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I finally bought new springs, struts etc for my car and am going to assemble them tonight, (probably in like half hour or so) and if I'm feeling frisky, I might install. Two questions: 1. Should I put something between the rubber-metal mating surfaces? Silicone spray lube? Dry graphite lube? 2. The Haynes manual (sorry guys its all I've got) lists in the procedure to mark the struts and steering knuckles so that you can put them back "close" to what they were, but thats for their procedure, which is basically take apart, put back together. I'm going to get an alignment done ASAP after this, but it might not be till Monday and I've got poo poo to do in the mean time. Is there any way to put it back together close enough that I won't gently caress things up too badly if I have to wait a few days? Car is an '09 Corolla. As far as I know the only adjustments are Toe, which won't change since I'm not loving with tie rods, and Camber.
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Sep 22, 2017 00:51
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Just replaced springs and struts last night. Holy gently caress what a nightmare. 7:30 pm - 4:30 am. But nothing fell off the car and the alignment went well this afternoon. The only hiccup was having to cut the swaybar end links at the front because I stripped poo poo. New end links are already on the way from cockauto. Questions: Should I retorque the suspension bolts after X km? Aside from a bunch of anti-seize, is there anything else I can do to keep the swaybay link bolts from getting seized the gently caress up? I was thinking of after tightening them down, I would put a bunch of silicone over the nuts/exposed threads to keep moisture out..... Waste of time?
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Sep 23, 2017 22:19
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Had to cut off my swaybar end links last week when I was changing my springs/struts etc. New ones are on order. How do I torque them correctly? They've got a nut and the threaded part, which is the ball and socket type thingy, has an allen head on the end of it. The only thing I can think of is to get an adapter down to 3/8" drive on my torque wrench and then get a 7mm allen head socket to turn the stud while holding the nut steady with a wrench, but that seems like a sure way to strip the allen head part of the stud, ensuring that I'll need to order new links yet again, should I ever have to take them off for whatever reason. So, what the goon should I do fucks?
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Sep 30, 2017 05:15
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Breakfast Feud posted:Have you had a look at the appropriate torque specs in the manual/online? A quick google shows the range is generally between 25-47 ft lbs. I did the end links on my first car before I really knew/cared about torque specs and I applied liberal amounts of loctite and used a big ol' ratchet till she was gutenteit. Yeah, I don't recall offhand what they are, but not that tight. I was thinking of doing what a previous goon suggested and trying to get the right torque by feel, or maybe just taking my milwaukee impact driver and just tightening the bolts that way. I don't want to use loctite, *just in case* I ever need to remove them, I don't woant to have to use a torch to remove them if I loctite that poo poo.
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Oct 1, 2017 05:53
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To add a bit to that, the DOT, as mentioned doesn't approve anything, it just sets out regulations that manufacturers are expected to adhere to. But they don't actually test poo poo, approve anything or otherwise tell you (a manufacturer) "yes this is approved".
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Oct 27, 2017 23:28
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Autoexec.bat posted:Only in the last decade? I've always though it hilarious that in the 90s the most reliable cars with a Chrysler badge were actually made by Mitsubishi.
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Oct 29, 2017 22:03
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ExecuDork posted:True, but the road is covered in snow often enough during the winter that having good winter tires on can be a literal life-saver. I had more than one night-time drive doing 50km/h on the 401, trying to stay in the tracks of a bus or a big transport truck and not get sideswiped by lunatics going faster than me nor rear-end cowards going slower than me (everybody else is bad, my speed is obviously exactly correct). Without winter tires those drives would have been impossible - and one of them was driving home to Waterloo from Pearson after being away for two weeks, I was eager to get home and I'm not smart enough to find a motel in Milton under those circumstances. Milton is pretty awful anyway.... I agree though, I was at my brother's place in London on Boxing day about 5 or 6 years ago, and had to Drive to my parent's place in Niagara Falls. Snow storm blew up and the 401, 403, QEW were covered. I saw plenty of snow plows going the other way, but the direction I was traveling appeared to be devoid of them. Though realistically, they were probably just way the gently caress ahead of me, and the hundred other cars that were in front of me. Even so, the highway was still covered. Glad I had my snow tires on, and they were actually pretty crappy (general altimax arctic).
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Nov 6, 2017 13:53
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spog posted:
Yeah, those north Atlantic storms can be a real motherfucker. Trip took about 3 and a half hours. I was planning to stop in Paris on the way, but those French bastards can be real cunts.
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Nov 6, 2017 14:13
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Godholio posted:How is that an 11+ hr flight? British made plane. They need a bit of coaxing to get going sometimes.
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Nov 6, 2017 17:18
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ExecuDork posted:I had a set of studded General Altimax Arctics for my BMW when I lived in Saskatchewan and they were the best tires I've ever driven on. I know, I use the term (improperly) interchangeably. They probably would be good with studs, but they're forbidden in Southern Ontario, and imho, suck without them.
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Nov 6, 2017 22:02
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How bad is it to weld a sway bar? I already know the answer to that: don't do it. But its not like in the middle of the bar or something. Its at the end. The hole where the stud for the end link goes through has a crack. I really don't want it to break and I sure as gently caress don't want to replace the fuckin thing. I'm sure the bar has some sort of voodoo heat treatment to make it flexy and whatnot so I obviously don't want to gently caress it up, but I figure if I use a die grinder to grind out the crack a bit to get better penetration on the weld, and then weld it a bit, let it cool right the gently caress down, weld it again and so on then maybe it wouldn't be so bad? I'd eventually have to grind it again to make the weld flush, not to mention get rid of slag (flux core) but I could use a file to keep it from getting hot and hopefully not gently caress poo poo up. Bad idea?
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Nov 8, 2017 13:22
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CornHolio posted:So the cold weather is moving in quickly and I have a place to store my 944, an old K-mart that is a car warehouse now. When I park it for 4-5 months, is it better to: keep the battery in there, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, or pull the entire battery out and bring it home? Do you have use of power? If so, you could probably either leave a trickle charger on it or stop by every couple months and put a regular charger on it for two hours or so. If you're going to stop by and run it every now and then (assuming you're allowed to) then I wouldn't even worry about taking the battery out.
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Nov 8, 2017 15:16
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CornHolio posted:I don't know if I'll have an outlet yet. I don't know if I want to leave my trickle charger there, though. Seems like it'd be pretty easy to steal. Yeah, I guess if you leave it in, disconnecting the negative probably wouldn't be a bad idea. Even poo poo like the clock draws a bit of power.
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Nov 8, 2017 19:58
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CornHolio posted:hah, the clock is one of the few things in this car that would draw power that I can think of, and it doesn't work. Still... would the battery maintain its charge over, say, four months if it's disconnected?
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Nov 8, 2017 20:05
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rdb posted:Perhaps it sucked it all through the PCV and burned it or maybe the leak only shows up while its under load at an RPM above idle with oil sloshing around. The man makes a good point. I haven't been following your quest, but have you checked out the air intake? Old Chrysler 2.2l engines were notorious for the
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Nov 12, 2017 01:48
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cigaw posted:2014 Hyundai Accent, ~38k miles Use anti seize. I usually run my caliper bolts back in with my cordless impact driver. Tighten them down, slowly then just a half second of holding the trigger down all the way. Your results may vary.... There should be a torque spec for those bolts, but you'd need a shop manual for that. Haynes manual usually has (mostly) correct torque specs in there. Keep in mind that anti-seize will throw that off. Like say if you use anti-seize and then torque to whatever spec, the anti-seize will act as a lube and they will actually be tighter than what your torque wrench tells you.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:47
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cigaw posted:Cool, thanks for the replies! There may be, but I am not aware of it. It would probably depend on if you're using copper or lead anti-seize, how much you use etc. Holy poo poo are they really supposed to be 60-75 ft lbs? The lug nuts on my old car had to be torqued to about 80 or so IIRC.
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Nov 14, 2017 22:56
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Skreemer posted:I have a 2012 F-150 FX4 3.5 V6 ecoboost with 65K miles on it. I've changed tires from the old version of the BFG T/A KO tires to the new version T/A KO2, I hear and feel (in the pedal) a slight whirring noise when driving. Is there a definitive way to test if it's the tires or a wheel bearing or something else with limited tools/space? If you jack up each wheel, and try to wiggle them, you might be able to find some play. Or you can try rotating the tires. Mine got rotated a few months back, there was a noise coming from the front driver's side. I changed the two front tires around, it went away.
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Nov 14, 2017 22:58
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2001 Probably needs an alternator. I charged the battery, started it, volt meter across the terminals and it was slowly drawing down. Unplugged the two terminals and unbolted the cable off the back, connections look clean. Is there any way to further test the alternator? Can I put volt meter or test light on the cable terminal at the back, and measure output or anything? Or is this a case for gently caress it, new alternator? Battery is brand loving new. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Nov 17, 2017 |
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Nov 17, 2017 15:22
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0toShifty posted:What sort of voltage did you measure? 11 point something. The truck has been sitting for a few weeks, I've been keeping the battery topped up about once a week, including two days ago. so it wasn't right at 12 point whatever.
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Nov 17, 2017 18:35
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HelloSailorSign posted:I've got a 2011 Chevrolet Equinox LT with 18" wheels. How old are the tires you've got? If you didn't have any problems, you could just get the same ones. Take a look at Tire rack, discount tire etc. and read reviews. Even if you don't buy tires from there, the reviews are valuable. Check your tire size, it should be on a sticker inside the driver's door jamb. It'll have a number like P 205 75 R18 or similar. That same number should be on thje sidewall of your tire as well. Don't get too concerned if the number isn't EXACTLY the same. The first number could be 215 or maybe 195 on your actual tire. A minor variance in width isn't a huge concern. Check out tires in that size on tire rack/discount tire for review. I'm a snow tire nazi myself, but if you only camp in snow for a few days or whatever, and the rest of the time you're in mild climes, all seasons should be fine.
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Nov 20, 2017 23:39
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Re-sealing a hydraulic motor. We seem to have run out of O ring lube. I usually use it on seals that have to be (gently) tapped in to place. Since brake fluid is pretty much hydraulic fluid, can I use that as a substitute? I've got some of that lying around from changing a brake caliper a few months ago.
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Nov 21, 2017 18:15
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kid sinister posted:What about the cable? How about the clamp? Could it be the oil pan gasket? Like you're driving, and the oil kinda sloshes to the back, sides etc as you corner and accelerate?
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Nov 23, 2017 14:45
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Whats the deal with Jalopnik vs AI? I see people posting links every now and then and being all "I know its juhlupnich, but check this out" or whatever. I get their articles in my email, and while occasionally there is one that is kinda crappy or boring I usually learn something, or at least get entertained for 15 minutes or so.
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Nov 29, 2017 20:49
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kid sinister posted:Welp, after replacing the RMS and lower intake manifold gaskets, my truck still leaks oil. I hate this truck. 1988 F150 5L. You think there could be a crack in the block back there somewhere? Are there any oil passages in the back of the block? Un-related, long shot etc....... But the hydraulic hammer on one of my machines had to be replaced last year (for 20 loving thousand dollars) and one of the issues we brought it in to look at, was a mysterious hydraulic oil leak that only happened when the hammer was activated. The rest of the time it didn't exist. When it was taken apart, the crack was obvious, but in the mean time, when it was all together, and hammer not being used (its bad to dry fire the hammer) there was no leak. If I'm not mistaken, the 5.0 blocks have been known to break in half. So a crack thats not leading to the inside of a cylinder, coolant passage might not be unheard of. I know, I know, super long shot etc....
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Dec 3, 2017 20:57
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DogonCrook posted:An oil galley plug might have given out or sucked in. Theres one below the distributor im pretty sure I think the ford small blocks had the distributor on the front.
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Dec 3, 2017 22:28
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Autoexec.bat posted:Any tips for removing a stubborn roll pin? I'm trying to replace the steering rack in my Turismo but all of the joints from the column to the rack are connected with slightly rusty and very hard roll pins. The pins are in a difficult to reach spot and I've been unable to get a good swing at any of them with a hammer. Drilling may be possible but it's in a super annoying spot. Hopefully the proper sized punch? If not available, I've *heard* that you can get a self tapping screw, screw that poo poo in there and hope that it doesn't break off while you try to pull it out with a claw hammer.
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Dec 6, 2017 00:16
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09 corolla. Wipers crapped out on me yesterday morning. Sat all day at work, and when I got in the car, they worked fine, "tested" them multiple times on the way home and no problems. This morning, again, went to clear the windshield and they crapped out. Lately, they've been giving me a bit of trouble. with working, but i've just had to hit the switch a couple times to get them moving. Until now. I know that in past winters, due to laziness, I've turned the wipers on, when there was a bit too much snow/ice on the glass, and when they didn't move, I'd get out and brush/scrape as the case may be. While the car was still running, and the wipers still trying to move (even though the switch was off). This is obviously hard on the motor. Soooo..... Is there a way to test a motor to see if its failing? Like too much/not enough resistance across the electrical terminals or some poo poo? I guess I'd have to know how much was normal resistance before I could tell what was too much/not enough first. What say you goons?
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Dec 15, 2017 12:24
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Godholio posted:Apply power directly to it. If it works, it works and your problem is probably the switch. If it doesn't work, well, there you go. I was going to do that, had it not worked this morning, but it did. An intermittent problem thus far. Breakfast Feud posted:Check your fuses first. Then it should be easy enough to use a multimeter and check if the wiper motor is getting power. Could just be a bad switch. Fuses should be good if they weren't then the wipers wouldn't work at all, and thus far they work sometimes and not others. My brother suggested I check relays. I might switch one with another and see if the problem persists, (or something else stops working intermittently). I hope its not the switch, it would probably be difficult to pull apart the steering column. Last night after I got in the car, I turned the key on and they moved on their own, without even my hitting the switch. I'll assume thats from when I kept hitting the switch in the morning. But that only kinda helps. Could the relay have gotten stuck in the closed position? Meaning (slim chance probably) that the relay is hosed? Thanks goony goons:V
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Dec 16, 2017 18:25
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Godholio posted:Actually it's almost certainly dead simple. Maybe a couple of screws for the plastic cover, probably just "snap-tite" construction. The switch is probably attached with ~4 screws plus the plug. I hope thats all it is, though I did replace the motor anyway. There appeared to be no relay for the wipers. I also checked on some Toyota forums, and a few people have had to replaced the motor, but not the switch. Also, I got my brother to pick up a new motor at the junkyard the other day, (and deliver it to my job site) and he didn't even take money for it. Said it was my birthday present. Hell yeah! Thanks bro! Now, I guess we'll see if the problem persists......
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Dec 17, 2017 22:21
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Josh Lyman posted:I'll be driving round trip from Atlanta to Buffalo, NY next weekend. This will be my first road trip in winter with my 2008 Prius. The front tires were replaced a few thousand miles ago, the back tires are still good, and I have a full extra wheel and tire in case of a flat courtesy of the junkyard. The oil was changed with Mobil 1 Extended Performance even more recently along with the coolant and filters. Any other prep I should do? In addition to what was listed previously, you might consider some extra warm clothing (wool socks, gloves hat), to keep in the car, small folding snow shovel, and some food. Buffalo can get totally crushed with snow.
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Dec 21, 2017 22:21
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kid sinister posted:My 1988 Ford F150 302 still idles like crap. It's been sitting in my driveway for an entire year now as I've been fixing all the leaks, plural. I finally got the really bad oil leak fixed, but it still idles like crap. It surges from 800-1000 RPM while sitting in my driveway and even worse when out on the road, often dropping low enough to die. Now I know I have old gas in it, but I'm still not sure that it's the cause of my bad idle. The front tank was at 1/4 tank so I filled it up at the pump, but the back tank is still at 1/2 tank of year old gas. My problem happens with either tank. So either my gas was so bad 1/4 a tank can taint 3/4 a tank of new gas, or I got another problem. Lack of fuel? Does the fuel pressure change depending on engine speed/load? Like more throttle increases fuel pressure, and it can shove more fuel through an obstruction in the line?
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Dec 26, 2017 01:48
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kid sinister posted:
Yeah, thats probably a fitting where you can attach a pressure gauge and check what you're getting. I didn't know it was EFI, which means its probably got electric pump(s). I was figuring a lovely mechanical pump might be (one of)the culprit(s). THat being said its probably a good idea to check regardless. Electric pumps can get lovely too. Local chain parts store probably loans out fuel pressure gauges. Get new filters too. Four years old, regardless of miles is pretty old for the main filter, and the other two, unless they're brand new, or close to brand new, change them bitches too. Just for the hell of it, check fuel pressure before you change them, and then after. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Dec 26, 2017 |
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Dec 26, 2017 06:12
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Anybody remember what happened to Cars & Parts Magazine? My dad had a subscription to it back in the early to mid 90s. It was a mag, that was just old restored antiques and survivors. No hot rods, resto mods (that I remember) or any of that. Just straight up old cars. I guess its probably not published anymore, but anyone remember when they stopped? Why they stopped etc?
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Jan 3, 2018 00:00
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Update to my windshield wiper problem. Changed the motor a few weeks ago. Everything is normal and its been way colder than it was when it was happening. Something weird, but not really a problem perse. More just something interesting. Its cold as gently caress, when I start my car, I shove the clutch in a few times, throw the poo poo in neutral and starts car. When I let clutch out, the car wants to lurch forward a little bit. Only happens when its freezing as gently caress out (gear oil a lot thicker obv.). Yesterday, I was sitting at a light not too long after leaving my place. The lane I was in had a bit of an incline, and with the clutch out and car in neutral, the car was sitting in place, but when I put the clutch in, the car started to roll back slightly, let off the pedal and the car would stop moving. I think I get the idea of why its happening, cold, really thick gear oil, and the internals are sort of getting turned in the right direction (via thick rear end oil) to hold the car in place, or move it forward. Anyone else have this happen to them? Is there some sort of "scientific" type explanation for this? Aside from thick oil = ........Uhhhh Something?
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Jan 6, 2018 18:50
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Whats a good dump in the tank combustion chamber cleaner? Friend's mom, thinks her car is starting to run kinda lovely (don't know the exact details) and has been putting higher octane gas in her tank to help compensate.
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Jan 8, 2018 12:27
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Geoj posted:The bolded part is just going to make things worse. Higher octane fuel is actually harder to burn, and unless the car in question has some form of forced induction (turbo/supercharging) or higher than normal compression the car will run poorly on mid or premium grade. Basically, if it doesn't say "PREMIUM FUEL ONLY" on the fuel gauge and/or cap the car isn't designed for it. I know, Carbon deposits create hotspots that cause preignition. Higher (but not necessarily premium) octane fuel will help with that. But yeah, thats a bandaid solution at best. Close the wound, don't just keep mopping up the blood.
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Jan 9, 2018 12:44
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totalnewbie posted:No, higher octane fuel protects against knock because it is less likely to autoignite due to compression. Preignition due to hot spots are an entirely beast and octane rating doesn't really help against it. I won't argue, since it still is along the lines of what I know/believe. That being said, please science me on the last sentence.
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Jan 9, 2018 23:45
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totalnewbie posted:. But in short, if your car isn't designed to take advantage of higher octane fuel, you're not going to get the benefits from it. And definitely not enough to offset the cost of premium over regular. Word, I always (or almost always) knew that, but your other post was quite informative as well. Does it sometimes have to do with carbon deposits also raising compression slightly? Or would you need like an eighth inch of carbon on the piston top to make a difference? Do regular fuels typically have the same detergents etc that used to only (apparently) come in premium fuel? Anecdotal story: Working a a garage just out of high school (summer of '98) car comes in and it was running like poo poo. Early 90s Buick with... 3.1 or maybe 3.3. Many things were tried to get it to run good. Last thing was to run about 6 cans of combustion chamber cleaner through the engine from a vacuum line directly in to the intake manifold, and thus through the engine in short order, obviously speeding up the process compared to running the same poo poo through six tanks of fuel. There was smoke like a motherfucker, but once it was all over, the car ran WAAAAYYY the gently caress better. The mechanic mentioned that "thats why, every so often you should run a tank of premium through the car". His reasoning was detergents and whatnot that clean up carbon etc. Though I didn't necessarily know it at the time, the higher octane, more resistant to ignition would the detergents make a difference? or would the "lesser burn" offset the effects of any detergents in the fuel? What says the goons on this subject? This is why I love AI.
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Jan 10, 2018 13:04
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 04:37 |
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Have you tried putting it in neutral when its idling low to see if that helps? Like maybe the torque convertor is locking up (it probably didn't have a lock up convertor in 88?) or otherwise hosed?
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Jan 11, 2018 12:49
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