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Parts question / Rock Auto Car is a 2014 Hyundai Tucson, 2.4l So, we just got it and the lift supports for the rear hatch are not lifting all the way and need to be replaced. I'd rather do it myself because for a lot of reasons. Advance has them for ~$42 a piece, FDO. RockAuto has a "various mfr" brand that lists a right/left version, but it is out of stock with no price.... Which leaves me with a SACHS version that's $15, but doesn't specify right or left. Anyone ever heard of / used SACHS?
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Oct 13, 2017 16:39
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Sachs are a big name in car parts, including suspension stuff, so I'd imagine they can make a hatch strut well enough.
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Oct 13, 2017 16:42
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:According to nissan the 48km service on 2014+ cars is called maint#2? If that's true, and this is all it is, then it doesn't seem lengthy, expensive, or in dire need of being done until you reach the actual mileage. That's a really expensive oil change. $180 is what i'd expect to pay for an oil change on a nice german car that takes 6 liters of synthetic. Edit: I guess it depends what you normally pay somebody to lubricate your propeller shaft.
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Oct 13, 2017 16:42
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Twerk from Home posted:Edit: I guess it depends what you normally pay somebody to lubricate your propeller shaft. Usually they pay me...
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Oct 13, 2017 16:47
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InitialDave posted:Sachs are a big name in car parts, including suspension stuff, so I'd imagine they can make a hatch strut well enough. Okay, cool. Now, they only list one part number, but the ones on the vehicle have two different numbers. It's been a while since I've messed with lift supports. Can I use the same one for both sides and just rotate as needed to make it fit?
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Oct 13, 2017 16:58
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CornHolio posted:Where were you getting your parts? When I had my E36 I joked to a friend that my parts were cheaper than what he was getting for his Taurus. To date that is the cheapest car I've owned, per mile. Yeah I found BMW parts aren't any more than other brands especially in the US. Big cost would be BMW mechanics hourly rate because they seem to thing they should charge more just because. But for DIY they're pretty relaible and cheap, especially for 36 and 46. E34 parts are way higher due to their age. While there's some BMW folks here, I think my m50 has a timing chain rattle - it's just noisy under load between 1500-2500rpm so I think it's the tensioner. Has anyone used the one piece tensioner from pelican parts or is it better to get all the little seperate parts OEM? Does the pelican one even suit/fit 1990 non vanos m50s? I've only heard about the tensioner in E36 or later forums.
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Oct 13, 2017 16:59
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QuarkMartial posted:Okay, cool. Now, they only list one part number, but the ones on the vehicle have two different numbers. It's been a while since I've messed with lift supports. Can I use the same one for both sides and just rotate as needed to make it fit?
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Oct 13, 2017 17:01
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Basic Poster posted:Have access to an obdc reader? Did you clean the mass airflow sensor at the air intake manifold? I left it in San Diego when I transferred, unfortunately. I think I might just order another one, they're only like $15. I did take out the air flow sensor but I did not clean it. It didn't look dirty, and I remembered that touching one might damage it. From your response I guess that's not entirely true. I'll google how to do it. Thanks for confirming my research though. Hasn't happened since then (knock on wood), so maybe I knocked something loose.
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Oct 14, 2017 12:35
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Just got back from the shop with my 1996 Camry. They think it's a burnt valve. They also found some sludge in the oil. More disturbing was the fact that they said they didn't have the proper code reader. That's odd considering they did about two years ago when I took it in for a diagnostic. The car has the OBD-II port. So, it looks like it's time for another car.
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Oct 14, 2017 15:50
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Which engine is in it, and how did they figure out it was a burnt valve? The 1MZ-FE (the later 3.0 V6) was very much a sludge monster unless you're religious about oil changes. The 4 cylinder wasn't nearly as prone to sludge. I don't think either are normally prone to burning valves, though the 4 cylinder is a bit painful to drive due to ~130 hp in a ~3400 lb car. I'm pretty shocked they didn't even have a generic OBD2 reader. I'm guessing someone was lazy and thought it was a 95, maybe? Maybe they looked at the build date (as a "96" may be built as early as May 95) and just assumed it was a 95?
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Oct 14, 2017 16:14
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Which engine is in it, and how did they figure out it was a burnt valve? The 1MZ-FE (the later 3.0 V6) was very much a sludge monster unless you're religious about oil changes. The 4 cylinder wasn't nearly as prone to sludge. I don't think either are normally prone to burning valves, though the 4 cylinder is a bit painful to drive due to ~130 hp in a ~3400 lb car. It's the 4-cylinder (and yes, it's woefully under-powered for the size of the car). The mechanic just said he suspected it was a burnt valve. He found some crud on the dipstick. The engine has had a slow oil leak since I've had it. I just add oil as needed. They know it's a 96 since they tested it a couple of years ago. The manager said the tech probably used his own reader. Since they didn't charge me anything, I may take it to another shop and see what they say.
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Oct 14, 2017 16:20
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The mechanic said the exhaust tried to suck his hand in, which is apparently a symptom of a burnt valve. Why can't I edit my posts?
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Oct 14, 2017 16:26
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Yeah, taking it elsewhere isn't a bad idea. You need to do a compression test + leakdown test to properly diagnose a burnt valve. If you haven't changed the oil (opting to just top it off), uh, well that would definitely explain sludge, though I'm wondering how the hell it got bad enough to attach to the dipstick. I'm assuming you actually do change your oil; maybe a rookie tech saw varnish on the dipstick and jumped straight to "it's got sludge"? edit: just saw your 2nd reply. yeah, that's a decent symptom of a burnt or sticking exhaust valve, but a leakdown test needs to be done to confirm e2: goddamnit just looked back through the thread, realized you've posted about it already. Still gonna say you need to do both a compression and leakdown test to confirm, but if it's huffing exhaust fumes, yeah, time to figure out if you want to fix the car or replace it. I'd argue it's probably worth fixing if the rest of the car is in decent shape. e3: damnit you snuck that in while I was doing the OCD edit bit randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Oct 14, 2017 |
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Oct 14, 2017 16:31
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Yeah, taking it elsewhere isn't a bad idea. You need to do a compression test + leakdown test to properly diagnose a burnt valve. Actually, they (Tires Plus) changed the oil earlier this year. They asked me if I got a regular oil change or a "high-mileage" one. It was the regular one. They've never offered the other one. I saw the dipstick and it did have stuff on it. I don't know if he cleaned it off and then reread it or not. I took it in to see exactly what was wrong.
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Oct 14, 2017 16:35
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Mister Kingdom posted:Actually, they (Tires Plus) changed the oil earlier this year. They asked me if I got a regular oil change or a "high-mileage" one. It was the regular one. They've never offered the other one. Haha I don't think different oil would have made a difference in this case, what do the experts in here think? The pricier high mileage stuff seems like it might have a little more additives but not worth the premium yes?
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Oct 14, 2017 19:38
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High mileage oil is usually the same price as regular oil, if you do your own oil changes and buy 5 quart jugs. If you go to a quick lube place, they'll definitely mark it way up. I honestly have no idea if single quarts of high mileage still get marked up at parts stores; I've been buying the 5 quart jugs for several years, and rarely buy a single quart. Supposedly the additives cause seals to swell a bit? I've been running Mobil 1 high mileage in my car for a couple of years... almost 200k and no (oil) leaks that I can find, though the two times I've tried using cheap oil during an oil change, the car wound up drinking ~5 quarts between oil changes. So long as I run Mobil 1, it seems to use ~1.5 quarts between oil changes. My oil changes are long as hell (9k-ish), IMO 1.5 quarts in that time frame is drat good. I've owned it since a little over 60k, and the oil consumption has been pretty much the same since I bought it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Oct 14, 2017 |
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Oct 14, 2017 19:50
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Is there a subreddit or something for finding obscure parts probably from china? I've got a broken push latch with the numbers 29KO-3 2 on the bottom of it, which might not even be a part reference. It looks similar to this.  \edit: I think I'll be using a trash can latch. The measurements match... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGP9ZN6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Oct 14, 2017 |
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Oct 14, 2017 19:51
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:According to nissan the 48km service on 2014+ cars is called maint#2? If that's true, and this is all it is, then it doesn't seem lengthy, expensive, or in dire need of being done until you reach the actual mileage. Late reply, sorry! From our maintenance schedule booklet thingy:  IOwnCalculus posted:Pretty much the only time you'd want to change the oil on time instead of mileage is if you manage to go a year between oil changes. As long as you're within that window, just go on miles alone. This is mostly what I wanted to hear. Thanks! Question about that, though: If something goes screwy with the car will our warranty somehow be jeopardized because I wasn't  following the schedule?
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Oct 14, 2017 20:06
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Most owners manuals today suggest changing the oil once a year if you don't drive enough miles to go by mileage. So technically, you very likely are going by the manual. Keep receipts + records for everything to be safe, but it's generally unlikely you'll have a major breakdown while under warranty unless you're really flogging it.
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Oct 14, 2017 20:17
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:As far as I'm concerned, a garden hose itself has enough pressure that I'll just wrap one end in electrical or duct tape enough and jam it in a radiator hose. I realize this is an old post, but you can get hose connectors in either gender with a regular serrated nipple on the other end, in various sizes. Tractor Supply sells them, and I got one that would fit my heater hose, so I could use a short piece of hose to connect a hose directly to my block to flush it. Another thing that works well, instead of buying that water gun thing, is to start the hose going, unscrew the hose from the tap, and jam your air hose into the end of the water hose. That way you blast the whole contents of the hose (which, for a 50ft hose, is a decent amount of water) through the thing you're cleaning. Once it's empty, hook it back into the water tap and start over. The gun thing probably works better, but this way is pretty cheap and has worked for me in the past.
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Oct 15, 2017 00:39
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2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer, I6, 2wd, blue. Replaced the brake pads front and rear, and now both rear calipers seem to be sticking. I picked up a caliper rebuild kit because it was cheap and something I could do, but after cleaning the calipers and bleeding the brakes, both front calipers are still sticking. I was not the most gentle with the brake lines when I did the front, should I just go straight to replacing those? The calipers did not seem to release without force when I unhooked the top of the brake lines.
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Oct 15, 2017 02:04
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You could crack the bleeder and see if they back of a fraction, if you suspect a damaged hose is acting as a one-way valve. It's possible the pistons had some crud or corrosion on them from being in an out position with worn pads, and now they're pushed in, they're stickign a bit. I'd check that first if there's no other obvious tightness.
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Oct 15, 2017 02:28
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InitialDave posted:You could crack the bleeder and see if they back of a fraction, if you suspect a damaged hose is acting as a one-way valve. I've already had the calipers out and apart, cleaned and inspected the dust boot and seals. How much force should it take to free them up after I crack the bleeder? Even after opening the bleeder, it doesn't seem to free them up, at least as far as turning the rotor by hand.
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Oct 15, 2017 02:38
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Most owners manuals today suggest changing the oil once a year if you don't drive enough miles to go by mileage. So technically, you very likely are going by the manual. Good to know. Yeah I file away all of the service receipts whenever we get something done. Thanks for your help! Forgive me if this is too long for a stupid questions thread but I have another one, this time about tires. We have the stock Continental ContiProContact all-season ones that I'm now learning are utter garbage. The tread depth is in the red already so it's time to get them switched out for something less lovely. As stated we don't really do a lot of driving (this is a nearly 4-year old car with only 45,000 km / 28k miles on it). We live in the Vancouver area where there's a lot of rain and the winter climate is mild. Snow is uncommon but not unheard of and tends to be sloppy and short-lived. That said we did have a pretty nasty and cold winter here this year, but then we didn't drive and instead used transit until the snow and ice melted away again. We sometimes make trips through the mountains to Alberta, but never in the winter. I guess the problem is that I'm a little naive about what a good tire choice would be for our car and what a reasonable price would be to buy them and get them installed. I've been thinking of going for all-weather instead of all-season tires. It would be nice to have something a little more serviceable during those times when we may have to drive in the snow. The tire place up the road sells the Nordman WRs that seem suitable. Or are they perhaps overkill considering our lovely Continentals served us fairly okay? All-in buying and installing them there will be about $600 CAD (approx $480 USD). That sounds about normal, right? We have a $100 off coupon for the purchase which will bring it down to about $500. Last time we bought tires (winters for Calgary when we lived there, but we didn't take them with us) it was at Costco, which seem to only sell Michelin and BFGoodrich, and looking at their wares and deals the total cost of everything will be about the same anyway. They just don't have all-weathers, it seems. Or am I, as usual, overthinking poo poo and should just go with my first instinct (the Nordmans)? Also: When I was getting quotes the person on the phone asked about wheel/lugnut locks. I don't know if we have them. What's the easiest way to tell? Car stats again: 2014 Nissan Versa Note SV 45,000 km / 28,000 miles Mak0rz fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Oct 15, 2017 |
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Oct 15, 2017 02:43
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Continental Truecontacts generally rate pretty well. I'm curious as to why you're convinced they're lovely - almost no one else seems to think so. They seem to be a pretty good value. Edit: Here's Tire Rack's page on them. They're the top all-season tire there. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Oct 15, 2017 |
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Oct 15, 2017 02:51
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I've run into a problem replacing the rear wiper motor on a 2007 mercury mariner. The thing rotates when I try to remove the nut holding the unit on the glass. It's covered in rust and everything spins.. I can't get much access to anything and I think I need to cut it out. . Say I use a dremmel to cut it out, what do I have to worry about as far as the glass is concerned? Is heat a concern? I of course need to make sure to not hit the glass.
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Oct 15, 2017 03:01
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Deteriorata posted:Continental Truecontacts generally rate pretty well. I'm curious as to why you're convinced they're lovely Because they lasted only about forty thousand clicks  The ones we currently have are ContiProContacts, not TrueContacts. Would you recommend all-seasons over all-weathers, considering our location and driving habits?
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Oct 15, 2017 03:01
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I've got ContiProContacts and never had an issue with them; tread life ranges from 40k to 80k depending on which specific ones you've got. That said, you can certainly do better. User reviews on Tirerack are about to be your best friend.
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Oct 15, 2017 03:17
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Mak0rz posted:Because they lasted only about forty thousand clicks Ah, my bad. Yeah, the ProContacts are poo poo. drat these companies that give all their products near-identical names. The TrueContacts seem to be vastly superior for the same money. I don't know the difference between all-weather and all-season. It doesn't seem like you need much in the way of snow/winter grip, anyway. I'd look for a summer tire with good wet grip. Tread life is generally secondary to me. Good handling matters more, but YMMV.
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Oct 15, 2017 03:21
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^ Nah procontacts are fine.Godholio posted:I've got ContiProContacts and never had an issue with them; tread life ranges from 40k to 80k depending on which specific ones you've got. That said, you can certainly do better. Sup Conti buddy. They're nice and sticky for all seasons, good in the wet, relatively quiet.
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Oct 15, 2017 03:21
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Dyscrasia posted:I've run into a problem replacing the rear wiper motor on a 2007 mercury mariner. The thing rotates when I try to remove the nut holding the unit on the glass. It's covered in rust and everything spins.. I can't get much access to anything and I think I need to cut it out. My first instinct would be to try and snake some kind of tool up there to stop the movement then use a wrench. Maybe soak it in penetrating oil for a few days first. If you're going straight to cutting you definitely want to put in a piece of something, preferably plastic between the nut and the glass. Cardboard might work but it's kind of flimsy.
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Oct 15, 2017 03:47
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2005 Honda Pilot. Recently had brake work done about two months ago (fresh pad and rotors for entire car). Used the parking brake on a pretty big hill and had it parked for 3 hours. Disengaged parking brake to leave, had a loud pop noise happen. No brake light was indicated in dash. Car seemed to be a bit slow while driving, as well as "shakey" going over 40. There was also a burning smell when I got out of the car. Was this due to a rusty e brake cable or something similar, causing the brake to be slightly stuck on one tire? How do I fix this? Are things potentially very damaged?
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Oct 15, 2017 06:40
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Michael Scott posted:^ Nah procontacts are fine. ProContacts are the poo poo OEM tire. Nobody buys them on purpose. ExtremeContacts are much nicer in either DW summers or DWS all season.
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Oct 15, 2017 14:44
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Follow up on my drowsy Ranger. New battery, lots of rust on the hold-down bolt, wire brush applied to the battery connectors, problem solved. I'll give it a more thorough test today but it immediately seemed way better.
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Oct 15, 2017 15:22
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Breakfast Feud posted:My first instinct would be to try and snake some kind of tool up there to stop the movement then use a wrench. Maybe soak it in penetrating oil for a few days first. If you're going straight to cutting you definitely want to put in a piece of something, preferably plastic between the nut and the glass. Cardboard might work but it's kind of flimsy. Yea, the nut is on the shaft of the motor, there is a metal seal, about an inch and a half diameter surrounding it. There is such a small amount of thread visible that I can't get a grip to stop the spin.
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Oct 15, 2017 16:20
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Is there a trim panel somewhere behind you could take off and grasp the motor from there?
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Oct 15, 2017 16:23
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ExecuDork posted:Follow up on my drowsy Ranger. New battery, lots of rust on the hold-down bolt, wire brush applied to the battery connectors, problem solved. I had this problem all the time on my ranger. Ended up carrying a wire brush around for a while before I got better terminals put on.
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Oct 15, 2017 16:24
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:ProContacts are the poo poo OEM tire. Nobody buys them on purpose. They're fine. And 8 years ago they were the only all-season with a 5/8 WW available for 15" wheels for under $250 apiece. The WW appears to be out of production now, so I'll probably end up with Radial T/As next time.
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Oct 15, 2017 17:25
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Breakfast Feud posted:Is there a trim panel somewhere behind you could take off and grasp the motor from there? Yea, I have everything exposed, there is no access from the back. The replacement motors threads don't spin, the one I'm trying to remove is just corroded and broken. I should be able to safely dremmel the nut, and use cardboard to block sparks hitting the glass.
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Oct 15, 2017 20:22
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I brought my 08 Accord Coupe in for road noise thinking I had a bad bearing or something last week. The noise is coming from the back and gets pretty loud at 80km/h. The car's always been a bit loud for road noise, but it's been VERY noticeable lately. The shop tells me the back tires are done. Service manager told me on the phone they are feathered badly at the back due to bad alignment, the paperwork says they are cupped badly. I'm not good at eyeing tire wear, but they look cupped - not feathered - to me. They try to sell me new tires, but I decline as I'm a few weeks away from putting my winter tires on anyway. They sent me an alignment sheet with my report, but I really don't know what I'm looking at. I'm assuming the alignment was done correctly. My tires are about 2 years old, Aeolus Steering Ace XAS 235/45 R18 and at 7/32 back, 6/32 front. If I did rotate the backs to the front, would they eventually wear evenly, or am I stuck buying a new set? Spagghentleman fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Oct 16, 2017 |
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Oct 16, 2017 02:15
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