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punkr0csux posted:I've been thinking about this for a weekend/fun car: They're reliable and don't really have any mechanical pitfalls. Where's the 'fun' part though?
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Sep 29, 2015 22:11
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Looking at a 2004 Suburban with a dead gauge cluster. Any way to find the actual mileage without a Tech2?
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Sep 30, 2015 13:04
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EVERYWHERE 
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Slavvy posted:They're reliable and don't really have any mechanical pitfalls. The SMTs like to break sometimes. And the fun part comes in when you put a 2ZZ in it.
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Sep 30, 2015 15:34
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I need to replace a rear wheel barring assembly on my 2000 Pontiac bonneville. I've been driving on a shady one. The part is like $55 but can I do this myself? Would I need any special tools?
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Sep 30, 2015 16:53
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Hub assemblies are a piece of cake. You'll need to remove the rotor, after that it's literally four bolts holding it to the strut/axle/whatever that car has. All you need is a wrench. E: standard rust belt disclaimer applies, but if you're replacing it you can just go to town with a BFH if it's seized into place. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Sep 30, 2015 |
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Sep 30, 2015 17:20
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Enourmo posted:Hub assemblies are a piece of cake. You'll need to remove the rotor, after that it's literally four bolts holding it to the strut/axle/whatever that car has. All you need is a wrench. I thought it was going to be a nightmare, until I realized there were holes in the bottom disc of the assembly to fit your socket wrench through. I almost didn't see it. I was trying to go around for like 10 minutes. Did need a BFH.
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Sep 30, 2015 22:10
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Hey guys, my 2004 accord is having some intermittent starting issues. It seems to randomly decide to really chug while starting the car. Othertimes it seems to work beautifully. I grabbed my HF multimeter and checked voltage with everything off: hovers in the 12.4v range Turned the car on (after a chuggy start 10 minutes earlier, it of course starts with no issues this time) and turned on a bunch of accessories. Showed 13.8-14v. Checked all connections and wiring and it all looks fine. From what I know, this seems to rule out battery and alternator issues? I turned the car off and it started again with no issues. The same cadence of starter sounds and time it takes to start as it always has. Turned it off, did it again, perfect. Did that a few more times, still no issues. So, uh, whats wrong? My gut feeling still says battery, but the voltage numbers seem OK...
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Sep 30, 2015 23:16
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I'd say let it sit overnight, then try and see what the voltage is while cranking; if your meter is slow to respond, try flooring the gas pedal while cranking, on some models that shuts the injectors off and lets you crank indefinitely. If it drops below 11V while cranking, it needs to be replaced. This should be true regardless of whether it cranks funny or not. How old is the battery?
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Sep 30, 2015 23:22
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I'll give that a shot. I'm going to go check the play in the belts and make sure I dont have a belt slipping (doesnt seem like it, no belt-related noises). The battery is probably 4-5 years old at this point, which is one of the reasons I still suspect it.
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Sep 30, 2015 23:24
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Belts are always good to check, but if it's putting out good voltage at idle then a slipping belt would only show up (if at all) under high electrical load, which you can't really simulate unless you have a load tester to check alternator output current.
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Sep 30, 2015 23:30
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You've already ruled out the charging system for the most part and the battery is old enough that I would just preemptively change it instead of being stuck or late for work etc.
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Sep 30, 2015 23:56
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The good news is that its my fiances car, and she works about 1/4 mile from our house. So we have some flexibility to wait it out a bit. I just did some googling and theres a lot of starter failures on this model of accord, and they seem to start as an intermittent issue. I will prob just order a started from amazon and send it back if I dont need it. Thanks for the help dudes.
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Oct 1, 2015 00:10
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Edit: wrong thread.
XYZAB fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Oct 1, 2015 |
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Oct 1, 2015 11:53
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I may have asked this question in another thread a while back, but I can't remember the answer. We've had a 1990 K5 Blazer sitting in the garage for around 8 years now, previously owned by a family member who passed away. Single owner, 260k miles, cared for very well up until the time it sat in the garage. It was started occasionally but hasn't been touched in the last 3 or 4 years. We've held onto it for sentimental reasons but it's going to have to be sold soon because it's just taking up too much room and no one has the money for a vehicle like this. What should I realistically expect to get for it on Craigslist?
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Oct 1, 2015 13:54
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It's really going to depend on your local market and the condition of your truck. If you aren't in a massive rush I would recommend spending the time to get it started and driving again. I wouldn't put new tires on it, but I'd at least inflate them, change the fluids, flush the fuel system out, and be able to show buyers that "ran when parked" was accurate. If there was no real mechanical reason to park the truck, getting it driving at least enough to putter around the neighborhood should only cost you fluids and time.
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Oct 1, 2015 14:24
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What's the current on gasoline/petrol going stale? My LPG car sips petrol at start-up - I'm using about half a tank in 6 months and a couple of gallons of that were when I ran out of LPG. Should I be making an effort to burn up some more, just to make sure the stuff in there is fresh enough?
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Oct 1, 2015 14:56
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spog posted:What's the current on gasoline/petrol going stale?
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Oct 1, 2015 15:09
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spog posted:What's the current on gasoline/petrol going stale? If you fill up on E-10, try to use it more. Also keep the tank topped off. The more air that's in the tank, the more water will find its way into the gas; they'll start to separate and you'll have this awesome layer of water collecting at the bottom of your tank. E-10 separates much faster than normal gasoline; lots of classic car folks (myself included) have had to replace gas tanks that were perfectly fine up until about 2000 because they suddenly started rusting through.
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Oct 1, 2015 16:08
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Rattling in strut areas, checked mounts, what the heck is this about : Driver's side:  Passenger's side:  All that crap is like brand new and everything's tight. What have I missed? 2002 VW Golf. There's also a loud BANG sound coming from the rear of the vehicle when I go over medium-large bumps, but it doesn't happen when I have weight in the back.
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Oct 1, 2015 17:24
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 The previous owner used some gasket sealer on it to seal it back up, and now we're back to square one. I added a little more just so I can drive it in the meantime. But I want to pick up a new housing. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/racatalog.php?carcode=1425024&parttype=5128 Since my sensor is still good and it just pops out of the housing I should be able to buy any of those and replace the sensor, right? edit: Nevermind, I just bought this one on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/131414698569 Cage fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Oct 1, 2015 |
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Oct 1, 2015 19:20
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I had my brakes done recently. I'm still getting some squealing when I come to a stop. Nor from slowing down, just stopping. Could that be something other than the brakes? I'll probably take it in in a couple weeks to have them look at it. The car is a 99, so I'm not sure if that is just normal at that age.
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Oct 1, 2015 23:39
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What kind of brake pads? Did you use brake lube (gooey sticky greenish stuff) on the anti squeal shim?
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Oct 1, 2015 23:50
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So I am planning on going and looking at and possibly purchasing this: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/cto/5241380070.html What do you guys think of the 6 Cylinder 225 engine? Is it good enough to have some fun with?
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Oct 2, 2015 00:44
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Senior Funkenstien posted:So I am planning on going and looking at and possibly purchasing this: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/cto/5241380070.html "It also has carburetor issues as well as it will only run decent enough to drive on choke." Sounds super fun, just not the way you're imagining.
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Oct 2, 2015 03:19
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Senior Funkenstien posted:So I am planning on going and looking at and possibly purchasing this: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/cto/5241380070.html Buy that car only if you want to swap the engine or are prepared to return it to all stock and just be slow. That carb issue could just be needing a cleaning, like a fleck of rust or something stuck preventing fuel delivery so it only runs by enriching it with the choke pulled and the throttle up a bit. Or a vacuum leak which may be more likely considering there's a spare carb, there may be an issue with the base being tweaked. But really that small inline 6 from the 70s is going to be slow, and the body looks fast, so you'll want it to be fast. It's not a Sunday cruiser.
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Oct 2, 2015 03:40
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I'm thinking about buying a salvage car for spare parts for my current daily driver (headlight assembly, seats, headlight autoleveling sensor, etc) and to practice wrenching on. Good idea / bad idea? I'm avoiding anything with flood damage.
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Oct 2, 2015 14:54
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antitroll posted:I'm thinking about buying a salvage car for spare parts for my current daily driver (headlight assembly, seats, headlight autoleveling sensor, etc) and to practice wrenching on. Good idea / bad idea? I'm avoiding anything with flood damage. If you have the money and the space, it's not the worst idea.
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Oct 2, 2015 15:25
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StormDrain posted:Buy that car only if you want to swap the engine or are prepared to return it to all stock and just be slow. It will be a swap at some point. For now though I don't mind a slow car as I don't drive my own vehicle any great distances. My plan was to get a new carb for it and then go through the engine bay and see what needs what.
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Oct 2, 2015 22:39
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poo poo. How popular are those tire shaving machines? I need to replace a ruined tire, but I'm on an AWD car and there's about 16 months worth of wear on them and I don't want to damage a diff. Can I take my car to most places for a replacement and have a tire's tread adjusted?
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Oct 3, 2015 02:36
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They're expensive as hell, and require training, so few shops have them. You can however, order one shaved from tirerack.com, and have it shipped to a local place to have it installed.
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Oct 3, 2015 03:03
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A stupid question about bike racks. I have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. I need to be able to transport two bicycles, so I'm looking for a bike rack. But this car doesn't have a trailer hitch of any sort (nor a roof rack), so those trailer-mounted bike racks aren't an option, for me. Can anyone tell me what my options are for aftermarket bike racks?
melon cat fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Oct 3, 2015 |
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Oct 3, 2015 03:16
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I've had one like this that worked just fine. http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Deluxe-2-Bike-Trunk/dp/B00TRTSAZM/ref=sr_1_1
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Oct 3, 2015 03:23
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Uthor posted:I've had one like this that worked just fine.
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Oct 3, 2015 05:56
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Enourmo posted:I'd say let it sit overnight, then try and see what the voltage is while cranking; if your meter is slow to respond, try flooring the gas pedal while cranking, on some models that shuts the injectors off and lets you crank indefinitely. I'm not sure if newer Hondas do this, but my 2001 definitely did not shut off the injectors if you did the WOT crank. IIRC there's a few fuses you can pull to kill the fuel though. Injector fuse, ECU fuse (may need to pull backup fuse as well - you'll need the radio code if you do that), fuel pump fuse?
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Oct 3, 2015 08:37
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Posted in the chat thread, maybe I can get some advice here... What's wrong with my tranny? I don't mean my dickgirl, I mean the gearbox in my '04 GTP. A 4t65e-hd to be specific. It started not shifting properly a month or so ago. Not kicking up or down and revving higher than normal at highway speed. Last weekend I drained it, changed the filter and filled it with fresh dex 6. It immediately ran perfect and did so for about 3 days and then went back to the way it was before. If it's a mechanical problem I don't understand how it can go from hosed to fine with a fluid change and then back again. This is a professionally rebuilt tranny I had installed by a good shop about a year and a half and around 55k miles ago. Of course the warranty was good for 2 years. No abuse aside from the usual flooring up highway ramps and what not. Any ideas before I take it back to the shop to find out how hosed I am?
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Oct 3, 2015 13:07
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melon cat posted:That looks perfect, and if Amazon's 'Check Fit' function is to be believed, it'll fit my Elantra just fine. Thanks very much for this link. I wasn't endorsing that particular one. The one I had was bought like 20 years ago and I have no idea who made it. Do some research. Though the one I linked look much nicer than my cheap one. Looks like it has more adjustments and is more stable.
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Oct 3, 2015 13:08
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tater_salad posted:What kind of brake pads? Subaru OEM parts, I don't know about brake lube. I just took it into the shop. I know it's not a difficult job, but car work is always very time consuming for me. The shop has a good reputation. They'll look at it free of charge, I'm just wondering if it might be something dangerous, since I am taking it about 500 miles next weekend.
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Oct 3, 2015 17:12
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Subaru OEM parts, I don't know about brake lube. I just took it into the shop. I know it's not a difficult job, but car work is always very time consuming for me. The shop has a good reputation. They'll look at it free of charge, I'm just wondering if it might be something dangerous, since I am taking it about 500 miles next weekend. clunking is bad.. a little squealing on brake applicaion not so much especially at the end of braking.. if they're semi-metalic you may get some chirp chirp chirping.. otherwise my guess is it's just a shim making noise, or some extra dust.
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Oct 3, 2015 17:14
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Okay, good. I'll probably take it in a couple weeks from now. It might just be dust, but I still want to make sure.
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Oct 3, 2015 17:49
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:Posted in the chat thread, maybe I can get some advice here... Not saying that this is the problem, but when you drop the pan and change the fluid your only getting what's in the pan. The torque converter probably holds 1.5x that much. Those transmissions are known for failure behind the supercharged engine.
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Oct 3, 2015 23:16
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