melon cat posted:

Just a follow-up issue with my broken sideview mirror (2009 Hyundai Elantra).

This is my current (broken) sideview mirror. Notice the hole for the fastener circled in green.



Here's my aftermarket replacement. It's missing that third hole.


Should I return this replacement mirror? Or, is it still usable?

Armchair Calvinist posted:

Thanks for the info, guys. Appreciate it! I'll be looking into an '03-'06 automatic I4 Camry then. There's also http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/5005009272.html this down the street (literally) from me and I've heard good things about the generation from 92-96 and it leaves a lot of room for maintenance costs. Opinions?

The Sex Cannon posted:

I have a 1990 Toyota Pickup. One of my rear turn signal lights (the left one) has burned out. I have the replacement part, an 1156 bulb. Thing is I can't get the old bulb out of the socket. Is there a trick to these things? I notice the 1156 bulb has little bumps on the sides at the part where it goes into the socket, but it's not like a coaxial cable where you have to turn it to lock it, right? There's no twisting in installing or removing these things?

I'm worried that if I manhandle this thing too much the bulb will break and I'll never get it out. Also glass shards in my hand.

Bovril Delight posted:

That seems really inconvenient as well.

Dog Jones posted:

EightBit posted:

The longer a job, the more consumables are going to be used.

Godholio posted:

Chrysler + Fiat.

Motronic posted:

Especially with the additional attention being paid to Defenders by customs.

CharlieWhiskey posted:

Most cars are worth $200-$300 for the scrap metal alone. Call around to scrapyards and ask what the going rate is for your car. If it runs, drive it and collect the bounty. If it doesn't run, have it towed to the scrap yard for $100 and collect the bounty less the cost of tow.

You can still be philanthropic and donate the car to a charity of your choice and they will either have kids wrench on it for fun or they will part it out/scrap it and collect the bounty.

wesleywillis posted:

Where the christ is the date code on a tire (obviously on the sidewall)? And how do you read that poo poo? I've looked and never seen anything resembling an actual date....

honda whisperer posted:

I'm looking at brz / ft86 / frs etc as a new or possibly used car. They don't seem to have any massive issues from a quick google search, have I missed anything?

wargames posted:

so the fuel gauge in my 2011 ford focus is going insane and sometime doesn't read the fuel level from the tank, ford dealership quoted me 900 dollars to replace the entire instrument cluster. With modern electronic clusters I can just buy a junk yard cluster and replace it right?

Deteriorata posted:

You probably should get a code reader and find out what the code is before anybody can diagnose anything.

Godholio posted:

Like a steady flashing? Stop driving it until you can get the codes.

DogonCrook posted:

Was the iat a pending code?

DogonCrook posted:

Anyways id reset the computer and see if it comes back.

wargames posted:

Did this and still getting incorrect readings from my fuel gauge.

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

This is what's causing it to flash.

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

Which engine is in it, and how did they figure out it was a burnt valve? The 1MZ-FE (the later 3.0 V6) was very much a sludge monster unless you're religious about oil changes. The 4 cylinder wasn't nearly as prone to sludge. I don't think either are normally prone to burning valves, though the 4 cylinder is a bit painful to drive due to ~130 hp in a ~3400 lb car.

I'm pretty shocked they didn't even have a generic OBD2 reader. I'm guessing someone was lazy and thought it was a 95, maybe? Maybe they looked at the build date (as a "96" may be built as early as May 95) and just assumed it was a 95?

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

Yeah, taking it elsewhere isn't a bad idea. You need to do a compression test + leakdown test to properly diagnose a burnt valve.

If you haven't changed the oil (opting to just top it off), uh, well that would definitely explain sludge, though I'm wondering how the hell it got bad enough to attach to the dipstick. I'm assuming you actually do change your oil; maybe a rookie tech saw varnish on the dipstick and jumped straight to "it's got sludge"?

Why's it in the shop to begin with? I'm guessing it's running rough?

edit: just saw your 2nd reply. yeah, that's a decent symptom of a burnt or sticking exhaust valve, but a leakdown test needs to be done to confirm it.

Godholio posted:

The weak point of every Taurus until maybe the current Five Hundred-based generation is the transmission. If it's otherwise reliable, and the price is low enough that even if you end up replacing the transmission it's still affordable, they're fine rolling couches.

Deteriorata posted:

Can't be too picky at that price. It's a boring mid-sized car, but unless there's something major wrong it should be fine for the money.

It's basically a disposable car. Drive it until something expensive goes wrong, then dump it.

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

Insanely high if it's the 4 cylinder (and I seem to remember it being the 4).

You can tackle 2 of them yourself with a floor jack, block of wood, and hand tools (you basically put a block of wood [long enough to go past 2 corners of the pan] between the engine oil pan and jack, and lift it enough to R&R the mounts). Well, you could do all of them that way, but the rear one is a pain in the dick on most FWD cars. It's also kind of a pain to get it lined back up if the mounts were really bad.

If it's not vibrating too bad and not eating CV joints, I'd personally just ignore it, or replace the top and front ones in the driveway. But that's more because I'm lazy and cheap.

Christobevii3 posted:

I bought a 1982 Mercedes 300d for $500. Changed the battery and starts like new. Brake reservoir is low so going to probably get a bleeder and change the fluid, pads, and shocks at once. Got 4 new tires coming.

What else should i check besides basic fluid changes? Should i attempt the front and rear windshield gaskets? They're quite rotted but don't have a welder to repair rust i may find.

Gimpalimpa posted:

Here's some more pictures: https://imgur.com/a/HJDVfPJ . It feels like a hard rubber and it may have fell out around the point where the wheel attaches to the axel near where the rotor is.

Breakfast Feud posted:

Buy something around $2000, drive it for about 3 years, you might put in about $1500 in parts over the course of these 3 years but it ends up costing just over $1000/year

Motronic posted:

I don't know your car specifically, but in most cases the windshield molding needs to come off to replace the windshield, not the other way around.

Is it these pieces? https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2004_Corolla/Windshield-Molding/63139706/7553302050.html

Motronic posted:

I don't know what that means. Are you saying that is the same part or a different part than what I linked?

If you'r on phone or something and can't see that link these are the parts I'm talking about :

Krakkles posted:

It’s usually either “the thing that holds the windshield in” or what Painter described.

If the windshield is still in there, I’d bet on the latter. And fixing it ... depends on how much you care. I’ve definitely seen it fixed with a caulk gun pretty effectively.

AmbassadorofSodomy posted:

I seem to recall stories of Chevy Vegas rusting in the showrooms.

Eclipse12 posted:

97 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST manual transmission.

What is this electrical box underneath the cup holder/change tray in the center console?



This car has been full of surprises (not surprising is that everything is broken)