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simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


Or people with a VPN, which is most people these days or so it seems

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uXs
May 3, 2005

Mark it zero!
So I just read that Selah Schneiter, a 10-year old girl, climbed El Capitan.

What kind of irresponsible jackass allows his 10-year old to do something that dangerous? gently caress.

nsaP
May 4, 2004

alright?
The climb was probably safer than the drive to it

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

quote:

"She talked about it really for a number of years,'' her father said. "We started kind of hatching a plan, like if we're going to do this, you need to do a series of steps, like goals to get there. I said, 'Well if we can kinda get to that point where I feel like we're ready, we can give it a go.'

"She just did great preparing for it, training for it. I really felt like, OK, maybe we have a chance... Just go give it a shot. We could always come down if it wasn't working."

quote:

[Mom:] "I knew that they would turn back if they needed to, and I knew that, of anyone, Mike was the person who would keep her safe up there."

quote:

It's worth noting that Mike [her dad] wears many hats that pertain to teaching and guiding. He's been a high school teacher for 20 years; he coached track for quite a while; and in addition to his guiding company he is also an adjunct professor at Colorado Mountain College, where he teaches climbing-related skills, and he certifies single-pitch instructors for the AMGA.
Yeah gently caress that reckless moron!!!
https://www.today.com/news/10-year-old-selah-schneiter-becomes-youngest-person-climb-el-t156641
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19s/newswire-10-year-old-selah-schneiter-summits-nose

It isn't really an Everest death zone thing since you're roped in the whole time and it doesn't get harder as you go up. If she was limited to smaller climbs and somehow fell from 100 feet, she would be just as dead as falling from 3000 feet.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

nsaP posted:

The climb was probably safer than the drive to it

Yup. I saw some footage of this story while I was at the gym yesterday. She's roped in and helmeted and accompanied by an attentive and skilled co-climber 100% of the time, the weather was perfect, they had a safe and fairly quick "out" at any time if there's a problem, it's not particularly high altitude, and she'd been working up to that level of climbing for years, so tests of e.g. her calmness, ability to follow instructions, physical fitness, etc. have all been done already.

Safer than people who let their kids for example do motocross, go surfing, or even just bicycle on busy roads.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

nsaP posted:

The climb was probably safer than the drive to it

it was, 100% guaranteed.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
I feel like it's formative doing something dangerous got the first time; I wonder if that plays into her training regimen and mental state throughout.

spacing in vienna
Jan 4, 2007

people they want us to fall down
but we won't ever touch the ground
we're perfectly balanced, we float around
til no one is here, do you hear the sound?


Lipstick Apathy

PostNouveau posted:

Watching "The Summit" on Hulu, about the 2008 disaster on K2 that killed 11 people.

It's weird because they all seem to agree the rope crew hosed up leading to a late start, and an avalanche took out a climber with the ropes all the people above them needed, and then everything is just a confused blur after that because everyone spent so long above 8,000 meters, and then the survivors point fingers for the rest of their lives.

I read Buried in the Sky, an amazing book about the 2008 disaster that really dives into the Sherpa side of things.

One of the Pakistani HAPs who was supposed to coordinate between all the groups became violently ill with HAPE at camp 2 or 3. The resulting communication breakdown -- many of the HAPs speaking various languages but none in common, and no clear idea of who was now in charge -- led to the initial delays described in setting up the ropes near the bottleneck.

fuzzy_logic
May 2, 2009

unfortunately hideous and irreverislbe

Just finished both Into Thin Air, and Climbing High, which is by one of the survivors from Fischer's team, Lene Gammelgaard. It's interesting to see the 2 different viewpoints but Krakauer's book hardly mentions Gammelgaard at all (maybe she refused interviews because she was writing her own book?) and I don't know if it's the translation, or some kind of cultural mismatch with Scandanavians but holy poo poo she comes across like a huge rear end in a top hat. You do get more background on what it's like to prepare in the weeks leading up to the trip and stuff like that, and she describes the hostels and stuff where you stay below base camp but a lot of it is stream of consciousness rambling about Eastern wisdom and woo and mental fortitude, and where Krakauer really seemed to avoid directly blaming anybody, if you wanted to read a book by someone who just shits all over everybody else on the expedition holy poo poo. Gammelgaard seemed to be really close with Boukreev and falls all over herself to defend him, she actually tried to summit without oxygen as well and has a huge poo poo fit when Fischer forbids it. Like, absolutely embarassing levels of meltdown. On the one hand I have to give her a hand for putting it in the book because if it was me I would've quietly edited that out but I don't know if she realizes how badly she comes across. Anyway if you want to get a feel for how dysfunctional the Mountain Madness team was it's not a bad followup if you don't mind skimming paragraphs of rambling. It seems like the group didn't work cohesively at all, everybody was out doing their own thing and Boukreev and Gammelgaard in particular being loners. Boukreev didn't even start the summit with the rest of the team, he wanted to start from a lower elevation and they couldn't come to an agreement so he went down himself and then set out separately and overtook them. Just a lot of weird poo poo like happening that probably would've been unorthodox but fine, right up until it wasn't.

nsaP
May 4, 2004

alright?
Something I have come to experience myself with climbers of all types is that for most of them, climbing is an individual sport. However it typically requires other people. While I’m sure altruistic teams of climbers exist, most do not have that attitude.

Morbus
May 18, 2004

I don't know, I think the vast majority of (certainly recreational) mountain climbing is done on a pretty firm consensus decision-making basis, among small groups of people who know each other well and climb together often. Some degree of altruism is pretty necessary...climbing partners are hard to come by and a lot of them are close friends or spouses / significant others. There is also almost inevitably some amount of a mentor/novice dynamic in most (non-professional) groups.

Things are obviously very different when you've got a group of extremely talented and ambitions professionals, who don't all know each other well, pushing the envelope of the sport as part of a paid (and possibly sponsored or otherwise monetized) expedition. But I think the dynamics at play there are, for the most part, very different than what most people participating in the sport deal with.

MisterOblivious
Mar 17, 2010

by sebmojo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bchx0mS7XOY

Skippy McPants
Mar 19, 2009


You bury the lede: https://thetopofmounteverest.com/#home

Skippy McPants fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Jun 24, 2019

Empty Sandwich
Apr 22, 2008

goatse mugs
https://newrepublic.com/article/154201/ive-climbed-everest-21-times-its-not-mountain-used-be

Interesting piece by a Sherpa guide.


quote:

I didn’t get that much money from portering. So when I became older, I became a trekking guide. It’s very risky, very dangerous, but you get a little more money. So I started climbing these smalls peaks—6,000 meters. I didn’t summit Everest, which is about 8,800 meters, until 1990.

The first time I climbed to the top, I was excited for the adventure. But to me, it was my job. And it was a very dangerous job. Once, in 2006, two of my Sherpa climbers got buried when ice collapsed in the Khumbu Icefall. One of the climbers was my niece’s husband. Despite many rescue efforts, we were never able to recover their bodies. I had to return back home to my niece without her husband.

Alan Smithee
Jan 4, 2005


A man becomes preeminent, he's expected to have enthusiasms.

Enthusiasms, enthusiasms...

fuckers didn't even have the decency to monetize it


jesus, green boots is one thing, going MIA like that forever? Goddamn

LastCaress
May 8, 2004

bonobo

AWarmBody posted:

Exactly how hard is the trek to base camp? Are there any risks? Because that sounds pretty loving awesome to do, honestly.

It's an easy walk, not very physical.

just came back from holidays, 9900km driving and 13 mountains in three weeks, mont blanc in bad weather was pretty hard.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007



The John Oliver thing is great.

smug jeebus
Oct 26, 2008
Congratulations Leperflesh I knew you could do it

Old Boot
May 9, 2012



Buglord
This is the most random loving thing, but I finally managed to watch Doctors in the Death Zone, and while I was watching, something caught my attention.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22rzD70s7gE

This is the song that was playing when they made it to the summit.

I've loved this guy's stuff for a while now, this is one of my favorite tracks off the album, so it tripped me out to hear it in some Everest documentary. Or anywhere, for that matter.

Anyway, good thread, even with the ups and downs and random conniption fits of 'grow a conscience.' This is one of the few that I've read start to finish in a surprisingly short amount of time, and it has an irritating habit of making me want to get off my sedentary rear end and actually do stuff.

Old Boot fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Jun 29, 2019

ZombieLenin
Sep 6, 2009

"Democracy for the insignificant minority, democracy for the rich--that is the democracy of capitalist society." VI Lenin


[/quote]

Old Boot posted:

This is the most random loving thing, but I finally managed to watch Doctors in the Death Zone, and while I was watching, something caught my attention.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22rzD70s7gE

This is the song that was playing when they made it to the summit.

I've loved this guy's stuff for a while now, this is one of my favorite tracks off the album, so it tripped me out to hear it in some Everest documentary. Or anywhere, for that matter.

Anyway, good thread, even with the ups and downs and random conniption fits of 'grow a conscience.' This is one of the few that I've read start to finish in a surprisingly short amount of time, and it has an irritating habit of making me want to get off my sedentary rear end and actually do stuff.

Doing stuff is good! Just don’t go from sedentary to trying to climb 8km mountains. It would suck if the thread became about you.

That’s what this thread has taught me.

Old Boot
May 9, 2012



Buglord

ZombieLenin posted:

Doing stuff is good! Just don’t go from sedentary to trying to climb 8km mountains. It would suck if the thread became about you.

That’s what this thread has taught me.

Sorry, friend, dreams of being the first bi woman with a bad smoking habit to summit cannot be crushed that easily.

gschmidl
Sep 3, 2011

watch with knife hands

If anything this thread has made me want to get to Nepal and go to Namche Bazar or Tengboche... then, instead of suicide by mountain, I'll just go back.

LastCaress
May 8, 2004

bonobo

gschmidl posted:

If anything this thread has made me want to get to Nepal and go to Namche Bazar or Tengboche... then, instead of suicide by mountain, I'll just go back.

Namche Bazar is just the start of the trip, you can go to kalahpattar and gokyo peak, or even everest base camp. There's plenty to see.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

Old Boot posted:

Sorry, friend, dreams of being the first bi woman with a bad smoking habit to summit cannot be crushed that easily.

see thats what i've got going for me. there's very little left on this earth that i could be the first mediocre white dude to do, so i'm safe from the death zone

hailthefish
Oct 24, 2010

Congratulations, you're officially the first mediocre white dude to recognize he's not magically special somehow!

Anne Frank Funk
Nov 4, 2008

hailthefish posted:

Congratulations, you're officially the first mediocre white dude to recognize he's not magically special somehow!

I’m Polish so I’m claiming to be the first mediocre white dude to recognize he's not magically special somehow in winter. #IceWarriors

gschmidl
Sep 3, 2011

watch with knife hands

LastCaress posted:

Namche Bazar is just the start of the trip, you can go to kalahpattar and gokyo peak, or even everest base camp. There's plenty to see.

*narrows eyes* That sounds like a trap.

e: never mind, I just found this amazing offer for a mere $100,000: https://www.furtenbachadventures.com/en/program/flash-expeditions/everest-flash/

gschmidl fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Jun 30, 2019

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

hailthefish posted:

Congratulations, you're officially the first mediocre white dude to recognize he's not magically special somehow!

rip the e/n feminism thread, the place where i first wrapped my mind around that idea

also while i was in jest, there actually still are peaks on earth that have never been summited. i think one of em is for local religious reasons (hard to argue when you hear about the garbage and poo poo swamp at everest base camp). but with most of em it's a combination of presenting very difficult climbs plus being super remote with no local population nearby to exploit, making the approach itself insanely expensive and dangerous. i think most of em are in northern greenland and antartica iirc

e: huh, looks like they're almost all in the himalayas. guess i remembered wrong. of course this article itself cites the extreme difficulty in definitively stating both what prominence is required to count as a "summit" (varies greatly and can be as little as 98 feet) and definitively stating no record of a successful ascent exists, since there's no centralized repository of records and what records exist are always unstandardized and often unreliable
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highest_unclimbed_mountain

Cactus Ghost fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Jun 30, 2019

gschmidl
Sep 3, 2011

watch with knife hands

Tthe most famous unclimbed mountain is probably Kailash. Messner even had the permit at one point but decided against summiting.

Alan Smithee
Jan 4, 2005


A man becomes preeminent, he's expected to have enthusiasms.

Enthusiasms, enthusiasms...
Is there a gauntlet of buzzsaws

Do dragons be there

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

when the antarctic ice cap melts it will reveal some more mountains for people to be the first to climb

Haifisch
Nov 13, 2010

Objection! I object! That was... objectionable!



Taco Defender
We just gotta work on being able to ship people to Mars, then they can race to be the first to climb the tallest mountain in the solar system.

Anne Frank Funk
Nov 4, 2008

Haifisch posted:

We just gotta work on being able to ship people to Mars, then they can race to be the first to climb the tallest mountain in the solar system.

Without supplemental oxygen

Alan Smithee
Jan 4, 2005


A man becomes preeminent, he's expected to have enthusiasms.

Enthusiasms, enthusiasms...
First gaynadian to summit the face on mars

Bobby Digital
Sep 4, 2009

Anne Frank Funk posted:

Without supplemental oxygen

He’s in his 70s now but Messner could do it :allears:

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

Haifisch posted:

We just gotta work on being able to ship people to Mars, then they can race to be the first to climb the tallest mountain in the solar system.

that'd just be two trips over the horizon up a <1% grade

Potato Salad
Oct 23, 2014

nobody cares


First non-climber, non-pilot Bulgarian-Argentinian to carry a ship to the top of Olympus Mons and blast off to Earth

Potato Salad
Oct 23, 2014

nobody cares


*without oxidizer

Potato Salad fucked around with this message at 12:37 on Jul 1, 2019

Alan Smithee
Jan 4, 2005


A man becomes preeminent, he's expected to have enthusiasms.

Enthusiasms, enthusiasms...
first polish to show up drunk with no space ship or suit, get buried in dust avalanche, brush self off and then return home still drunk

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Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/stories-48800535/everest-queues-this-person-had-crampons-on-the-wrong-feet

The title says it all really

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