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Welp that sure is a bike. Is it a GPX? GPZ? Other? That blue stuff is what you get when the bike is parked for years without draining the carbs, it's petrol's final form! Your difficulty in starting is probably because your pilot screws and idle are all set wonky as gently caress. Try putting the pilots to 1.5-2 turns out and going from there. It's already idling ludicrously high, presumably because you or others have cranked the idle up to compensate. If you ran it for half an hour with nothing in the cooling system the engine is finished, sorry 
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May 27, 2018 06:23
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:20 |
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Sport demons are the best tyre for that sort of bike by a country mile.
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May 27, 2018 20:16
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Ex250 shock bolts in and has a preload adjuster, makes a huge difference to the handling.
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May 29, 2018 01:01
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mewse posted:I don't think it's the same for 86-87 vs 88-07 is it? Well, an ex250 shock bolts into a gpz, a gpx, a zzr AND an American market 'pregen'. It's exceedingly unlikely yours has some bizarro shock, but it's like a fifteen minute job to take it out and measure the relevant dimensions.
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May 29, 2018 06:02
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Wtf double post.
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May 29, 2018 06:02
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builds character posted:One serious note here: anytime someone who is good at wrenching tells you a thing will take X time, it will take you at least 4X. Then you’ll get more comfortable and it will only take 2x. Then you’ll work your way down to telling other people “it’s a one beer job.” And they’ll be the ones taking an entire Sunday to change an air filter. I have to remind myself of this every time my missus volunteers to do something on her bike.
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May 29, 2018 20:33
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Adding to that, take the spark plugs out. Makes it a lot easier to get the engine in the right spot.
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Jun 18, 2018 23:55
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If your battery is good that sounds like a hosed relay, although sometimes taking the bike for a ride seems to give them more encouragement than just trying it sitting still and they sort of 'wake up' and start working.
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Jun 21, 2018 21:03
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It means you're idling pretty lean, opening the throttle adds more air, stalls airflow in the carbs and kills the engine. Quite likely you have a clogged pilot jet or two, or your pilot screw settings are out of whack. Your earlier post saying the idle sticks really high supports this, quite often the bike won't idle so the PO just turns the idle screw in until it does.
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Jul 17, 2018 01:47
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mewse posted:There are main jets, pilot jets, and idle mix screws right? Or are the idle mix screws also pilot jet screws? Maybe I should just replace the jets, there are new idle mix screws from the carb kits - I gave them 2.5 turns backed out because that's apparently factory. Pilot jets have tiny holes that clog super easily and make the bike run lean/not run at all at or near idle unless the idle is so far open that the needle is doing the job instead (see the above diagram). Main jet is where the petrol comes out for the majority of the rev range and is governed by the needle exposing more/less of the hole in the middle. At WOT your main jet is going it alone and it all works like a platonic ideal of a carb with one great big ventury sucking petrol straight out of one great big hole in the middle. Pilot screws control how rich/lean the carb is at or near idle, 2.5 out is within the realm of normality, if it's still no good with new pilots you might have a vacuum leak somewhere or you have some other reason it's running lean. Clean the carbs surgically, preferably with the aid of compressed air, make sure your vacuum diaphragms aren't torn, floats still floating and set to the right height.
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Jul 17, 2018 06:47
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Sounds good, but something's funky. This is an A1 protip, have boiled would again. IMO it's on a par with a manual parts washer running expensive fluid. And you can do it anywhere pretty much. Then just be super ultra sure they're dry before putting poo poo back together 
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Jul 19, 2018 04:55
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Wait mewse are you thinking this thing should run without the choke when it's cold? Cause that's is definitely not the case.
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Jul 19, 2018 20:56
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Stumble just coming off idle is gonna be your pilot screw settings unless the carb balance is really badly out of whack.
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Jul 20, 2018 02:55
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mewse posted:Would it be rich or lean (like do i need to tighten or loosen) Could be either, usually they stumble because they're lean (so loosen to compensate), but they can also sort of bog and not want to rev up cleanly if it's too rich (so tighten to compensate). My quick check method is to just give the throttle a decent blip - if the revs come down really slowly or hang at a certain rpm, it's too lean. If the revs come down normal but it stalls or the idle chugs for a while before slowly increasing, it's too rich. Keep in mind this method works even if you're only a little bit either side of perfect, you just have to listen carefully for the drop/hang while watching the tacho (if it's a decent one anyway). My deaf ears are good for about 200rpm accuracy which is more good enough on most japanese four strokes.
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Jul 20, 2018 08:43
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I have a motion pro right angle screwdriver designed for the purpose. The first time I used it, on a tidy clean Honda, the cable linking the handle to the bit head broke inside. Undeterred, I fixed it and tried it use it again, this time on a Harley, and the plastic handle spun on the haft. So now I mostly use a bit by itself and get burned. Every bike with pilot screws easily accessible with a normal screwdriver makes the world a better place.
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Jul 21, 2018 06:06
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I'll bet it's shock oil.
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Aug 9, 2018 03:45
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Pink coolant is for Toyotas and Volkswagens not bikes.
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Aug 9, 2018 04:44
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That looks great!
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Sep 12, 2018 19:09
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You really don't, just push down on it with an extension or something and flick the clip out. The springs are a lot softer than you think, once you break through the rust seal they come down pretty easy.
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Oct 29, 2018 02:51
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You can always do slip-ons, sometimes you just need an angle grinder to do it.
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Mar 1, 2019 20:46
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Wait you got braided lines off of AliExpress and you're worried about the legality?
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Mar 26, 2019 19:32
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I've seen lovely/diy braided lines fail in some exciting ways. Not recommended.
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Mar 27, 2019 19:38
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Yeah just return those and get some Galfers or similar. Don’t bargain shop for dentistry or brakes. Jim Silly-Balls posted:Don’t buy knockoffs for anything that is unsprung weight, basically On Royal Enfields and duke 640's, your dentistry IS unsprung weight.
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Mar 29, 2019 09:14
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mewse posted:Pretty warm today (8c) so spent some time with the bike. Cable ties or safety wire work well in a pinch for the carb boots, yes this makes a difference. What sort of needle setting and pilot screw settings are you running? Air filter oiled foam or dry paper?
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Apr 7, 2019 12:00
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Slide Hammer posted:This might be overkill, but if the McMaster Carr bolts you ordered are steel, you might want to coat them in a thin film of copper antiseize before mounting them, because of the reaction between steel and the aluminum engine. I have heard that this reaction between the two metals will bind the bolt threads to the aluminum over time, and the antiseize keeps this from happening. (I read about this happening to boats/boat engines, where people regularly opt to use stainless steel fasteners) I'm gonna step in here and say don't do this. Anti seize helpful for stopping steel fasteners rusting together, don't use it on alloy stuff as it tends to just nuke the thread the first time you take the bolt out. A little bit of gear oil or grease on the threads is a lot less damaging. mewse posted:I might do this, I'm just on the fence whether I care, I got a really nice finish on like 80% of the fairing. Fan thermo switch and dash temp sender are different things. Figure out which of the two is which, test your sender resistance at room temperature and then in a cup of hot water - the reading should change in step with temperature. Have you got a wiring diagram? A GPX or similar should have the same wiring setup. You could also try supplying the gauge 12V fed through a resistor.
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Apr 25, 2019 20:21
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Right so just see if you've got 12v running to it and if it's got some sort of resistance measuring continuity through the sender to the engine or earth strap.
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Apr 26, 2019 08:54
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That looks great! Never realised they had such miserable brakes though, I imagine doing a front end swap from a later model would take care of that. That 1970's single piston looks useless.
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May 1, 2019 03:38
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Yeah my go-to for those is kerosene, melts the poo poo right out of there then you just blow it out with compressed air. Petrol also works well but not recommended if it's got any glue seams.
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May 16, 2019 20:07
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Renaissance Robot posted:I gather diesel is sufficiently equivalent to kerosene for this purpose? Lots of other forums posts waffling about the fine differences in terms of weight and energy density and hydrocarbon composition but I've had a hard time finding anyone just saying "yes diesel will dissolve the poo poo out of engine oil just as good as kerosene". I've never tried diesel but my past experiences with it are that it turns everything into a horrible slimy mess, so I dunno. mewse posted:It's just a slab of foam with no seams so I might bathe it in gasoline Never tried it, I don't know if they would play nice with the foam though.
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May 16, 2019 23:50
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Do you have the earth and power/high light wires around the right way? Use a multimeter to verify you have power and earth coming out of the appropriate bulb pins for a start. My guess would be you've gotten a couple of terminals on the connector in the wrong order. Sometimes the wires don't exactly match, due to whatever arcane production related reason, and you have to manually make sure everything lines up by verifying what wires do what on your switch. Or the bulb is blown.
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Jul 23, 2019 03:44
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mewse posted:I might be the biggest noob ever. The headlight doesn’t work unless the bike is running 
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Jul 28, 2019 20:01
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The future is here!!! Good stuff.
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Aug 3, 2019 09:43
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I know 70's bikes seem like they'll be just like your ninja only cruder and older, but they aren't. They are terrible pieces of poo poo where even the absolute best ones are loaded with factory faults and unfixable designs, and Hondas have the benefit of having zero parts availability and non-standard seals all over the place. 80's or newer and you can't go wrong.
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Sep 17, 2019 01:15
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mewse posted:I went for a very short ride yesterday and it appears my speedometer isn't working. I think I might be missing a part in the front wheel hub that's supposed to run the sensor. Parts diagram shows a 23 tooth cog that I don't recall seeing. It fell out and rolled under a bench when you took the front wheel off.
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Sep 17, 2019 19:46
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Win some, lose some, this is bikes and now you have more knowledge for the next one, as well as a sober appreciation of what's out there. If it makes you feel any better, I've had more than one person in your situation double down and pay me to assess fixing, or worse, actually fix their lost cause. I remember one guy in particular with a stolen and recovered learner bike who ended up paying more to repair his bike (to a loving lovely standard) than a pristine example would've cost. And at some point every bike can be a lost cause, be it a ninjette or an h2. Unless it's literally Marc Marquez' championship Honda or whatever, every bike can reach a point where the effort of repair exceeds sanity and parting it out is the only humane option.
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Oct 7, 2019 03:15
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Lol there's no cure for that, if anything it gets worse with time.
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Oct 7, 2019 18:08
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Sagebrush posted:(they look like good cans!) Granddad spotted, do you also have like a hundred glass jars with the lids screwed to the ceiling?
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Oct 21, 2019 04:40
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mewse posted:Worked on the bike a little bit yesterday. Tried installing a beeping flasher relay from aliexpress and it was awful. The beep was insanely loud and it would miss like 2-3 light cycles before starting to flash the indicators. 
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Oct 28, 2019 07:30
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Sagebrush posted:I know exactly the mechanism you're talking about and it's a really cool piece of electromechanical technology. The speedometer cable drives a spinning magnet that sits inside, but does not touch, the brass cup that's connected to the speedometer needle. The cup rotates on a pivot and is spring-loaded to return the needle to zero. When the magnet spins, it induces an eddy current in the conductive brass cup, and that induced current creates a magnetic field that allows the magnet to drag the cup forwards in the direction of rotation against the spring. The faster the magnet spins, the stronger the induced current, and the further the cup can rotate before it's stopped by spring tension. By carefully tuning the spring you can calibrate the system so that a given rotation speed is translated to an angular position of the needle. Conceptually it's very similar to the spinning rotor on an electric meter, or that physics demo where you drop a magnet down a copper pipe and it hovers its way to the ground. Isn't this how basically every cable speedo bike newer than the Jurassic works? I've only opened a couple but they all had that non-contact system.
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May 14, 2020 03:53
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:20 |
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That's basically our rules, except we also have a capacity and hp:weight limit. It's a pretty normal sane thing to do, it only seems harsh to you because you have a retarded red white and blue neighbor insisting a 600 is too small to learn on. They relaxed the rules a few years ago, used to be a hard limit of 250cc and you weren't allowed on the motorway at all!
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May 17, 2020 20:53
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