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Sometimes on Amazon the 3m kit is less than $10 you own a Ferrari polish the shitbix dodges lights son
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Feb 7, 2016 06:51
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kimbo305 posted:I wonder if it's a fuel pump issue and not a battery issue? Did you load test the old battery or did you end up buying a new battery?
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Feb 7, 2016 10:55
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Extra posted:Did you load test the old battery or did you end up buying a new battery? I'm running the old battery and haven't swung by Autozone to test it yet. Might do that today.
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Feb 7, 2016 20:51
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Battery tested out fine. Twice, the car has had trouble firing once I key it on. The starter seems to crank easily, but it's just not sparking or something. Eventually, it catches. Two other times, it seems like the starter solenoid clicked furiously before catching, with the motor firing up right away. Just haven't nailed down the symptoms. Also, I just realized that I filled up 3/4 of the tank with premium, just cuz I'm so used to it. 
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Feb 8, 2016 05:54
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https://teamoneil.com/product/open-practice-day/ $20 / hour for practice runs on their really basic slalom and skid pad course. I would go, but I have rallyx the next day.
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Feb 8, 2016 22:50
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Give the poor mans prime a shot and see if it starts more easily that way. Need a large sample size to get a solid conclusion since it is random failure, but this could easily be a slightly leaky check valve in a returnless fuel system.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:40
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Coincidentally, Edmunds is having start issues on their SRT-8 now: http://www.edmunds.com/dodge/charger/2007/long-term-road-test/2007-dodge-charger-srt8-hard-start.html I don't have the slow cranks, just the fast ones with no sparking after :03.
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Feb 9, 2016 23:19
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Put the skidplate on today. Also tried to migrate from Picasaweb to Google Photos, which leads to pain in the rear end photo links. Got the Charger on my ramps:  There wasn't a great spot for the jackstands. Clearance is fine, but still not comfortable. As my friend had the longer arms, he did the unbolting and bolting, and I assisted:  We Kroiled the bolts as a precaution, but they looked really clean. Didn't present any problems coming out. The top side of the old plastic belly pan:  Salt is real, even up here. The wings on the side, as you can make out in the previous pic, help cover the steering rack boots. Super specific instructions molded on the bottom of the pan:  ~3 ft-lbs of torque. We decided to go a bit higher for the extra weight of the metal plate. Balanced the skid plate on a jack and slid it roughly into place:  Note the new bolts and washer that came with the kit. Brass bolts. We decided to put them on dry. The mounting slots are disconcertingly wide, despite the size of the washers. Like how hosed up are you expecting these cars to get and still decide it's worth puttng a plate on? Fiddling in the front bolts:  The front bolts screw into a clip that very easily detaches from its mounting lip, so it took a while to nudge one of them back into place. The hardware doesn't really feel up to holding the plate, but it's only 20lbs or so, 5lbs per corner. The rear threads are in the crossmember, which you can see here with no plate on: http://i.imgur.com/qckJMxs.jpg After a few passes to make things "pretty hand tight," making sure to cycle in the exact order prescribed on the belly pan instrutions, we got it on:  The forward circle is so you can replace the oil filter; the rear slot is for draining the oil pan. Clearly, the application is guarding against very large monolithic obstacles like curbs and human bodies, not rocks that could fly into the oil filter whole or deflect off the beveled sides at the steering rack or control arms. There's a full-length Charger skid plate in aluminum that offers much better protection: http://setina.com/skid-plates/, but it looks like it's for the 2011+ chassis. Not all that different, but maybe different enough. I'm thinking about getting some thinner sheet metal to bolt over the drain and oil filter holes. The first few rallyxs are on snow, so I'm not as worried about that right now. Really, all I needed to make my own skid plate was measurements. If I were handier and had more tools, I would definitely fabricate a wider one, going out to the skids on the crossmember at the back and I'm not sure what at the front, but certainly aiming to shield more of the suspension without getting in the way. We thought about putting the plastic belly pan under the skid plate for extra insurance, but decided that the ribbing on top of the pan wouldn't sit flush enough. While he was down there, my friend snapped some pics of the condition of the suspension and body. Things looked pretty good, except for the rust on these lines, which look awful:  
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Feb 14, 2016 05:59
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Skidplate looks great, maybe use some 16ga sheet from home depot to make access panels that cover the large holes? If you want something thicker, like 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4, post up dimensions and I'll see what I can find in my stockpile of drops and scraps, I work in metro north so I can give you stuff anytime if you're in the area. We have a plasma cutter too so if you bring a template I can probably cut the thing out for you in a couple minutes. The big lines near the... power steering rack? look pretty fine, that appears to be mostly surface rust. The cluster of 3 really rusty lines near what appears to be an AC compressor line in the second to last pic, though, I'd take a closer look at those, they look like close-to-pinholed brake lines. I really wish more manufacturers would start using cunifer for their brake lines, I'd gladly pay an extra $50 for cunifer lines and stainless flare nuts. kastein fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Feb 16, 2016 |
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Feb 16, 2016 22:06
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The rust on those brake lines? really bothers me. I just don't know how much labor is involved in replacing them, how they route to the 4 corners, etc. What I could see from the wheelwells when I checked out the car initially was not this bad. And what about the pair of lines running front-rear just above the boot in the last pic? Look like brake lines, too? I'll make some cardboard templates when I get a chance. They canceled the 2/20-21 event because of the weather. It's been so unseasonably warm (and will be this week) that the ground will be soft as poo poo and get torn up by the more advanced classes that can really dig their tires in. Sucks to get canceled this close, but I was able to cancel my motel res.
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Feb 16, 2016 22:20
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That's also definitely a brake line, since it appears to go out into the wheel well and then loop up over the mounting tab for the frame end of the brake hose. I agree it also looks concerning. With this being such a new car (ha, at least compared to my crapcan fleet) you can almost certainly buy brand new replacement lines prebent at the dealer and simply unscrew the old ones and bolt the new ones on. Or even maybe claim warranty, though I doubt it's still covered... The most annoying part is that cars are generally assembled in this order: 1. spotweld entire chassis together, e-galv dip, prime, paint 2. install heater core 3. install brake lines 4. install wiring harness 5. install rest of car ... so the brake lines can be a real pain in the dick to replace with prebent factory units after all the drivetrain stuff is in, unless you get lucky and there are unions in places or it's just easy to slide the new one in place. I'd have to look at it in person to really know for sure, I did the front to rear hardline on a coworker's 04 WJ grand cherokee and ended up having to mildly deform the new line, disconnect a bunch of emissions hoses, drop the front driveshaft, snake it up into the engine compartment through the ratsnest of wiring and hoses it was under, unbolt one end of the transmission crossmember to slip the line over it, then put it all back together. Still only took about 2 hours and that was the most annoying one on the whole vehicle, though. I'm not surprised about Stafford, though I am somewhat disappointed, I was considering heading down for it since I am only about 20min from there and had fun spectating at the 2013 event where a handful of cars hydrolocked. It's been a real mild winter this year, aside from getting our asses frozen off last weekend.
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Feb 16, 2016 22:24
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kastein posted:... so the brake lines can be a real pain in the dick to replace with prebent factory units after all the drivetrain stuff is in, unless you get lucky and there are unions in places or it's just easy to slide the new one in place. I'd have to look at it in person to really know for sure, I did the front to rear hardline on a coworker's 04 WJ grand cherokee and ended up having to mildly deform the new line, disconnect a bunch of emissions hoses, drop the front driveshaft, snake it up into the engine compartment through the ratsnest of wiring and hoses it was under, unbolt one end of the transmission crossmember to slip the line over it, then put it all back together. Still only took about 2 hours and that was the most annoying one on the whole vehicle, though. This is sadly true. I dealt with it a long time ago with a '93 Cadillac STS. It was a fantastic car, in great shape... everything was perfect, condition-wise, except the brake lines. They rotted to gently caress and one started to leak on me. The more I looked into it, the more I saw that I couldn't cut and piece replacements in, since every run was in bad shape and fixing one area put enough strain to make the adjacent areas fail. I ended up selling the car instead of replacing the lines, since prebent lines weren't available and that job was more of a pain in the rear end than it would have been worth.
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Feb 16, 2016 23:22
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It really only takes a half day or so to run them all by hand even if you're fairly OCD about bending them the same way the factory did. I've done it before on some of my cars. I'm lazy though so if prebent ones are available and cheap (for reference, the master cylinder to front right wheel one for my XJ cost me a whopping 17 dollars prebent and in a monstrous cardboard box, and the one for the WJ I mentioned was like, 25 bucks, from the dealer!) and not ridiculously impossible to install without stripping the vehicle bare, I'll use them. I bet the lines are like 20 bucks a pop from Dodge, and probably still available.
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Feb 16, 2016 23:36
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kastein posted:I'm not surprised about Stafford, though I am somewhat disappointed, I was considering heading down for it since I am only about 20min from there and had fun spectating at the 2013 event where a handful of cars hydrolocked. It's been a real mild winter this year, aside from getting our asses frozen off last weekend. Do you know that guy Ty who runs his XJ?
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Feb 16, 2016 23:54
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The main reason I'm down in az is to replace all the hard lines on my uncle's yukon that came here from ontario. Unclear on what has to happen to get them all in/out, I have read on some forums that maybe the body needs to come off the frame and the fuel tank dropped, which if that is true I will recommend they get a new car to keep down here. Have a line kit from classic tube and am going to try to get it on a lift at my friend's shop this week to check out. gently caress this is going to suck. Everything is rust under there and there's a small coolant leak coming from the rear heater assembly area.
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Feb 16, 2016 23:56
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kimbo305 posted:Do you know that guy Ty who runs his XJ? I don't think so, what does he generally use as a forum name? Pic of said XJ?
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Feb 17, 2016 00:02
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jamal posted:yukon GM is the common sucky denominator with rusted brake lines. The '05 Rendezvous I had showed the same signs of corrosion... how can GM make a car that holds up to rust, but says "gently caress it" with brake line material?
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Feb 17, 2016 00:03
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There was even an nhtsa investigation on them because failed lines is common on that era of truck. But no, it was determined that the hard lines are a wear item that need to be inspected and it is the owners' fault for not keeping the bottom of the car clean in rust prone areas.
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Feb 17, 2016 00:39
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What's the typical failure mode for rusted brake lines? Poorer braking? Fluid reservoir getting dirty and low quickly?kastein posted:I don't think so, what does he generally use as a forum name? Pic of said XJ? I dunno if this is the one he ran a few years ago, or if he got another less beat one: https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/457506_10100442954302879_1234007406_o.jpg
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Feb 17, 2016 03:32
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Well if there's a hole in the brake line your can't build any pressure, and the fluid all leaks out. Thankfully with a dual diagonal system you can still stop a few times. I've told the story before but this truck has had a line fail and be patched by the dealer twice, and never properly bled because they were afraid to touch the rusted bled screws, and told my uncle he needed all new calipers, a booster, and an MC, while offering to do nothing about the lines "because that would be a lot of work and expensive." I replaced the screws and bled the brakes and they work fine.
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Feb 17, 2016 03:47
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Argh -- I went downstairs to measure the holes for patches that kastein offered to cut, and the car wasn't there. Forgot that I street parked it to vacate the spot for the 348. It hasn't been dry enough to drive it back from the shop, so I'll try to pull the Charger back in and measure in peace.
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Feb 17, 2016 04:20
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jamal posted:The main reason I'm down in az is to replace all the hard lines on my uncle's yukon that came here from ontario. Unclear on what has to happen to get them all in/out, I have read on some forums that maybe the body needs to come off the frame and the fuel tank dropped, which if that is true I will recommend they get a new car to keep down here. Have a line kit from classic tube and am going to try to get it on a lift at my friend's shop this week to check out. I did exactly this on my 2003 Escalade, it should probably be similar for yours. I was able to get all of the prebent SS lines in place without too much trouble actually. Everything would have been great - if the *~CUSTOM FIT LINES~* had actually fit properly, and not have been ~8 - 12" too long in front. What ended up happening was I smushed them into place, decided that was janky and lovely and decided not to do it that way, and ordered a line flaring kit so I could cut and reflare them in the proper lengths. Long story short, the flaring kit arrived but was kind of hosed up, by the time I got a working kit it was too cold to do the job. Didn't have the motivation to do it last summer either, and it's been sitting since then. I have to do that this summer hopefully. I also got a set of Goodridge stainless lines to connect to the calipers, but some of those fittings leaked - I then read that some of their fittings were made at the wrong angle or something (?) and the flares don't match. The solution for this is apparently little copper gaskets that you put between the stainless and hardline. I got my prebent line kit from Inline Tube, who was terrible about the whole thing and did not offer me the tiniest bit of an attempt to make it right, aside from offering to sell me another new pair of front lines (the same ones that didn't fit) at full price. gently caress you, Inline Tube. Never again. e: I didn't have to take the body off the frame, nor drop the tank. I did this all in my driveway with hand tools. I was able to route everything without touching the suspension / tank. It did take a bit of patience wiggling everything through to get it where it needed to go though. kimbo305 posted:What's the typical failure mode for rusted brake lines? Poorer braking? Fluid reservoir getting dirty and low quickly? I had a dash cam running when mine went. It's not really spectacular, but here's the vid anyway: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ve6gqfIWq_A The grinding noise you hear is the ABS churning (it was a slippery bridge, at close to freezing temps). The dinging is after the line blew and the car sensed something was wrong (and I had no brakes). I had no warning at all. I was extremely lucky that the semi next to me had moved left to the turn lane for the expressway entrance, otherwise I would have been in his wheels. I was able to coast up to a parking lot entrance past the light on the left, and kind of slowly drift into it. The funny part was, it wasn't a hardline that actually blew - it was one of the stainless flex hoses in the engine compartment. All of the lines were incredibly corroded though, and the most vulnerable ones had been patched multiple times. There were 4 patches in the lines I pulled out, IIRC. e: I forgot I took a video of the leak afterwards as well. You can't really see it, but the brake fluid mist is coming from a split section of braided stainless under the MC: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUdtdmZLA2U Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Feb 17, 2016 |
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Feb 17, 2016 04:58
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The kit I got is from classic tube, they are pre bent stainless. From what I can tell they fit fairly well. Don't remember if we ordered the flex lines to the calipers too.
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Feb 17, 2016 05:08
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jamal posted:The kit I got is from classic tube, they are pre bent stainless. From what I can tell they fit fairly well. Don't remember if we ordered the flex lines to the calipers too. That's what I thought too...mine were bent in all the right places, but the problems came up when I went to connect them to the junction under the driver's door. They overshot it by a significant amount.
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Feb 17, 2016 05:13
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Probably a year split or model wheelbase difference they weren't aware of, so their application info was overly broad. Kimbo - well sometimes the brakes get mushy anywhere from a few minutes to a few weeks beforehand, but not always. Usually the pedal just drops halfway to the floor unexpectedly when you hit the brakes kinda hard and then you don't stop very well. On cars I don't trust, I slam the brake pedal as hard as I can while still parked to test the lines before driving, though this may of course blow the lines a bit prematurely and leave you stranded, it's better than stranded with broken brake lines at an unexpected time - and exchanging insurance info with whoever you hit.
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Feb 17, 2016 13:27
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jamal posted:Well if there's a hole in the brake line your can't build any pressure, and the fluid all leaks out. Thankfully with a dual diagonal system you can still stop a few times. To be fair breaking off a bleed screw really sucks. :P Also yes that video with the brake failure, ABS will freak out because when you brake on two wheels they lock up very easily thanks to the other two not helping at all, even on dry pavement. It feels really weird. If you lost all four then I have no idea what happens as fortunately I have not done that!
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Feb 17, 2016 13:47
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CharlesM posted:If you lost all four then I have no idea what happens as fortunately I have not done that! If that happens, you'd better hope that you didn't put off adjusting your emergency brake and/or your transmission is happy to downshift on command.
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Feb 17, 2016 14:02
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jamal posted:The kit I got is from classic tube, they are pre bent stainless. From what I can tell they fit fairly well. Don't remember if we ordered the flex lines to the calipers too. I just did this same job using pre-bent SS lines (Dorman, though I imagine they're similar) on an 01 Silverado, so I'll offer up what I know. I only did the 4 lines, (2 from the master cyl/prop valve, and the 2 fronts to wheel well). These 4 aren't that bad, but it's probably a day of work and you're going to need some help from another person to feed the lines. Otherwise it's a pain in the rear end doing it alone since the passenger front is about 15 feet long. The main ABS module is under where the driver sits and access is pretty good. I unbolted the cab in a few places (beware, these can break and you're in bad shape then so don't push it if they aren't coming loose) to get a little more clearance. On the driver's front the 4 lines go between the cab and frame so it buys you a couple inches of space unbolting it, which helps. I'm sure it could be done otherwise but I got lucky and mine came undone so I took those precious inches.  To do the rears for my truck you have to remove the bed or the tank, but supposedly dropping the tank isn't that bad especially if it's close to empty. I will likely pull the bed this summer since it's easier but I imagine that's not really an option in your case. My rear line was ok for now but I'll do it in the summer since the big fucker doesn't fit in my garage and I'm sure as poo poo not doing that job with snow on the ground. Also, this will be helpful when you go to reassemble.  Sorry for the derail. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Feb 17, 2016 |
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Feb 17, 2016 14:09
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All this brakeline chat, and no mention of Cunifer lines? It's a copper/nickel/iron alloy that's: 1. Corrosion-proof. 2.Easy to bend. 3. Easy to flare. 4. Relatively inexpensive. 5. Available at NAPA. 6. Did I mention easy to bend/flare? I had to replace the line to the rear axle on my old 2500HD (see image above), and ran Cunifer. So loving easy to work with.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:38
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I actually mentioned it around 4 last night, but didn't suggest it really. If the factory lines are designed in such a way that dropping new ones in isn't too painful, I'd go that route just because it's easier than bending up new lines yourself and by the time they rot out again it'll be 2026 and this thing will probably be in a junkyard. But if it's a pain in the dick to snake new OEM lines in... cunifer all the way. That stuff is a dream to work with, I used it on my forester and will be using it on every vehicle I make brake lines for in the future. e: if you need to do double flares on 3/16 / 4.75mm line, OEM tool 24364 is what you want. Bubble flares or other tubing sizes, you need something else.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:53
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I think rusty brake lines is something that I'd gladly have a shop tackle. I would feel sorta bad if they worked on book hours for stuff that was really hard to extract and put back in. I remember when I was in that Factory 5 project thinking that even attaching brand new prebent lines looked like a big hassle, though part of that might have been the lovely tools that F5 packed with the kit.
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Feb 18, 2016 03:27
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sharkytm posted:All this brakeline chat, and no mention of Cunifer lines? I've used these before and they're amazing. You can bend them with your hands if you're careful and they last longer than the car you're putting them in.
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Feb 18, 2016 08:03
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Thanks brake line chat.
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Feb 18, 2016 08:12
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Goddammit, a couple days after I register for the next event in the season, the site owner cancels for the same reason -- no snow and too wet. With the weather going the way it has, I might have bought these snow tires for nothing. Would be a bit posh to run them in the dirt just for their soft compound and sipes.
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Feb 27, 2016 00:04
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Is cunifer the same thing as inconel just in a different order and using the periodic table abbreviation
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Feb 27, 2016 16:38
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Cunifer uses copper, whereas inconel uses chromium.
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Feb 27, 2016 16:44
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Talking about alloys is always going to be filled with words like "mostly" and "sometimes". That being said; Cunifer = copper (Cu), nickel (NI), iron (Fe). Inconel has lots of different compositions, but all are mostly nickel, with chromium as the second element (or as they called it when I learned this poo poo "Nicrofer": nickel (NI), chromium (Cr), iron (Fe)).
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Feb 27, 2016 17:17
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Read through this trying to decide if I should tackle it on my own: http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/heres-how-you-can-replace-your-rusty-brake-lines-1763227864 That final picture made it a no for me. Super demotivated after the 2nd event got cancelled. The next event is late April. Although by then, it should be rocks, and these patches kastein's offered to cut out for me will be relevant.
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Mar 7, 2016 21:52
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I went through my stockpile of scraps and the thinnest plate I have in the right sizes is... either 1/4" or 3/8" steel. Probably WAY thicker than we should use. Given that, what thickness and material would you prefer, if you don't have material on hand or on order? I can keep an eye on the local steel shops drop racks. Most evenings work for me, I just have no material to work with yet, unfortunately.
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Mar 7, 2016 22:31
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kastein posted:I went through my stockpile of scraps and the thinnest plate I have in the right sizes is... either 1/4" or 3/8" steel. Probably WAY thicker than we should use. Given that, what thickness and material would you prefer, if you don't have material on hand or on order? I can keep an eye on the local steel shops drop racks. Gonna use threadcerts to attach them? I'm a huge fan of the good serrated ones, especially in materials <1/4" thick. I've got some 3/16" plate, but it's rusty as gently caress, acting as a jackplate in the driveway for several years.
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Mar 7, 2016 23:30
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