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Finished the heatercore and took it for a good drive. no issues. And the window sprayers work plus my turn signals blink at the proper speed after fixing the chewed wiring.
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Mar 3, 2017 00:19
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And you're not breathing in hantavirus anymore.
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Mar 3, 2017 20:11
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Bit of an update on the Cressida, Moved the replacement motor into the garage using the tow truck. motor swap coming soon.   way better than a motor hoist. Also used a deck truck to help my grandpa move some logs    And on the Eagle front i noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking badly, from what i read online its easy to physically change but there is some kind of crush washer to watch for and torquing the main nut down can be hard to do correctly. Something to do with drag and resistance, but some guys say just slap it together, tighten it down and cross your fingers.
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Mar 11, 2017 22:11
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eberbs posted:
The crush washer is already crushed, what you dont want to do is crush it more. The shortcut way is to replace the pinion seal, then when you're tightening the pinion nut back down avoid any long bursts with your impact once the pinion nut starts to tighten up. Normally a couple very quick bursts is all that is required.
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Mar 12, 2017 00:18
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It's an AMC model 15 / dana 35 rearend right? The RIGHT way to do it is to: - remove diff cover - remove cross shaft retention bolt - remove cross shaft - remove axleshafts and c clips - remove carrier, keep each bearing cup with the side of the diff it was on originally - drop driveshaft - measure pinion preload drag (since it's leaking like a sieve you can probably assume there's zero drag from the seal) with an inch-pound torque wrench that measures while it's moving, not trying to get it moving - remove nut, washer, yoke, seal, outer bearing, crush sleeve - replace crush sleeve, bearing, seal, yoke, washer, new pinion nut - tighten to spec, verify preload drag is correct plus a bit for the fact that the seal's actually touching it now - reassembly is reverse of removal, except you curse at different times (usually when dropping all the things into the drain pan full of nasty diff lube and dirt) The factory procedure probably involves replacing the pinion bearings and cups as well, and may require redoing the depth shimming and/or carrier bearings too While You're In There. That being said, the way I've done it a few times is exactly what Swiller of Beer said. Bap it off, pull washer/yoke/seal, reinstall new (use new pinion nut), bap it back on. Or another variation (this only works since you're not replacing the yoke or washer or anything other than the seal), scratch a line into the pinion tip and nut, bap it off, pull washer/yoke/seal, crank it back on with a ratchet and make sure the scribe lines match up again, now it's where it was originally. Probably worn and sloppy as gently caress with no remaining bearing preload, but hey, whatever, it worked before. If it blows up, swap in a 29 spline chrysler 8.25, IMO, you might even get lucky and find one that is the right gear ratio to match your front. Allegedly the spring perch width is the same on the Eagle and XJ 8.25 so it'll bolt right in after you weld the appropriate shock mounts on, but the people who said that noted in the same breath that Eagles are SUA while XJs are SOA, so I'm not sure how accurate this information is because that'd require some work to correct.
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Mar 15, 2017 20:26
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kastein posted:It's an AMC model 15 / dana 35 rearend right? The RIGHT way to do it is to: I would be better off just swapping the rear end out of the parts eagle rather than follow the full procedure. i think the bap it off and on method is the way im going to go and if she blows i got a spare. Also might get help from a co worker who worked in a trans shop for years and has rebuild thousands of diffs.
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Mar 15, 2017 21:44
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Eagle update: driving the eagle today and out of nowhere it started making GBS threads out, i think its ignition related, it would lose all power then come back run fine and crap out again until i pulled over and got it towed home. Going to check all the wiring tomorrow, hopefully its just a coil or something.
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Mar 16, 2017 07:22
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So today i changed out the ignition control module and added a ground to the ignition system on the eagle. seems to run fine, but ill need to drive it for a bit and have a tow truck on standby. Got the rear pinion seal today and took a peak under the eagle and it looks like the rear seal on the t-case where the rear drive shaft comes out is leaking. I suspect that it was caused by the bad trans mount i replaced months ago.
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Mar 17, 2017 00:55
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eberbs posted:More pictures What are the keys sitting on? It looks like chunks of agate set in fossilized alien blood.
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Mar 17, 2017 03:11
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scrubs season six posted:What are the keys sitting on? It looks like chunks of agate set in fossilized alien blood. Thats my weed smoking table, it's a huge slab that weights drat near 75 pounds. Its from the 70's, a friend of mine found it at a swap meet years ago and gave it to me. Not sure what its made of but on the bottom side its a bunch of little rocks and shells.
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Mar 17, 2017 04:32
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Started doing the pinion and output shaft seals today. Marked the nut, but by the time i got it off the mark was gone, so that sucks.  Things were going fairly smooth untill the cap fell of the u-joint at the t-case end. gently caress.  Rather than wasting time picking the needles out of the dirt and swearing for an hour or 2 i decided to just replace it.  So to the parts store for a new one $20 for a moog u-joint and $15 a piece for the seals, not too bad.  A little hammering and the new one is in.  Both yokes  Had to go to pig iron and get a $8 power fist seal puller  Got the t-case seal out easily  New seal is in  The pinion seal is being a whore to get out, the seal puller is opening it like a tin can and shes in there good. That will be tomorrows problem, along with trying to get the pre-load right without marks anywhere.
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Mar 17, 2017 23:06
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After lots of sweating and throwing tools i got the loving pinion seal out. The fluid that came out of the diff looked like poo poo. The vent tube for the axle was unplugged at the axle for who knows how long and who knows what crap made it into the diff. Oh well I always have a spare.  Pounded the new seal in  The new seal was not as "deep" as the old one if that makes sense, but every where I looked said that was the right one.  Put the pinion nut back on and tightened it down comparing it to the picture i took and eyeballing the threads. Fingers crossed.
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Mar 18, 2017 20:41
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Love that seal puller. I'm gonna need to grab one.
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Mar 18, 2017 21:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Love that seal puller. I'm gonna need to grab one. Don't bother, slide hammer and hook works even better. Also eberbs did you put any grease in that seal? All the ones I've changed recommended at least a light greasing, and sometimes a total packing.
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Mar 20, 2017 21:52
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I greased her up real good. Gotta get a new grease gun, last one exploded and made a massive mess, gotta hit all the grease nipples on the eagle, hasn't been greased since iv had it so who knows how long its been. Taking it out for a drive tomorrow, fingers crossed i make it back home under its own power.
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Mar 22, 2017 09:25
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Drove the eagle today, the seals and pinion seem to be fine, but the engine was cutting out on me again. It was fine most of the day then it started cutting out, let it cool down and it would be fine again. I still think its ignition related but I could be wrong. I checked the coil with a volt meter on resistance and it tested ok, might try changing the pickup in the distributor. Any other suggestions as to what it could be would be appreciated. Its lovely because its fairly intermittent.
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Mar 23, 2017 05:38
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cutting out once it's hot could be vapour lock. Is it still running on the mechanical fuel pump?
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Mar 23, 2017 06:00
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yah stock fuel pump. i thought it could be vapor lock, i felt all the fuel lines and they didn't seem hot at all, not sure if that even matters. It will idle for days but when its acting up once you get on the gas it cuts out, lift your foot and it will go back to idling fine.
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Mar 23, 2017 07:07
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eberbs posted:yah stock fuel pump. i thought it could be vapor lock, i felt all the fuel lines and they didn't seem hot at all, not sure if that even matters. Have you set the dwell on the points? This sounds like a dwell issue I chased for a long time. Then someone showed me how to check the dwell of the points and it was way the gently caress off.
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Mar 24, 2017 02:11
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Drove the eagle around a bit today, didn't act up once. Also helping my roommate replace the struts in his 87 celica gts   got the rears back in, fronts will be tomorrows job, he also has new cv axles for the front, might put those in while the struts out.
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Mar 24, 2017 02:16
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clam ache posted:Have you set the dwell on the points? This sounds like a dwell issue I chased for a long time. Then someone showed me how to check the dwell of the points and it was way the gently caress off. I don't believe its points, has a ignition control module, and i swapped that already.
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Mar 24, 2017 02:18
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eberbs posted:I don't believe its points, has a ignition control module, and i swapped that already. Werd. Firgured i would offer it up because I had a car that acted the exact same way. Your cars are beautiful.
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Mar 24, 2017 02:19
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Got the drivers side cv changed, took a little fighting to get the new one to clip into the trans. Rock auto sent the wrong cv axle for the passenger side, both parts they list for this car are wrong, luckily the local parts store had the right one in stock for 100 canadian pesos. Drivers side seems to be original, boots are cracked but not completely split. The passenger side was a napa axle and the boot is torn wide open.  The long axle on top is the napa one that we pulled out and under it in the box is the wrong one that rock auto sent.  And the new correct axle.  Hoping to finish it all up tomorrow morning, then in a few weeks the new cylinder head and headers are going on.
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Mar 24, 2017 22:37
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That cutting out def sounds like the AMC/Jeep thing where the throttle position sensor gets a bit of water in it, and then intermittently freaks out, I've had 3 vehicles do it to me, 2 cherokees and an early dodge minivan.
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Mar 25, 2017 02:01
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eberbs posted:The long axle on top is the napa one that we pulled out and under it in the box is the wrong one that rock auto sent. Maybe you're supposed to reuse the carrier bearing stub portion? I know AWD DSM axles are that way. Literally the same thing, unbolt bracket from block and separate the CV from the stub and throw the new one in. Hard to tell, maybe the rock auto one would work fine(?).
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Mar 25, 2017 02:29
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Larrymer posted:Maybe you're supposed to reuse the carrier bearing stub portion? I know AWD DSM axles are that way. Literally the same thing, unbolt bracket from block and separate the CV from the stub and throw the new one in. That's what I thought, but it's one solid piece past the joint, I pryed the gently caress out of it thinking it would come apart but no, one piece.
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Mar 25, 2017 03:42
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Celica is done. Forgot to get any before pictures but it looks to be about a 1.5 inch drop. drives wayy better, just needs and alignment now.
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Mar 25, 2017 20:25
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Doing a little work on the eagle today. Swapping out a bad cv with one from the parts car. The one on the parts car came off relatively easily, although i had to go buy a 36mm socket and some long shank allen bits.  But i cant get the loving axle nut off the good eagle. hit it with the impact, used lots of heat and tried a long bar with no success. Im using a mastercrap plug in impact gun so i might try and borrow my neighbors air impact and try that but gently caress its tight. 
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Apr 1, 2017 18:54
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So after an hour of heating pb blasting and impacting the gently caress out of that nut with a proper impact and the compressor at full bore it finally broke loose. Old axle  Going back together i managed to snap a bolt head off one of the inner bolts. gently caress.  Not sure what im gonna do about that yet.
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Apr 2, 2017 07:13
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So my roommate bought a 88 corolla like mine from his friend to drive for a few weeks while we do the head replacement on his celica. He pulled into the driveway with it last night with billows of white smoke coming out of the tail pipe. I just thought to myself the head gasket is hosed. Not 10 minutes later he leaves to go get it insured, makes it half a block and it overheats. Let it sit over night and i took a look at it this morning to confirm my worst fears. Out of coolant, Check Water under the oil cap, Check Oil over full and watery, Check  Engine stone cold crank, blows exhaust gases out rad cap, Check Cold crank HG failure Cold Start hosed Head gasket And it still pushes white smoke like a mofo. Did a compression test and got 130 150 160 150, not near as bad as i thought but shes still dicked. Best part is the "friend" who sold it to my roommate has denied that it ever overheated or had any issues and is basically loving him hard. Looks like shes headed for the scrapper.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:00
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why not slip in a new HG? not like its hard on that engine.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:06
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cursedshitbox posted:why not slip in a new HG? not like its hard on that engine. Its not that hard at all, but if im gonna do it im gonna do it right and get the head checked and decked if needed along with possible timing belt and water pump and whatever else. Been down this road before with these cars and they aint worth poo poo, just not worth the time and effort especially with all the other projects i have on the back burner.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:13
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Yeaaaah I can't argue that. BTDT a thousand times.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:23
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Its been a productive few days, Took the blown head gasket corolla to scrap along with a friends caravan with a snapped cv joint. Scrap Corolla    Only things worth saving was the tires and battery. Also got my roommates parts cressida to the house and stripped off what we needed. Couldn't get to the bolts for the doors because of it being in the drive way and not being able to open the doors all the way so we did a little body work.    Also have a line on another nissan truck to replace the noodle body, will keep you updated.
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Apr 12, 2017 23:18
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Took the parts cressida to scrap today while i was there i spotted this sweet old international     I would love to slap the face of who ever brought this to scrap. such a waste of an amazing old truck.
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Apr 15, 2017 21:00
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Please save it... 
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Apr 15, 2017 21:10
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moxieman posted:Please save it... I would love to save it but once its at the scrap yard they wont sell it, the most i can hope for is one of the employees taking it home, but i dont even know if they allow that. Tons of cars that i would love to have, its a sad sad place sometimes.
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Apr 15, 2017 21:21
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That was probably one of those dickhead 3000 FIRM OR ITS SCRAP craigslist ads. loving shame. thats a niiice old piece of iron.
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Apr 15, 2017 21:22
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Towed this beautiful 1959 benz 180 today. The owner was driving it when his headlights died and smoke started coming out from the hood, luckily he had a fire extinguisher and was able to put it out before much damage was done.    4 on the tree 
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Apr 17, 2017 08:35
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Picked up another hardbody today. 91 2wd 5-speed KA motor, single cab. Got it for $500 and it needs a poo poo ton of work. Picked it up from a friend of a friend and he had removed the front fenders and stripped the interior so i had to reinstall the fenders before i could drive it home.    Some numpty fabracobbled and welded some seat brackets to fit different seats in the truck but the seats suck rear end and sit way to high so i cut out the poo poo and installed the stock seats from the original noodle body.    Head lights didn't work but after looking at the plugs to the head light the problem was obvious  snipped and spliced the connectors form the noodle.  removed what was left of the muffler. Tons more to do including swapping both bumpers both doors, rear window and grill from the noodle, lowing it 2 inches and painting it matte black. Going to work on it all day tomorrow due to the fact it is going to be the dd because the f-150 is sold to my neighbor who is storing the noodle and cressida for us.
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Apr 20, 2017 07:49
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