumb, not giving the gases any way to escape would not be good.. Oh well, financial mistakes are the ones I learn from fastest 
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Dec 6, 2018 18:14
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Especially in a Scandinavian winter.
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Dec 21, 2018 10:34
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Is it unusual for brakes to feel like they're dragging when you replace the rotor + pads? When I did them on my other car it didn't happen, but after replacing them on my old merc the wheel got noticeably more difficult to spin. I guess it'll probably go away once they bed in?
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Dec 23, 2018 11:40
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Putting the old ones back on, the car is fine again, so the caliper is okay. The parts are definitely the correct ones for the car, it just feels like the pads are ever so slightly too thick or something.
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Dec 23, 2018 15:00
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Grakkus posted:Putting the old ones back on, the car is fine again, so the caliper is okay. The parts are definitely the correct ones for the car, it just feels like the pads are ever so slightly too thick or something. Going back and double checking, it's that I didn't retract the pistons into the caliper enough. Whoops!
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Dec 23, 2018 23:11
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How do I detach the throttle cable here? Turning the tiny screw doesn't seem to do anything, but that could be because I'm using an adjustable wrench (can't fit a screwdriver into the space between the screw and the throttle body).
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Jan 28, 2019 14:23
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Grakkus posted:How do I detach the throttle cable here? I'm an idiot and turning the tiny screw totally does something. When it comes out you can pop the cable off easily. Thanks guys!
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Jan 28, 2019 17:57
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Can anyone see anything obviously wrong that would have caused coolant in the oil here? As you can see, the camshaft above the 2nd cylinder from the right has some milky looking oil, the head bolts from around that cylinder had the same stuff on them. I'm too much of an amateur to know if something is visibly wrong. All I know for sure is that when the last mechanic failed to fix this, he reused stretch head bolts, and one of the washers was put on crooked and is now jammed pretty hard into the head (no idea if either of these things could be a cause or not)    
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Jan 30, 2019 22:22
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A reflective triangle and a high-vis vest would be advisable. A small 12v air compressor to pump up tyres might also save you from having to change a wheel roadside, too.
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Jan 31, 2019 19:42
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I sent off a cylinder head for a refresh (pressure test, cleaning, skim, valve job) for the first time the other day, and got it back today. There are still visible carbon deposits on and around the valves. Is this normal or did I get screwed? I'm thinking of taking this to a different machine shop tomorrow for a second opinion. Or is this fine and I'm being ridiculous?      
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Feb 1, 2019 22:40
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Can reusing torque-to-yield head bolts cause head gasket failure-like symptoms? Or is it just a matter of not wanting them to break?
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Feb 6, 2019 17:25
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For the record, my questions regarding reusing TTY head bolts aren't about saving a couple of bucks I'm trying to figure out why coolant was still appearing in oil after a HG replacement performed by a crappy mechanic that reused the bolts (among other things, like refilling the cooling system with only water just before winter). There's evidence of water ingress between the gasket and the metal of the head which points me to it not being torqued down properly and/or the bolts being the problem.Sweevo posted:This is the BX right? If so then it's a Peugeot XU series engine, and the service manual says the head bolts can be reused providing they haven't stretched beyond a certain length. Personally I wouldn't do it though as the tightening sequence stretches them a LOT and for the price of new ones it's not worth the risk. Yeah, it's the BX. I saw that in the Haynes manual too, but as you say, risking it for the ~£15 a set of bolts costs seems insane.
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Feb 8, 2019 22:12
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 12:57 |
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Sweevo posted:Sounds like a bad repair - either a cheap gasket, or not fitted correctly, or the head not checked for straightness before refitting. As you say, the oil filler looked pretty alarming when I bought the car, but it would also produce a lot of white smoke from the exhaust when warmed up, and there was coolant in the oil. Supposedly he had the head skimmed (he certainly took money to have it done), but really who knows if he actually did. Motronic posted:It could be one or more of a bunch of things. Bolts of course, they may have/be working themselves loose. They may never have been torqued properly to begin with. The block and/or head may not have been cleaned properly. The head could have been warped and wasn't sent out to be decked properly. He could have mangled the block or head surfaces while cleaning. He could have over torqued and cracked the head. It matters because it's a wet liner engine, and it's not uncommon for the liner seals to leak coolant into the oil if disturbed. There's some corrosion on and around the liners, and if I pull the liners to reseal them and it turns out their seats are corroded, I'll most likely need to buy a new block and swap it in which I'd obviously rather not do if I can just leave it all undisturbed. Which is why I'm trying to figure out the likelihood of it being something bolt/gasket/head related vs the liners. Currently it's looking like it was the former, but I'm also not particularly fond of the idea of putting it all together just to find out I was wrong..
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Feb 9, 2019 21:23
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