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SquirrelGrip posted:if you need parts let me know, we have a collection of sr20 bits downstairs and in storage on the coast I want a plastic oem under tray but I feel like asking a drifter for that is going to be unsuccessful.
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Jan 18, 2017 11:30
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Laserface posted:I want a plastic oem under tray but I feel like asking a drifter for that is going to be unsuccessful. The 180 downstairs is my housemates, reckons it's a throwaway part though? Unless you want a stock front bar as well, then u hosed And me no drifter, the mr2 is fun but not exactly made for that while 86 I dd definitely isn't getting wild unless it's wet. No oval office will let me drive their s chassis apparently so no drift until I get to japan
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Jan 18, 2017 11:45
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No legit just want the under tray because its lighter than the 4mm alloy plate I currently use. Also aerodynamics of keeping the air out of the engine bay. I want an oil cooler core and lines but I already sorta have both. And I want brackets to mount the core.
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Jan 18, 2017 12:37
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Check yo pm
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Jan 18, 2017 12:58
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Looks clean and straight. I would keep it since there are not going to be many others that can claim that.
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Jan 18, 2017 14:29
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Laserface posted:This is what I walk out to from my house every morning and probably why I cant let go of it. Ugh, that is gorgeous. Do not let it go I want one 
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Jan 18, 2017 15:28
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Please don't get rid of it! Your car is serving as the inspiration for me to finally finish my near-mint condition 93 240sx. I already swapped a S14 SR20 in, and just collected all the tools/parts needed to do my coilovers, 5 lug swap, and new wheels. After that I want to put the Type X exterior goodies on.
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Jan 18, 2017 15:38
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Look at Mr Laa Dee Dar here with his rare Type X exterior bits.
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Jan 18, 2017 15:40
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BigPaddy posted:Look at Mr Laa Dee Dar here with his rare Type X exterior bits. and interior bits, VIN, and year of manufacture  Its still loving misfiring under high boost. lowering the boost ramp seems to dampen the issue but if you want to fully experience second gear it tends to just fart flames and black smoke everywhere when you hit around 6000RPM. In other news I am doing a drift training day later in the year (not in my car) that I got for my birthday from the fam.
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Jan 18, 2017 23:27
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if you look at it side on the rear bar looks like lips sucking a fat exhaust dick
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Jan 18, 2017 23:33
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Laserface posted:Its still loving misfiring under high boost. lowering the boost ramp seems to dampen the issue but if you want to fully experience second gear it tends to just fart flames and black smoke everywhere when you hit around 6000RPM. How's the tune? What about the plug gap and heat range? No idea what's common for those cars but might be worth checking if you hadn't.
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Jan 19, 2017 03:11
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Larrymer posted:How's the tune? What about the plug gap and heat range? No idea what's common for those cars but might be worth checking if you hadn't. Yep first thing to check is the plugs and then the tune. After that it is the flow on the fuel system as it might be pushing more air it can feed fuel too. If not then it is time to check all the sensors and loom. Edit: oh and coil packs.
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Jan 19, 2017 03:22
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Larrymer posted:How's the tune? What about the plug gap and heat range? No idea what's common for those cars but might be worth checking if you hadn't. Tune is good. on a dyno it wont do it (because 4th gear pulls are a much slower boost ramp than second) Plugs are iridium in the correct heat range and gapped to .7mm. gapping them down doesnt fix it. Coil packs are Yaris coils - bolt on application with a new loom. they are good for up to 700HP. all new components.
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Jan 19, 2017 04:22
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Try swapping in a set of ngk coppers. Some cars just seem to get fussy about certain brands and materials.
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Jan 19, 2017 18:22
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Try swapping in a set of ngk coppers. Some cars just seem to get fussy about certain brands and materials. Have done that in the past and they start misfiring even quicker than the Denso Iridiums do.
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Jan 19, 2017 22:55
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There's only so many things it can be. Injectors, plugs, or your tune. What are you using for boost control? Not sure what you mean by "lowering the boost ramp" (aka why are you still building boost at 6k RPM?).
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Jan 20, 2017 02:10
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Larrymer posted:There's only so many things it can be. Injectors, plugs, or your tune. What are you using for boost control? Not sure what you mean by "lowering the boost ramp" (aka why are you still building boost at 6k RPM?). Injectors are 1150cc Bosch top feeds. plugs are Denso Iridiums (a Ford Falcon OEM part) which work fine for about 5000kms then start missing. NGK coppers start missing about 2500kms. I have gapped down to .5mm and even then, still misses. tune COULD be the problem. Boost 'ramp' i guess is just how aggressively the boost controller is holding boost. If I tell it to start managing boost at 18PSI (with a boost setting of 20PSI) its holding the actuator shut until it gets 18PSI as a reading and THEN opening the wastegate to manage boost control from there. lowering this to 16PSI or so seems to help alleviate the issue but leaves a big hole in the boost curve between 4 and 6 grand where it SHOULD be holding 20PSI but it hits 20PSI around 4 and then bleeds down to 17 or so and climbs back up. I can fill that hole in, but then it starts misfiring because the boost is climbing too aggressively and 'blowing out' the spark from what people have suggested. I really want to avoid going back to my tuner with yet another issue because its a hassle to get it looked at and still get to work as they arent near each other. possible solutions: increase dwell on the coils to give them a bigger charge. have been told this will kill the coils much quicker. new alternator that supplies more amps than OEM (nissan quest is a popular swap) Is misfire the incorrect term maybe? it basically sounds like a GTI with DSG, except its when I am in the mid-range, not shifting.
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Jan 20, 2017 03:44
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I'd say you're on the money, because that sounds just like what my 1JZ Mark II used to do when the plugs poo poo the bed. Was totally load or boost dependent (I'ma say boost), except it'd come on at about 6PSI, and everything would just break up. Given you're hitting 16 pound without issue, I'd guess the plugs are fine but as you say, the spark isn't keeping up with the boost pressure for whatever reason.
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Jan 20, 2017 07:45
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If you feed it in real slow it won't miss at all. Like if you downshift from 4th to 2nd and then mash it, it builds super quick and then farts a bunch. Basically if you aren't building boost outside of the dyno style run (wot from 1500rpm) it'll miss
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Jan 20, 2017 10:50
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Have you checked the MAP sensor? Those being on the way out can give symptoms as you describe.
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Jan 20, 2017 14:28
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That USED to happen and then I put in a new oem z32 MAF and it's gotten significantly better.
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Jan 20, 2017 22:05
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So at idle with no lights blower on, it's reading 13v. It's probably a lovely volt meter but worth chasing this up I assume. Ive seen it as low as 11v with AC on full and lights on. Could be battery, or alternator I guess?
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Jan 21, 2017 12:07
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If the car is on that usually means alternator but if the alternator it's pointlessly shoving at the battery that could also be a problem.
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Jan 21, 2017 14:15
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If it was the battery then the voltage would be ok but it would not hold a charge and just stop flowing power eventually. If under load it is hesitating and has low voltage then the resistance on the plugs due to the heat might be making it unable to spark.
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Jan 21, 2017 14:19
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the quest alternator is cool but you gotta drill it you can get a cheap but brand new p2m one that is only like a tiny 5amp increase or so but rather painless to install Cop Porn Popper posted:Try swapping in a set of ngk coppers. Some cars just seem to get fussy about certain brands and materials. fwiw i think i used copper ngks (bkr7e?) in the rb25 which i can only assume are nearly identical to the sr and it fixed my problem for a fraction of the price i asked around and the general consensus seems to be that the more expensive spark plugs are not only a waste of money but dont last long and also have more problems in older nissans, especially iridium ngks Thief fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jan 21, 2017 |
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Jan 21, 2017 19:44
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I THINK I fixed it. fuel pressure was sitting at 40PSI, so I increased it slightly to 43PSI and misfire appears to be gone. I did an oil change and moved the water temp sensor for the Engine watchdog to an actual water source. Was gonna put anti squeal grease on the brakes but I can live it for a few more weeks.
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Jan 22, 2017 09:25
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Well I think we had covered everything else, is the fuel pump uprated? Not sure if the standard one will like running at higher pressures for a longer amount of time especially if it is the original one and 20+ years old.
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Jan 22, 2017 14:24
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its still misfiring fuel pump is a deatschwerks DW300 it seems to only be an issue when the engine is up to temp.
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Jan 22, 2017 23:24
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Check some of the temp sensors, it might be keeping it in cold start mode and over fueling. Had an R32 GTR do that.
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Jan 23, 2017 00:15
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BigPaddy posted:Check some of the temp sensors, it might be keeping it in cold start mode and over fueling. Had an R32 GTR do that. have you ever seen it spray out slightly because of that?
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Jan 23, 2017 03:08
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My highly scientific testing has indicated that it only seems to occur under 80deg C water temp. Today was hot (32C) on my drive home. AC on full got it up to 95C sitting in traffic. Couple of second gear pulls from 4K and no misses. Turned off AC And she cools down quick to 78C and then farts everywhere doing the same pull. Soooo maybe the coolant sensor is off? I have noticed that my fuel economy last week was quite good with the AC on nearly every day to and from work, whereas the last few days I've had it off as weather has been cooler. It seems to make sense that it could be running cold start tune and being too rich?
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Jan 23, 2017 09:16
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Thief posted:have you ever seen it spray out slightly because of that? Not that I remember. It was more losing power under load and hot starts being hard as it was nearly flooding.
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Jan 23, 2017 13:48
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Do you have a wideband o2? IMO, all modded cars with custom tunes should get one. Not too expensive and they help tremendously with troubleshooting. You should be in closed loop (I would think) so the cold start stuff shouldn't apply. I don't know the Nissan ECM's well, though.
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Jan 23, 2017 13:52
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I could be wrong, but it sounds like the car is running too lean, not too rich. The air con probably make the car run a little richer, maybe.
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Jan 23, 2017 22:31
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I was turning the AC off once the extra load brought the temp up (AC on the SR20DET is a massive power hog) but I tested again this morning and its still doing it Sometimes it causes a sudden loss of power and other times it doesnt. Sometimes it causes a boost spike (presumably detonation in the exhaust) and other times it doesnt. Im going to call the tuner today and get it booked in. I will take him for a drive to show him what its doing because like i said, a dyno pull doesnt cause the issue at all - its gotta be a downshift or other high-RPM-low-gear scenario where the boost hits like a freight train
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Jan 23, 2017 23:43
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yeah I'd be seeing a tuner who will do some road tests. what ecu?
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Jan 23, 2017 23:57
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SquirrelGrip posted:yeah I'd be seeing a tuner who will do some road tests. what ecu? Factory ECU w/ Nistune and latest firmware/feature pack.
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Jan 24, 2017 00:10
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We got a new Office in the mountains and I am assisting with the refurbishment and upgrades. I get to come here every week now so Im using this road a lot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkxSucFA1C8 EDIT: to not entirely waste a post I got a new oil block and am in the process of sorting out lines and and mounting of oil cooler core and thermostat. Also looking for advice on plasti-dipping wheels - Want to just coat these white rear end in a top hat wheels in black plastidip because they dont stay clean any more. anyone done it, or is it too porous and just catches all the brake dust? Laserface fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 7, 2017 05:40
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Laserface posted:Also looking for advice on plasti-dipping wheels - Want to just coat these white rear end in a top hat wheels in black plastidip because they dont stay clean any more. anyone done it, or is it too porous and just catches all the brake dust? It's fine. Do a good 4+ coats on them. Also buy a pack of index or playing cards and line the outside of the rims where it meets the tire. I don't give a poo poo what people say on the internet about it peeling off easily, that poo poo got stuck down in little grooves on the tires for me once (and I did them in orange so I had to try and peel it off the tire) and it isn't work loving with that since the cards go in and out easily. As soon as you're done with the last coat, pull the cards out. Don't let them adhere to the dip that might peel off with your wheels. Careful in the lug nut area as sometimes it can start to peel in there when you torque your lugs. Same for the lug holes (not sure how big the hole is vs. socket size, if there's occasional rub from the socket, don't dip that area because it'll peel also). Cleaning is fine, I wouldn't use a pressure washer on the edges since it could peel but cleaning isn't really any different than before. Especially with a dark color it will be way less noticeable than what you've got now.
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Feb 7, 2017 13:13
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They make a plasti-dip specific spray for cleaning. It's not super pricey either.
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Feb 8, 2017 07:08
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