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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

FCKGW posted:

Can you grill under a covered patio? I thought it would leave unsightly char marks on the ceiling.

I have, for around a year now with no issues. I do have the grill at the edge of the patio though and the smoke doesn't really gather under the roof typically.

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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

uwaeve posted:

The No Spill brand gas cans are kind of great.

I have this one, works great. No complaints.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I want nothing to do with Nest based on so many horror stories, however, I am interested in this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMX4GUC/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IXZ3OVO8UAKH2&colid=2S3IUKG08JHJJ

It basically "listens" for your pre-existing alarms and notifies you if they go off.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Exactly. We just got done un-landscaping a big planter in the front of our house that was nothing but a massive weed pit. Rolled out some sod, a hundred times easier to maintain.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I had a really similar situation, but it was painted formica over 2 layers of old glue from previous tile and who knows what else. Couldn't pull the drywall off as it was old plaster and crumbly in corners and a huge mess, so I ended up scraping off all the formica, leveling out the old glue with joint compound, sanding as flat as possible, then putting up new 1/2" drywall on top of it with adhesive and screws. Then tiled on top of that. Turned out great.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Does anyone have a hose they can recommend? I've been through a few and they seem to fall into two categories:

1. Lightweight, easy to handle, doesn't last for poo poo and springs leaks
2. Heavy duty and built to last, but super clunky and difficult to drag around or wrap to hang, especially when its colder out

Is there a hose thats not a piece of crap thats actually lightweight/flexible?

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I know this is probably somewhat location specific, but can anyone give me an idea if this is reasonable for some driveway work?

Basically, I want to widen the driveway to run up against the house. You can sort of see the planter area to the left of my car. I'm going to tear out the plants and want it filled in with asphalt to match the driveway (everything from the garage up to the front walk). I wanted the driveway coated at the same time so it all matches. I originally wanted to widen to the right a little but because the ground slopes he said we'd be looking at a retaining wall which is more involved than I want this project to get.

In terms of damage to the existing driveway, you can see the crumbled away area close the street (it's gotten a little worse since the street view car came through a couple years ago), then there's a couple cracks the span the whole width farther up, and one of them is big enough you can see the original driveway under the asphalt top coat.

I have a few more folks coming out, but here's the first estimate. He told me because of the damage and the height difference they want to tear out the existing driveway entirely and relay it all from scratch. I was hoping to get away with repairing the issues and recoating the existing driveway since its largely in decent shape other than the mentioned damage. But considering the quote is for a full tear out and replacement it doesn't seem out of line to me.



opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Basically I have no room to work on or wash a car right now. I end up standing in the mud in the planter, and leaving enough room to work a jack on both sides is a challenge.

I'd gain about 3 feet which would make a big difference.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

TheManWithNoName posted:

I would do bricks or pavers on the left side coming up from the street through that area next to the house. Won’t match your driveway obviously but it saves the cost of redoing the existing portion.

Hmm, I was thinking of tearing the plants out myself and laying some stone down before I decided to have the driveway redone, but I like the idea of bricks or pavers. I may go that route depending on how the other estimates look.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Just took some better pics.

View from the garage:



Side of the driveway where it sunk from a tree truck parking at the edge:



Worst spots of damage:





I do have this brick under the hose at the rear corner of the house, maybe I could just match this:

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I do already have a full french drain around the house including right below the planter that we're taking out. But I'm inclined to just leave the downspout as-is since its close enough to the front walk that it's not really in the way of the area that I'm mainly going to be utilizing the extra space from the expansion.

And yeah, because of the grade I wouldn't want to simply run PVC under the driveway since it'll just flood out my neighbor's yard.

I will ask the the next few guys I have out for estimates about it though, I'm sure they've dealt with similar before.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

opengl128 posted:

I know this is probably somewhat location specific, but can anyone give me an idea if this is reasonable for some driveway work?

Basically, I want to widen the driveway to run up against the house. You can sort of see the planter area to the left of my car. I'm going to tear out the plants and want it filled in with asphalt to match the driveway (everything from the garage up to the front walk). I wanted the driveway coated at the same time so it all matches. I originally wanted to widen to the right a little but because the ground slopes he said we'd be looking at a retaining wall which is more involved than I want this project to get.

In terms of damage to the existing driveway, you can see the crumbled away area close the street (it's gotten a little worse since the street view car came through a couple years ago), then there's a couple cracks the span the whole width farther up, and one of them is big enough you can see the original driveway under the asphalt top coat.

I have a few more folks coming out, but here's the first estimate. He told me because of the damage and the height difference they want to tear out the existing driveway entirely and relay it all from scratch. I was hoping to get away with repairing the issues and recoating the existing driveway since its largely in decent shape other than the mentioned damage. But considering the quote is for a full tear out and replacement it doesn't seem out of line to me.





opengl128 posted:

Just took some better pics.

View from the garage:



Side of the driveway where it sunk from a tree truck parking at the edge:



Worst spots of damage:





I do have this brick under the hose at the rear corner of the house, maybe I could just match this:




The plot thickens. I had two more guys out. They both noticed something the first guy overlooked, which is this is a thin asphalt layer on top of the original concrete driveway (you can see this in 2 of the close ups of the damage up from here.. The first $4100ish estimate seems to assume its a full asphalt driveway with proper stone under it, that they would touch up as needed and smooth/grade before putting down new asphalt.

But no, its a concrete pad. One of the guys estimated $7200 for a full demo of the drive, break up and haul away all asphalt, concrete, and excavate to get down to the right level to lay/compact 6 inches of stone before laying 2+2 of asphalt.

The other guy seems to think a less drastic approach is possible, where he's repair the cracks in the existing top coat, dig/stone/asphalt the new expanded area, and give the whole driveway a fresh seal coat to blend it all together. He's also separately gonna quote me for a full replacement.

Assuming full replacement is going to be floating around that $7000 area, I'm tempted go with the select repair/patch/epand/top coat option.

Option D is the other idea someone had, just dig up the plants and fill in with pavers or bricks. Still considering that.

opengl fucked around with this message at 13:18 on Jun 6, 2019

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Motronic posted:

Looks like the existing driveway is WIDER than the pad and that's showing in the sections where it's sunken on the sides (no prep "pancake" that I mentioned earlier).

I'd definitely go with removing the asphalt up to the pad, dig + properly prep with stone in those areas and the expanded sections, base coat to existing driveway level, then top coat. (other guy less drastic plan). I mean, I don't see a lost of shifting in the middle, so the concrete pad is probably fine. And probably better than fresh stone.

That's exactly what's going on. No idea how the first guy missed that. Majority of the driveway is over the original concrete pad, and other than those two broken away areas is in largely good shape. Just a few minor cracks from what I assume is movement of the pad at expansion joints. The sunken in part is where they laid extra asphalt right on top of the dirt.

Appreciate the input. Still waiting for a couple more estimates and opinions. But digging up the whole thing for $7k ain't gonna happen. The second guy seemed convinced he'd be able to dig for the new expansion, repair the holes and sealcoat the lot to match without tearing up the existing asphalt. Gonna get some more opinions on that one.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

My front loader washer has So Much Mold in the gasket, holy crap. Soaking it in vinegar and doing a hot cycle with vinegar didn't do a drat thing

Leave the door open after you finish a load. Also a lot of them have a magnet to catch the door and leave it slightly cracked which helps when you're not using it too.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I no longer feel paranoid for shutting of my water when I go on vacation :stare:

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

H110Hawk posted:

Outside of things being offset to the left, and seemingly out of level, what's wrong?

For starters the TV mount is way too high. It should be at eye level when you're sitting down.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

You already mentioned the other stuff. Shoved into a corner, seemingly not level.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Ghostnuke posted:

I walked in today and used the 25% and the 20% on things that were specifically excluded. It was the store manager that rang me up, I didn't try to pull any kind of tricks or anything. I had a cart full of things and gave her the coupons, she applied them to the highest cost items, which just happened to be the things that were supposed to be excluded. :shrug:

YOU MONSTER

e: new page. uhh, here's my cats begging for pancakes this morning

opengl fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 2, 2019

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Probably a better ask here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3131399

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

The Rev posted:

Click the article and notice it's from the Philly inquirer - "Hey that's a paper somewhat close to me!"

Read first sentence about Bucks County, PA - "I live in Bucks county..."

Remember house is built in 1962 :sweatdrop: yikes, what a read; and Buckingham is only about 15 miles away.

Motronic posted:

I think that makes 4 of us within 30 minutes or so. Yeesh.

Yeah I knew exactly who you were talking about when you first mentioned the 6 figure stucco repairs. My cousin bought one of those houses, and has been a nightmare for them.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Motronic posted:

One of my favorites, and I can't find the newspaper article now, was the guy who bought his brand new "luxury home" and had near $2,000 a month electric bills for his first December, January and February. Finally gets someone there to figure out what's going on.

Whoops, we forgot to insulate the attic. At all.

That's amazing. Not surprising though. I've been in my cousin's house ($1m+). The whole thing just had a hard to pin down cheap feeling to it. They've had a ton of other issues with it too.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

The Rev posted:

Down here in lower Bucks I've got a sump that almost never stops, even though I've done some water mitigation stuff since buying the place. I now have a water powered backup, but still get nervous each time the power might go out.

I'm around you, previous owners put in a full french drain. The sump pump is really quiet so I don't hear it run unless I'm in that room in the basement, but I really don't think it does often. Only time I've heard it come on was when I took the lid off the pit to see how much water was coming into it during a heavy storm (it was A LOT.) Super glad they did all that before finishing the basement because its been fine so far in the 5 years we've been here.

But I definitely want to look into a water pressure powered backup pump as well, because if we lose power during a heavy storm we're hosed. Last one I had some buckets ready to do manual bailing if needed.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Just fold up some napkins under one edge of it like a wobbly table at a restaurant.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

StormDrain posted:

Looking forward to the update in 5 years.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Yup the real protip on those front loaders is to never ever have the door closed unless it's running. Leave it wide open for a day to fully dry then if you must, close it most of the way until the magnet catches the door but it's still open a crack.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I've had great luck with these on flanges of questionable integrity.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SANI-SEAL-TOILET-GASKET-Toilet-Gasket-Flexible-Waxless-Seal-Universal-Fit-BL01/203564758

Also nice that you can remove and reposition the toilet if needed, it's not one time use like a wax ring.

opengl fucked around with this message at 18:12 on May 9, 2022

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

amethystbliss posted:

This house was built in the last decade so we were surprised it hasn't held up.

Oh sweet summer child.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I'll throw this out there, I have that same HF pressure washer, and while it's great at washing cars and light duty stuff like siding, I'd never use it to clean sidewalks etc, unless you want to do it a 1.5 inch wide strip at a time. It just doesn't have enough guts for work like that unless you're super close to the surface.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

The noise difference between the original solid doors in my 50s house vs the hollow 80s junk my parents have is night and day.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ojOfaaDgfA

This is a bad capacitor right?

We had our outdoor unit replaced around 6 months ago, it did this once before after it had been turned off for a few days. By the time the guys could come out it started working again. I specifically asked them to check/replace the capacitor then, but I was not home so he said everything looks fine and took off since it was working.

I'll just order the drat thing on Amazon but want to at least get a sanity check first.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

opengl posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ojOfaaDgfA

This is a bad capacitor right?

We had our outdoor unit replaced around 6 months ago, it did this once before after it had been turned off for a few days. By the time the guys could come out it started working again. I specifically asked them to check/replace the capacitor then, but I was not home so he said everything looks fine and took off since it was working.

I'll just order the drat thing on Amazon but want to at least get a sanity check first.

Welp just like last time after failing to start all day, the next day it's working fine. They're on the way but I fully expect them to say everything checks out. What can I reasonably expect here when it's functioning fine when they show up? I get they can't just throw parts at it, but there's obviously something intermittently wrong.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

He just left. He did check charge level, and power draw, all normal.

I did manage to get a picture of the power draw yesterday off my energy monitor when it was failing to start.



This is a successful start:



I'm also leaning towards intermittent electrical issue, but the guy they sent was pretty green and didn't seem comfortable with much more diagnosis. I showed him those pictures and he didn't have much to say, he's going to run it by the other guys tomorrow (I'm really hoping they have a greybeard on staff) and get back to me.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Yeah my wife was fuming and really wanted to lay into to guy but they obviously sent whoever was free on a Sunday morning. We'll see where they take it from here I guess. Frustrating on both sides, but I've been in their shoes and I know it sucks.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

It’s really weird because it’s been working fine for 6 months outside of these two incidents where it did this for a day, then worked fine the next day.

The only thing common to both occurrences is that it had been turned off for 2+ days prior. Last time it was because we were out of town for a week and this time because it’s finally been cooling off.

But I don’t know enough about HVAC to say what it being turned off for 48+ hours would change. When it works it has no issue at all restarting throughout the day or for the first time after being off for 8 hours or so.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Quaint Quail Quilt posted:

Originally engineered for aerospace and aviation applications, 303® Protectant provides superior protection against harmful UV rays that can cause discoloration, fading, and cracking of vinyl, rubber and plastic surfaces. 303 Protectant also helps repel dust, dirt, lint and staining.

Hope I'm not the only one who heard this in the Project Farm guy's voice.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

BadSamaritan posted:

Any suggestions on what to do about an oven that doesn’t get as hot as it thinks it is?

Lately sometimes (but not every time) the gas oven will preheat and say it has reached 400F or whatever, but if I check the oven thermometer it will read 350F or something. It has caused problems for more than a couple dinners now.

Of course, no local appliance services are returning my messages and I’d really rather not buy a new stove.

You can usually calibrate it. Search for your model + calibration, should point you in the right direction.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Qwijib0 posted:

hopefully the wholesale price falling means some of that gets passed through shortly

oh that's cute you think prices will come back down. CEOs are on record saying they have no intention of rolling back price increases even after costs are back down.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

True I'm more coming at this from a consumer goods viewpoint.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010


I've had great experience with this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/SANI-SEAL-TOILET-GASKET-Toilet-Gasket-Flexible-Waxless-Seal-Universal-Fit-BL01/203564758

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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

StormDrain posted:

All these years and nobody had ever reccomended clearing the bowl with a sponge.

Cyrano4747 posted:

4) I dunno, slosh the tank and spill water on the floor or something. Tip: Flush after you turn the water off to clear most of the water out of the tank and avoid this. It also makes the toilet lighter.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/OATEY-Liquilock-6-oz-Toilet-Water-Solidifier-Gel-31419/202882917

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