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So several months back, I asked IoC if I could start my own WJ Jeep related thread instead of constantly piggybacking on his. It took me this long to worry about risking a ban if the thread sucked. For those who don't know, the Jeep WJ was the internal model name of Grand Cherokees produced for the 1999 through 2004 model years. Several different trims, powertrain and four wheel drive systems were available, but in the US, we got the long celebrated and sometimes maligned by automotive press 4.0 straight six and the all new Power Tech 4.7 V8. Personally, I was always a fan of the old school XJ Cherokees. I purchased my second car, a 1992 Jeep Cherokee sport in the fall of 2001 after my firsf car, a 1987 Dodge Charger blew a headgasket and found out it would cost more than the car was worth to fix it. My '92 Cherokee was a silver 2 door with the 4.0 HO, five speed and NO 4x4. That was the only reason I was able to afford it. I ran the doors off of it anyway, and besides getting stuck out a few times when four wheel drive would have helped, I loved that thing. It wasn't fast, the headliner started sagging the last few years I had it, but dammit it was a Jeep and amazingly I never really had to pay the Chrysler price. Aside from maintenance and wear items, I never had a single issue with it, it even had the same battery in it when I was forced to say goodbye. After an on the job injury, I found myself having difficulty shifting the five speed. Also, there was a hole rusted through the floor right where passengers in the back would put their feet. Random as hell. So, flush with a bit of insurance. settlement money, I started looking for. a new Jeep. At first, I concentrated on Cherokees, preferrably from the south. Even in the early 20-teens, Cherokees., at least those with decent to low mileage and with a good body, were getting harder and harder to find. So I saw (and bought) this 2002 Grand Cherokee Limited from a small independent dealer my grandfather was friends with.  So, it was my daily driver to and from work the three years I was paying on itb and it was mostly reliable. I had a small issue with the heat going out, but that was remedied with the help of Rock Auto part numbers and Amazon Prime free shipping.    So the Jeep soldiered on. Soon, a wild Magnaflow appeared!  Old and busted. Then, it happened. The Jeep that bore my wife and I on our honeymoon to Gettysburg was rear ended one morning on my way home from work.  The rear glass would no longer raise, the rear wiper wouldn't even contact the glass..it was a mess. Suddenly, a lift appeared to raise my spirits!  Pancake keeps the box from floating away. The box contained brand new lift springs good for an additional (claimed) two inches..  An Addco rear sway bar..  New vs old and etc, etc.. And Bilstein 5100 series shocks..  So, with the lift on, I tackled the brutal winters of..southwest Virginia. And here we are with the most recent picture, taken back in December of last year, fresh from mounting new tires.  So my plans for this Jeep and thread: 1. Replace shitbox O2 sensors. 2. Flush and fill radiator with correct HOAT coolant. Zerex G-05. 3. Drain and replace fluid in front and rear diffs, transfer case and maybe transmission. 4. Sand down and try my hand and rust repair. 5. Saw out and weld in new rock sliders/rocker panels. 6. Replace rear hatch. (Finally) 7. Remove seats and either replace foam or build up existing foams in drivers seat using..I dunno, old couch cushions? 8. Replace or fix broken drivers seat butt and nut warmer. 9. Paint and maybe strengthen existing seat mounts. 10. If I'm able to fix crappy rust spots on hood, try tackling the rear quarter panels and rear drivers side dogleg. 11. Find out the source of my magically disappearing coolant. 12. Replace front tie rods, track bar, drag link and tie rod tube. 13. Everything else that breaks every day, all the time. I'm partially using this thread as a kick in the bag to keep me to task, as there are alot of routine maintenance items that need doing, in addition to larger repairs. Since it's my daily driver, since my wife and I are two working poor schmucks paying student loans and working jobs that will leave us free of student debt and since why not, I'll be doing as much of this as I can. I'll try to use new pictures I haven't shared, but if anyone has any reason to see dozens of various Jeep and cat pictures, they can be made available. Also, I exclusively post from the app on my phone, usually overnights from work, so if tables are broken, words are spelled weird or I go off on a weird sleep deprived tangent one morning at 4am, I apologize in advance. Technical specs: 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 Litre V8 (non HO) Quadra Drive II Transfer case, with front and rear Vari Lok differentials gileadexile fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Aug 19, 2017 |
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Aug 18, 2017 07:52
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Bring back the dogs. 
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Aug 18, 2017 08:06
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Cool, I had a UK market V8 Overland. And yes, the blower power supply did that. Have your blend doors or window regulators fallen apart yet? Great car though.
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Aug 18, 2017 09:44
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I always wanted the Turbodiesel variant. FYI: You might want to change all your code:code:
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Aug 18, 2017 11:51
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Yep, replaced my first window regulator in..I'm thinking October or November of 2015. Tried repairing the old one, but plastic, etc. Blend doors..ehhhh, I have a feeling they've needed replacing for a while now, A\C doesn't blow as cool from the passenger side. And good looking out on the timg, I'll edit the pics when I get home. Another question, would youtube embedding of various Jeep adventures be kosher? gileadexile fucked around with this message at 11:59 on Aug 18, 2017 |
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Aug 18, 2017 11:57
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gileadexile posted:And good looking out on the timg, I'll edit the pics when I get home. Very kosher.
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Aug 18, 2017 12:09
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 especially more pics of pancake 
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Aug 18, 2017 12:18
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gileadexile posted:Blend doors..ehhhh, I have a feeling they've needed replacing for a while now, A\C doesn't blow as cool from the passenger side. I might be not reading the OP well enough, but exactly what spec is your WJ? 2002 model year onwards is good, they made some improvements such as less seizure-prone brake calipers, but what engine etc is it? Does it have Quadradrive? This makes drivetrain oil changes fractionally more expensive, but I loving loved the setup, in my opinion it's close to a perfect "let it get on with it" 4WD system, and with winter tyres was up there with Panda 4x4s for a snowy roads car.
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Aug 18, 2017 23:43
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You're right, I had to start the thread using Chrome on my phone and did what I could, gonna edit it in a bit, add some stuff, along with kitty rollcall.
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Aug 19, 2017 02:27
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So since you have all met Pancake, I'll show the rest of my brood. This is Simone. She's 12, the pariah of the bunch, so she's constantly sneaking around, making the other cats, (mostly Pancake, Jack and sometimes Wembley) see her as prey.  This is Wembley. Third oldest.  He..tries.  Next up is Mouse.  The AI catte supreme, Jack..   She absolutely loved Top Gear. It's freaky. Youngest is Ygritte.  And these are all my too many drat cats. But I would't give a single one up for the world. gileadexile fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Aug 19, 2017 |
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Aug 19, 2017 03:05
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Broken blend doors would mean no heat, usually. Subscribing for more WJ shenanigans.
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Aug 19, 2017 03:26
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Some short (mis)adventures! https://youtu.be/uhNw-8SxGWM Going home from work in the snow. First time driving it in snow. https://youtu.be/lrevgmvWHas First properly deep snow. Was the only one going to work, company wide. https://youtu.be/O4KZ1rSe2-Q A bad cell video of a short fire road session. https://youtu.be/CxsMsKwWLc0 Being stupid on the way home one morning. https://youtu.be/ZXuWCObTKFg Shows just how scary effective this thing is in hard packed snow and ice. gileadexile fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Aug 19, 2017 |
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Aug 19, 2017 03:30
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Ok, if it's Quadradrive, when doing the oil in the varilock diffs, be aware that there is an error in one of the manuals/tech specs on how much friction modifier to add. I'm afraid off the top of my head I can't remember the exact details, as it was a while ago that I had to deal with it, but IIRC the nature of the error was that the front and rear axles are different capacities, and you want the same percentage FM mixed in, while the manual says the same amount for both.
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Aug 19, 2017 09:16
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Alot of the other forums have WJ owners going with Red Line or other brands with modifier already added, but I've always been leery of that. I have a few bottles lying around somewhere waiting on a good day to change it. Was gonna use Mobil 1 or some other decent brand of synthetic. She's a rusty piece of poo poo, but I don't wanna take too many chances.
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Aug 19, 2017 10:13
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I put the mopar dealership stuff in mine, though the transfer case oil (at least in the UK) had been superseded by an agricultural oil for telehandlers etc...
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Aug 19, 2017 10:50
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gileadexile posted:Blend doors..ehhhh, I have a feeling they've needed replacing for a while now, A\C doesn't blow as cool from the passenger side. Check the charge first if you haven't already. Due to some quirk of Mopar HVAC design, the passenger side on the WJs and WKs will blow warm(er) and the driver's side will blow cool if the system's low on refrigerant. It would suck to go to the trouble of the blend doors only to find your problem wasn't fixed.
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Aug 21, 2017 01:02
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I wind up having to dump a charge in every summer, it has a leak somewhere in the system that's been vexing me for a while. I've wondered if it has anything to do witb the faint chemical/maybe coolant smell when I have the defrost turned on. Windows never fog though.
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Aug 21, 2017 01:34
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gileadexile posted:
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Aug 21, 2017 01:55
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So google has let me down once again. Random question. I've had slow leaks in both tires on the passenger side. They both still read the TPMS sensors and display on the EVIC, however the one in front is a hard, aluminum bodied stem, while the one in back is an older rubber floppy one. Now granted, the one in back NEVER reads accurate and is apparently leaking like a sieve the past week. I'd like to purchase 4 all around, as the only one that's been replaced is the one now leaking. The drivers side don't read at all, which really I don't care about, I check them once a week with a manual gauge anyway. Not knowing what type to get, do I have to get 4 TPMS capable ones? Can I just buy 4..I dunno, regular stems and have them work with my wheels?
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Aug 23, 2017 03:18
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If you don't care about tpms, regular valve stems will work fine. I've replaced all of my sensors and I still get a "sensor bad" error once a week or so.
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Aug 25, 2017 07:32
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Purchased 4 1 inch aluminum bodied valve stems. I have a tentative appointment with the family mechanic this Saturday morning after work to put em in and try to get the O2's installed with some heat and some violence.
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Aug 31, 2017 05:22
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Whelp, tomorrows written off, he's been working on a friend's 50's rat rod that he has to finish, so I guess I'm gonna hold out hope for some Jeep attention mid to late next week when I'll be off. Just can't wait around 'til the afternoon to work on it, my work schedule is Wednesday and Thursday nights 8 to 12, then 8 to 8s all the way until the next Wednesday, when it's an 8 to 12 midnight, then I'm off again until 12 midnight the next week. It's already tough enough to grab 5 or 6 hours of sleep every day on my 12's between neighbors and everyday life noise outside. In other news, my drivers side mirror has gone floppy recently, so I'm gonna take a look at that. It'll probably boil down to putting a tiny bit of epoxy on the detents to get a bit more traction out of em, not spending that much for a new heated and auto dimming mirror when the glass and features still work fine. I've rather been hoping that the strange idle, transmission shifting and power loss was from the O2 sensors having poo poo the bed, but I'm also wondering if it's because I bought an Advance store brand TPS sensor a few months back. It comes and goes, so it's a Jeep mystery. Let's see, other daily driver issues.. Front and rear passenger side tires still losing air at prodigious rates, front around 1 or 2 lbs a day, rear probably closer to 8 or 10. I keep the local Sheetz air pump busy. Have also been noticing some coolant loss. Really hoping it's not a headgasket, gonna see about getting a block tester on payday. I've noticed the coolant in the rad itself seems to have an oily film on top, but my oil dipstick smells regular, a bit gassy as I'm coming up on my 5,000 mile interval, but it seems ok. Lots of mushy buildup on the rad cap itself too, along with a vestige of green coolant I've not been able to get completely out from either the PO or dealership. It WAS a new radiator and hoses when I got it in 2012, but the clamps are starting to look crusty. There is a bit of white overspray, but a VDOT truck dropped a few buckets of white paint while painting lines earlier this summer and I went over it while it could have still been fresh, so I'm guessing that's it, as it doesn't just scratch off like I'd assume coolant spray would. Could also explain the white crust stuff on some of the coolant clamps. Anyway, guess that's all for this week..ugh. 
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Sep 2, 2017 05:27
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Smelled coolant when I turned my defrost on this morning. Pulled the carpet a bit, does this look like a leaky heatercore to anyone? Also, pretty sure air isn't meant to be going this direction, right? https://youtu.be/2RERVsuEjFI
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Sep 2, 2017 14:05
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Coolant loss, coolant smell in the vehicle, and stains in the passenger footwell? Naw man, dunno if that's a heater core with those symptoms. 
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Sep 2, 2017 14:20
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Hahahah. Was just looking for a few other opinions before I take a day to pull the dash and steering out to do the core. I've always had an odor come from the vents, but it always seemed to be more concentrated when the defrost was on. Also, that small amount wasn't wet, was more gummy? But it definitely looks like some has come out at one point, yeah. Ugh. Rockauto only seems to have aluminum cores available, payday is this Friday. That means I could pay for it, pay for expedited shipping, weather permitting get everything disassembled and waiting Monday and start putting it back together immediately hopefully in time for work again that next Wednesday night.
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Sep 3, 2017 07:15
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You could just loop the 2 hoses going to the core until you can fix it. Also, try typing the part numbers into Amazon. You'll probably pay a little more, but you may get it quicker, and shipping will be a lot more reasonable (especially if it's a fulfilled by amazon or sold by amazon item).
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Sep 3, 2017 07:21
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That's actually how I usually use Rockauto, based on some goons advice way back when I first joined, either you or Ken I'm pretty sure. I'm basically trying to find one that's copper cored and go from there. OEM is around 60, Omix Ada, which is a Jeep specialty manufacturer has one for an rear end in a top hat puckeringly large price, so..*shrug*..guess Imma Am-Prime it up. So it definitely does look like it's been seeping to you guys too?
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Sep 3, 2017 08:35
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Either that, or someone splashed soda around down there. Those use a control valve for the heater core, don't they? If they do, maybe try this... Crank temp all the way up a couple of minutes before parking, when the engine is good and warm. Park, shut off engine, go do your normal poo poo. Come back out to check on it after an hour or two - is the windshield fogged up, even in one small spot? If so, does that spot feel kinda oily?
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Sep 3, 2017 09:01
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I've definitely been seeing a discoloration on the bottom of the glass, I first noticed it after having my windshield replaced this past November, but I thought it might have been some sort of coating reacting to vape smoke or something. Looks almost like heatwaves or something, doubt it would show up in a pic, but I could try.
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Sep 3, 2017 11:10
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NAPA's heater cores have a good rep. I bought an aluminum one for the JK, not sure if they have copper.
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Sep 3, 2017 16:00
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:
No, they run full coolant flow to the heater core at all times. They just block airflow with the blend doors until you call for heat. Gilead, look at the bright side: now you can fix all the blend / recirc doors and actuators at the same time! 
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Sep 3, 2017 16:18
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gileadexile posted:I've definitely been seeing a discoloration on the bottom of the glass, I first noticed it after having my windshield replaced this past November, but I thought it might have been some sort of coating reacting to vape smoke or something. Note that vape smoke residue and boiling coolant are basically the same thing, chemically. If you vape in your car, then the stuff on your glass is indistinguishable from a leaky heater core.
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Sep 3, 2017 19:28
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Yeah, Napa brand is the same Spectra that keeps popping up on Amazon and Rockauto, so I'm gonna do some figuring on what I can get here fastest and cheapest. It lists for 70.99, and I can get it a bit cheaper from Rockauto with quick shipping or about the same from Amazon with my Prime. After driving my wifes new little commuter the past few days, I want back in my Jeep. Nothing really wrong with it and it's peppier than I'd have thought, but it's so low to the ground everyone elses lights are always in my eyes.
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Sep 4, 2017 01:23
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Heatercore came in on Tuesday. Was a day earlier than Amazon showed, but I held off on tearing the dash apart over the weekend in preparation for it, as the remnants of Irma got us for a good bit of rain. I'm on my work run now, won't be off again until next Wednesday night. Anybody have recommendations on what to do about the AC? It says I'm supposed to vent it, but I'm not evem sure how to do that. It won't be open to the elements for any amount of time more than it takes to remove the HVAC housing, pop the new core in and get everything back in.
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Sep 15, 2017 07:10
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It's a closed system, so even a second of work on it requires venting. That sucks, and if your A/C currently works I'd avoid touching the system by any means possible. Getting it working again is a process, and requires a fair amount of tools. Check out Motronic's A/C thread for more info.
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Sep 15, 2017 12:40
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I think you need to vent the system fairly early on in the job, but I could be wrong. I'd plan on a new dryer either way.
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Sep 15, 2017 14:41
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Yes absolutely vent the system first. Else you'll forget and then get shot with pressurized gas that supercools your hand to Boris in Goldeneye levels
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Sep 15, 2017 16:49
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Also if you end up needing to bend any rubber hoses other than the one crimped onto the dryer, consider replacing it as well. They're cheap on Rockauto and it's much easier to just recharge the drat system once. I ended up having to replace two AC hoses after the fact on my compressor swap because they developed leaks after being moved out of their normal resting places.
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Sep 15, 2017 17:51
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I'm getting to the point of being tired of waiting around for mechanic uncle to do my tires and O2's. I pump the two passenger tires up to 40. I can go most of a workweek on the front, but really, 2 days is the max I'm able to get put of the rear. It conservatively loses about 10lbs an overnight 12hr shift. Doing research online, since my WJ has the Rogue Chrome wheels, I ordered a set of clamp in style one inch tire stems. Also researching online, it says that by using a long handled screwdriver, it should be possible to remove the tire from the rim. If it's possible, I'd probably wind up using a prybar along with a combo of jumping on the tire. Now, would this be enough room to remove the TPMS module and insert the clamp in stem? What about getting it reseated? I have a feeling this weekend is gonna be all Jeep repair, but maybe that can turn out ok..
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Sep 20, 2017 11:18
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Sounds like a good way to damage a tyre, to be honest. Might work with something very high profile or an old-school tubed tyre (no bead retention on the wheel), but your best bet is just get a tyre fitter to use their machine for it. Have you used some soapy water etc to check it is leaking there? Corrosion round the rim is always a likely suspect for phantom air loss.
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Sep 20, 2017 18:50
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