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So I put some new rear speakers in the back of my 94 ford ranger a week ago. Yesterday I drove over to the gas station and the radio worked fine. Drive back home and nothing is coming out of the speakers. I've pulled the head unit out and looked over the connections and the fuse and there's nothing wrong. What could cause the head unit to work fine but nothing come out of the speakers?
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Feb 14, 2015 05:19
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Sentient Data posted:Loose/shorted wires at the speaker end? But before you tear it open again, you may as well check the audio balance on the head unit. No idea why it would happen, but you may as well make sure it's trying to send audio to the speakers in the first place Would a shorted pair stop all the speakers from working? The balance is fine on the head unit I even reset it.
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Feb 14, 2015 05:28
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Sentient Data posted:ALL the speakers I would doubt, I was thinking just the rear ones and overly-stripped wires rubbing or something similar. Is there an external amp that could have been disturbed or do the wires plug directly into the head? No external amp. I went over and checked all my connections at the head unit as well and didnt see anything out of the ordinary.
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Feb 14, 2015 05:43
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Alright guys I have a friend that wrecked her 2000 I think Honda CRV. She's a tiny lady at about 5' 9". We are trying to find her a good reliable SUV similar in size(or kinda close) as the CRV. Can you guys give some recommendations? I've searched Kia Sportages and Saturn Vues and recommended them to her but I'd like some more varied opinions.
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Feb 25, 2015 04:43
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Alright guys I broke something in the my 1994 4.0 Ford Ranger. I got in and tried to start it then stopped before it caught and turned over. It tried again immediately after and saw smoke coming from the engine bay up close to the drivers corner of the hood. I shut it off and opened the hood to look for what burned. Havent been able to find anything so far. I can start the engine now but it immediately goes to high rpm idle then dies down and stalls. Any suggestions on what to look at? The last two things I did to the truck were replace the IAC valve and installed two new speakers inside. The smell is of burned plastic like a wire or something heated up super hot.
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Feb 28, 2015 00:24
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1500quidporsche posted:Based on the high idle and the IAC being the last thing you did I'd start a there and move backwards through the wiring. The IAC was about 2 months ago. I'll go check the wires running to it though.
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Feb 28, 2015 00:34
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Senior Funkenstien posted:The IAC was about 2 months ago. I'll go check the wires running to it though. Alright I swapped in the old IAC. Starts and runs but still high idle and when it starts going down to normal idle it keeps going down till it stalls. I cant find anything burned out wire wise unless its somewhere I cant see.
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Feb 28, 2015 01:11
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1500quidporsche posted:My second guess would be a vacuum hose burning on something. Beyond that I'm not too sure what would cause a high idle and burning plastic smell. Have you checked the exhaust manifolds to see if a wire burnt onto them? could possibly be oxygen sensor wire I didn't have the truck started long enough for that to happen though. I disconnected the MAF to see if that changed anything, it did change the idle but it still stalled. Gonna try swapping some relays next and see if they fuel pump relay burned out.
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Feb 28, 2015 02:18
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Hey Guys, my 94 Ford Ranger is very bouncy. I replaced all the shocks when I first got it but its still the same. I don't see anything wrong with the springs(Leaf or Coils) what would you recommend I look at next? I haven't started my new job yet so I don't feel like throwing parts at it.
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Mar 15, 2015 23:25
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Krakkles posted:That's shocks, not springs. if you take the shocks out of a leaf/coil sprung vehicle, you can technically drive it (I wouldn't), but it's very ... bouncy. Yeah but like I said I replaced all the shocks. I thought it would fix that and didnt.
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Mar 16, 2015 00:22
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BrokenKnucklez posted:About 100-150 lbs of sand should even it out. Trucks are bouncy when they are empty. Thanks! I have some leftover rock salt from the water softener in bags. I'll throw some in the bed and see if it helps.
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Mar 16, 2015 04:20
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some texas redneck posted:Yeah uh, voluntarily putting a large amount of salt on/in a vehicle is just not a good idea, unless you live in the land of 0% humidity where it never, ever, ever rains and you can avoid every single puddle. My ranger is clean as poo poo and rust free. I think I can throw some leftover 40 pound bags of salt in the plastic tub thats in the truck bed and see what happens. Edit: Its also garage kept and I dont intend to run with the sealed bags of rock salt in the rain. Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Mar 16, 2015 |
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Mar 16, 2015 05:01
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GobiasIndustries posted:The check engine light came on in my 2005 Pontiac G6 today, so I took it for an inspection. The mechanics determined that 'the thermostat is stuck open. also found the EGR valve not opening all the way'. They wanted over $600 to replace the EGR valve with 'upgraded parts' and a fuel system cleaning, which I politely said gently caress that to. I don't have a ton of hands-on experience with cars, but I've managed to replace my headlights twice now with no problems (this model requires the entire headlight assembly to be removed so it's not as simple as in other cars) and I've always been good with my hands and piecing things together; is it super difficult to replace the thermostat and clean the EGR valve myself? EGR not opening all the way could be just a cracked vacuum line to the EGR. I'd check there first. Do you know what the Check engine light code was? Did they tell you how they determined the thermo was stuck open? For tools I'd just go with a mechanics tool set on sale from Sears or Harbor Freight and a jack and pair of jackstands.
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Mar 20, 2015 02:36
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GobiasIndustries posted:The two codes listed on the work inventory they gave me are 'P0128-Thermostat Issue' and 'P0401-EGR Insufficient Flow'. I didn't ask how they determined the problem for either, unfortunately, but I did at least make sure I wrote down the codes (wasn't sure if they'd be included on the work receipt). Buy yourself some new gaskets for the EGR. Take it off and hose the ports down with carb cleaner is the usual way to clean it maybe some qtips to reach inside. Not a hard job from what I've seen. The thermo can be hard depending on where its located and of course you do need to drain the cooling system to do it. What engine is in your G6? Edit: Here's the codes on the OBD-II page. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0401 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0128 Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 03:21
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My Ford Ranger seems to have a buildup of grease and dirt on the radiator fins. Do you guys think Purple Power would be okay to use with a garden hose to clean it off?
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Apr 24, 2015 06:51
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Alright so atlanta has really lovely roads and my 94 ranger bounced me up into the roof of the cab at least twice today. I have cheap monroe shocks on all around and have never done anything with the springs or anything on the front. You guys think a better quality shock would fix that or do I need to look at shocks and springs?
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Jul 31, 2015 22:42
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Motronic posted:You need to slow down, pick better lines, or not drive a mini pickup. Or at least drive it with a few hundred pounds in the bed. I have about 140 pounds in the bed at all times. I get bounced all around by things that are just bumps in the road half the time. It feels like the truck isnt even in contact with the road in the worst of it. Edit: The back has nothing to do with it as far as I can tell. It's the front end that has no absorbing of bumps or anything. It sways and bounces like hell. Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Aug 2, 2015 |
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Aug 2, 2015 00:01
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Motronic posted:This sounds a whole lot like a 1/4 ton pickup to me. Its got a lot of miles on it. 272000 so far. I replaced the shocks with cheap monroes when I got it almost one year ago. I have gone over it and the springs look fine but they may be worn out but not broken. I went and bounced all corners and the thing sways and rocks like a drunk no matter what corner you bounce. None stop within once cycle.
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Aug 2, 2015 00:38
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Godholio posted:I really want to see a video of this. I'll try to get you a good vid of it. Thanks Motronic for all the help!
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Aug 2, 2015 01:55
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Whats the rule for installing a shock with a threaded post on top? Tighten the nut till the bushing just start to compress and bulge a little?
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Aug 9, 2015 17:11
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Alright guys I got an interesting one. My brakes have worked great since I fixed the leaky wheel cylinder on the back passenger side. Today after getting back in after several hours I found a spongy brake and the ebrake pedal goes down a lot further than it did earlier in the day. I looked for leaks and checked the fluids. It was a sudden change not a gradual one. What ideas do you guys have on the cause? Edit: Its a rear wheel drive 94 ford ranger. Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Aug 12, 2015 |
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Aug 12, 2015 01:19
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Slavvy posted:Leaky wheel cylinder on the driver's side. Took the hub off the wheel i replaced the cylinder in and the parking adjuster, the spring for the bottom of the shoes and the bracket that has the ebrake wire and spring connected to it fell out.... WTF?
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Aug 12, 2015 02:11
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Hey Guys, I got new shocks for the back of my truck. I have a 94 ford ranger and the back shocks are eyelets on top and bottom with rubber bushing pressed in. I got metal sleeves in the package with the shocks and I'm not sure what they are for other than spacing out double shock setups. Any thoughts on what they are for?
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Aug 14, 2015 00:27
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My new shocks for the back of my truck came with metal sleeves that I guess go in the bushings. Is it alright to grease the inside of the bushing to press them in?
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Aug 15, 2015 00:06
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What do you guys think of the Dodge Caliber? If my truck gets totalled out I was thinking of picking up a used one.
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Aug 21, 2015 14:42
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Anyone have anything bad to say about the 2015 Dodge Dart? I've had one for about 5 or so days while my truck is in the shop and I kinda love the little thing. I'm thinking about maybe getting one.
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Sep 20, 2015 04:30
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totalnewbie posted:We have a 14 Dart for a fleet car. I was hoping I wouldnt hear that but thanks. The rental I have is brand new so it feels fast and comfy but I guess thats temporary. This one has 5k miles on it so its pretty new.
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Sep 20, 2015 05:04
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So I am planning on going and looking at and possibly purchasing this: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/cto/5241380070.html What do you guys think of the 6 Cylinder 225 engine? Is it good enough to have some fun with?
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Oct 2, 2015 00:44
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StormDrain posted:Buy that car only if you want to swap the engine or are prepared to return it to all stock and just be slow. It will be a swap at some point. For now though I don't mind a slow car as I don't drive my own vehicle any great distances. My plan was to get a new carb for it and then go through the engine bay and see what needs what.
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Oct 2, 2015 22:39
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I am changing the spark plugs on my 1970 plymouth duster and the plugs I got from advance auto have about 1/3" longer threaded area. The engine is a 225 slant six and amazon and everything says these are the correct plugs. Is this something to worry about? I dont want my plugs getting his by the pistons. Old plugs are Champion RV17YC and the new are NGK GR4's.
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Oct 4, 2015 20:45
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Anyone ever run into sparkplugs that didn't fit into a standard sized spark plug socket for a wrench? The ones I'm trying to put in need a bigger socket but theres no clearance for the socket on the engine.
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Oct 4, 2015 23:58
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Question: For my 1970 Plymouth Duster with the 225 Slant Six engine. It has a singe barrel carb on it right now. If I went to a 2 barrel carb would I need a different intake manifold?
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Oct 13, 2015 01:00
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Take another pic with all of the plugs in the same orientation so we can see the electrodes of all of them at the same time.
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Nov 15, 2015 03:54
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Can you guys recommend a cheap manual car or truck? I've never learned how to drive a manual so I want to get something to beat up on and learn
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Dec 27, 2015 21:14
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StormDrain posted:Do you have a car use you need to fill? You can just set a Craigslist alert for all manual cars within your price range and wait until something fun comes up. I do need a beater for daily short runs to the store and whatnot.
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Dec 28, 2015 01:03
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I mixed Mercon V with Dex/Merc in my 2011 Ford ranger. How badly did I screw up? The Dipstick says use Mercon V and I thought the Dex/Merc was compatible.
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Mar 11, 2016 00:13
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Elmnt80 posted:Did you just top it up with the dex/merc or do a flush with it? Is is slipping at all? I drained and refilled. It's been running fine since I did it.
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Mar 11, 2016 12:54
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Elmnt80 posted:The earlier version of mercon you would find in most dex/merc blends will not have the various additives and will not stand up to the same temps as mercon V. I'd say find a way to completely drain it yourself if possible (this means getting what is in the torque converter as well) or have a shop do it. If you aren't having any slippage, the fluid isn't smelling burnt on the dipstick and you don't see any metallic flakes, you likely don't have any damage to worry about. I'd just say get it all swapped as soon as its reasonably possible. If it makes you feel better, I've made the exact same mistake with dex III/VI and know what a pain in the rear end it is to waste all that perfectly good fluid and money. Thanks! I changed the fluid because of some hard shifts and the fluid that came out was black. Thankfully I have a 30k warranty on the drivetrain. I'll get a flush done and see if that improves things any.
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Mar 12, 2016 06:07
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Does that get more sensitive as time goes by? My wife's old car got it so bad that it took me months to be able to get it reliably. It's not so much a wiggle I guess, it's pulling the wheel to a different position and holding it there. My old Saturn had an issue with the cylinder binding up without the wheel even being locked. Turned out the cylinder needed some grease on the outside to stop it because the original grease had worn off.
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Jul 23, 2016 17:54
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Risket posted:2005 GMC Yukon Denali XL 6.0L with front and rear air conditioning PM me your address. I'll send you my blacklight and glasses. Thats the only way your gonna find a pinhole leak usually. If that is what is causing the issue. Could be a blockage of some sort but i'm not ac certified so I'm just guessing.
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Jul 24, 2016 01:35
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