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WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
MSI 10x0 pcbs (and the coolers mounted on them) are pretty huge though. That can be a problem if you have an small case or a prebuilt. You can just about squeeze an EVGA GTX 1060 into a Dell XPS 8x00 case for example but you can forget about an MSI GTX 1060 gaming.

The MSI pcb is slightly too tall and too long. You have 1 or 2 mm clearance to plugin the 8 pin power connector. Its never going to happen unless you fancy cutting metal or you can somehow remove the steel frame that supports the optical and hdd drive cages.

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WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

Sankis posted:

I'm close to pulling the trigger on this and wanted some thoughts before doing so. I've a few concerns and questions:

I've never had to install a 3rd party cooler before. Will I need to purchase Artic Silver as well?

You will get thermal paste with the cooler. You can use Arctic Silver if you want though.

quote:

I've also heard that the 212 in particular is huge. It seems like i'd be fine with this case and mobo but I wanted a second opinion.

R5 is a big case. It'll fit.

quote:

I've also no experience at all with this case. My last couple builds have been with Corsair cases. Are they well designed for cable management and the like?

They are easy to build in and they have cable tie points everywhere. And velcro straps.

quote:

This motherboard apparently supports up to DDR4-3400 which is super expensive. However, DDR4-3200 seems reasonable in price. Is there enough of a performance increase in choosing 3200 over 2400? I've been seeing conflicting things online.

No idea. I always just bought whatever was cheap.

quote:

Windows 10 Home because I looked at the Win 10 Pro features and I think my only experience with them involve seeing the word "Bitlocker" once or twice.

If you are not a sysadmin, go home.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
Jesus graphics cards are expensive these days. Back when AGP was the poo poo and 3DFX was king, I don't remember the card costing more than everything else in my computer combined.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
Well a 212 just about fits in that case but check out these pics.

https://bitfenix.com/global/en/forums/6,gaming-rig-showcase/658,the-prodigy/

Bloody thing is as big as the mobo.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

Agrajag posted:

usb for install. as for cheap windows 10 i have no clue

https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10

You can get the .iso and burn it to dvd or use the media creation tool to create your own usb. I just bought a retail license which comes in a cute box with the tiniest usb stick I've ever seen (in silver brushed metal!).

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

GutBomb posted:

Ive done this with a USB enclosure but if you have a spare sata you could do that too. Clone the smaller one to the bigger one then expand the partition size. I can't remember what cloning tool I used but I know it was free.

Guessing it was Macrium Reflect?

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
Is slanting/sagging normal on cpu air coolers?

I have a noctua u12s and I swear its dipping slightly. Its hard to tell because I don't have a graphics card installed but I can throw a GTX 760 in it for a horizontal reference, then take a picture.

I don't think its mounted incorrectly. There is very little give so the mounting bracket is not loose and there is no rattle. Thumb screws are finger tight.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

WanderingKid posted:

Is slanting/sagging normal on cpu air coolers?

I have a noctua u12s and I swear its dipping slightly. Its hard to tell because I don't have a graphics card installed but I can throw a GTX 760 in it for a horizontal reference, then take a picture.

I don't think its mounted incorrectly. There is very little give so the mounting bracket is not loose and there is no rattle. Thumb screws are finger tight.

After several days of complete bafflement, it turns out the tower itself doesn't stand straight. I only noticed this after remounting it the second time and placing the tower base plate down on a table next to a set square. Its 8 degrees off vertical.

Started an RMA so I guess I'll see how that goes.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

Ample posted:

Could use some goon sage advice here. The system I built would only partially boot so I brought it to micro center to fix because I did not have time to troubleshoot. I work 6 days a week at strange hours. Two days later I'm told by micro that the entire system is burnt out, likely due to the graphics card and it smelled like smoke when they received it. Which is total garbage and a straight up lie. Following that they said they replace the motherboard and CPU because they were purchase there but i would have to do everything else.

This morning I wake up and read often that parts damage by other components aren't covered under warranty. Do I have any recourse here and is it literally possible this guy destroyed everything include the ssd and memory? In short how likely did I just waste $1,200. Any suggestions on, RMA processing would be helpful.

Err, could you be more specific? Do you a parts list? How long have you had that pc and was it ever fully operational? Partial boot means what?

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

osker posted:

I picked up an i7 6700k and an Asus Maximus Gene. I'm cooling the processor with a Zalman copper air cooler and it seems to work pretty well, but it has a tendency of ramping up/down with CPU load which gets super annoying because the ramping ceases to be white noise. I hosed around with the bios settings and it still seems to do this even in "silent" mode. Should I just get one of those closed loop systems, are they quieter and less susceptible to fast ramping up/down because of the thermal inertia of the heat transfer fluid?

Not yet. Check what your vcore is during load. I dropped my i7 6700k load temps from 76C to 64C by manually bringing down vcore from 1.376V to 1.232V. I'm using a Noctua NH-U12S.

After that the default Qfan profiles won't give you any problems because cpu temp will never reach the threshold where your fans spin up to 100% (70 to 75C). If your fan speed is turning on 1 or 2 degrees then, use hysteresis in the BIOS to delay the fan spin up/down in seconds.

If you are shooting for a 4.6 ghz+ overclock (assuming you have a chip that is even capable of it), then vcore is going up pretty high no matter what you do. At this point maybe consider an all in one or a double tower stack but get your vcore and fan profiles under control before you start spending money.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
I dunno. Windows 10 is pretty dope like Ror said. Turn off all the privacy poo poo when you first install it and occasionally a windows app will ask permission to use your location or whatever (like for Maps). Windows 10 has never force restarted unless I told it to. I don't even know when it updates now, it just does its own thing and finds all the correct drivers and everything. poo poo just works without me having to do anything which is nice.

Tablet mode can be disabled (its better than desktop mode in some situations if using a Surface or some other touch/pen device). Just bring up the side bar and click tablet mode to turn it on/off.

Edge is still a poo poo browser. Its got the right ideas but its not there yet. I like that its super lightweight and it doesn't wreck battery life like Chrome does but I have a bunch of font rendering and scrolling problems unique to Edge that aren't an issue with Chrome or Opera so hopefully they fix that. Otherwise the idea of going back to Windows 7 is just weird and wrong.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

Arleneth posted:

is an Intel i7 worth getting for gaming purposes

No

quote:

is the i5 sufficiently powerful for gaming?

Yes

quote:

For building a gaming computer, does $1100 gives a decent amount of gaming power? Or should I do I need to scale down to a 1060?

Depends on the resolution and refresh rate you want to game at. 1080P at 60hz? GTX 1070 is overkill.

quote:

(I've been comparing what I could do with this computer I found on Newegg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883102253 . I do not know if that is a good computer manufacturer or not, but it seems well rated, except for the person who didn't read the store page.)

That seems quite good for the money.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

karmaconfetti posted:

Thanks :)

Which manufacturer should I look at, msi, gigabyte?

Whichever one fits in your case. They are all different size coolers and pcbs. EVGA is one of the smaller ones and is close to the size of the reference card. The MSI one is a little bit longer and quite a bit taller. And if you see a 1070 with 3x fans on it, its going to be loving huge. Like 3+ inches longer than reference.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
Nah. I didn't even have an dvd drive (internal or external). Windows 10 just handles all the driver stuff. You don't need to bother with driver download installers or utilities.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

babypolis posted:

Ok so I done hosed up. Finished building my pc, everything is connected and in place, power supply is plugged in, I press the on button aaaaannd... nothing happens. What can I do now? Is it possible I hosed my motherboard or something during the assembly? How hosed am I?

Possible but less likely than PWR SW cable not being plugged in (or not working), 8 pin CPU/EPS power and 24 pin ATX power cables not seated properly (or not working) and PSU switched off (if it has an on/off switch).

If you get no fans, no lights, nothing then start with the psu, then psu cables and the power button cable to the motherboard. Eliminate one by one. If swapping PSUs don't get the cables mixed up between PSUs. The pin layouts may not match and bad things will happen.

If the power button is faulty or the power button cable to the motherboard is faulty, you can jump the PWR SW positive and negative pins on the motherboard with a screw driver. That will eliminate the power button and cable.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

Koramei posted:

I posted about replacing my stock dell case a while back but got sidetracked, but now I'm keen to give it another go. A lot of people said the mounting points on the dell motherboards could be a problem, but I googled for some other people with my model (XPS 8500) trying this and it seems like... I'll probably be okay? But I wanted to get a second opinion before I put down $100 on a new case.

Picture + motherboard from the user manual:


Which overlayed on top of the Fractal Design Arc Midi seems like it fits these points?

(the case size seems like overkill, but I'd like to keep using it for when I replace the motherboard and cpu a few years down the line)

I tried to measure inside my computer but had trouble, but the top two screws seem like they're ~12cm apart, which seems accurate to the picture (if the case is 515mm deep). The screw layouts in the case seem specific enough that I should be safe, right? I won't find it's just a couple of millimeters off?

Assuming it fits though, I have another concern too- the Fractal Design case comes with 3 case fans, but it looks like the dell motherboard is entirely filled up, without slots for any new ones. Is there an adapter I can get, or will the fans all feed into one cable or something anyway? If it comes down to it I'd still take the 1 working fan with better airflow over what I have now, but it'd be nice to get all 3 working.

Finally, it was mentioned that the stock dell PSU cables might not be long enough, and mine's around 4 years old now anyway so I think it wouldn't hurt to replace it- this Corsair one mentioned a few posts back seems like a really good deal, $70 after rebate. Anyone know if I'll find I have compatibility issues with the dell poo poo, or should it work fine?


Do you really need all those drive bays? Thats what makes the fractal case huge.

I never swapped the mobo out in an XPS 8100 or XPS 8700 so I dunno if the mounting holes are standard for m-atx. I don't see any reason why not though. You could stay in the XPS 8500 case if you aren't replacing the motherboard. This is quite viable but you will need to measure everything.

I know for a fact the Noctua securefirm mounting bracket fits the XPS 8700 motherboard although the Noctua cooler I used (NH-U12S) was way too tall for the case at 161mm. It was protruding outside the chasis so the side panel couldn't close. An NH-D9L will fit though (110mm tall).

GPUs have to be around pascal reference card size. The EVGA ACX 3.0 cards will fit (just barely) and thats pretty close to Founder's Edition size. Check the measurements on EVGA's site. I think its something like 4.5 inches tall and 10.5 inches long. MSI's current crop of Twin Frozr cards will not fit. I made this mistake going from an MSI GTX 760 to a GTX 1070 and assumed that same cooler probably meant same dimensions. Nope. The current Twin Frozr cards are 5.1 inches tall and 10.9 inches long. You can physically get the card most of the way into the PCI-E slot but its too long and too tall so the PCI-E power connectors are blocked. Your screenshot doesn't show the part of the chasis that blocks it but its the side of the chasis where the HDD cages are attached.

2.5 inch SSDs will not mount to the HDD cages. Well you can do it but you can only hold it down with 2x screws. I tried an OCZ 2.5 to 3.5 inch mounting kit since it came free with my Vertex 2 120gb drive way back when, but that didn't fit either since the mounting points were totally wrong. You can get away with 2 drives in the pre-installed HDD cage, just don't mount a third drive over the gpu since you will never get the fucker out. You may not be able to get your graphics card in either.

You can install any PSU in the Dell. I had Antec TP-550s in both Dell boxes.

WanderingKid fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jan 8, 2017

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

chippocrates posted:

I'm building a PC and bought 4 sticks of 8GB DDR4-3200 ram. Unfortunately when I installed my CPU cooler I found that the fan bumps into the ram.

The cooler is the cooler master EVO 212. Can I install the fan on the other side of the cooler? There is an adapter to switch the fan direction so it sucks from the cooler rather than blows into the cooler.

Just take the fan + retention clips/bracket off the heatsink and clip it on a bit higher? Its kinda hard to visualize a stick of RAM with a heatspreader so tall that you have compatibility issues with a 212.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

Kragger99 posted:

Concerns:
Will the heat sinks of the RAM get in the way of a CPU cooler?

I have a U12S and a Z170-A with tall RAM (G-Skill Trident Z). There is about 1 mm of clearance between the fan and the RAM.

U14S heatsink is a teeny bit taller, a teeny bit deeper and alot wider so I think the 140 mm fan will just nudge over DIMM slot 1. You can clip the fan higher on the heatsink so its it sits up and over the ripjaw heatspreaders but that will make the cpu cooler a bit taller so check your case side panel will fit.

Go with U12S if you are worried. Its a really nice cooler and the NF-F12 is super quiet if you keep it under 1100 rpm.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

Jack Forge posted:

Eh, on the fractal case those middle drive bays should be removable. Giving you another 3-4 inches. And all the fractal 3.5 bays have the appropriate holes for 2.5 dives.

I dunno about the corsair case though.

I was talking about the Dell XPS case. The design makes it a bit annoying to upgrade but you can get alot of PC into it as long as you use a low profile cpu cooler, reference card sized gpu etc. I was just saying switching into a massive fractal case isn't strictly necessary.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

ufarn posted:

Would 660 make more sense, then? I'm toying with a Seasonic Platinum, and 660 seems to be the step down from 860.

Dude, 660 can do 55A on its +12V rail. You can do your proposed system with 2x 1080s if you wanted to.

In hybrid mode with a single 1080 I doubt the fan will even turn on. I have never had to clean my psu dust filter.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
Its just as well really. My case is on carpet so if the fan did spin up, my PSU would choke on a dog hair dust bunny within 3 months.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
You don't need a fan controller unless you intend to use a stupid number of fans. Z170-E has 4x 4 pin chasis fan headers and you can run splitters off those if you expect to use more than 4, which is not likely in most cases.


Fan speed can be controlled via ASUS QFan within the bios. It will auto detect the rpm range by spinning it up as fast as it can possibly go then slow it down until it stalls. Then you can adjust the rpm/temperature curve on an individual graph for each fan.

You can only control fan speed up to 70C or 75C (I forget which). Beyond this point, QFan will ramp up the fan to 100% no matter what.

If you do use a fan controller, these are either controlled via physical switches/dials on the controller or some type of front mounted module or they are controlled via software.

For example NZXT Grid+ allows fan control via CAM software from Windows. To do this it uses a spare USB 2.0 header on the motherboard. CAM won't let you control fan speed beyond 70C where it ramps up to 100% and it also has a much higher minimum rpm threshold to prevent the user from stalling their fans with too low voltages. Individual fan control is not possible and all fans are voltage controllable only. For most users, this controller offers less functionality than what you already have in your BIOS.

WanderingKid fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Jan 19, 2017

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
Yeah, mine had latches but even better, one of the pin sockets at the end was a different shape to the others making it impossible to insert the connector upside down.

This was the same for all PSU cable connectors, including 6 + 2 pin PCI-E power, 4 + 4 pin CPU/EPS power and 14 + 10 pin ATX power.

Both ends of the psu cable had different dividers so you couldn't plug the cable in the wrong way round either.

Now the front panel motherboard connectors. Holy poo poo. I had to google what to do with those but that little ASUS dongle was a life saver because the +/i terminals were printed on it. They weren't printed on the mobo and manual was a joke.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

ufarn posted:

This illegible graph (seen at https://seasonic.com/product/platinum-860/) states the fans turn on depending on % load.



Does % load refer to the wattage draw or something else?

I don’t know how to gauge what the “load” of my system would be, and the % of wattage doesn’t makes sense, since it’d be hard to hit below 30% draw of a <1kW system.

While an automatic three-tier system like this is compelling, I can’t figure out when it triggers, in which case Corsair’s AXi series’s more granular manual contorls might be better.

Anyone know?

Its a stupid graph I agree, but if it works the same way as the Prime series it means the fan turns on when the total system draw exceeds 50% of the PSU's rated capacity in watts and it turns off again when it falls below 30%. "Silent Mode" is hysteresis to stop the fan switching on/off rapidly when total system draw is fluctuating around 50% of capacity. If you never go more than 50%, the fan never turns on.

I have an i7 6700K, GTX1070 and a Seasonic Prime 650. The psu fan does not appear to have ever switched on. If it has turned on, it is spinning so slowly it cant even pull up a single dog hair from the carpet 1 cm below. The dust filter is always clean (as in brand new clean).

WanderingKid fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Jan 21, 2017

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
Power efficiency has gotten quite good over time too, especially on the gpu front. A GTX 1070 has roughly the same power consumption as a GTX 760. You might think that going from a 760 to a 1070 and quadrupling framerates in Dishonoured 2 must come at some cost n terms of power consumption but it doesn't. The cost is all in dollar bills.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

Cowwan posted:

You can do it. It's just some Legos with wires and crap in them. They're a lot harder to break than they look, and everything tends to only fit where it belongs.

True but these will get you every time:

1) When you push down on the cpu retention bracket lever (Intel socket), you will feel a decent amount of resistance and hear a faint but unmistakeable crunching sound.
2) Pushing memory modules into the dimm slots. The board will flex, even with your hand underneath to support it.
3) Front panel connectors. So many plugs and pins in such a tiny area. Which way around do they go? What if I get positive and negative mixed up? Does the direction of printed label matter? So many questions. So few answers from the mobo manual.
4) The i/o shield wont pop in. I watched 20 youtube videos where it just snapped in place in 2 seconds. Oh my god why wont you go in.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
Over in the overclocking megathread I think GRINDCORE MEGGIDO convinced me overclocked memory is a bunch of wild west bullshit anyway, and its not just about the big dumb heatsinks. Probably wasn't his intention but it is what it is.

XMP doesn't help by making the process seem like it doesn't require a brain, as it bumps Vdimm up to 1.35V and your stupid motherboard silently pushes insane auto voltage to the cpu's integrated memory controller.

I might tackle it again in future with stock VCCIO and VCCSA and see what I can get but I know for certain it will be miles off G.Skill's rated speed. Chalking the extra price of the kit up to the cost of education.

WanderingKid fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Jan 23, 2017

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
Get off XMP dude. Do one thing at a time, otherwise you wont know what the gently caress is going wrong or how to fix it.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
You choose sync all cores and then under "1 - core ratio limit" you change auto to 47. This will change all core ratio limits to 47.

Core voltage is set to auto by default so your motherboard can push retarded voltage to the cpu. You want to manually get core voltage under control as soon as possible because it has a big impact on your temps and fan noise.

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
Kinda hard to tell with so little information. Whats core voltage? Whats max core and package temperature shortly before it blackscreens? Does it always blackscreen or does it sometimes BSOD? If so, what is the bugcheck name?

WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...
Its actually pretty hard to get all the parts of a Powerspec G313 for 1k outside of a black friday rebate kill spree unless you have a friend that drives a lorry where all this poo poo conveniently falls out the back of.

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WanderingKid
Feb 27, 2005

lives here...

Status_Surge posted:

CPU: Intel Core i7-6950X 3.0GHz 10-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212X Dual Fan 82.9 CFM CPU Cooler

Nice one

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