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Made good on my 'washer reservoir through the fuel door' promise. The square part on the bottom is a sump for the pump, which is out of view. Hose on top is just a vent.  In the first pic you can also see the hood release cable I set up. I chopped up the casing of the Miata cable and routed it using some cable clamps that I made out of aluminum plate. Next up: Tearing down the motor and replacing all the gaskets, chain, water pump, etc. Putting on the swap oil pan. Tapping and plugging the holes for the oil cooler that is in the way and was only on 06-07 LE5s. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Oct 10, 2018 |
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Oct 10, 2018 03:17
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Joe Mama posted:Lots more stuff. I'm bouncing around all over the place. That has to be one of the cleanest Ions I've ever seen. I'm driving an 06 Ion 2 coupe, also in black with stick, but the paint is literally falling off of it. Runs good, but the rest of the car is falling apart around the engine and transmission. It replaced a wrecked 06 3 coupe (I really miss the automatic headlights  ).If you wind up using that engine for anything, replace the timing chain tensioner with the latest revision. It screws into the timing cover, and doesn't require removing the timing cover for replacement. You do need to pull the valve cover and smack the guide that rests against the tensioner to release the spring, though. Those are pretty simple and reliable engines so long as you keep oil in them.
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Oct 10, 2018 06:59
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Way ahead of ya. The engine is already out on a stand and I'm going to replace every seal, gasket, chain, water pump, tensioner, guides. As for the car itself it's mostly highway miles, owned by some lady who hadn't driven it in months and I got it for a fair price because no one wanted a manual Saturn. It is drat clean overall, especially for what is essentially a throw away car. If it was any other car I might have felt bad about tearing it apart.
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Oct 11, 2018 04:48
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 Time for a trial fit. Engine has been gone through. Head surfaced and ports lightly ported. Valve cover poorly painted.
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Nov 13, 2018 05:03
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Wait... I see individual coils and VVT solenoids. Uh... moment incoming. Your donor isn't a 2006. It's a 2007, or it's one of the rarest 06's (which means you really have a 2.4, not a 2.2). Either way, you have a bit more power than a typical 06 Ion.If it's the 2.2, it's definitely an 07. The 06's used a 2 coil batch fire setup with an ignition cassette that bolted over the plugs; 07 got VVT added and went to coil on plug. I didn't notice the COP in the donor pic at first, but I definitely see it now, and I see the VVT solenoids (and logo) in the test fit pic. The 2.4 had VVT for 06, but they made very few of them in 06 (less than 2000 I think? and almost all automatic). Since it's a 2007 and/or a 2.4, HP Tuners will talk to the PCM. If it was a 2006 2.2, HP Tuners would point and laugh (it doesn't talk to 05-06 2.2 PCMs - EFI Live does though). AFAIK the only differences between 06 and 07 was the PCM and engine electronics (specifically, ignition system, crank reluctor wheel, PCM, and engine harness), everything else about your donor should be identical to an 06. (also if you still have the donor or you're parting it out.. I could use those front corner lights  mine are sunburned to hell. headlight pins would be spiffy too, if you still have any of that stuff)So weird seeing that engine in a F/R setup (even though I know they did use that family in the Solstice + Sky). I can barely see the tensioner on mine, and I'm hosed if I ever need to pull the timing cover. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Nov 13, 2018 |
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Nov 13, 2018 08:09
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Yep. LE5 2.4 with the desirable (for this application) E67 PCM. It was an '06. I don't know what the build date was though. All I do know is that it was a 3 trim level with no options above "rental car" except the sunroof and bigger engine. Top it off with a manual trans and it's a big rolling case of WTF. I've never seen this combo before or since. The big advantage of the '06-'07 LE5 is the bigger, unobtanium intake manifold. The downside is the unnecessary oil cooler you have to delete and plug the holes. I have an ad up for the carcass in the sfbay CL. I'd be happy to ship parts and do paypal.
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Nov 14, 2018 05:17
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Goddamn, that really was a unicorn (also the build month/year should be on the sticker on the door or door jamb, guessing it was a very late 06). But no options above rental car is the norm on the 3 - you get power options and auto lights, and, well, that's it. The 3 included the higher level stereo (could play MP3 CDs, optional XM support, had a dot matrix display), automatic headlights, fog lights, power windows, power locks, power mirrors, keyless entry, 5 or 6 way adjustable driver's seat, nicer upholstery, auto dimming mirror with compass and outside temp, white face gauge cluster, power trunk release, and 16" alloys. It could be optioned with automatic, sunroof, traction control, ABS, and leather - AFAIK those were the only options available (my 3 had none of those except for the sunroof). For comparison, the 2 had a different stereo (same speakers, still has a CD player and aux input, but sounds terrible - still has OnStar and an aux input though), black face gauges, and could be optioned with PW/PL/PM, sunroof, and keyless (normally had manual everything). My 2 somehow has all of this plus the trunk release; I've never seen a 2 with either a sunroof or keyless entry before this. I swapped over the nice autodimming compass/outside temp mirror and much more comfortable front seats from my 3 when I got this one (the wiring for the outside temp sensor was there, so I just had to plug in the sensor and figure out where to mount it, as the original mounting location didn't exist on the 2). The 2 came with 15" steelies w/hubcaps, and the overall diameter of the wheel/tire combo is significant enough that my 2 feels a shitload faster than the 3 did (the PCM was programmed to correct the speedo+odometer if the car had 16's, but the final drive was the same). I have a feeling mine was a dealer demo; it wasn't registered until it had over 2000 miles, and it popped a head gasket around 30k. Didn't realize the LE5 had an oil cooler. Add the driver's side power window switch to my list, if you're up for it. Don't have to remove the door panel, just unscrew the plastic insert in the driver's door armrest and pull it out carefully (unplug the switches, then 2 clips holding that switch in). Depending on shipping, I might also be interested in the headlamps, but I suspect those would be more of a pain to ship than it's worth (mine are yellowed to hell, but a new aftermarket set is $100 shipped). If the shift boot, parking brake boot, and shift knob are decent, I may also take those.
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Nov 14, 2018 09:04
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Everything except the boots and shift knob are in great shape. The chrome peeled off the knob and the boots are disintegrating. You are probably correct about the headlights.
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Nov 15, 2018 06:04
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Yeah, those shift knobs are... pretty crappy. Mine still has a little chrome left (which likes to slice my hand occasionally when it starts peeling again). Ironically this is the shift knob from my old Ion (which had 203k) - got this one with 138k and the knob was in far worse shape. If you're up for it, lemme know what you'd want for the power window switch and headlight pins, also corner lights if you don't mind pulling them (7mm screw holds them in, have to remove the headlamps first - they fall out when you yank the pins). Though I understand if you want to try and sell it as complete as possible.
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Nov 15, 2018 14:26
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I'd forgotten the window switches actually had markings  Appreciate the parts man. I may hit you up for a few others in a couple of weeks if you still have the car.
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Dec 3, 2018 22:04
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Once again, lots of progress in various areas, namely the exhaust and AC.  Exhaust was built using a 2.5" kit with various bends and straight pieces. Add a couple flanges, flex pipe, chrome tips, and a muffler meant for an early 90's Camaro/Firebird. Fuel and brake line had to be run up inside the tunnel and out the top to make room for the downpipe. I'm curious to find out how it's gonna sound. I may add a small muffler or resonator in the middle later, who knows.  Grafted in the Ion's body vent.  AC is plumbed. Tight fit here but it will work. Lower radiator hose had to be run outside the subframe unfortunately but I welded on some pieces of pipe cut in half to act as a guide and to clamp the hose to. I'll probably make a shield for this at some point. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jan 5, 2019 |
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Jan 5, 2019 05:54
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Lookin great, man
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Jan 5, 2019 06:13
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Just gotta keep putting drops in the bucket. Right now I'm trying to graft the Ion's power window motors onto the VW regulators because the window crank goes into the side of the Miata dash. I already moved the interior door handles back 2-3" for the same reason.
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Jan 5, 2019 17:39
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Speaking of window regulators... Before.  After grafting on the Ion's motor and cut up pieces of the Ion's regulator. This whole shebang will go inside the door with no fab or cutting of the door. Add the helper spring and some black paint and it's good to go.
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Jan 10, 2019 04:25
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Nicely done! If the motor ever goes, I'm pretty sure the same (or a very similar) motor was used on every Delta-body car (so G5, Cobalt, Ion, HHR - the HHR is a ? since it's cable-driven, the rest are definites), and several Toyotas? (Denso is the OEM for the motor for sure on Toyota, and I'm 95% sure they're the OEM for the Ion). Plugs are a little different on the Toyota version, from what I remember when I swapped a regulator+motor on mom's Avalon. The HHR and likely all (90s+) Toyota versions are cable-driven, FWIW, hence the "?", but the motor is probably similar or identical. They're pretty strong for such a small motor. And the GM versions are much cheaper on eBay vs the Toyota version. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Jan 10, 2019 |
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Jan 10, 2019 08:14
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Yea that looks a lot like the motor I just put in my GM truck too. I think I paid 30 bucks or something so that's worth a look too for cheap replacements.
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Jan 11, 2019 16:04
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Lots of head scratching, jerking off, crying, wiring, hoses, brackets, etc later... This is at about 80-90%. Everything in the engine bay has plumbing/wiring routed and almost finished. Now I'll start enclosing the engine compartment and bracing the VW compartment opening. For the inside portion of the engine harness a loose rat's nest of wire has been created using some of the Ion's connectors so it can be run through a 1.5" hole in the firewall near where the cruise cable used to come through, using a grommet from the Ion that originally fed wire to the wiper. I ended up adding an in-hose radiator cap so that it would be much higher up and level with the port on the head, the cap on the radiator is at a much higher pressure rating so it shouldn't pop open. I don't like the heater hoses but there aren't many options and I'll be putting one of those power flush fittings in the upper hose to bleed air out and to, well, flush the coolant. Oil/air separator is definitely needed as the original crankcase suction port in the intake manifold is blocked per the swap instructions, so the intake tract will be eating the crankcase air. The eBay coolant reservoir is one of the nicest looking things in here. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Mar 13, 2019 |
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Mar 13, 2019 04:52
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https://youtu.be/z-b4R4G9w-A IT LIVES!
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Apr 12, 2019 20:32
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you tease!
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Apr 12, 2019 20:38
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Lol. I changed pants because the ones I was wearing show half of my rear end. Everything except the stereo works! It needs to have the air filter boxed off to reduce intake noise and keep hot air away. It's going to need a resonator or muffler added in the midpipe. Some tuning needs to be done to change some settings and to fine tune the curves. It needs some wiring issues handled and it needs a new stereo head unit. I decided to go with Xida GS coil-overs and haven't ordered them yet. And then of course, the body work.... Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Apr 12, 2019 |
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Apr 12, 2019 20:45
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hell yeah
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Apr 13, 2019 04:20
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So weird seeing one of these engines in a RWD setup. What'd you do with the "front" motor mount that normally goes to the timing cover/strut tower ? Is it just a bracket? And I'm guessing the block had an easy way to be mounted for a RWD setup? I know some of these wound up in the Solstice/Sky, but AFAIK that's the only RWD application GM used them for (at least in the US). And I've never seen under the hood of one. Glad to see it running!
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Apr 13, 2019 06:06
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Yeah, similar to solstice/sky I guess. It just gets unbolted and tossed.
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Apr 14, 2019 01:46
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Welp, the second and final shakedown session was mostly a success. I added a 12" Flowmaster HP-2 resonator/muffler and it works mother loving perfectly, a little quieter and every last bit of fart pipe BRAAAPPP is gone. If you are in need of a resonator or want to do a not-so-obnoxious straight pipe exhaust I cannot recommend these enough. Oh, and I forgot to record it, but I'll be filming the whole car nose to rear end when it's done anyways. Bad news is that the outer most aluminum plug that I had to put in the back of the oil filter housing is leaking. I didn't get the threads tapped perfectly straight so that is probably why, I'll just have to redo it one size bigger. Time to start tearing this bitch down, finish some fab work, and start on the body.
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Apr 18, 2019 04:29
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 Custom made door panels. I used 1/8" hardboard, $9 for a 4x8 sheet from Lowe's. If I had to do it again I'd use ABS plastic or something but it worked out well. The door wiring boot was pilfered from the Ion. I'll have made one panel for each door, the area beneath the quarter windows, and the trunk to separate the fuel tank area from the main trunk. I have some fake leather material that was going to be used to cover a chair years ago that I'll use on the interior panels. I may also get seat covers as well.
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Apr 28, 2019 03:28
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 Project Volkzda, now with 100% more Pleather! There are panels for each front door, two for what used to be the rear passenger elbow areas, two for the gaps between the a-post and dash, one for the gap between the windshield and top of the dash, and one to block the fuel tank area from the trunk. All done. I got my Xida GS coil-overs in so I can start figuring out where my arches are going to go, which I don't have yet.
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May 22, 2019 03:42
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just chiming in to say: this thread is great, this build is great and keep up the good work!
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May 22, 2019 08:15
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  On the bump stops of the Xida GS. Outer fenders cut. Inner rear fender wells had to be pushed up an inch. Looks pretty mean all slammed but it'll be riding about .5-1" lower than a stock NB Miata, so not really low. Front wheels look tucked right now but it's at it's maximum negative camber in this pic, at ride height they stick out a bit. I ordered some 1.2" and 2" classic style flares from Clinched as those seemed like they would fit the best and are good quality. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Jun 8, 2019 |
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Jun 8, 2019 01:21
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Man that looks freakin great. The wheels fit the wells so perfectly, nice job. The car is gonna be such a great example of form and function. Fastbacks are extremely my poo poo
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Jun 8, 2019 02:14
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Much thanks to everyone who's following this! The more I look at it all slammed the more I wish I hadn't switched from the Vmaxx I had to the Xida GS. But then I remember how crappy the Vmaxx rode and that this thing is going to be a daily driver as #1 priority.
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Jun 8, 2019 04:47
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Oh yeah, since I'm here, I wanted to see what you all think about what color it should be painted (single stage, no metallic or pearl). I've decided not to paint it gray or black. Right now I'm actually leaning towards Hugger Orange.
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Jun 8, 2019 05:04
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Why no pearl or metallic? British racing green would look pretty sharp on there I think.
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Jun 8, 2019 05:07
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Because I'm a total amateur painter and I WILL tiger stripe and clump poo poo up. A solid color single stage paint is more period correct anyway I guess. BRG is actually my #2 choice right now! That was my first thought for an alternative color.
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Jun 8, 2019 05:13
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Either BRG or a rich slightly-orangey yellow
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Jun 8, 2019 05:58
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Type 3s look best in Marina Blue or Savannah Beige, in my opinion.
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Jun 8, 2019 08:43
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I hadn't considered a yellow, I'll look into it.Blacknose posted:Type 3s look best in Marina Blue or Savannah Beige, in my opinion. No offense but I'd probably have those 2 near the bottom of the list with gold and brown. Beige, no way, and I've never been a fan of baby blue anything.
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Jun 8, 2019 16:30
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Colours are really subjective to be fair. I'm sure it'll look amazing in whatever colour you go for.
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Jun 8, 2019 16:48
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Yeah I'm just seeing what other people think. I've been dead set on gray or nothing forever, not just with this car, so I'm having a hard time picturing the full look and aesthetic.
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Jun 8, 2019 21:31
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Can someone Photoshop this in racing green please? I also keep seeing the shadow/stripe on the hood and fenders as a painted stripe
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Jun 8, 2019 21:48
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I had a dark green squareback and it wore it well in my opinion. It'll look pretty great in grey though. e; 
Blacknose fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Jun 8, 2019 |
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Jun 8, 2019 23:34
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