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How do your points look? Is the coil getting voltage when the ignition is in run AND start? How is the ground on the coil body? Sometimes those are very iffy, and if you just replaced it some nice paint could be providing some unwanted insulation. Do you have a new primary lead / have you checked to make sure the contacts actually contact and the cable has continuity?
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# ¿ Oct 29, 2015 23:41 |
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# ¿ May 1, 2024 21:36 |
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Lots of Pertronix units will not operate below x.y volts, 6.8 or something. Check the instructions for your unit, you may have to bypass or change the resistance wire based on what ignition model you have and what the primary resistance of your coil is. If it's not getting enough voltage, it just shuts off, no spark no nuthin. Also some will not fire below x RPM, but that is pretty specific.
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# ¿ Oct 31, 2015 00:46 |
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You mentioned your motor was a newer one, did they have an OEM electronic ignition by that time? Anyway, make sure that the spark module is also getting appropriate power. As far as I know they only cause the coil to discharge by temporarily grounding, so you should be seeing whatever start/run voltage across the coil unless it is constantly grounding it due to a fried output in the controller. Edit: This page seems pertinent, I guess by model year 73 everything used oem electronic setups. Neat! http://www.fourforty.com/techstuff/ignition.html Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Oct 31, 2015 |
# ¿ Oct 31, 2015 01:21 |
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Which harness is that? It looks like there are a bunch of connectors like that which all go to a fatty bulkhead passthrough. What does the mating plug look like? Hopefully you can still make out the colors on the wires entering the mating plug and swap as necessary.
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2015 16:24 |