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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

unnoticed posted:

Gouged a chunk off one of the panels of my 2018 Hyundai Ioniq.





Can see some exposed metal there. I assume there was a layer of plastic or fiberglass under the paint that got chipped away

Was trying to avoid filing a claim as we already had one within the last year and I'm thinking about fixing it myself. I was looking at the various dent repair kits in Autozone and watching the videos for them and it doesn't seem too crazy... Is this doable or is it just going to be a huge mess? Is there any specific product that would be best for this type of thing?

Don't forget you can just go to a body shop and get a quote from them and pay out of pocket. Avoids a claim, but likely to be more expensive than your deductible.

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

taqueso posted:

I want to get some high-temp wire and 2-conductor cable to go in the engine bay, where is a good place to buy that where I can be sure I won't get some knockoff crap?

I just got a promotion from wiring depot.com and if I recall it was good stuff.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

cr0y posted:

2011 ford escape

My girlfriend wanted me to do some homework on remote start options for the above vehicle. I have never owned a car with remote starters but know a ton of aftermarket kits exist with varying levels of install complexity. Can anyone give me the low down on whether or not it's an easy addition to a car without a factory remote start system? Any decent manufacturers to check out and what I should be on the lookout for?

Here's the official system: https://accessories.ford.com/catalog/product/view/id/8834/s/series-100-one-button-remote-start-system-for-use-with/category/285/

And it is installed on my Wife's same year escape. Works a treat. Interesting note that it requires the dome lights to be in door mode, not off or on, to work. I assume it relies on that for anti theft because when you open a door it turns the vehicle off.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

STR posted:

If only they could rely on the door switches. :confused:

(I keep my dome light off, but cargo light in auto... there's puddle lights on my car that come on regardless though)

Yeah but then it'd have to be a two contact door switch rather than just grounding it out. They saved pennies on this!

Also what are you doing with your dope scope off all the time, I thought only cops did that. I went out of my way adding a door switch to my IH after driving it in December and hating starting it in the dark twice a day. Also the cab I got fenders and a hood from had factory door switches which seems drat fancy, and mine was the deluxe trim. I felt cheated.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Chunjee posted:

For the whole rig, there is no trailer. I don't know much about the cab. Freightliner fiberglass. There is an upper and lower bunkbed. It's red.

If it costs less than $1000 to tow it back to the city I'm recommending that. Junkyard wants the title which hints to me they aren't really going to part it out.

They need the title to keep it legal, otherwise they'd be flooded with stolen y2k Honda civics.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

The Door Frame posted:

Depends on the car

64 Impala
84 Bronco
82 Trans Am
83 DeLorean
32 Ford
98 Honda Civic
98 Crown Vic
63 Continental

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Xarthor posted:

Here's a stupid question: are there any legitimate warranties you can buy for a used car to cover unexpected maintenance costs? I'm not talking about the ones that spam robo-dial you...but are there any legitimate companies?

I'm about to inherit a 2007 Hyundi Tuscon with 155,000 miles and although I don't plan on using it for my daily driver, it probably will need some work in the future, and if there was a legitimate company I could pay $X amount of money a month to lessen the burden if some motor part blows one day and sticks me with a random $400-$500 repair bill, I'd do it.

Put $100 aside every month and in 5 months you have it. Or less and longer. Better than paying a company that will deny you coverage when you need it.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

wesleywillis posted:

Aren't most starters grounded to/through the block?

Yes, and they draw a ton of power, relying on the block ground to the battery. So I'd start there. The real easy way too, jumper cable grounding from the negative to a good point on the motor.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Bank posted:

Yeah, my local Home Depot charges something like $29 for 75 minutes to rent a truck from them. It gets you to buy more stuff, but it's so convenient and you don't risk trashing your car.

Do this.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

geese posted:

Could any of you folks tell me what this light means and if I should be concerned? I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute with less than 100 000km on it. The light isn’t listed in the owners manual for some reason. It’s the one on at the bottom of the image that sort of looks like a Monopoly hotel.



The light comes on every once in a while, first thing in the morning when I start the car. It always turns off after less than 5 minutes of driving. There is no noticeable change to car performance while the light is on. I have noticed it comes on more often in extreme cold weather. It’s been -40 Celsius here the last 5 days and car wouldn’t start for a couple days but starting and driving fine now after a good lap around the highway. I get it serviced regularly so all fluids should be topped up and everything.

Edit: re-uploaded photo

Check your gazebo.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

PainterofCrap posted:

Coolant level.

Or, suggesting a trip to another tribute site: the Lincoln Memorial.

Carousel pressure low.

Edit;oh tribute that's good.

Visit the Parthenon in Nashville.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

PainterofCrap posted:

Glad to hear it.

The mass isn't nearly as much of an issue as is the bulk, which is aggravated by a constant-changing of center-of-gravity as the fuel sloshes around. It's a hell of a lot easier to reinstall it once it's drained.



This was the tank for the '03 Roadmaster wagon. Did the same job - fuel pump. The problem was, the gauge was broken, so I had no idea how much gas was in it. Turned out, about 18-gallons. Oof.

Which is why I purposefully drove my pickup until it died, then put in just enough to get home so it would be minimal.

Then I found out my hose was loose. So when it died it was still at 10/15 gallons.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

MrOnBicycle posted:

Looks good, but I started to replace using the mechanics creeper with just throwing gym mats (those that are put together like a puzzle) and crawling in under the car on them. Very comfortable.
I'd get both as the gym mats are great for when you need to be on your knees etc.

Lately I've been needing a head support too, I try not to wrench right over my face to keep debris from falling on me. A side effect of working on mostly old gritty iron. I'll position myself so the work is over my chest and I have to hold my head up a bit. Which is where the creeper is great but a rolled up anything works fine too.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

DreadCthulhu posted:

I'm a car idiot, help. I don't really have to commute anywhere, but I'm still in a fairly drive-heavy area and I'd love not to have to rely on Uber for everything. I want a vehicle that is bulletproof (aka don't break), is frugal, is cheap to maintain, doesn't impress anybody, gets me from A to B, that has CarPlay and modern safety features so I don't cripple myself by being a dipshit. What would fit these requirements? I'm thinking either a recent (2016+) Civic or a Corolla, since depreciation is only about... $1000 to $1500 a year on these, so I should still be able to sell them back if I need to later down the line without it hurting too bad. Thoughts?

Your best bet is Iron Planet for used armored vehicles, cost wise. Still going to be a logistical challenge taking receipt and registering, and you'll need an aftermarket radio for car play. Shouldn't depreciate much more than it has already, depending on what kind of damage you take.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

tuna posted:

Thanks guys, I'll check what thickness my current gloves are and go thicker from there. I probably have some 5mil garbage for a surgeon. I bled the brakes today and tore through several sets despite it being a dainty task, so I thought I'd ask.

Last night I has a great conversation about gloves for surgery and how awesome they actually are. SOP is wearing them double thick, in contrasting colors, there are more sizes including half sizes, and they are chiral, left and right handed so they fit right.

Anyway Costco has some in the auto area now that are fantastic, not the strongest I've ever used but they hold up very well. It's hard to quantify it, but generally I'm not tearing through unless it's some kind of sharp edge.

The trade off when they're really thick is losing feel. Generally not an issue on cars but sucks when you can't pick up a pin or washer off the concrete.

Also last time I thought about it I wanted a glove box dispenser and now it looks like they exist for :10bux: so it's time.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Applesnots posted:

I know, but she is at work with her car.

Pt cruiser forum post

Is this it?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Javid posted:

I forgot northern Nevada's "regular" is 85 instead of 87, and pumped 15 gallons into my 36 gallon tank before I noticed. The rest is 87. Do I correctly understand that this will just average out to a tank of 86.16 octane? And if so how huge an issue will it be?

E: ram van w/ 318 v8, manual says 87

Where in Nevada? A lot of Nevada is over 2000ft, and you can get a lot higher, so with less air at elevation a lower octane is fine.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Javid posted:

I pumped the 85 in Battle Mountain, but I'm going to be driving back to Medford (~900 feet) on this tank of ~86.25 I've got now.

Like I vaguely understand the 85 works better up high but I'm not staying up here

Bullshit you are, You'll be coasting in on fumes! (you'll be fine. I just like to point out the lower air density for people on fuel octane requirements)

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

wesleywillis posted:

Do what he said.

Some cars though you need to remove the entire door panel just to be able to remove that one small piece which IIRC is known as the "sail panel".

Painter must've had one, because I did and that's exactly how it is, pull that sail panel and there it is.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

melon cat posted:

So with the quarantine in effect it looks like I won't be driving my car for a long time. Vehicles are stored outside. How long can a vehicle sit for until the gasoline starts to go bad and start loving things up internally? Is it time to buy and add some fuel stabilizer?

You don't have to go anywhere to drive around. You could just go to the next state and back to cure boredom, with your largest exposure being the refueling process.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Motronic posted:

Please let me know what vehicle that exists on so I can cross it off any list ever.

That doesn't even make any sense to be a thing.

I think by that they just mean they're programed to report they're in a certain location. Lots of GM vehicles show the pressure per corner, and even though my Ford Escape doesnt say the pressures for each, it was programmed in an order.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Your Boy Fancy posted:

Stupid question time.

I've found myself in possession of a 1972 Plymouth Fury. It's beat to poo poo and the owner, who died a month ago, has all the weaponry to be a rolling mechanic's shop. I'm not a mechanic. What I am, though, is a guy trying to locate the bloody gas tank on this thing so I can take it to a gas station, fill her up, and maybe take her to a proper mechanic to get her street legal.

Is there an owner's manual around that's not being held hostage on eBay?

I have to assume you are looking for where to put gas into the car. Judging by an image of the gas tank I would guess dead center on the rear behind a flap.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
You can't get that with some series of extensions, wobbles and swearing? It would be safer.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Krakkles posted:

You could do the tree thing, but if a shop is an option, I'd probably let them sort it out. It's one of those "if you're asking this question, you're probably not going to do it safely" kind of things.

Very sound advice, and if it can wait a while, then after the stay at home orders are lifted is ideal.

The other way to bend it back would be using leverage, if you happened to have a long, strong bar to wedge in there and push it back. What is bent usually will bend again easier. Or whack it with the BFH.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

rndmnmbr posted:

Should also check battery cables for corrosion. Starter should have little to do with dashboard activity. I'm thinking bad ground.

I was thinking the same thing, with the instruments being a key symptom.

I was also conscious of the fact that I think that almost everytime since it was such a learning moment for me, so thanks for answering first.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Oh and also I've never heard the term sweptline before, and now I am also skeptical of its relevance on that year. Cool name though.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Put it in a shallow pan and let it evaporate. Put a little in your cars tank and dilute with fresh gas.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

IOwnCalculus posted:

This is what I would do, especially if you have at least one vehicle that isn't too picky about gas.

I also just disposed of 10 gallons of older gas this way. Put it in two cars and dilute with a ton of fresh gas. They were both almost empty so it works out.

Feel free to quote this when one of those cars dies on bad gas.

Edit: the international isn't driving but it is great for that. 10MPG takes care of a lot of fuel quickly, and the dual tank offers some insurance. Fill up as much lovely gas as you want, after 60 miles you've burned a half tank so fill up with more fresh to dilute further. If it dies, flip tanks and burn good stuff and try again after diluting.

StormDrain fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Apr 19, 2020

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Chunjee posted:

Wtf did I do wrong here? Is my paint old? did I lay it too thick? Do I need to paint in warmer weather? Did I not scuff underneath correctly? (230 or 500 grit, not sure which)



Sanded and re-sprayed with FastLine filler and had zero problems.

I've never used that paint, but I have to say it looks like it was too thick. It looks like mud checking in drywall joint compound. Too thick and shrinks when it dries and crack.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Chunjee posted:

This is Rustoleum "Filler Primer"

I think it is fairly old (maybe 6-8 months), laid thicker than normal, probably 65 temperature.

It was just kind of kooky that it went on fine but cracked all over while drying. Going to blame the paint's age and quality primarily, though application, temperature, and surface prep could have been more ideal.

I wouldn't say 6-8 months is old. 5 years might trigger it as old to me.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Autozone and Advance are charging like twice as much. Talking a $55 strut on Rockauto is $108 on Advance. I looked at Tire Rack, they're like $80-90 for the struts. I'll look at other places.

Looks like it's only cities that collect their own sales tax rather than having the state collect it for them, so I might be able to get the parts delivered to my dad's house, since he lives in a small town that I don't think does that, but that's like a 45 minute trip each way. I don't think they have a problem paying to the state, just going from hypothetically 50 government entities and literally more than doubling it just from one state is a somewhat disproportionate amount of added paperwork to revenue.

I hit the same issue last year. I check periodically to see if they signed up with a service to automate it yet or not so that's a solid no. I wrote my councilperson and no response. I've been using ebay and Amazon since then, it's gonna suck when I need brakes again though!

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Javid posted:

How diyable is a u-joint on a 91 Dakota?



I'd give that two wrenches out of five, if you have the tools. Which are wrenches. And a pair of pliers, vice and BFH.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PpR-DcRV08

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

22 Eargesplitten posted:

If you did decide you wanted a Subaru I would definitely recommend buying in PA assuming you can find a rust-free example. Seems like there's a strong Subaru culture in PA and they seem cheaper than in CO. For reference, when I wrecked my '99 poverty-spec Outback Sport with 207k miles at the end of 2017 the insurance company valued it at $3900. Are you not bringing any stuff with you? If you're going to be bringing a truck on another trip you could haul a car.

I've got a friend with an XTerra that likes it, but I'm not sure how much work he's needed to do on it. He's done a lot of work on it to make it better for offroading, not sure how much was needed to keep it on the road, but it's well over 200k miles at this point.

One thing about CO (maybe not so much the high country) is that it's dry enough we don't get massive amounts of snow, sunny enough that the roads tend to melt pretty fast, and the snowplows are pretty on the ball. I'm rarely driving on snow for more than a day, excluding the small residential streets I'm only taking for a few blocks to get to the major streets.

You would have thought we lived on a glacier the way people freaked out about the side streets this year.

I am confirming this whole post.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Does anyone have experience with or a resource for a "universal" replacement parking brake cable? Cables for the International are not available, and it's a dead simple system. Its a foot pedal to a mount that has an equilizer and one long cable to the rear drums. I noticed one side has frayed wires, so I'd like to swap it since when it breaks then both sides will be free. I only want to replace the rear section, but I'll do whatever. I have seen products, but I don't see good sources for measurements and planning.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Tai-Pan posted:

Well, the balance bar itself has a big intake on it, so I am not really sure how much a "leak" would play into this. Then again, I am stupid.

So this comment is a big wtf for me, what do you mean? Is there an unmetered hole in your intake somewhere because yes that is a problem. And one you could cover and see an instant change.

Also earlier you said the butterflies "seem closed when not running" is there a way to see them while it is running? Like air cleaner off and maybe a mirror or something I'd the access is weird?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Some kind of interference from pushing power thru the cigarette lighter vs. drawing power? If you clamp the charger to the battery does it have the same effects?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

meatpimp posted:

I dunno, let me go see!

Edit: With the solar cell spring clipped to the battery, everything functions as normal.

It's haunted. Or something explainable by an electrical engineer, which is haunted adjacent anyway.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Hunter2 Thompson posted:

I was thinking about points ignition systems (aka Kettering) and considered that there's a real chance that the engine could stop with the points in the closed position. Then if you were to turn the ignition switch in "run" (but not crank it) battery voltage would be flowing through your coil's primary continuously. This seems like a real fast way to overheat and destroy a coil, doesn't it? And yet, I've never heard about this happening. I must be missing something.

I'm going to post what I think, hopefully this will bait an actual electrical engineer to correct me and we can learn something.

The coil is always hot (power to it) when the key is on, points open or closed. Closing the points just allows the charge built up on the high side to go to the spark plug of the moment. But the plug has a gap. It only works because a charge built up when the points were open, it's really an open circuit otherwise, so no current is flowing. And the coil isn't getting hot.

Edit. Whoa even I know that's wrong. I am just guessing that once the magnetic field is charged it doesn't use much current? Resistance increases drastically?

StormDrain fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Jun 14, 2020

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Sounds like you're about to have some fun generating signals and seeing what happens. Seems like sending a 12v pulse 1000 x number of cylinders per minute would yield 1000 rpm, right?

This is all coming from a guy who could only get a fuel injection set halfway done. Literally spent a year and never identified the problem.

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

melon cat posted:

2007 Corolla.

My front stabilizer bar is rusty as poo poo on its ends, and the black protective coating of factory paint just flaked off, revealing lots and lots of rust. Is there a paint/rust inhibitor that I can spray onto here that will hide and slow the rust growth? I'm not expecting it to look beautiful. I just don't want the sway bars seizing to my stabilizer links' bolts again. Because gently caress all that.



https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-black-aerosol-15-ounce.html

I just started using this stuff but not in aerosol, but I like it. Not that I can say it'll last forever, I don't have the firsthand experience. Most of the rust stopping products are at least good, the reviews end up all over the place and it's hard to say if the product or prep was the issue.

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